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JA-Watering B

水をより良い方法で

水やり前の確認

植物の土が乾きすぎているかどうか、指を使って確認する方法があります。土の中に指を2～5センチ程度突っ込んでから抜き、指が乾いているかどうかを確認すれば良いだけです。乾いている場合は、もっと水を与えたほうがよいでしょう。指の代わりに鉛筆を使用して、同じ方法で確認することも可能です。

水不足の際に、植物が示すいくつかの兆候

植物が水不足に陥っている時には、葉が変色したり、触るともろく感じたりすることがあります。水をやりすぎた場合は、葉が茶色や黄色に変色したり、水ぶくれができたりすることが多いでしょう。さらに、あまりにも水が過剰な場合は、茎がどろどろに崩れたり、土にカビが生えたり、植物全体がしおれたりするでしょう。

植物の水やりの方法：

底面給水

鉢植えで_COMMON_NAME_を育てている場合に、植物の根から吸水させ、強く成長させるために有効な方法です：

鉢植えを受け皿や容器に入れ、受け皿に水を入れます。
水が水抜き穴を通って土に吸収されなくなるまで、受け皿に水を注ぎ続けます。
過湿による根腐れを防ぐため、受け皿に溜まった余分な水は捨てるか、鉢植えを容器から出しておきましょう。

乾燥により土が圧縮されてしまっているときや、上からの水やりでは土が十分に吸水できないときにも使える方法です。

上からの水やり

ほとんどの植物にとって最適で、最もシンプルな水やり方法です：

植物は根から水を吸収するため、根の近くに水をかけます。
葉や茎に水をかけると、過剰な水分により病気にかかりやすくなるので避けましょう。
鉢の底にある水抜き穴から水が出て来るまで注ぎ続けます。
過湿により根腐れしないように、植木鉢の下に受け皿がある場合は、溜まった水を必ず処分してください。

鉢植えの場合は、鉢の体積の4分の1～3分の1程度を目安として水を与えましょう。

植物に水をやるときの専門家のアドバイス

適切な水温の水を使用する

植物の水やりに使う水は、冷たいものか常温のものを使用しましょう。熱すぎる水は、植物に被害を及ぼす可能性があります。

季節によって必要な水の量が変わる

最も気温の高い夏には、いつもより多くの水を与える必要があるでしょう。高温のため土が早く乾き、植物の根から必要な水分が吸収されないためです。冬場には逆のことが言えます。冬場はほとんどの植物が休眠状態にあり、活発に成長しないため、水を必要としません。

通常、朝水やりをするのが最適

水やりのスケジュールに、時間帯が影響を及ぼすことがあります。多くの場合、朝水やりをするのが最適です。朝に水やりをすることで、植物が必要な水分を吸収する時間を確保することができます。また、朝水を与えることで、植物の葉を一日かけて乾かすことができ、病気の原因となる過剰な水分を蓄積しなくて済みます。真昼（特に夏場）に水やりをすると、強い日差しによって植物が吸水する前に蒸発してしまう恐れがあるので、必ずしも賢明な方法とは言えません。

水のやりすぎは深刻な問題

水を与えなければ、たいていの植物は枯れてしまいますが、水を与えすぎることも同様に深刻な問題です。水をやりすぎると、根腐れなどの被害を引き起こし、植物を死に至らせることさえあります。栽培する品種がどの程度の水を必要とするか調べて、最適な水量を与えましょう。

JA-Watering A

水をより良い方法で

水やり前の確認

本当に水が必要かどうか、土の感触を確かめるとよいでしょう。土の表面を指で触ってみて、乾いていると感じたら水やりに最適なタイミングです。しかし、湿っていると感じたら、今日は水やりの必要はありません。翌日再度確かめましょう。

水不足の際に、植物が示すいくつかの兆候

植物の水やりの方法：

底面給水

鉢植えで_COMMON_NAME_を育てている場合に、植物の根から吸水させ、強く成長させるために有効な方法です：

鉢植えを受け皿や容器に入れ、受け皿に水を入れます。
水が水抜き穴を通って土に吸収されなくなるまで、受け皿に水を注ぎ続けます。
過湿による根腐れを防ぐため、受け皿に溜まった余分な水は捨てるか、鉢植えを容器から出しておきましょう。

乾燥により土が圧縮されてしまっているときや、上からの水やりでは土が十分に吸水できないときにも使える方法です。

上からの水やり

ほとんどの植物にとって最適で、最もシンプルな水やり方法です：

植物は根から水を吸収するため、根の近くに水をかけます。
葉や茎に水をかけると、過剰な水分により病気にかかりやすくなるので避けましょう。
鉢の底にある水抜き穴から水が出て来るまで注ぎ続けます。
過湿により根腐れしないように、植木鉢の下に受け皿がある場合は、溜まった水を必ず処分してください。

鉢植えの場合は、鉢の体積の4分の1～3分の1程度を目安として水を与えましょう。

植物に水をやるときの専門家のアドバイス

適切な水温の水を使用する

植物の水やりに使う水は、冷たいものか常温のものを使用しましょう。熱すぎる水は、植物に被害を及ぼす可能性があります。

季節によって必要な水の量が変わる

通常、朝水やりをするのが最適

水のやりすぎは深刻な問題

Beautiful Desert Flower

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park

Weed Prevention Is Possible!

Preventing weeds can be difficult, but rest assured that it is possible. A well-suited plan used in tandem with proper materials and tools will undoubtedly turn a problematic situation into a much simpler and manageable task.

You have already armed yourself with the most powerful weapon to combat weeds: knowledge. Understanding their life cycles and propagation methods and identifying them by their characteristics is the first step in weed prevention. You now possess the ability to study your garden and create an effective weed prevention plan. By understanding your specific environment, you can make alterations in your landscaping that prevent local weeds from making a home in your garden.

One primary weed-prevention method is to avoid unintentionally cultivating areas where weeds will want to grow by identifying spots weeds find welcoming. As we learned in Chapter 4, implementing cover materials such as mulch and membranes creates a separate layer that makes it harder for weeds to grow and prosper. Similarly, cover crops are an ideal solution to limit weeds since their ground-smothering nature limits viable growth areas.

Regular landscaping and lawn maintenance are essential to control existing weeds and stop their spread. For example, regular rotor-tilling and lawn mowing interrupt the growing cycle and prevent seed production. Additionally, it is necessary to tackle newly sprouted weeds that pass preventive defenses before they have a chance to grow and spread. Regularly removing small weeds as they sprout with the help of a garden hoe is an excellent and environmentally safe option. As a last resort, chemical weed killers will effectively kill any stubborn weeds that succeed in spreading despite your best preventive measures.

Proper weed identification is also an essential weed preventive method. Knowing which plants fall under the weed classification will stop you from mistaking and introducing weeds as decorative plants in your garden. Similarly, properly planting your weedy house plants in confined areas such as pots and regularly trimming them will keep them from spreading beyond your control. Unfortunately, some weeds have the potential to cause a lot of harm. Familiarize yourself with local government and agricultural laws to correctly identify and remove invasive and harmful weed species in your community. If you discover that you’ve accidentally planted one in your home or garden, dispose of it properly to avoid further propagation.

Additionally, understanding how weeds spread across areas is key to weed prevention. Vertical defenses are an ideal remedy to prevent the spread of seeds that travel in the wind. Planting hedges, constructing fences, and developing treelines can dramatically reduce the transfer of seeds from neighboring properties.

Weed management is a job that requires knowledge, dedication, and money. Weeds can be daunting and relentless, but by putting a plan into action, you will see that with consistency, weeds are preventable.

Keep These Precautions in Mind

Once you have removed the weeds and collected them, they must be disposed of correctly.

It’s best to relocate the weeds using some form of a bucket to prevent seeds from dropping through your fingers, leaving a trail of seeds in your path.

Consider establishing a composting facility in your garden if you don’t already have one. Not only is it beneficial for disposing of vegetation, but it is an effective form of weed disposal. Decomposing vegetation in compost reaches a temperature of 145 degrees Fahrenheit, effectively killing weed seeds. Composing should be approached with extreme caution. If the composing is not carried out correctly, then seeds and disease will be transferred back to the garden.

If available in your community, place the weeds in well-sealed garbage bag and place in an appropriate bin to be collected by local collections and delivered to proper treatment facilities. It’s important to ensure the garbage bag is firmly sealed so that transfer cannot occur during transit.

Wait the entire period required for chemicals to evaporate before planting new vegetation. The ideal wait time is between three and seven days.

If you do not intend to plant immediately, cover the area to prevent any straggling weeds or seeds from growing.

Why Weeds Grow in Our Garden

Weeds are opportunistic plants that grow wherever and whenever the opportunity arises. They produce large amounts of seeds, which spread quickly by means of wind, water flow, animals, and even humans, among other things.

Understanding the different weed classifications, characteristics, living conditions, and propagation methods will assist in weed management and the steps you can take.

Exploring the Different Types of Weeds

There are three primary weed classifications based on their morphological features: grasses, broadleaf, and sedges. These classifications further break down into annual, biennial, and perennial subclassifications.

Weed Classifications

Grasses are monocotyledons, meaning they only have one seed leaf when sprouting, also known as the embryonic leaf. Grass leaves have a parallel venation pattern that is long and narrow, where leaves alternate from one side to the next along a culm (hollow stem). As grasses grow, they develop their lower leaf portion, the sheath, then their upper section, called the blade. Finally, the sheath extends, wrapping itself around the culm, creating the complete upper segment of the grass. Grasses have an extensive fibrous root system.

Grasses thrive in conditions equal to that of lawns. Still, they can tolerate less water, shaded areas and adapt to various nutrient levels. Their relentless nature is why you can find them in both garden lawns and parkland.

Grassy weeds propagate prolifically by producing immense quantities of seeds. A single plant can create up to 150,000 seeds.

Plant examples: Crabgrass and Dallisgrass

Sedges are also monocotyledon, similar to grasses, but not true grasses as they have solid stems. Their leaf grows in a triplet, unlike grasses which grow in pairs. Additionally, at the base of the leaf (sheath), a tube is formed connecting to the culm (stem) with no apparent difference between blade and sheath.

Sedges thrive in moist and sunny environments. However, they can adapt to various conditions, including rocky or fertile soils, sun or shade, and wet or dry. Sedges prosper and grow into large plants when they have access to sufficient water and sun.

Sedges propagate via seed production. A single plant can produce 20,000 seeds per year.

Plant examples: Evergold Japanese Variegated Sedge and Nutsedge

Broadleaf weeds have broad leaves with a central vein connecting to smaller veins that branch out from it. Their seeds sprout with two embryonic leaves, and they tend to have coarsely branched roots, often with a tap root. The stem branches out as the plant grows, allowing a single plant to become broad in stature. As a result, a single broadleaf weed has the ability to cover large amounts of ground.

The most adaptive weed is the broadleaf. This weed species faces few obstacles when it comes to growing conditions and the environment. Incredibly versatile, they can grow nearly anywhere. Native broadleaf weeds will grow in coastal and alpine zones, dry and moist soil, and even in drought, frost, or snow.

Propagation of broadleaf plants occurs post-flowering, with individual plants generating more than 120,000 seeds depending on species.

Plant examples: Dandelion and White Clover.

Practical Techniques to Remove Weeds from the Garden

There are two primary methods for weed removal: mechanical and chemical. These methods provide a range of approaches that are suitable for all users with a wide range of capabilities. For example, mechanical methods include hand-weeding and mowing. In contrast, chemical methods deal with applying chemical substances distributed with tools such as pumps and backpack sprayers.

Before choosing a removal method, it is important to understand the vegetation that needs removal as well as your own physical limitations. In some cases, weeds may be toxic, have thorns, or have other harmful qualities. Some methods require bulky equipment that may not be suitable for certain terrains. Precaution is essential when handling any operations within the garden to prevent harm to yourself and others.

How to Use Mechanical Methods for Weed Removal

Hand-weeding is a suitable method to use in small areas for small weeds. However, it can be time-consuming and is not recommendable for large areas. In addition, it’s vital to remove the weed as a whole, including its root. When dealing with large weeds, there is a risk that the root will snap during the pulling process due to its depth. Hand-weeding is the simplest method since it does not require special tools.

Tips:

Tackle weeds in their early growth stage.

Removed with the root intact.

Take the weed by its base and slowly pull it upward to reduce the risk of snapping.

Tillage is the process of disturbing the soil bed by using either a hand-held hoe or a motorized rotor-tiller. The hoe method works by bringing the entire weed to the surface. The rotor-tiller destroys the weed and buries it to decompose and add nutrients to the soil. Hoes and rotor-tillers work more effectively with smaller plants. Large plants with extensive root systems can cause entanglement or are too large to be removed entirely and effectively.

Tips:

Properly dispose of up-rooted weeds to prevent them from re-rooting.

Running over the surface at least twice will chop weeds more effectively and bury weeds deeper.

Repeat tillage every two to four weeks while weeds actively grow to manage regrowth and new shoots.

Avoid all tillage when weeds have gone to seed to avoid planting seeds in the soil bed.

The initial tilling will disturb existing buried seeds and cause a weed bloom, but this will reduce in the second and third cycles.

Mowing weeds with a conventional lawn mower might manage to kill smaller weeds after two to three cuts. Generally, this method works by gradually depleting the weed’s stored energy. However, this is not the best solution because mowing doesn’t remove the root, allowing weeds the opportunity to re-sprout. The remaining root will continue to harvest nutrients and consume water, gradually undernourishing desirable plants and grass. Furthermore, the mower’s airflow may scatter new seeds to a larger area, worsening the weed problem.

Tips:

The lawn mower deck should be lowered to at least two inches.

Know your lawn’s recommended cutting height to avoid harming it.

Manage the cutting schedule so that it is not too far apart to prevent the weeds from flowering and going to seed.

Flame weeding is a method that utilizes propane gas and a wand. The propane flame passes over the above-ground portion of the weed, heating the tissue and causing enough harm to kill it. Flame weeding is ideal for sidewalk cracks, pathways, fence lines, or any area where weeds have sufficient distance from desired plants.

A notable drawback to flame weeding is the flame’s intensity and the user’s ability to direct it accurately. Therefore, properly controlling the flame is essential to avoid accidentally harming nearby plants and structures. Additionally, the device’s bulky setup can be unmanageable for some users. For example, the propane cylinder requires a dolly and may prove cumbersome on steep or uneven terrain.

Use caution. Flame weeding can pose many hazards, and understanding and adhering to local law is imperative. Flame weeding may only be allowed at certain times of the year or may be banned entirely.

Tips:

This technique best suits annual weeds one to two inches tall.

Perennial weeds require several treatments at two- to three-week intervals.

Always check with the local fire department about rules and regulations.

How to Use Chemicals for Weed Removal

Herbicides are chemical substances that are toxic to plants. Herbicides quickly kill plants by coating the leaves with toxins. Chemical weed killers can be applied using basic hand-held pump sprayers, backpack sprayers, and large towed machines.

Herbicides are either selective or non-selective. Selective herbicides target and kill specific grassy and broadleaf weeds. Their advantage is that they allow whole areas to be treated simultaneously without causing unwanted harm to other plants. They are excellent for lawns. However, selective herbicides are less effective and may require repeated treatments. Non-selective herbicides cannot distinguish between plants and weeds. Therefore, non-selective herbicides will kill or harm any plant they come into contact with and work best in contained areas.

When using chemical products for the garden, it is vital to follow the product instructions and acquire professional advice when needed. For example, improper use of glyphosate herbicide can cause rashes, blindness, blisters, dizziness, nausea, diarrhea, and death. Paraquat can cause multiple organ failures and lethal blood cancer. Ensure the use of protective personal equipment and barriers such as ear defenders, eyewear, gloves, and respiratory devices accordingly.

Exploring Useful Methods to Control and Prevent Weeds

Designing and structuring a garden is the first line of defense when controlling and eradicating weeds. Incorporating design choices throughout the garden by selecting appropriate landscape materials and plants can vastly reduce, if not eliminate, the weed’s ability to invade and take over gardens.

Staying within the limits of local environmental, topographical and geographical conditions will ensure that harvest plants and organic materials thrive in a garden.

Locations with heavy precipitation may not be ideal for lightweight natural mulch, as this material is easily eroded and carried into unwanted areas via water flow. Slopes, banks, level areas, and even wall faces also play a part in the decision-making process. For instance, loose material such as pine straw is inappropriate for steep terrain due to its mobility and is better suited to level surfaces. Similarly, materials and plants considered for weed management are limited to their location. For example, coastal tropical areas produce coral rock and shells, whereas cypress forests produce timber used to manufacture decorative mulch. Similarly, plant availability can differ from region to region. Understanding the effects of the natural environment on materials and plants can help save time, energy, and financial costs.

Tackle Weed Prevention with Soil Covers

Organic Material

Ground-covering materials such as natural mulch, pine straw, and pine bark are all affordable, raw materials that provide an excellent solution to weed control. They work by creating a separation barrier that limits the growth of weeds. In addition, natural materials retain moisture, decompose over time, provide additional nutrients to the soil, and regulate soil temperature due to their insulating properties.

Mulch should be layered on top of planting beds with a thickness of approximately one to four inches, ideally three inches. It’s essential to stay within this range as under-mulching will be ineffective, and over-mulching may suffocate the plants.

Aggregate Material

Much like organic material, aggregate such as river rock, shell, and pea shingle creates a separating barrier, deterring weeds from germinating and sprouting in the covered locations. As opposed to retaining moisture like organic material, aggregate provides drainage allowing the water to pass straight through. Aggregate material is desirable in areas that experience higher water flow because aggregate material will dramatically reduce erosion. Initial costs for aggregate tend to be higher but are offset by their low maintenance and durability.

The depth of aggregate installation differs depending on the material itself. Likewise, the size of the material will vary depending on the material used.

Depth Calculator

Range of material size 1/2″ – 5/8″ Depth 2″

Range of material size 3/4’’-1″ Depth 2″

Range of material size 1’’-3″ Depth 1’’-3″

Range of material size 3’’-8″ Depth 3’-8″

Material Membrane & Fabric

Membranes and landscaping fabrics are an excellent preventer of weed growth at an affordable cost. They are used extensively within agricultural farming as a stanalone solution. Incorporating them into the garden environment in conjunction with aggregates and organic materials significantly improves weed management, creating a near-impenetrable barrier. In addition, they successfully prevent the covering materials from mixing with the ground beneath, aiding in their longevity. Membranes and fabrics do not require additional coverage and are excellent for vegetable patches and greenhouses. In landscaping, it’s best to add covering such as mulch and aggregate for a more pleasing look. Manufactured materials are available in various specifications and easily adapt to all sorts of environmental, topographical, and geographical scenarios.

Cover-Crop Plants

Alternatively referred to as smother crops, cover crops competitively suppress unwanted weeds. The more robust cover-crop plants establish themselves rapidly, effectively outgrowing weeds and suffocating weed seedlings. Cover crop’s dominant ability is to consume resources beyond the threshold of the weed’s needs. They effectively smother weeds by depriving them of nutrients, moisture, sunlight, and space. Cover crops can have advantages over other weed management solutions. They tend to have a more appealing appearance and may lower costs when covering large areas.

Examples of Cover Crops/Smother Crops

Grasses & Grains: Barley, Ryegrass, Buckwheat, Oats.

Brassicas: Forage Radish, Canola, Mustard, Arugula.

Legumes: Alfalfa, Field Peas, Fava Beans, Crimson Clover.

Some of Your Plants Might Be Weeds

People have often taken plants from one region to another without knowing their potential harm and consequences. This unintentional practice has seen worldwide devastation. Most ecosystems lack the natural means to combat and control non-native plant species. With the right conditions, some non-native plants expand aggressively and become invasive and harmful.

Many of your plants might be non-native, invasive weeds. These plants may be growing freely in the home and garden without you even realizing it. Therefore, it’s important to know what weed species are invasive in your area. Also, keep in mind that your local plant supplier might be distributing invasive weeds.

Let us take a look at some common invasive weeds and how you can keep them under control.

- Chinese Wisteria — Wisteria Sinensis

Native Location: China

Native to China, the Wisteria is a very popular flowering vine located in many homes and gardens. In its non-native location, the vine will quickly displace the native vegetation. It even has the power to suffocate trees. It drops seeds that sprout in the vacated space of the suffocated plant.

Cutting back is recommended to stop the plant from spreading to an unmanageable size. Once the flowers fade, prune back before seeds develop during the summer. In addition, you can help stop the spread by pruning back any unruly shoots throughout the year.

Bamboo — Phyllostachys spp

Native Location: China, North Indochina

The bamboo is a giant grass that spans the globe, excluding Antarctica. Bamboo is a trendy house and garden plant with over 1,000 species. However, most people are unaware that it is one of the most invasive plants out there. It is an aggressive grower with the ability to dig its roots 20 feet underground. Its canopy can grow up to a foot a day!

The most effective way to stop bamboo from spreading is to plant it within a container; this prevents the roots from traveling to new areas. You can also trim the root or remove fresh sprouts from existing bamboo to keep it in check.

Winter Creeper/Creeping Euonymus — Euonymus fortunei

Native Location: China, Japan, Korea

Winter Creeper is a fast-growing evergreen vine that thrives year-round. Its ability to climb trellis and walls makes it an appealing addition to gardens. Yet it is an invasive plant that causes harm to other plants in the vicinity. Its mode of attack is to deplete nutrients and moisture from the soil and create a dense mat making it nearly impossible for natives to survive and regenerate. In addition, the growth rate and matting feature of the Winter Creeper allows it to grow on solid ground or climb up trees and structures.

Periodic pruning will control the spread of the Winter Creeper. Cutting back of the plant is essential after flowering before the seed has time to develop.

English Ivy — Hedera helix

Native Location: Europe, Western Asia

English Ivy is a vigorous growing vine that leaves destruction in its path. The vine suffocates and undermines any plant it overruns. If the ivy is allowed to grow large enough, it can form a sail from its structure that will catch wind and snow, forcing natives to succumb to bearing loads. Ivy vines are a favorite plant for tailing and climbing and are often seen on the facades of buildings.

Pinching off or snapping new growth of the English Ivy will limit the extent to which the plant can grow. Removing the berries before developing seeds also helps curb the ivy’s growth. For larger plants where removing berries is unachievable, the removal of germinating sprouts is your following option.

Mexican Petunia — Ruellia Simplex

Native Location: Mexico, The Caribbean, South Africa

Mexican Petunias are an aggressive purple flowering perennial that displaces native species, alters ecological functions and hybridizes with natives. This plant is a popular choice because it produces low-level sprawling hedges or clumping patches.

The continuous cutting back of the petunia is the best control method. The plant proliferates and requires pruning and the removal of any spreading shoots several times a year.

Periwinkle — Vinca minor

Native Location: Europe, Western Asia

This ground-cover plant is an attractive alternative to grass and lawns. Its lovely flowers and foliage provide easy maintenance, whether grown inside or out. A fast-growing creeper, it naturally creates a matting on forest floors displacing native herbaceous, woody plant species leaving the area bare of natives.

The periwinkle, much like other flowering plants, produces seeds post-flowering. Heavy annual pruning keeps the plant to a manageable size.

Weeping Lovegrass — Eragrostis curvula

Native Location: Southern Africa

This tall grass provides exotic foliage to gardens. It is also planted as a cover to protect areas from erosion. Lovegrass is a quick establisher that can spread 175 meters per year. It overtakes its native competitors and reduces food sources for grazing animals. This grass species can also create a fire hazard in hot climates.

Like many types of grass, it can grow very tall if uncontrolled. The Weeping Lovegrass can extend to three to four feet. Pruning it back to 12 inches before seeding and pulling out new side shoots will keep this explosive plant under control.

Weeds Can Make Your Garden Nicer!

Some weeds possess a unique beauty and are highly coveted by gardeners worldwide. For example, flowering weeds, such as foxgloves and red valerian, greatly enhance the look of a garden. As you’ll be surprised to learn, some of your favorite plants might be weeds. For example, multiflora roses and violets seem too beautiful to be considered weeds, but they fall under the weed classification. Since weeds grow abundantly and without difficulty, flowering weeds can quickly cover large patches of land, adding a burst of color and wild beauty to any plot. St. John’s Wort, with its clusters of bright, yellow flowers, makes a great filler in any garden.

While some people get frustrated with weeds in their garden, it is key to remember that they are part of the natural world and have valuable benefits. Weeds can play an essential role in maintaining and enhancing the health and longevity of gardens. For example, weeds such as milkweed and dandelion attract desirable pollinators like butterflies and bees, which improve the appeal and health of any garden. In the winter, weeds can protect the soil and provide shelter and food for wildlife.

Here are some of the more-commonly known weed species grown in gardens:

Foxglove — Digitalis Purpurea f. Albiflora

Giant Hogweed — Heracleum mantegazzianum

Clematis — Clematis Alba

Ivy — Hedera Helix

Japanese Knotweed — Fallopia Japonica

Bluebells — Hyacinthoides non-Scripta

Dog Rose — Rosa Canin

Ivy-Leaved Toadflax — Cymbalaria Muralis

Wild Carrot — Daucus Carota

Knapweed — Centaurea Nigra

Yarrow — Achillea Millefolium

Red Valerian — Centranthus Ruber

Fennel — Foeniculum Vulgare

Cow Parsley — Anthriscus Sylvestris

Common Fumitory — Fumaria Officinalis

Common Daisies — Bellis Perennis