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Weed Identification: 15 Common Unwelcome Weeds

Even with the best-laid plans, it’s hard to control your outdoor spaces. Those ideal growing conditions that you work so hard to cultivate for your landscaping plants are also fertile ground for the wild plants we call “weeds.” The following is a list of some of the most common invaders of gardens and yards.

Hairy crabgrass

Hairy crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis) is a plant species that is known worldwide as a common weed. In certain circumstances, Hairy crabgrass is used as animal fodder. This grass species is extremely hardy and almost always requires a detailed control plan, as any chemicals used to eliminate it may also harm surrounding grasses.

Common plantain

While native to Europe, the Common plantain was one of the first plants to reach North America through early European explorers. Native Americans have referred to Plantago major as ‘white mans footprint’, as it disrupted many local ecosystems by its introduction.

Field bindweed

Field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis) is a native Eurasian plant related to morning glory. It is considered an invasive species in non-native areas because it competes with other plants for sunlight and moisture. Field bindweed is very hard to eradicate because its taproots grow so deep and its seeds can remain viable for decades.

Curly dock

Rumex crispus, commonly known as Curly dock, is a perennial plant that grows in temperate regions of the northern hemisphere. It is a very adaptable plant, flourishing in a variety of different habitats including roadsides, the edges of woodlands, meadows, and shorelines. Some moth species like to lay their eggs on Curly dock leaves.

Field horsetail

Field horsetail (Equisetum arvense) grows from moist soils. In the spring it generates brown, non-photosynthetic stems whose whole purpose is to release reproductive spores. Once those stems wither, the plant grows its sterile photosynthetic stem to harvest and store energy for the next growing season. The plant fibers are slightly abrasive, and in the past were used to polish pewter and wooden objects. Ironically, Field horsetail is toxic to horses and other livestock.

Ground ivy

Ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea) is a perennial evergreen trailing plant, often found in grasslands and woodlands. Saxon peoples once spread the plant, but it has become invasive in some parts of the world now. The fast-growing Ground ivy can be toxic to horses but generally cannot harm other animals or humans.

White clover

White clover (Trifolium repens) is a perennial herb, one of the most cultivated species of clover. It can be found on lawns and grasslands all over the world. White clover is often cultivated as a forage plant and used for green manure in agriculture.

Common dandelion

Taraxacum officinale, widely known as Common dandelion is a herbaceous perennial that can be found in temperate regions all over the world, in habitats with moisty soils. The most popular feature of this plant are its fruits – furry spheres that are easily carried by the wind. Although it is generally considered a weed, Common dandelion is actually edible and very nutritious.

Common purslane

Portulaca oleracea, colloquially known as Common purslane, is an annual succulent species with reddish stems and tiny yellow, five-petal flowers. It is used for culinary purposes in various parts of the world, most often raw, in salads. Common purslane is also a good companion plant for crops that thrive in moist soils.

Poison sumac

Poison sumac (Toxicodendron vernix) is a woody shrub whose oil causes an itchy, burning rash. It’s considered more allergenic than poison ivy and poison oak. The sap from this plant is sometimes used to make a black varnish for woodworking.

Common nettle

Although the Common nettle has a variety of uses it is best known for its eponymous sting. It has sharp defensive hairs on its leaves and stems which will release pain-inducing chemicals when touched. Nevertheless, Dorset, England hosts an annual World Nettle Eating Championship, which started with a debate between two farmers over the severity of their nettle infestations. To consume them more safely, Common nettle must be thoroughly boiled.

Chameleon plant

Chameleon plant (Houttuynia cordata) is a perennial low-growing shrub. In spring, its leaves burst forth with a kaleidoscopic mix of red, green, and white coloration. The name “chameleon” references the plant’s colorful nature. In summer, beautiful white flowers with bristle-like centers bloom. Chameleon plant is common in Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine.

Annual ragweed

Annual ragweed (Ambrosia artemisiifolia) is one of the most notorious weeds in the world. It is an annual herbaceous plant with highly allergenic pollen and a very vigorous spread. Annual ragweed is a very competitive species, which is why its presence in cultivated plants is highly undesirable.

Oriental bittersweet

Celastrus orbiculatus is a vine that grows and spreads aggressively and has been deemed an invasive species in many areas. Oriental bittersweet is an opportunistic climber and climbs any available tree or structure. The vine wraps around itself as it climbs, and has been known to completely strangle or girdle a mature host tree.

Japanese knotweed

Hearing the name of Japanese knotweed can strike fear in the heart of homeowners. When this aggressive and invasive weed is identified on a property, mortgage lenders sometimes deny loans or demand extensive chemical treatment. This is due to the fact that the root system of Japanese knotweed is so extensive that once established, it can be nearly impossible to eradicate.

Magic: Using Vinegar to Clean Flower Pots

Are your flower pots dirty? Do your terracotta pots have white residue all over them? Now there’s any easy way to clean them using common household white vinegar. Check out our homemade recipes and instructions on how to easily clean your dirty pots.

Being avid gardeners also means that we’re environmentally conscious. Most gardeners never throw out a pot but rather, we keep them to use them over and over again. This, of course, means that we have to clean them.

Why? Well apart from old dirty pots not looking very nice, it’s also bad for the plants. Old pots can harbor pests and bacteria that can be transferred to the lovely new flowers that we’re going to plant into them.

By not cleaning the pots before you use them, you’ll be subjecting new flowers to any numerous types of soil-borne pests and diseases. But, fear not. Cleaning old pots is super easy when you use a product that you, most likely, already have in your home.

This magic cleaner is vinegar! It’s quite likely that you already use vinegar for many other cleaning tasks in the home. Well, have you also considered using it in your garden? If you follow the simple steps below, you’ll soon have lovely clean pots that you can reuse over and over again.

Using Vinegar to Remove Calcium Deposits

Calcium deposits are those white substances that you see on pots that have been in use for some time. Primarily, these come from both your tap water and also the non-organic fertilizers that you may be using.

The calcium will build up over time and create a chalky or crusty white residue on your pots that appears almost impossible to remove. But, if you use vinegar, these white calcium deposits will just dissolve away.

Vinegar is an acid while calcium is alkaline. This means that these two substances are chemical opposites. Therefore, the calcium will react when it connects with the vinegar and you’ll end up with a nice clean pot.

Here’s What You Need to Do:

Brush off any dirt in and on the pot. It’s best to use a pot brush for this. Just give the pot a good going over with the brush to remove any loose soil and cobwebs.
Find a tub large enough to soak your pots in. This could be a clean garbage can, a plastic tub or bucket or even your laundry tub.
Fill the tub with 1 part white vinegar and 4 parts water. Add around 1 teaspoon of dish soap. Make sure that there’s enough liquid in the tub so that you can submerge the pots in it.
Put your pots into the tub and soak them for at least an hour. If your pots are heavily stained, you might like to soak them for 24 hours.
Remove the pots from the liquid and rub them lightly with a damp cloth. Magically, all the white calcium deposits should just wipe off.
Rinse the pots with clear water and they’re, once again, ready for planting into.

Using Vinegar to Sterilize Your Pots

The good news is that vinegar can also be used to sterilize your pots. This is extremely important to remove any possibilities of bacteria remaining on the inside surfaces of the pot.

You can use this method for both plastic and clay pots and it’s much more environmentally friendly than using bleach.

Here’s What You Need to Do:

Find a suitable tub or bucket to soak the pots in. Make sure it’s large enough to handle the pots you want to sterilize.
Remove any loose soil or debris from the pots.
Fill the tub with a solution of 1 part vinegar to 1 part water. This is a stronger solution and will sterilize your pots very well.
Immerse your pots in the vinegar-water solution and let them soak for about 3 to 4 hours.
While still in the solution, scrub the pots well with a brush. Don’t worry, the solution won’t affect your skin like bleach does. However, you can wear gloves if your skin is sensitive to acid.
Rinse the pots with clean water and place them out into a sunny spot to dry completely.

If Your Pots Have Really Stubborn Stains You Can Do the Following:

Using Vinegar to Revitalize Your Terracotta Pots

Terracotta pots not only look lovely but they’re also favored by many gardeners because it’s almost impossible to overwater them. This is because terracotta is porous and any excess moisture will evaporate away. This makes them ideal for growing succulents in. Plus, they look adorable when planted up with a colorful array of flowers.

However, terracotta does seem to develop those calcium deposit stains much more readily. Of course, this is due to the porous nature of the pot.

Therefore, if you have scored some old terracotta pots that have seen better days, you can revitalize them by using vinegar.

Here’s What You Need to Do:

Scrub off any residual dirt
Make up a vinegar and water solution using 1 part vinegar and 4 parts water.
Soak the terracotta pots in this solution for around an hour. Make sure that the pots are completely submerged.
Use a brush to scrub the entire pot to remove the white residue and stains.
Rinse the pots well with clean water to remove any vinegar residue.

Final Thoughts

Cleaning your plastic or terracotta flower pots is not a difficult task when you use vinegar. The vinegar will dissolve any calcium deposits and other stains and will also sterilize your pots.

Using the methods described above, you should have your flower pots nice and clean in no time. And, you can be happy in the knowledge that anything you plant in these clean pots will be nice and healthy.

Our Favorite Prunus Trees That Bloom in Spring

The trees of the Prunus genus are an exciting bunch. They cover the full range of the world’s plums, cherries, apricots, and even almonds. But not only do these trees produce delicious fruits, they also generate gorgeous springtime blooms and extremely useful lumber. Come learn more about these fantastic trees!

Cherry plum

Cherry plum ( Prunus cerasifera ) is a deciduous small tree or a shrub native to Southern Europe and Western Asia. It is one of the most common wild fruits of its native region, producing numerous, rounded, yellow, red, or burgundy-colored, sweet, juicy fruit in summer and autumn. Cherry plum is also used as an ornamental tree, and as rootstock for other Prunus species.

Bird cherry

Bird cherry (Prunus padus) is a small deciduous cherry tree in the subgenus Padus. This species is native to Europe, where it is also known as the Mayday tree because of its historical importance in spring (May Day) festivals. The Bird cherry is pollinated by bees and flies. The leaves, stems, and fruits of this species can be toxic to some mammals. In the past, the bark of this tree was traditionally placed near doorways as a spiritual gesture to ward off the plague.

Sweet cherry

Sweet cherry is a well-known species to fruit lovers worldwide. This stone fruit varies in flavor from sweet to tart, depending on the specific cultivar. Sweet cherry is also used for lumber and is a preferred wood type for furniture.

Japanese cherry

The blossoms of the Japanese cherry are the national flower of Japan and are a herald of the spring season worldwide. In Japan, a traditional picnic to view these lovely blossoms is a yearly tradition for many. The sweet scent of blossoms is one of the most popular choices for perfume.

Peach

Peach is native to Northwest China. China, Spain, and Italy are the top three producers of peaches world-wide. The peach is also the state fruit of Georgia. Peach production in the US in 2017 was valued at $599 million. The fruit has a yellow or white flesh, a sweet aroma, and a skin that is either velvety (peaches) or smooth (nectarines).

Flowering almond

A large ornamental shrub, the Flowering almond or Prunus triloba, bears prolific pale pink blossoms in the spring. This shrub responds well to pruning, which will help it retain its compact size. Its red fruits are attractive to a variety of wildlife.

Armenian plum

Armenian plum (Prunus armeniaca) is a fruit-bearing plant species native to Asia. Although the genus name, “Prunus,” means plum, the fruits of this tree are actually apricots. The seeds are occasionally used as substitutes for almonds because they share a similar shape and nutty taste. The Armenian plum has been cultivated by humans for centuries, and was even discovered in the remains of ancient Armenian settlements.

Winter-flowering cherry

Winter-flowering cherry, as its name suggests, it blooms around the spring equinox week which is earlier than Yoshino cherry. The flower appears to be pale red to white with five single-flowered petals. This cherry blossom is a species with very long life-span among cherry blossoms. Because of its many flowering properties, it is used as the female parent of many varieties. It is also called the mother tree of Yoshino cherry.

Fuji cherry

Fuji cherry has 5 single-flowered petals with the color from white to pale red. Unlike other species, flowers bloom downward. It’s not as big as a tree, even when its bigger size is 10 m tall. Interestingly, even when it’s about 1 m tall, it will still bloom. It seems to be pretty suitable to grow as a garden tree or bonsai because it has the characteristics of flowering and not growing up. It is very cold-resistant and can withstand a temperature of -20℃.

10 Types of Garden Trowel: Which One Do You Need?

Are you confused by all the different types of garden trowel available. Fear not because we’ll cover 10 different types of trowels and what they can be used for. So, the next time you need a trowel for a special purpose, you’ll know exactly which one to choose.

Every gardener needs a garden trowel. If you’re new to gardening and you haven’t got one yet, you might be confused as to which one you need. There are so many different types to choose from. But, are they all the same

Actually, each type of trowel is designed for different tasks around the garden. So, a trowel is not just a trowel. In fact, there are around ten garden trowel blades and all of them have a slightly different purpose.

If you’re confused, don’t worry. We will explain what each trowel is used for to help you decide which ones you need in your garden.

Traditional Trowel

This is the basic shape and style of garden trowel that has been around for many years. The blade looks like a miniature shovel. It has a rounded tip and slightly curved sides.

This type of trowel is used for digging small holes in the garden to plant seedlings and potted plants and it can also be used when you’re potting into containers. Basically, it’s the foundation model of all garden trowels and definitely one you should have.

Transplanting Trowel

This type of trowel has a long, thin blade with a pointed tip and slightly rounded sides. As the name suggests, it’s mainly used for transplanting seedlings, small plants and bulbs from one position to another in the garden.

This trowel is also useful for when you’re working in confined spaces or you’re transplanting from a small pot into a larger one. Because of the long, thin nature of the blade, it’s also very useful for planting bulbs that only need a small hole.

Dixter Trowel

The dixter trowel has a long, thin blade that is the same width for the length of the blade. The tip is rounded. This trowel is primarily designed for planting into rock gardens as the thinness of the blade allows you to get into tight spaces easily.

The trowel is also commonly used for digging up weeds. The length of the blade allows you to easily get down to the roots of weeds and lever them up out of the ground.

Another use for this trowel is when you want to plant seeds into a drill. You use the tip of the blade to create a narrow drill that you can then plant the seeds into. Then, use the edge of the blade to fill in the drill and lightly tamp down.

Ladle Trowel

The tip of this trowel is quite small and round with curved edges. It also has a long, thin tapered piece that leads to the ladle. This tapered “rod” is curved. The trowel is designed in this way to allow you to dig around a hole and then scoop out the soil. This creates a nice, clean hole for you to plant into.

A common use for this trowel is to plant out bulbs into the garden as well as annual seedlings.

Potting Trowel

Every gardener needs a potting trowel. It’s similar to the traditional trowel, however, the sides are curved up higher to create more of a scoop shape. This is the perfect trowel to use when you’re growing in pots.

It allows you to easily scoop up some potting mix to fill your containers with. The trowel is also useful for re-potting plants into larger containers. The curved edges of the blade allow you to push it into the container and easily scoop out the plant with all its roots intact.

Digging Trowel

A digging trowel has a different shape to the traditional trowel. It features a long, thinner blade with a pointed tip in the shape of an arrow. It’s useful for when you need to dig small stones out of the garden and it allows you to break up the soil with its sharp tip.

Because of this sharp tip, it’s also very useful as a cutting tool for when you need to cut an opening into bags of potting mix or compost.

Tulip Trowel

As the name suggests, the blade on this trowel is shaped like a tulip with three sharp points and rounded sides to create a deep dish. It’s designed for gardeners who have to work with heavy clay.

The sharp tips allow you to break up the clay and dig holes for planting your seedlings into.

Weeding Trowel

A weeding trowel really does make weeding easier and you definitely shouldn’t be without one of these. It features a long, thin blade much like the dixter trowel but with a forked end.

This tip allows you to dig underneath the weed and cut through the roots before pulling it out. If you use it correctly, you should be able to lift out the weed, roots and all, without too much tugging.

Tissot Trowel

This is an interesting looking trowel for a very specific use. It has a very wide blade with a V-shaped tip. It is primarily designed for dividing up large clumps of plants with rhizomes like orchids or clivias.

It can also be quite useful for digging into hard clay when you want to create some planting holes.

Planting Trowel

You guessed it! The planting trowel is designed to plant out seedlings into the garden or into containers such as hanging baskets. It is smaller than the traditional trowel with a diamond shaped flat blade that has a pointed tip.

Final Thoughts

So now you have a better understanding of all the different types of trowels available and what their individual purpose is. Not every gardener will need each one of these trowels but most will want to have more than one.

When purchasing a trowel, make sure that you get the best quality trowel you can afford. Avoid trowels with plastic blades as these will break over time. It’s best to invest in a well-made trowel that has a coated steel blade.

If you choose wisely, your garden trowels should last you a lifetime.

Beginner Gardener? Try These 20 Easy-to-Grow Perennials

Perennial plants are great for inexperienced gardeners or those who don’t want to create a new flowerbed arrangement every year. These plants will grow back each spring, giving you dependable greenery and colorful flowers with minimal work.

Black-eyed susan

The Black-eyed susan is a flowering black and yellow plant with curving leaves. It is culturally important in the Southern U.S., and is often used to attract butterflies to gardens. It long ago spread throughout North America and much of the world. Black-eyed susan is the state flower of Maryland and was important in the history of the University of Southern Mississippi.

Orange daylily

The Orange daylily is a perennial plant known for its captivating lily-like blooms. Its natural habitats are meadows and forests, but it is also a common garden plant in temperate regions around the world. Each individual flower lasts only a day, but the plant will bloom new ones for weeks. Orange daylily ‘s young buds and flowers are edible either raw or cooked. As a bonus to vegetarians, the flowers contain more fats than most vegetables.

English lavender

The English lavender is a common flowering plant originally native to the Mediterranean region. Today, it is often used in scented products such as candles, oils, perfumes, soaps, and house sprays. The scent also has a deterrent effect against clothing moths.

Martagon lily

Martagon lily (Lilium martagon) is a lily plant native to Europe and Asia from Portugal to Mongolia. Martagon lily is a commonly cultivated ornamental garden plant and it is toxic to cats.

Hairy alumroot

Hairy alumroot (Heuchera villosa) is a perennial evergreen that grows on cliff sides, boulders, and rocky areas throughout its native eastern United States. There are two distinct varieties of Hairy alumroot that grow on opposite sides of the Appalachian mountains.

Woodland sage

Woodland sage is a clump-forming plant that is known for its purple flowers that grow on upright purple stems. This plant is especially attractive to butterflies and bees and the leaves give off a minty fragrance. This perennial should be cut back after flowering has concluded, usually in early fall.

Marvel of peru

Marvel of peru (Mirabilis jalapa), also known as the marvel of Peru, is a perennial, herbaceous, bushy plant with fragrant, showy flowers, commonly cultivated for ornamental purposes. During bloom time, its flowers are closed most of the day; they open between four and eight o’clock, hence the common name Four o’clock flower.

Scarlet beebalm

This perennial forms a cluster of bright-red flowers atop a 3 foot long stem, which are particularly attractive to hummingbirds. The leaves are aromatic, with a minty smell, and can also be brewed into tea, as the Oswego people taught the early European colonists in the New York area.

Common yarrow

Common yarrow is a wildflower that has feathery leaves and flowers in white, yellow or pink. In China, the plant is considered to be good luck while for some time in Scotland it was believed to have magical properties. It has been brewed into beer, tea, and liquors, but it has low toxicity. Don’t consumed in large quantities. Common yarrow ‘s bitter leaves are toxic to pets and horses. Other livestock can eat it, though it gives cow milk an unpleasant flavor.

Shasta daisy

Shasta daisy (Leucanthemum superbum) is a flowering herbaceous perennial plant named after Mount Shasta. It is a popular garden plant often cultivated for groundcover. Some species in the same genus are considered noxious weeds.

Bugleweed

Bugleweed is a mat-forming, dense plant that features blue flowers and shiny, dark green leaves. Although it works extremely well for a ground cover that will choke out weeds and provide a colorful display, Bugleweed does not tolerate much foot traffic. Take care to plant it in a location that is away from paths.

Dwarf pincushion flower

Dwarf pincushion flower (Scabiosa columbaria) is a flowering perennial native to Europe, Africa, and Asia. Dwarf pincushion flower grows longer into the summer season than most other flower species. This happens because it has a long taproot that allows it to extract water from deep in the water table.

Bearded iris

The Bearded iris is a flowering plant that appears in many different colors. It is a popular garden plant because it’s easy to grow. Though their native lands are in Europe, Bearded irises are often grown in Iranian cemeteries.

Garden phlox

The Garden phlox is a flowering plant that is native to the United States. The name, phlox, comes from the Latin for “flame,” reflecting its bright colors. Garden phlox flowers can become important food sources for insects and hummingbirds.

Orpine

Orpine (Hylotelephium telephium) is a perennial succulent native to Eurasia. This species is often planted in gardens for ornamental purposes and grows best in gravelly or calcareous soils. In Finland, the Orpine is an officially protected species because its leaves are the most important food source for the Apollo butterfly, the largest type of butterfly in that country.

Bigleaf lupine

While it is cultivated as a garden flower in many places, the Bigleaf lupine is considered an invasive species in others. As a garden plant, the Bigleaf lupine is commonly used to attract bees and retain nitrogen in the soil. But in New Zealand, Argentina, and various countries in Europe, Bigleaf lupine are grown invasively and causing many ecological problems.

Lance-leaved coreopsis

The Lance-leaved coreopsis attracts pollinators such as honeybees and butterflies but is considered an invasive species in many countries, such as Japan. Originally native to the eastern U.S., it has since spread around the world. The Lance-leaved coreopsis grows well in wet or dry soil.

New england aster

New england aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) is a flowering plant native to North America. It is widely cultivated for ornamental horticulture and as a garden plant. There are over 70 cultivars of New england aster.

Fragrant plantain lily

The trademark feature of Asia-native plantain lilies is the numerous glossy oval leaves with deep parallel veins. The Fragrant plantain lily is additionally decorated with strongly fragrant, trumpet-shaped, large white flowers, which are unique in the genus. Hosta plantaginea is one of the favorite cultivated plants for north-facing and shady gardens, but it also tolerates high humidity and temperatures.

Purple coneflower

Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is an herb native to North America that flourishes in prairie environments or open wooded areas. The Purple coneflower makes a good addition to a flower bed or garden because its blooms last the whole summer and attract pollinators such as bees and hummingbirds.

How to Pinch a Plant for Full Growth and High Yields

Sometimes the best way to get gorgeous blooms and control a plant’s shape is to pinch it. Learn what it means to pinch a plant and the best strategies to ensure you get bigger, better blossoms this summer.

Growing great plants takes lots of maintenance, and that often includes pinching them. Far from hurting your garden, pinching plants can encourage bloom production and promotes branching to help them achieve a better shape.

Here’s how to pinch a plant for the best results.

What Does It Mean to Pinch a Plant?

“Pinching” a plant is actually a form of pruning where you remove parts of the main stem to encourage fuller growth and a longer blooming period.

A soft pinch involves merely taking the top inch off stems, similar to deadheading. In contrast, a hard pinch involves removing several tiers of leaves and multiple inches from the top. In many cases, you will remove the main stem directly above its leaf nodes in order to force the plant to grow two new stems from the shoot.

Not all flowers are suitable for pinching, but varieties that respond well include petunias, dahlias, marigolds, sweet peas, and geraniums, as well as herbs like basil, tarragon, thyme, and sage. Be careful not to pinch campanula, delphinium, dill, larkspur, and most sunflowers, as removing their main stem will stop flower production altogether.

Why Pinch Out Plants?

Pinching certain plants offers many benefits, including the following.

Leads to denser, fuller plants with at least twice as many blooms
May extend the harvesting time for leafy herbs by preventing them from developing flowers and going to seed
Keeps plants compact and confined to smaller growing spaces
Encourages a longer blooming period
May increase the size of individual flowers

How to Pinch Out Plants

Although pinching plants is a form of pruning, it’s possible to do so with little more than your fingernails. However, garden shears can make the job easier, especially if you have multiple plants to pinch at once.

Plan to pinch early in the season so that you encourage bushing and spreading during the plant’s most vigorous growing time.

To pinch, simply put your thumb and forefinger around the new growth, squeezing with your fingernails until it comes off the plant. You want to take care to pull it off in a seamless way, so you don’t unnecessarily tear the plant and leave a large wound.

Make sure you pinch as close to the leaf nodes as possible, taking care not to hurt the pair of tiny buds forming there. Each of these leaf nodes will turn into a new stem, meaning that you’ll get two new branches for each one you pinch off.

It’s possible to pinch plants again once they have produced two or three more sets of leaves. Plan to stop pinching once you achieve your desired shape, and give the plant a generous dose of a phosphorus-based liquid fertilizer to keep the plant from getting stressed and to promote healthy flower production.

You can prolong the blooming season further by deadheading dry, withered blooms as you see them. If you want to stagger flowers throughout the summer for late-season bloomers like asters and sage, pinch back half of your plants by one-third. These pinched plants will then bloom later than the others and prolong your flower season.

It’s important to stop pinching plants by the middle of the growing season if your goal is seed production. Leave these late blooms in place so that they can successfully go to seed before the end of warm weather.

Pinch Plants for Better Blooms This Summer

Pinching plants is an easy way to maximize the beauty of your garden. Do you research about which varieties respond best to pinching, and you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous flowers for far longer than you would otherwise.

Why Did My Succulent Change Colors? Signs to Notice

Succulents change color because they’re under stress. However, this is not a bad thing and not something you should be worried about. In fact, we explain exactly why your succulent has changed color and what you can do to promote this.

Succulents are such striking plants that they’ve become a favorite with many people. They’re relatively easy to grow making them ideal for beginners and seasoned gardeners alike.

But, if you’re new to succulent growing, you might be concerned that your succulent has changed colors. More often than not, this is not something to worry about as it’s the plant’s natural reaction to certain stresses or changes in environment.

There are primarily three reasons why succulents change color. These are related to the amount of available sunlight, the amount of water they receive and the temperature range that they’re growing in.

You see, when conditions change, the plant will react with a change in color. Many succulents that have signs of red or orange around the borders of their leaves are under stress. But, this is not a bad thing. It’s just the plant’s response and can even be initiated if you want that tinge of red on your succulent leaves.

The Amount of Light the Succulent Gets

Most succulents do prefer some bright sunlight in the morning. This will encourage that brightly colored foliage. However, if your succulents are mainly growing in the shade, they will revert to green.

You might have noticed this if you’ve ever ordered succulents online. When these plants arrive on your doorstep, and you open the box, they will be green in color. This is because they’ve been deprived of sunlight for a few days.

To encourage these plants to display their more vibrant colors, simply give them some sunlight. Morning sun is ideal as the hot afternoon sun may scorch the plants and turn them brown instead.

If your succulents are growing indoors you can either place them on a bright windowsill or even place them outside for a couple of hours each day.

How Much Water the Succulent Gets

Succulents that get the ideal amount of water for their needs will generally turn green. This is because they are not under stress and are putting all their energy into growing.

Therefore, if you want to encourage some colorful growth, give your succulent a little less water. This might take a little bit of trial and error to get exactly the results you want.

For example, if you normally water your succulents once every week, try missing a week and see what happens. Don’t worry. This won’t do any long-term harm to your succulent but you might be rewarded with some vibrant color appearing on the tips of the foliage.

Whatever you do though, don’t ever overwater your succulents as this is the most common reason that succulents die. These plants don’t like having wet roots and sitting in water as this causes them to rot.

In the long run, it’s far better to underwater your succulents than to give them too much.

The Temperature Range the Succulent Is Exposed To

Once the temperature starts to drop, you will notice that your succulents start to change color. They’ll display more vibrant shades of red and pink. Especially when the temperature drops below 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

This is why succulents that are grown outdoors will be much more vibrant during winter and early spring. Then, once the temperature rises again, they lose some of their vibrancy.

To initiate a little color change in your indoor succulents, you can place them outside for a short period each day as long as the temperature is above 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Final Thoughts

Succulents change color because they are under stress. However, this is not something to be concerned about because it’s perfectly normal. Stress-free succulents that grow out of direct sunlight will generally revert to green.

To encourage your succulents to display some of their brighter colors, you can induce a little environmental stress to your plants. This won’t harm them but you’ll be rewarded with vibrant colors.

There are three things you can do to induce more colorful foliage:

Now that you understand why your succulents change colors, you can have a little fun with them to see what results you can produce. Remember though, that each succulent variety is different. So, try these different experiments in small doses to begin with.

Observe how your plant reacts and changes and then adjust your routine to get the best results.

16 Healthy Vegetables to Grow in Your Garden

With hundreds of different vegetables out there, choosing the right ones for your garden can be tricky. There are lots of factors to consider – soil, temperature, and sunlight requirements, growing season, and, of course, taste! In this article, we’ll help kick start your research by introducing you to our favorite garden vegetables.

Broccoli

Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) is a nutritious, cool-weather crop in the cabbage family grown extensively worldwide, both commercially and in home gardens. It is eaten as a nutritious vegetable, raw or cooked, and is frequently added to salads, casseroles, or vegetable platters. Its name comes from a similar Italian word that means the flowering crest of a cabbage.

Garden pea

Garden pea (Pisum sativum) is an annual vegetable that makes a hardy, cold weather crop. Also known as the green pea or garden pea, it grows from 1 to 1.5 feet tall. Peapods form after the first year and both peas and pods are edible and can be eaten cooked or raw. Excellent in stir fry, tender tips, called pea shoots, are also edible.

Common bean

Common bean is one of the most widely produced cash crops in the world, with 23.6 million tons grown in 2016. China is the largest producer of the Common bean , accounting for 79% of the market share. While the Common bean is known as a staple food source, the leaves can be used to trap bedbugs and the beans are widely used in a type of fortune-telling called favomancy.

Field mustard

Field mustard (Brassica rapa) is a plant that is widely cultivated and produces oilseed. Canola oil is made from the Field mustard oilseed. Field mustard attracts white butterflies who gain nutrients from its flowers.

Tomato

Solanum lycopersicum is an annual or perennial herbaceous vine native to Central and South America that produces a large, juicy, edible fruit known as Tomato. Today there are over 10000 cultivated varieties. Although tomato is the world’s most popular vegetable, botanically it is a fruit.

Cayenne pepper

The Cayenne pepper is a plant that produces bright red pepper vegetables. This chili pepper is commonly used for cooking in places such as the Southern U.S. and Central America. Most are moderately spicy, though because there are so many variants, the spice level can vary dramatically. Cayenne powder is also a popular seasoning product made from Cayenne pepper plants.

Beet

The Beet (Beta vulgaris) provides a variety of uses for food products and garden growth. The roots are commonly consumed as nutrient-rich vegetables, the body of the sugar beet is used to make table sugar, and the leaves are harvested as a separate vegetable: chard. In 18th-Century Silesia, an area that is now part of Poland, the first-ever beet sugar extraction plant was created by a royal decree from the king.

Cabbage

A member of the brassica family, Cabbage grows well in cool weather and full sun. It can be eaten raw, shredded in salads, or in soup, and is fermented to make sauerkraut.

Wild carrot

The Wild carrot is a common flowering plant with light, delicate flowers. Originally native to Europe and Asia, it has also spread to North America and Australia. Studies of historical paintings suggest that the Wild carrot was cultivated in Turkey, Spain, and North Africa for centuries.

Cabbage

When you look at a wild Cabbage plant, you may be surprised by how many edible vegetables were derived from it. Native peoples selectively cultivated the wild Cabbage over centuries to produce broccoli, cauliflower, kale, kohlrabi, and more. The wild form of the plant is also edible.

Garden asparagus

Garden asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a flowering plant species that undergoes photosynthesis in its stems and branchlets. Garden asparagus has a long history of cultivation for culinary and agricultural purposes. The ancient Greeks first cultivated this plant 2,500 years ago.

Lettuce

Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) is a hardy annual plant commonly cultivated as a leafy vegetable. The earliest evidence of its cultivation goes all the way back to Ancient Egypt. Its leaves are often used for making salads and they are an excellent source of vitamins K and A.

Winter squash

Cucurbita maxima, commonly known as Winter squash, is an annual, herbaceous plant native to South America. It is widely used for various culinary purposes. Winter squash has a lot of cultivars, which are very diverse in terms of fruit color, size, and shape. Pumpkin is the most popular cultivar of this plant.

Cucumber

Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) is a creeping vine native to South Asia. It has a long history of cultivation – mentions of its use are found in various ancient scripts, including the Bible, Epic of Gilgamesh and Pliny the Elder’s “Natural History”. Today, Cucumber is one of the most widely cultivated vegetable species in the world.

Potato

The Potato is native to North America and in the United States. Potato products are the second most consumed food. This starchy tuber is a staple in diets around the world and is considered the fourth most important worldwide crop.

Field pumpkin

Field pumpkin are most commonly seen as decorations throughout the autumn and during the Halloween holiday, when they are carved and used as traditional jack-o’-lanterns. While the taste of Field pumpkin flesh may not be ideal, eating the seeds after toasting them with a bit of salt can be a delicious treat!

Beat the Heat: Keys to Summer Gardening

Summertime heat can make gardening tough. Learn how to help you and your plants cope with the heat so that hot summer days don’t slow your gardening down.

Summer is an exciting time for gardeners: loads of blooms, fruits, vegetables, and the perfect weather for grilling, dipping in the pool and entertaining outdoors. While summer promises plenty of days spent outside enjoying your garden, it also means that you need to make adjustments to protect yourself and the garden from seasonal hazards.

Some special attention and preparation will help your garden survive peak temperatures, scorching hot sun, little rain, and damaging insects, and will keep you from getting burned out in the process. Fortunately, it doesn’t take much work to combat summer garden stressors, just a little strategy and know-how. The following tips will help you get your garden healthy, strong, and able to stand up to anything this summer throws at it.

Water Wisely

When the weather is hot and dry, it can be tempting to water your beds more frequently. Resist the urge! Watering plants shallowly too often can cause a host of problems, from weak roots to root rot and mildew. The best watering strategy is to water deeply twice a week so that the water penetrates deeply into the earth. This both encourages deep root growth and provides sufficient water for several days. Adding a layer of mulch to the surface of beds will help to retain soil moisture by keeping the soil surface cooler, preventing evaporation.

Potted plants are much harder to keep moist in the heat of summer. Move pots to areas with a little shade, or cluster potted plants together so that larger plants cast a bit of shade on the smaller plants beneath. You can also mulch potted plants with either a fine mulch, small stones, or gravel (aquarium gravel works especially well). Water both potted plants and planting beds in the morning, rather than in the evening, to make sure that the leaves dry off and are less susceptible to fungus and mildew. If a potted plant becomes too dry to absorb water easily, place the pot in a bucket full of water and let it soak for a couple of hours.

Nourish Plants Well

Summer is a stressful time for plants, but it is also a time of high growth. Fertilizing your garden a couple of times over the course of summer will help keep them healthy and strong. There are several ways to fertilize, including top-dressing beds with an inch of compost in the spring, broadcasting granulated fertilizer over the surface of your lawn and garden, and fertigating. Fertigation is a combination of fertilizing and irrigation, done by hand (adding liquid fertilizer to a watering can or using a hose attachment) or by adding fertilizer to an irrigation system. This method takes care of feeding and watering at the same time, and ensures that the vital nutrients your plants need are delivered directly to the roots.

Annuals and potted plants will benefit immensely from a foliar feeding routine with a bit of liquid seaweed fertilizer or fish emulsion. Seaweed in particular can revive plants that are suffering from heat stress and it can help to make plants more resilient to heat in the first place, preventing heat damage. Apply these treatments every couple of weeks to increase bloom size and frequency and to help plants beat the heat.

Get an Early Start

When summer is at its peak, the last thing you want to be doing at noon is working on your garden. It’s just as well that the best time to water is early in the day, too. Morning is the perfect time to assess your garden to make sure that all is well. Any drooping plants in need of water can get a nice, deep drink, and any leaves being attacked by aphids or other pests can be safely treated before the sun reaches its peak. Many plants will naturally droop in the hottest part of the day—it’s their way of conserving energy. Watering or treating leaves in the heat can burn leaves and damage plants, so avoid it at all costs!

Trim and Tidy

During the warmest months, all plants will go through a growth spurt, including weeds. Catch weeds and pull them when they are small and your plants will thank you—weeds steal the nutrients and water your plants need. While you’re at it, pinch away damaged, dead, or diseased growth on any of your plants to encourage strong, healthy growth. Summer is also an ideal time to shape shrubs or trees that are becoming bushy and unwieldy. Cutting off spent flowers, or deadheading, helps your plants direct their energy towards growing more blooms and will ensure a longer-lasting flowering season. Last but certainly not least, pinching herbs (and some ornamental plants) encourages strong, bushy growth. Pinch right above the join where two leaves come together, and two stems usually grow back to replace the one.

Protect From Pests

Everyone loves to hang out in the garden during summertime, including uninvited pests. Morning is the best time to garden in summer for many reasons, but one of the top ones is that early morning is the perfect time to catch insect pests off-guard. During a morning inspection, look at the undersides of leaves to check for pests. Aphids and insect eggs can be crushed by hand or sprayed with a little soapy water. The sooner you treat pests, the healthier your garden will be.

Care for Yourself

Gardening in the summer can be hard on you, too. If you must work in the garden past morning, wear sunscreen or a long-sleeved shirt and a hat. Even on an overcast day, it’s far too easy to get sunburned while you’re busy focusing on gardening. Drink plenty of water, and listen to your body so that you don’t get overheated. Getting an early start means that by noon, you’ll be ready to pull up a lawn chair in the shade, kick back, and enjoy the garden you’ve worked so hard for.

How to Get Rid of Snails and Slugs in the Garden

How to Get Rid Of Snails and Slugs in the Garden

Snails and slugs can ravage your garden and turn your precious plants into spindly sticks almost overnight. To protect your plants, it’s important to get rid of these pests as soon as you spot them.

Infestations of snails or slugs can be devastating for gardeners. Depending on where one lives, both slugs and snails can become a nuisance as they dine on garden plants, causing unsightly holes in foliage, stems and roots. Essentially both are considered mollusks, and since they can multiply quickly by laying eggs, they can overpopulate a garden within a single growing season.

Snails and slugs eat organic matter. Sadly for gardeners, they enjoy both living plants and decaying plants. They tend to be attracted toward plants with thick or succulent leaves and dine on fruit such as tomatoes and strawberries.

Like deer or rabbits, snails and slugs often make the top ten lists of garden pests. While there are dozens of home remedies and myths about eliminating them from our gardens, the truth is that the best if not only way to reduce their damage is to stop them before they do any serious destruction. Keep reading for a few proven methods to try.

Bait and Lures

Organic Chemical Baits

Iron Phosphate Pellets – Often sold as Slug Bait, Iron Phosphate pellets are organic work but only to a point. While safe to use around children and pets, the pellets can take seven days to a few weeks to kill a slug or snail after one consumes it. Some brands of these pellets contain other ingredients such as a weak insecticide like Spinosad, but it is added not to kill slugs or snails but to affect other garden pests that are insects.

Ferric Sodium – The products that contain Ferric Sodium work in much the same way that Iron Phosphate does, but Ferric Sodium it isn’t considered quite organic by many countries. However, Ferric Sodium kills these pests slightly quicker, in about half the time than Iron Phosphate (4-6 days).

Inorganic Chemical Baits

Products that contain metaldehyde are proven to work, often killing both snails and slugs within a few hours, but they are not organic and are toxic if not poisonous if ingested. Use caution around children and pets if you choose to use such baits. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s directions carefully as when and how you use them greatly affects their efficacy. Typically such baits are set out near evening when slugs and snails are more active, and they work best during hot and dry weather, not when temperatures are cold or in heavy rain.

Natural Methods of Elimination

Eliminating Conditions, they Love – Snails and slugs need places to hide and love the undersides of boards, stones, and large flower pots that sit on the ground. While eliminating every hiding plant is impossible, reducing such places as shelters is generally a good first step.

Tape Barriers – Many people insist that barriers that snails and slugs don’t like are an effective way to keep them off of plants, but proceed carefully as copper tape (which presumably emits a low electrical charge that these pests don’t like) can work against you. Copper tape placed around a raised bed might achieve just the opposite effect – trapping the pests within the bed and not outside of it. Also, each plant will need a barrier which is often unpractical. Under the right, controlled conditions, however, copper bands do work.

Other barriers – Clever systems also work, but aren’t always practical. Setting a potted plant elevated above a pan of water will also work, as slugs and snails cannot swim. This may only be useful if you have just a few potted plants, however.

Pans of Beer – While beer baits are a famous trick, the truth is that they do work – to a point. A pie plate with beer poured in it will often attract slugs due to the yeasty scent, but catching a handful of snails or slugs in a garden is often not that effective, and the pans can attract other pests.

Diatomaceous Earth – The use of diatomaceous earth (microscopically sharp natural product) is effective, its use might be impractical for many as bands must be comprised of a totally dry medium and applied at least 1 -3 inched high around a plant. Once damp or wet, the medium loses its effectiveness.

Hand Picking – As disgusting as it may be, many gardeners know that hand-picking slugs and snails and destroying them is often very effective. Wear latex gloves and head out into the garden at night with a flashlight for the greatest success. Drop the victims into a bucket of soapy water and then dispose of them.Plants that Deter or Repel them

New Biological Controls – New studies are finding that a new predatory snail known as Decollate Snail (Rumina decollata) in known to effectively control some snails species on farms and in orchards. However, its use is still under scrutiny as it can affect native snail populations. Always check with local officials to see if you live in such an area.

Methods that Don’t work – Some myths and methods popular on social media in eliminating slugs and snails have little to no data behind their efficacy. These include the use of Crushed Eggshells Coffee Grounds and no plants proven to repel them.