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How to Build an Automatic Irrigation System

Installing an automatic irrigation system will save you plenty of time and keep your plants well hydrated. With our easy step-by-step instructions, you can set up your watering system in no time.

Are you looking to install a DIY automatic sprinkler system in your yard? Grass, plants, trees, shrubs, and flower beds all need rain, sunlight, and minerals from the soil they are grown in. However, natural rainfall is not always consistent, and this is where a DIY underground automatic sprinkler system can save you time and money, and conserve water. This type of watering system allows you to direct water in the areas most needed and allows you to automate the watering schedule according to your needs.

Planning

When you are installing an automatic sprinkler system, you want to make sure you have 100% coverage, so there are no dry places in your yard. You can accomplish this by overlapping the spray pattern.
You can connect to an existing outdoor spigot or you can tap into the main water-service line. You may want to hire a professional to tap into the main water-service line.
Next, calculate the size of your yard and/or gardens with a tape measure or a surveyor's wheel. Create a diagram, plot the locations of the sprinkler heads, and mark them with survey flags.

Parts Required

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyethylene pipe
A manual control system
A backflow preventer
Valve manifold
Timers
Valves
Valve boxes
Head styles
Sprinkler heads
Risers
Fittings or couplings

Installation Steps

To place your irrigation pipes you will need to dig a 6" to 8" deep ditch with the sides sloping at 45 degrees.
Make sure your ditches are level. If some of the sprinkler heads are lower than others, gravity will reduce the efficiency of the irrigation system.
To install the valve manifold, you will need to dig a little bigger hole and place the box in the ground. You will also need to attach the valve manifold to the main water-service line.

To run the PVC pipe, connect a 3/4" PVC pipe to the valve manifold and continue placing the pipe along the main ditch. You will want to use "tee" connectors for all pipes running off the main water-service line. Attach risers using 90-degree connectors at the location of each survey flag.
A Tip: When you are putting the pipes together, apply heat to the ends of the pipes. This will make it easier to connect the pipes.

Maintenance

Flower of the Week: Columbine

Flower of the Week:

Columbine

Columbine is one of the most eye-catching plants in spring and summer gardens. Its vividly-colored, elegantly-curved flowers and lovely, clover-shaped leaves bestow an eccentric yet romantic charm upon this perennial herb native to Europe. As one of the genera in the Ranunculaceae family, which is full of beautiful species, columbine has plentiful cultivars and is superbly adaptable.

Eagle or Dove? The Origin of the Name

The plant’s genus name, Aquilegia, comes from the Latin word for “eagle” (aquila). Perhaps the initial person who named it took notice of the plant’s upward-warping spurs behind the petals and felt they looked like the talons of an eagle. The more commonly used name, columbine, comes from the Latin word for “dove” (columba), and an inverted flower does look like five converged doves.

A Bizarre Structure

Among the 60 to 70 sub-species of columbine, you’ll find bizarre-looking yet elegant spurs on almost all of them. This unforgettable look makes people wonder why the plant evolved to form such a strange structure.

Many animals feed on nectar, but the complex structure of spurs is a barrier that makes the nectar difficult to collect. In the foraging process, nectar feeders have to labor over the flowers back and forth. This actually increases the pollinating rate of columbines.

Dramatically Varying Spurs

Spurs vary dramatically among different species of columbines. In regards to the length of the spurs, A. ecalcarata is nearly spurless while A. longissima has spurs as long as 10 cm or more. When it comes to the shape of the spurs, A. vulgaris has curved spurs while A. viridiflora‘s spurs are almost straight. Columbines’ various spurs are evolved to host different visitors.

White-lined Sphinx and Columbine

Besides the differences in floral color and orientation, each species of Aquilegia has evolved a unique spur structure to attract a specific pollinator. For example, A. viridiflora‘s short and straight spurs are fit for bees, spurless A. ecalcarata are best for hoverflies, and A. longissima‘s super-long spurs are accessible to hawk moths with a long proboscis.

Beautiful Flowers, Deadly Toxicity

Indigenous Americans enjoy eating various columbine flowers in small amounts and using them for condiments together with other fresh vegetables. It’s reported that these flowers taste very sweet and are safe to eat in tiny quantities. However, the seeds and roots of columbines are highly poisonous and contain cardiogenic toxins. If consumed for food, they could cause severe gastroenteritis and heart palpitations, even turning fatal in serious conditions. For this reason, it’s best to resist the impulse to eat columbines. To stay on the safe side, don’t even attempt to taste the flowers, as it’s hard to determine a safe amount for consumption.

Can I Grow a Decent Columbine?

Columbines love partially shaded environments and soil with good drainage. You can begin growing them from seeds or small seedlings. The best season for seeding is in spring. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of dirt and wait for them to sprout, then expect flowers the following year. Deadheading the faded flowers helps them blossom more.

Columbines’ native habitats are high-altitude mountains and prairies.

Leaf miners can often be found on the leaves of columbines, who leave behind graffiti-like spots. This type of insect larvae is not especially harmful, and some consider the random motley appearances of the leaves an interesting look. You can easily find the larvae by following the spots, but if you like the altered appearance, you can leave them on the plant. If you don’t like the look, just crush the larvae as you find them.

Size:15 to 20 inches high, 12 to 18 inches wide

Hardiness: Zones 3 to 9

Size:15 to 20 inches high, 12 to 18 inches wide

Sunlight:Partial shade

Soil: Sandy and loose, well-drained soils

Bloom Time: Late spring to early summer

Flower of The Week: Peony

Flower of The Week:

Peony

The Peony is a perennial herb in the genus Paeonia, the only genus in the family Paeoniaceae. It is widely distributed throughout the temperate regions of the northern hemisphere, including East Asia, Europe, and western North America. It is a very beautiful garden plant, featuring straight branches and stunning flowers. Peonies also make very popular cut flowers.

All peonies are deciduous perennial herbs or shrubs. However, peonies can be divided into two main types: herbaceous species and woody species. During the winter, the above-ground parts of herbaceous peonies will wither and die back completely, while the thick rhizome remains dormant underground until the spring. In contrast, woody peonies, also known as “moutan”, lose their leaves in the winter but their woody stems remain above the ground.

Origins

The peony has long been a familiar ornamental and cut flower. However, if you wish to see where the peony originated, it is worth visiting China, which has been the cultivation center of peonies since ancient times. In fact, more than 1000 years ago, during the Tang Dynasty, peonies were planted on a large scale in the Royal Garden.

Luoyang, an ancient city of China, is famous for its peony cultivation. Since 1983, the Luoyang Peony Culture Festival has been held every year, during the peony blooming season. It is possible to visit dozens of peony exhibitions, large and small, in the city.

Other great destinations in China for viewing peonies are the Peony Garden, located in Chaozhou, Shandong Province, and the Peony Valley in Zhongjiang, Sichuan Province.

From the Flower of Love to Royal Approval

The peony occupies a very important position in Eastern culture. Since ancient times in China, the peony has been known as the flower of love. For example,The Book of Songs, one of the earliest collections of poetry in China, made reference to peonies: “a man and a woman who love each other express their feelings by giving peonies”.

As Chinese history developed, peonies and the Chinese royal family began to have an increasingly close connection. Royal palaces were filled with brightly colored peony flowers, signifying dignity and majesty and often used to describe the elegance of royal women.

Court Ladies Wearing Flowered Headdresses by Zhou Fang (c. late 8th–early 9th century)

The Heart of Condiments, the Favorite of Artists

In Europe, the cultivation of peonies also has a long history, but they were initially grown for food and medicine. In fact, peony roots are regarded as the best seasoning for barbecued food. In the fourteenth century, William Langland’s famous poem “Piers Plowman” mentioned that both peonies and pepper were regarded as spices.

In 1805, Sir Joseph Banks, a British explorer and naturalist introduced several Chinese peony varieties to the UK, one after the other. This was warmly welcomed by both British horticultural enthusiasts and the aristocratic community.

Many painters were fascinated by peonies, and several great artists painted them, including Renoir, Monet, Van Gogh, and more. This led to peonies becoming a favorite of the general public.

Peonies by Pierre-Auguste Renoir (c. 1880)

Vase with peonies and roses by Vincent Van Gogh (1886)

Young Woman with Peonies by Frederic Bazille (1870)

Blair's Favorite

The United States and France also began to cultivate a large number of peonies during the 19th century. Varieties of Paeonia gradually spread from the Royal Botanical Garden to people’s gardens. In 1903, the United States established the American Peony Society.

In the influential American teen drama TV show, Gossip Girl, Charles “Chuck” Bass stood on top of the Empire State Building and readied himself to propose to Blair Waldorf, while holding a bunch of peonies.

Can I Grow Peonies Myself?

It is very easy to grow peonies, because they are already well adapted to the garden environment. However, it can take several years for newly planted peonies to become fully established in your garden. During that time, you should take extra care to maintain your peony plants, by watering, fertilizing, and pruning them.

The stems of herbaceous peonies are soft, so they cannot always support their huge flowers, and their flowers often fall off. Therefore, when planting a peony, it is very important to choose the right support. You should also choose a variety of peony that is suitable for your garden and for the location in which you want to plant it.

Size: 50-70 cm (20-30 inches)

Hardiness: USDA zone 2-9

Sunlight: full sun

Soil: fertile,well-drained, pH 6.0-7.0

Water: no extra watering is needed, unless the weather is very dry

Fertilizer: at least 3 times a year, the timing is critical

Flower of the Week: Bigleaf Hydrangea

Flower of the Week:

Bigleaf Hydrangea

Whether it’s planted in a garden bed or a patio pot, Bigleaf hydrangea is one of the most spectacular flowering shrubs that you can add to your landscape. With a long blooming season lasting from late spring into fall, and fragrant flowers in shades of blue and pink, Hydrangea macrophylla is a great choice for gardens large and small.

While bigleaf Hydrangeas can be challenging to grow successfully, their magnificent blooms make them a favorite of gardeners.

Two Different Forms

The two most common forms of bigleaf hydrangeas are Hortensia and Lacecap.

Hortensias have huge, showy mopheads of blooms, often in stunning shades of blue, and continue blooming throughout the summer and into the fall.

Flower of the hortensias

Lacecaps are more delicate in appearance, the clusters of blooms are flattened, with small flowerets in the middle, surrounded by larger, showier flowers that only last for about a month in summer.

Flower of the lacecaps

The History of Hydrangeas

Originating in the woodlands of Japan, Big Leaf Hydrangeas have been cultivated in that country for close to two thousand years, and have long been one of the most beloved flowers in that country.

Hydrangeas in Kamakura

They were introduced to Europe in the eighteenth century by Carl Peter Thunberg, an employee of the Dutch East India Company, and in the nineteenth century the English plant explorer Charles Maries brought back some more varieties of bigleaf hydrangea from Japan.

Carl Peter Thunberg on a Sweden stamp

By the beginning of the twentieth century, the French were in the grip of a hydrangea craze, and their efforts to breed better hydrangeas led to the popularity of hydrangeas throughout the Western world in the 1900s, with no signs of letting up today.

Hydrangeas in France

France is home to the Shamrock Garden Hydrangea Collection in Normandy, with 5 acres of hydrangeas, and in July and August, the island of Faial in the Azores has thousands of deep-blue hydrangeas in bloom.

Hydrangea Festivals

Hydrangeas feature prominently in Japan’s culture, where they are called Ajisai. Annual Ajisai festivals celebrate the blooming season of hydrangeas in June and July, and tea brewed from Hydrangea serrata leaves, called “amacha” or “tea from heaven”, is customarily drunk on Buddha’s birthday on April 8.

Floating hydrangea in Meigetsuin temple, Kanagawa

The Meaning of Hydrangea Blossoms

In its home country of Japan, the blue hydrangea symbolizes deep emotion and contrition. Legend has it that an emperor gave blue hydrangeas to the family of the woman he loved as an apology for neglecting her. Also in Japan, pink hydrangeas are a traditional gift on a fourth wedding anniversary. Meanwhile, in Victorian England, white hydrangea blossoms symbolized arrogance and coldness when given to women who rejected suitors.

The Best Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are famous for their brilliant blue flowers, which depend on aluminum in acidic soil; otherwise, they revert to shades of pink and cream. There are hundreds of varieties available.

Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Glowing Embers’ produces red-pink mopheads in summer. Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Penny Mac’ has deep blue mopheads from July to October. Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Bailmer’ produces magnificent blue mopheads from June through to October; it’s very hardy and will bloom on old or new wood, making it a great choice for beginners.

Glowing embers hydrangea

Blue or Pink? You Choose!

One of the most fascinating things about Hydrangeas is that you can alter the color of the blooms by adjusting the soil pH. If you want blue flowers, you need to give your Hydrangea acidic soil full of organic matter, as the soil should be kept moist but well-drained. The other key to blue blooms is aluminum in the soil, which can only be taken up properly when the pH is low. You can add aluminum supplements in either granular or liquid form to encourage brilliant blue blooms.

If you prefer your hydrangeas in shades of pink, you need to raise the pH, which can be done with lime.

Can I Grow Hydrangeas Well?

Hydrangeas require careful siting and soil preparation to get the best blooms possible. These plants originated as understory shrubs in the forests of Japan, so it’s best to give them some shade, especially in hot climates. They will thrive with morning sun and afternoon shade. It’s also a good idea to avoid a south or west exposure, as the buds might open too early in those warmer spots, thus risking getting nipped by a late spell of cold weather.

Only prune Big Leaf Hydrangeas immediately after their blooms have faded, as most varieties bloom on old wood. Avoid any pruning after August 1, since next year’s flower buds form in late summer and fall.

Small varieties of bigleaf hydrangeas are perfectly suited to container cultivation, where you can more easily control the pH of the soil. Larger varieties can be grown as single specimens, or as an informal flowering hedge.

Size: 1-1.5 m (3-6 feet) height and spread

Hardiness: USDA Zone 5-9

Sunlight: Morning sun and afternoon shade

Soil: Moist but well-drained acidic to neutral pH soil

Bloom Time: late spring to fall

8 Practical Strategies to Avoid Lawn Problems

Keeping a lush, green yard is a dream of many homeowners, but you can run into a lot of issues from brown patches to weeds to compacted soil. If you want to solve these common lawn problems, read on for more information.

With tougher, more resilient grass on the market and a wealth of lawn care information on the internet, it should be easier than ever to keep a well-maintained lawn. Yet many people still struggle with lawn problems. So how do you get rid of them?

Since you’re dealing with nature, you can’t ever control all factors, but there are some common problems every lawn owner has faced and some standard strategies to solve them.

Brown Patches

Problem: When the rest of your grass looks fine and there are only a few problem areas then you’re probably dealing with a layer of dead or decaying vegetation. This buildup of organic material can change the pH balance of your lawn leading to patchy brown and spongy areas. Interestingly, brown patches are often seen in lawns that receive a lot of maintenance and were previously treated with chemicals.

Solution: The first step is to remove the thatch and dead grass from the area and then adding in some nutrients to balance the pH. Another more natural solution includes spraying the area with a diluted solution of molasses to encourage natural organisms to break down the thatch layer.

Dandelions

Problem: One or two dandelions might be cute in your lawn, but if you actually want to grow grass and not a field of dandelions, you’ll have to get rid of them. These hardy perennials will come back every year and can easily spread their seed all over your yard. If your lawn isn’t healthy, it can easily outcompete grass.

Solution: The best way to get rid of dandelions is to dig the whole plant up, roots and all. Get to them before they go to seed to prevent them from spreading. Of course, you can’t completely control the spread of dandelions. Dandelion seeds can fly up to 62 mile! It might be a never ending battle, but by removing them immediately, you can at least keep your lawn nice and clean.

Crabgrass or Grassy Weeds

Problem: Crabgrass is a hardy annual weed and thrives in compacted lawns with high nitrogen content. You might notice that whenever you give your grass some fertilizer, crabgrass tends to pop up. This problematic grass, along with other grassy weeds, are also hard to manage because often the herbicides that kill them will also kill your lawn!

Solution: Spread some corn gluten meal over your lawn. Apply this in the spring about two weeks before the last frost and you’ll notice a significant drop in almost all weeds. You’ll have to do this consistently over three years though to really reap the benefits. If you don’t want to use corn meal you can also apply a layer of mulch which can block out the sun and keep the seeds from germinating.

If you already have crabgrass your best bet is to catch it early when they are young and small. Remove the whole plants including the roots. Do not remove already mature plants. Since crabgrass is annual, it will die off after the first hard frost. Just make sure to seed any thin patches to prevent crabgrass from coming back.

Nutsedge

The problem: Nutsedge is a hardy weed that will quickly outcompete your grass. It will constantly steal away sunlight and nutrients from the surrounding vegetation leading to a lawn full of nutsedge. Unfortunately, this weed is also a perennial so, if left unchecked, will come back every year. To identify nutsedge from grass, roll it between your fingers. If it feels ‘sharp’ it’s a nutsedge as these plants have triangle-shaped stems as opposed to the round stems of grass.

The Solution: If you’ve tried to pull up nutsedges every spring, you might feel like it’s a never-ending battle as they pop up in the same place every year. That’s because the underground tubers will simply regrow even if you pull them up. What’s worse, these tubers can be dormant for up to three years so it can take years to fully eradicate nutsedge from your lawn. Contact your local lawn care specialist to apply selective herbicide that deals specifically with sedges.

Compacted Soil

The Problem: Many weeds, like crabgrass, thrive in compacted soil and clay. While you can’t really control the type of soil in your lawn, you can at least keep it aerated. In addition to being a favorite of weeds, compacted soil also makes it harder for water and fertilizer to reach your lawn’s roots. This ultimately weakens them while simultaneously encouraging weeds to grow.

The Solution: Healthy soil should be about 50 percent solid, 25 percent water, and 25 percent air. It might not be cheap, but the best thing you can do is rent an aerifier every other year and aerate your soil. Yes, it might not look great having a bunch of tiny holes in your lawn, but your grass will thank you. While it might not look great in the beginning, it will definitely keep your lawn healthy in the long run.

Dry and Dying Grass

The Problem: There are a lot of causes for dry and dying grass so it’s up to you to pay attention to what’s happening. Was there a recent heat wave in your area? Are there other issues with your lawn? You should check to make sure your grass is actually dead and not just dormant by doing a pull test. Simply go to the patch of brown grass and give it a pull. If the grass comes out with no resistance, it is dead.

The Solution: Depending on the problem, the solution will differ. You should consult with a professional to figure out the cause of your dead and dying grass. Maybe your grass is not suited to your climate or maybe you’re dealing with pests and/or disease. Either way, once you have it under control, you will have to reseed the areas as dead grass will not grow back.

White Grubs or Other Pests

The Problem: Grubs deplete the soil of nutrients and can often cause your lawn to yellow and eventually die if left unchecked. Animals, such as raccoons and skunks, that feed on grubs can also tear up your lawn looking for a tasty meal. If you do have grubs, you should be able to find them pretty quickly. Just pull up a patch of dead grass and look for white, c-shaped worms. They’re very easy to spot against the dark soil.

The Solution: Interestingly, insecticides do very little to control grubs. In most cases, they are completely unnecessary. Instead, you can use two biological options:

Milky spore disease - this bacteria controls chewing insects and is long-lasting, though it also takes a few years to reach peak efficiency
Nematodes - combine these with water and apply to the soil in early spring or fall. Nematodes are microscopic worms that occur naturally in the soil. The ‘good’ nematodes attach themselves to grub larvae and kill them. It does take time to work, but it’s very efficient.

It’s essential, though, to prune them correctly. If pruned improperly, you could end up with a plant that stops flowering completely.

Moles or Other Animals Digging up Soil

The Problem: Besides destroying the aesthetic of your lawn, the tunnels and mounds made by moles and other animals can make your lawn one big booby trap. Since the mounds and tunnels often collapse when you step on them, it can often cause injuries to people who are not paying attention.

The Solution: There’s unfortunately no good way to keep moles from digging through your lawn permanently. You can surround your yard with chicken wire buried at least one foot deep, but moles can dig deeper than that and can also travel short distances above ground. You can also trap them, but that doesn’t prevent other moles from moving in. Perhaps the most effective way to keep them away is to place ultrasonic devices near runs. Even then, moles can always dig new tunnels to avoid them.

Conclusion

Taking good care of your lawn requires a bit of research and some practice. However, even the best laid plans can be upended because you are dealing with nature. Still, it’s not completely impossible and with the help of the above strategies and maybe a trip to your local lawn care specialist, you can have the lawn you always wanted.

How to Add Non-Seeding Weeds into Compost

How to Add Non-Seeding Weeds Into Compost

Composting weeds is a great way to replenish your garden with nutrients that the weeds might have taken away. Of course, you’ll want to prevent them from sprouting in your compost and in order to do that you’ll have to follow some steps to make sure you’re not spreading weed seeds in your garden.

Whether you’re just starting out in the garden or are a seasoned green thumb, having your own compost is a great way to reduce waste and keep your plants happy. And while most people are more than happy to toss their food scraps into the compost bin, some are hesitant to throw weeds in there, too.

Considering how persistent and hardy weeds are, it’s natural to be nervous about adding them to your compost pile. But there is no better compost filler than the weeds that are already growing in your lawn and garden.

Benefits of Composting Weeds

If you’re still uneasy about composting weeds, consider:

Returning nutrients to the ground. One of the reasons why weeds are so hard to eradicate is their strong root systems. The roots absorb a huge amount of nutrients from the soil. By composting weeds, you are feeding the nutrients they have absorbed back to your plants.
Easy disposal. For proper compost, you need both green and brown materials. Weeds provide green material from their stems and leaves and brown material from their roots. Instead of taking time to bag up the weeds, you can place the whole plant into the compost bin, making for easy cleanup.
Reduce weed populations over time. While you’ll never be able to get rid of weeds entirely, removing the entire plant will reduce their population. If you pull up a plant before it seeds, you are also preventing future generations from spawning.

How to Make Compost With Weeds

When done correctly, composting should create a sterile organic material that basically acts as a natural fertilizer for your plants. Composting comes with its own set of challenges, but when you add weed to mix, you really need to be vigilant. Many gardeners have ended up with even more weeds than before, prompting them to stop throwing weeds into their compost heap.

There are two main methods of composting: hot and cool. Hot composting requires constant temperature monitoring and mixing. For beginners or amateur gardeners, it might be a bit too much work. However, the benefit of hot composting is that the compost will reach high enough temperatures to kill off any seeds and roots.

The cool composting method is more informal and relaxed. Instead of mixing, you add fresh materials to the top of the heap while the lower levels break down into compost. You can periodically remove the compost from the bottom of the pile as the fresh materials pile up on top. This takes longer, but it’s much easier. With that said, you’ll have to be more careful about how and when you add your weeds as the heap likely won’t reach the necessary temperatures to kill them.

Troubleshooting Tips for Composting Weeds

To make sure you don’t encourage more weed growth in your garden, it’s important to pay attention to when and how you add your weeds, especially if you plan on using the cool compost method. Remember, weeds are hardy so you really have to make sure that you’re following the appropriate steps to ensure they won’t germinate when you spread your compost. If you follow the tips below, you should be able to have a nutrient-rich and sterile compost:

Keep the right temperature. In an ideal hot-compost heap, the temperature can exceed 145 degrees F. At this temperature, most seeds and roots should die — yes, even weeds. The best way to know if your compost has reached the appropriate temperature is to use a compost thermometer. You should measure different parts of the pile to make sure the temperature is even throughout. If there are cold patches, then any seeds or roots in that area could end up surviving and spreading. You’ll have to turn the compost every so often to keep the materials aerated and to ensure they reach the necessary heat to kill seeds, roots, and seedlings. If you manage to get the compost to the right temperature, it should kill anything that is growing.
Harvest before seeds form. While this isn’t as important for a hot compost, it’s a step you should take if you plan on using the cool-compost method. Since the compost likely won’t reach high enough temperatures to kill off weeds, adding in weeds that have already seeded is basically a recipe for disaster. In general, early spring tends to be the best time to remove weeds from your garden as most of the plants will not go to seed until later. Dandelions, for example, take as little as eight weeks to go from seedling stage to bloom, and then just another week to go from bloom to seed, so you’ll have to work fast!
Pre-bake weeds. Most plants will be safe to add to your compost pile so long as you heat it to high enough temperatures to kill both roots and seeds. Even if you do decide to go the hot-compost route, you can always pre-bake your weeds for additional peace of mind. There are plenty of ways to do this. One way is to toss your weeds into a black bag and set them out in the hot sun for a few days. If you have a microwave, you can put the weeds in there and "nuke" them for a few seconds until they steam before you add them to your heap.
Let compost age. If you manage your compost pile well, it should be ready in as little as two months. However, if you’re dealing with weeds, you should probably let it go a bit longer, especially for the hot-compost method, to ensure the seeds and roots are truly dead. Compost can keep for at least a year, so there’s no rush to use it immediately. Take your time and look over your compost to make sure you don’t notice any seedlings popping up. If everything looks fine after a few months, go ahead and use it in your garden.

Weeds are the bane of many gardeners’ existence, but they can also serve as an excellent source of nutrients when added into a compost bin. Just make sure that you take the necessary precautions before you use your compost. Otherwise, you might have a dandelion or crabgrass outbreak on your hands!

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