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What Is a Weed, Anyway?

Since the beginning of plant cultivation, growers have fought an endless battle against the peskiest of plants: weeds. In simple terms, any plant growing where it is not wanted is considered a weed. Because all weeds are plants, one way to look at it is that a plant is determined to be a weed when its negative qualities outweigh the positive ones. The main takeaway is that weeds are highly disliked. They are notorious for getting in the way of man’s plans. Three main factors help to determine the negative attributes of a weed:

Location: Weeds grow in areas where they are not intended — a pristine rose garden, for example.
Appearance: Weeds tend to be physically unattractive and therefore stand out and disrupt the intended look of a plot — such as clusters in a lawn.
Hazard: They are invasive growers and typically interact adversely with cultivated plants and structures — like suffocating crops in a field.

Weeds have a bad reputation because they pop up where they are not wanted. They are opportunistic plants that grow wherever there is space. Gardeners fight the weeds that creep into their manicured gardens, offsetting their clean, organized design. Landscapers bemoan the clusters of crabgrass that sabotage a pebbled walkway’s manicured look. Farmers struggle during harvest to separate the weeds that grow alongside their crops. In addition, they can take root in the cracks of sidewalks or even buildings, making them difficult to remove at the root, allowing them to regrow again and again. Vigorous in nature, weeds can grow in varying soil types and under unfavorable weather conditions. They are resilient plants that creep up nearly anywhere their multitude of seeds may land.

Weeds also serve as hosts for diseases that affect crops and act as shelters for animals and insects that harm plants. In agriculture, weeds stubbornly develop alongside crops, making it difficult to separate them from harvested goods. Invasive weed species cause detrimental harm to ecosystems worldwide. In addition, some weeds can ruin entire structures by causing corrosion or upsetting the foundation.

Because they are highly adaptable, weeds are tough to control. In most cases, the best way to control weeds is to prevent them from developing. Farmers around the globe constantly battle with weeds. They are highly adaptable and robust plants and adapt to agricultural methods, making some weeds highly resistant to herbicides.

However, not all weeds are bad. For example, some flowering weeds are purposefully planted in gardens worldwide because of their wild, colorful aesthetic. Other weeds are easily controlled in pots and make excellent indoor plants. As we will discuss in Chapter 2, some weeds have the potential to aid soil health, feed livestock, and improve ecosystems. When grown with intention and kept under control, weeds showcase numerous benefits.

An Introduction to Weeds

Weeds make up approximately 3% of the world’s plants. No matter what plot of land you cultivate, you are sure to come across them. Most people think of weeds only as unsightly plants that make a garden look disheveled. However, as you will soon learn, there is a lot more to these pesky plants.

This lesson delves into the broad scope of weedy plants by studying their positive and negative roles in gardens, agriculture, and the wild. We will cover preventative and control methods that are easy to implement for any garden. You will deepen your understanding of weeds by learning what they are, how they grow, and their risks and benefits.

Weeds have a notoriously negative reputation. But, as you’ll soon discover, not all weeds are the enemy. On the contrary, some weeds benefit ecosystems, livestock, and even the garden. In fact, many people purposefully plant weeds in their homes and gardens because of their natural beauty and ability to enhance a garden’s health.

Government officials classify some weeds as noxious and invasive. Therefore, it is important to know and distinguish the weeds in your garden and understand their effect on the ecosystem. Most noxious and invasive weeds have the ability to propagate very quickly and, when allowed to grow uncontrolled, can cause irrevocable damage.

An unruly garden overrun by weeds is any homeowner’s worst nightmare. Therefore arming yourself with the knowledge and tools necessary to control and eradicate weeds is the first step to having the garden of your dreams. Following the steps in this lesson, you will create a successful weed management plan that works wonders for your garden.

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Water in a Better Way

Test before Watering

Before watering, please poke a pencil two inches or three down into the soil, then pull it out. If the pencil is still dry, then it means the soil is dry now, and it’s better to water. Otherwise, you can try this again the next day. You can also perform this test with your finger.

A Few Signs Your Plant Needs More Water

When a plant needs water, its leaves may c, change color, or feel brittle to the touch.

In those over-watering cases, the leaves will likely turn brown or yellow or have blisters.

Moreover, if you see mushy stems, mold in soil or the whole wilting plant, it means the plant is badly over-watered

How to Water Your Plant:

Bottom Watering

If you grow _COMMON NAME_ in pots, it’s an effective method to let the roots of your plants get water and grow stronger:

Place your potted plant in a plant saucer/container, and fill the saucer with water.
Keep filling the saucer/container until the water stops getting absorbed into the soil through drainage holes.
Dispose of any excess water from the saucer or move the potted plant out of the container to avoid excess moisture and root rot.

This method is also suitable for when the soil is compacted due to dryness, or when watering from above cannot make the soil fully absorb moisture.

Watering from the top

The simplest and the best way to water most plants:

Pour water near the roots, as they are what absorb the water.
Avoid pouring water on leaves and stems, because the extra moisture will make them more susceptible to diseases.
Continue pouring until the water runs out through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.
If you have a saucer under the flowerpot, make sure you dispose of any collected water afterward to avoid excess moisture and root rot.

As for potted plants, the amount of water to use should be between ¼ and ⅓ of the pot’s volume.

Some Expert Tips for Watering Plants

Choose the Right Kind of Water

The water you use to water your plants should be cool or at room temperature. Water that is too hot may do more harm to your plants than good.

Water Needs Change with the Seasons

During summer, when the weather is the hottest, you will likely need to water your plants more than usual. The hot temperatures can cause your soil to dry out more quickly, meaning your plant’s roots won’t have access to the moisture they need. The opposite is true in winter. During winter, most plants are in a dormant state and won’t require water as they are not actively growing.

Watering in the Morning is Usually Best

The time of day can affect your watering schedule. In many instances, watering in the morning is best. Watering in the morning ensures your plants will have time to soak up the moisture they need. Watering in the morning also gives the plant’s leaves a chance to dry out throughout the day rather than accumulate excessive moisture that can cause disease. Watering during midday, especially in summer, is not always a wise idea as the strong sun can cause the water to evaporate before your plants can use it.

Overwatering is a Serious Concern

Not giving your plants water will usually cause them to die but giving too much water is a serious problem too. Overwatering can lead to complications such as root rot and may even kill your plants. Study the water preferences of the species you grow to get the watering volume just right.

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Water in a Better Way

Test before Watering

One way to test if your plant’s soil has become too dry is to use your finger. All you need to do is poke your finger an inch or two down into the soil, then pull it out and see if it is still dry. If so, there is a good chance that you should give your plant more water. You can also perform this test with a pencil using the same method.

A Few Signs Your Plant Needs More Water

When a plant needs water, its leaves may c, change color, or feel brittle to the touch.

In those over-watering cases, the leaves will likely turn brown or yellow or have blisters.

Moreover, if you see mushy stems, mold in soil or the whole wilting plant, it means the plant is badly over-watered

How to Water Your Plant:

Bottom Watering

If you grow _COMMON NAME_ in pots, it’s an effective method to let the roots of your plants get water and grow stronger:

Place your potted plant in a plant saucer/container, and fill the saucer with water.
Keep filling the saucer/container until the water stops getting absorbed into the soil through drainage holes.
Dispose of any excess water from the saucer or move the potted plant out of the container to avoid excess moisture and root rot.

This method is also suitable for when the soil is compacted due to dryness, or when watering from above cannot make the soil fully absorb moisture.

Watering from the top

The simplest and the best way to water most plants:

Pour water near the roots, as they are what absorb the water.
Avoid pouring water on leaves and stems, because the extra moisture will make them more susceptible to diseases.
Continue pouring until the water runs out through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.
If you have a saucer under the flowerpot, make sure you dispose of any collected water afterward to avoid excess moisture and root rot.

As for potted plants, the amount of water to use should be between ¼ and ⅓ of the pot’s volume.

Some Expert Tips for Watering Plants

Choose the Right Kind of Water

The water you use to water your plants should be cool or at room temperature. Water that is too hot may do more harm to your plants than good.

Water Needs Change with the Seasons

Watering in the Morning is Usually Best

Overwatering is a Serious Concern

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Water in a Better Way

Test before Watering

It’ll be good to feel the soil to see if it really needs water. Touch the surface of the soil with your fingers, if it feels dry then it’s the proper time to water it. However, if it feels wet, watering is not necessary today, and please give it a test the next day.

A Few Signs Your Plant Needs More Water

When a plant needs water, its leaves may c, change color, or feel brittle to the touch.

In those over-watering cases, the leaves will likely turn brown or yellow or have blisters.

Moreover, if you see mushy stems, mold in soil or the whole wilting plant, it means the plant is badly over-watered

How to Water Your Plant:

Bottom Watering

If you grow _COMMON_NAME_ in pots, it’s an effective method to let the roots of your plants get water and grow stronger:

Place your potted plant in a plant saucer/container, and fill the saucer with water.
Keep filling the saucer/container until the water stops getting absorbed into the soil through drainage holes.
Dispose of any excess water from the saucer or move the potted plant out of the container to avoid excess moisture and root rot.

This method is also suitable for when the soil is compacted due to dryness, or when watering from above cannot make the soil fully absorb moisture.

Watering from the top

The simplest and the best way to water most plants:

Pour water near the roots, as they are what absorb the water.
Avoid pouring water on leaves and stems, because the extra moisture will make them more susceptible to diseases.
Continue pouring until the water runs out through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.
If you have a saucer under the flowerpot, make sure you dispose of any collected water afterward to avoid excess moisture and root rot.

As for potted plants, the amount of water to use should be between ¼ and ⅓ of the pot’s volume.

Some Expert Tips for Watering Plants

Choose the Right Kind of Water

The water you use to water your plants should be cool or at room temperature. Water that is too hot may do more harm to your plants than good.

Water Needs Change with the Seasons

Watering in the Morning is Usually Best

Overwatering is a Serious Concern

How to Find the Best Plants to Buy

When you head to the greenhouse or the lawn and garden center at your favorite big-box store, choosing the best plants you can get for your money is essential. Healthy plants will transplant better, experience less transplant shock, and establish themselves quickly.

While it’s tempting to buy plants that are discounted or on sale because they look sickly, avoid them. Chances are you’ll be introducing insect pests or diseases into your flower bed.

Physical Characteristics to Look For

When buying flowers, the goal is to purchase healthy-looking plants that were well taken care of when they were first started. A healthy, strong young plant has greater chances of growing to be a healthy, strong mature plant.

As you look over rows and rows of plants, make sure to pick out plants showing the following characteristics.

Leaves are uniform in color, whether they are green, variegated, or whatever color the plant’s foliage is naturally.
Flower buds should be plump and healthy, not brown or rotted.
Leaves should be pliable yet firm.
Leaf size should be similar — especially leaves toward the bottom of the plant — and comparable to neighboring plants.
Branches should be well spaced and evenly distributed around the plant.
Grab the base of the plant and try to move it back and forth in the potting soil. You want it to be well-rooted and holding firm, and it shouldn’t pull out of the soil easily.
Roots are firm and either white or light tan.

Physical Characteristics to Avoid

If the flowering plants show any of these characteristics, keep looking for healthier plants. You should not buy them.

Wilted or off-color foliage, especially overall yellowing of the leaves or chlorosis between the leaf veins.
Dry, crispy leaf margins.
Visible insect pests, especially aphids, spider mites, scale, etc.
Symptoms of disease.
Tall, spindly plants that are pale in color. These symptoms are classic signs of etiolation when the plant isn’t getting enough sunlight.
Leaves that have mushy spots.
Flowers that look way too big for their container. These plants are likely root-bound.
Offensive odor or mushy roots.
Sunscald on the leaves.
Mechanical injury to the plant’s stem. Open wounds invite insect pests and fungi into the shrub’s vascular system.
Roots growing out of the bottom of the container.
Weeds growing in the container.

Seeds or Starts? Which Route is Best, and Why?

Like the choice when growing vegetables, deciding to start your flowers from seeds or purchase young plants from the greenhouse depends on your preference. There are some advantages and disadvantages to both choices.

Advantages of Starting Flowers from Seed

Seeds are considerably cheaper to purchase than young plants. A pack of 100 or so seeds costs $2-$3, while a four-pack of annuals from the nursery may run the same price. Perennial plants can cost anywhere from a couple of dollars to $30.
There are many more seed varieties to choose from, especially if you shop online.
Many people find growing plants from seed to bloom immensely satisfying. If you have children in the house, it’s a fantastic learning experience.
Some plants do better when directly sown in the ground, typically those with long taproots.
You can swap extra seeds with friends or neighbors and increase your plant collection.

Best Flowers to Start from Seed Indoors

Marigolds

Zinnia

Cosmos

Nasturtiums

Pansies

Petunias

Snapdragons

Alyssum

Lobelia

Best Flowers to Direct Sow from Seed Outdoors

Columbine

Poppy

Sweet pea

Coneflower

Lupine

Sunflowers

Disadvantages of Starting Flowers from Seed

If you’re starting seeds indoors, you’ll need to spend extra money on supplies like containers, growing medium, and possibly grow lights.
Starting your seedlings indoors takes time. Many annual flowers need to be started six to eight weeks before they can be hardened off and moved outside to flower beds.
Not all flower seeds can be direct-sown into the garden.
Starting seeds indoors takes a great deal of space depending on how many you are starting, especially as the plants grow.
Indoor seedlings often require daily care, or at least every other day, to make sure seedlings are watered and thriving.

Advantages of Buying Transplants or Seedlings

Young plants provide instant color in your flower beds, giving you immediate satisfaction.
You save yourself the time and effort of starting seeds, especially if plants are hard to germinate or you need a lot of them.
These plants are usually closer to maturity, so you have more flexibility in planting time.
The chance of plants dying is less than starting seeds.

Disadvantages of Buying Transplants or Seedlings

Buying young plants is much more expensive than seed packets. This cost adds up if you need to purchase a lot of plants.
Buying plants can bring insect or disease problems from the greenhouse or nursery, spreading them to your other flower bed plants.
You are limited to varieties you can buy locally.
Most plants are hybrids, so you can’t save seeds from them to grow the following season.

Selecting the Right Plants for Your Flower Bed

Choosing what flowers to plant in your flower bed or garden takes a little more thought than going to the store and grabbing whichever ones catch your eye or you think look pretty. Well, you can select plants that way, but there’s a high chance they won’t do well. You must consider a few things when buying plants.

Do I Want Perennials, Annuals, or Biennials?

First, take a minute and decide if you want perennials, annuals, or biennials. Many gardeners believe the secret to long-term success is planting all three varieties in your flower beds.

How Hardy Do My Plants Need to Be?

Along with how long flowers will live, you need to choose plants suited for your local growing conditions, especially when growing perennials. Match flowers to your USDA growing zone so they will survive the heat of the summer and live through your winter conditions. If you live in hot, dry climates, look for more drought-tolerant flowers like coneflower, lantana, Valerian, and blanket flowers.

How Much Sunlight Does the Flower Bed Get?

The amount of sun the flower beds get during the day also needs to be considered. Most flowering ornamental plants need plenty of light (e.g., they are classified as full sun), or their blooms may be lackluster. There are some plants, though, that are shade-tolerant.

Full-sun plants need six or more hours of direct sun each day. The exposure doesn’t have to be a continuous stretch but can be broken up throughout the day as long as the total is adequate.
Partial-sun and partial-shade plants need between four and six hours of sun throughout the day. Partial-sun plants prefer amounts as close to six hours as possible; partial-shade flowers prefer less light while still hitting the minimum four hours.
Full-shade flowering plants want fewer than four hours of sunlight every day. They prefer filtered sunlight, dappled shade, or early-morning direct sun.

What Kind of Soil Do I Have?

Also, consider how heavy your soil is, meaning if it has a lot of clay or sand. Clay soils hold water and don’t drain well, so you need flowers like canna lilies or lily of the valley. If you have slightly acidic soils, daffodils and camellias are good choices.

How Much Maintenance Do I Want to Do?

Lastly, think about how much time and effort you’re willing to put into upkeep. Flowers like petunias need constant deadheading to remove spent blossoms, while coneflowers and Black-eyed Susans need little care throughout the season.

Choosing Between Native and Non-Native Species

As more and more people are becoming environmentally conscious, they are opting to plant native plants in their flower beds and yards. Native plants are better adapted to grow in local areas, requiring fewer inputs like water and fertilizer.

What Are Native Species?

Native plant species are original to an area, whether that is your immediate region or a broader scope such as your state, country, or continent. According to the USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service, plant species are indigenous to a region if they were present at the time of European settlement.

Benefits and Disadvantages of Native Flowers

Native flowering plants are adapted to your local climate, giving them significant advantages when planted versus non-native species. On the other hand, they also have distinct disadvantages over non-natives.

Common flowers native to the United States include Black-eyed Susans, coneflower, coral bells, butterfly weed, fireweed, and cardinal flowers.

Advantages of Native Flowering Plants

Native plants are more drought-resistant, so they require less water.
They often grow in poor soils in the wild, so they generally need less fertilizer.
They are hardier than introduced or hybrid species.
Plants have better resistance to insects, pests, and diseases.
Natives are known for attracting pollinators to your garden.
They provide plant habitats, encourage wildlife populations in urban or suburban areas, and improve animal biodiversity.
Plants typically have higher leaf density and can better shade weeds beneath the leaf canopy.
Plants are better equipped to pull greenhouse gases — mainly carbon dioxide — from the atmosphere, sequestering the carbon into the soil.

Disadvantages of Native Flowering Plants

Considerably fewer options to choose from than non-native species.
Plants may be harder to find locally and more expensive to purchase.
Plants tend to be invasive, so you must be careful they don’t take over your flowerbeds.
Natives look more unkempt and wild. They don’t look as neat as non-native flowering plants.

Benefits and Disadvantages of Non-Native Flowering Plants

Non-native shrubs are not indigenous. They have been introduced to an area over time and are typically brought in because they have desirable physical characteristics.

Advantages of Non-Native Flowering Plants

Disadvantages of Non-Native Flowering Plants

Understanding Perennials, Annuals, and Biennials

There are many different ways to classify plants, but at the very basic level, you can put plants into one of three categories based on the length of their life cycle. Plants are classified as perennials, annuals, or biennials.

What Are Perennial Plants?

Perennial plants are the ones that live for numerous seasons after they are planted. When the frost hits in the fall or temperatures drop for winter, they store energy and resources in their roots and go dormant. Generally, the portion of the plant above ground dies back. The following spring, the plant “wakes up” again and regrows from the root system.

Common perennials are daylilies, purple coneflowers, phlox, Black-eyed Susans, sedum, asters, dianthus, and salvia.

Are There Disadvantages to Perennials?

What Are Annual Plants?

Annual plants complete their entire life cycle from spring to fall. Within a single growing season, they germinate, bloom, produce seeds, release seeds, and then perish. Their goal is to produce as many seeds as quickly as possible.

Common annuals are petunias, marigolds, cosmos, zinnias, nasturtium, begonias, impatiens, and geraniums.

Are There Disadvantages to Annuals?

Annuals must be replanted every year, although sometimes they may self-seed, and new plants germinate each spring.
Annuals are not nearly as hardy as perennials and biennials, and some are very frost-tender.
Annuals tend to require more day-to-day care than perennials and biennials because they don’t establish robust root systems.

What Are Biennial Plants?

As the name suggests, biennials take two years or growing seasons to complete their life cycle. In the first year, they establish roots and foliage; during the second year, they flower and produce seeds before they die.

Biennials are typically more cold-tolerant than annuals. Many plants need the cold winter temperature to trigger flowering the following season. In many cases, they perform similar to perennials because they constantly sprout new plants from the seeds produced.

Common biennials include foxglove, hollyhock, sweet william, pansies, forget-me-nots, and canterbury bells.