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Plant Vegetables: Do the Planning First

The best gardeners put in plenty of work before planting season even begins. Learn what it takes to plan out your garden, from choosing the best seed varieties to deciding on a garden style and setting up a planting schedule.

When it comes to having a successful garden, much of the hard work needs to happen before the growing season even starts. If you don’t have a plan in place for what you want to grow, you might find yourself with the wrong kinds of plants and possibly overwhelmed with weeds in the middle of the summer.

Here’s a guide for planning out your vegetable garden to ensure you start the season out right.

How to Choose Seeds

Your first task when planning a vegetable garden is deciding what to grow.

Plant nurseries and seed catalogs contain more varieties than you could master in decades, so it’s important to practice restraint and make practical choices. In fact, the most common mistake beginning gardeners make is trying to grow too much at once. Every plant has different needs, so committing to more than you can maintain can ruin your enthusiasm before the season’s half over.

Keep yourself from getting overwhelmed by growing six or fewer varieties your first year and adding up to three more every growing season after.

What should you plant? That depends on what you want to eat. Tomatoes are a popular choice because they are relatively easy to grow, come in hundreds of varieties, and are versatile for canning and cooking. Besides, once you taste a home-grown tomato, you’ll never want to return to storebought.

Salad lovers should consider growing various greens, while those with more space may enjoy mastering melons and winter squash. Pay attention to the characteristics and growing requirements for every variety to make sure it fits your garden conditions.

This is also the time to calculate how many plants you need. Think through how much your family will eat over the summer, how much you would freeze or preserve, and how much you want to give away, and plan how much you plant accordingly.

How to Make a Garden Planting Plan

Next, it’s time to determine how you will set up your garden. Popular strategies include row cropping, planting in raised beds, and setting up a small-space container garden.

Row Cropping

The traditional method is to plant each vegetable in rows approximately four feet (1.2m) wide. This provides plenty of space for each plant while still making it possible to reach across the whole bed for weeding.

Raised Beds

Raised beds make it possible to start your garden from scratch. You build or buy a structure, add a quality growing mix, and plant directly into this new soil. Gardeners love raised beds because they make it possible to grow lots of plants in small spaces, and they raise the soil height so you aren’t bending over to nurture the plants.

Container Gardening

For those low on space or who need to keep their garden portable, growing plants in containers is a surprisingly productive way to produce food. Many plants like tomatoes thrive in containers, meaning you can maximize any unused corner of your yard for gardening.

How to Set Up a Summer Planting Guide

Now that you’ve decided on the varieties and gardening style, it’s time to plan where each plant will go. Again, this stage takes careful planning for the best results. Here are the steps to follow to determine what to plant where in your garden space.

1. Sketch Out Your Garden Area

First, make a blueprint of your total growing space, adding dimensions where you can. You can do this by hand on graph paper or a computer if you want a reusable template.

2. Pay Attention to Spacing Needs

Next, look at the spacing requirements for each plant variety and write those down. This gives you a sense of how much of each plant type would fit in each part of the garden so you can optimize it for what you most want to grow.

3. Add Your Top Priority Crops

It’s now time to add plants to your sketch. Start with the crops you care most about to ensure you have enough space for them. You’ll fill in the other varieties around these top priorities.

4. Give Space to Vertical and Vining Crops

Next, plan for the crops that have special requirements. For example, squash plants start small but quickly can take over a square meter or more in trailing vines, and cucumbers and pole beans do best with sturdy trellising. Factor these spacing elements into the garden to keep things organized.

5. Plan for Crop Rotation and Succession

As your garden progresses over the growing season, you’ll start pulling out one-time producers like heads of lettuce and carrots as you eat them. This leaves space for new plants, so plan out what your next growing round will be, so you use the space efficiently all summer.

A Note on Plant Spacing

Many beginning gardeners make the mistake of attempting to cram too many plants in one garden bed. Plants start small, so it’s tempting to pack them in tight to maximize the harvest. However, this strategy only harms your garden in the long run.

As the plants grow, they will start competing with each other for soil nutrients and sunlight. The result may be a garden bed of mediocre plants rather than a few standout super-producers. In short, resist the urge to overcrowd and give each plant the space necessary to thrive.

Eager as you might be to start digging in the dirt immediately, a well-planned garden is the best way to get results. Take the time to plan your garden in advance, and you’ll reap the rewards all summer long.

17 Easy Annual Flowers that You Can Grow from Seeds

17 Easy Annual Flowers That You Can Grow From Seeds

What could be more natural than pushing a seed into the earth, or scattering a handful across the ground? And yet, we all know the disappointment that can come from planting seeds only to find nothing happening. Don’t let this turn you off from trying again! The species on this list are all known to do well when started from seed.

Pot marigold

The Pot marigold is a herbaceous perennial plant often recognized by its thick, orange-yellow blooms with numerous petals. Flowers of the Pot marigold have a long history of table use. They are often served in salads or as a decoration. The flowers can also be made into a similarly-colored dye for foods, textiles, or cosmetic products.

Cornflower

Centaurea cyanus is known by several names, like cornflower and bachelor’s button. This flower has a beautiful blue color that was a favorite of famed Dutch painter Johannes Vermeer. Today it is a Crayola crayon color as well as an HTML color name. The color is defined as a medium to light blue that contains very little green.

Garden cosmos

Garden cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus) is a herbaceous annual plant often cultivated as an ornamental in temperate regions. Due to its self-sowing ability, Garden cosmos can grow on the same spot for several years, even though it is an annual. Not surprisingly, this quality also made it an invasive species in certain areas of the world.

Sulfur cosmos

Sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus) is an annual flowering plant native to Mexico, Central America, and South America. Though widely used as an ornamental plant, Sulfur cosmos is considered an invasive species in the United States. It attracts bees and butterflies, including the notable monarch butterfly.

Common sunflower

The Common sunflower is recognizable for its bright flower on a very tall stem. It is often grown in gardens. These flowers have been important in culture: they were worshipped by the ancient Inca people, and today, they represent eco-friendly movements. The artist Vincent Van Gogh made a famous series of paintings about Common sunflower s. Wild versions of the plant branch out to many flower heads, but domesticated plants typically only have one.

Impatiens

Impatiens (Impatiens walleriana) is flowering herbaceous plant native to Eastern Africa. Its vividly colored, elegant flowers have made it one of the most popular ornamental plants in the world. Impatiens is often used as a bedding plant in parks and gardens worldwide.

Common morning-glory

Common morning-glory natives in Mexico and Central America and is commonly planted as an ornamental plant prized for its colorful trumpet-shaped flowers. It is naturalized in temperate and subtropical areas globally and in many places, always grown weedy and is considered to be invasive in many parts of the world.

Hyacinth bean

Hyacinth bean (Lablab purpureus) is a bean plant native to the tropics of Africa. Its beans are consumed as a food and it is also referred to as the butter bean or the poor man’s bean. Young pods are consumed widely as a vegetable in Asia. If not properly cooked, Hyacinth bean is toxic.

Sweet pea

Sweet pea is a staple of flowering climbers and has been since the Victorian era. The Sweet pea, which uses tendrils to climb when correct supports are available, grows to a height of 40 in 80 in. The highly fragrant flowers are purple when found in the wild, but domesticated cultivars can be found in nearly every color.

Flax

Flax (Linum usitatissimum) is a slender, straight, and narrow-leafed annual that produces sky-blue flowers in June and July. After blooming, each flower produces a seed pod of 4 to 10 seeds. Flax is cultivated for its fiber, linseed oil, and edible seeds. It prefers full sun and cool weather and will grow from 2 to 3 feet tall.

Sweet alyssum

Lobularia maritima, commonly known as Sweet alyssum, is an annual flowering plant that grows very low and has a tendency to spread its branches over the soil, creating a mat. That is why this lovely ornamental is an excellent choice for a groundcover or a bedding plant.

Common poppy

The Common poppy (Papaver rhoeas) is an annual flower that carries great symbolism in many cultures. During World War One, the Common poppy could be found blooming between trenches in France and Belgium; afterwards, it became an international symbol of fallen soldiers. This poppy does not produce opium.

Mexican marigold

Mexican marigold is a common garden plant with bright orange or red flowers. Its use in decorative and ceremonial gardens dates back to ancient Aztec civilizations. Not only does Mexican marigold add bright colors, but it is also known to repel insects, rabbits, and deer thanks to its toxic latex.

Nasturtium

The Nasturtium is often associated with the “Elizabeth Linnaeus Phenomenon”, an optical illusion that makes the contrasting orange flowers and green foliage appear to flash brightly as it shakes in the wind. Nasturtium is cultivated as an ornamental plant. The disc-shaped leaves and seed pods are edible, usually getting used as garnishes and dressings.

Common zinnia

The Common zinnia is a popular garden plant. It thrives in relatively dry conditions with good airflow. Garden varieties come in many colors, usually having been hybridized from different wild varieties. Common zinnias are considered an allergy-safe pollen-producing flower.

Rocky mountain zinnia

Rocky mountain zinnia (Zinnia grandiflora) is a small subshrub that can grow to be 22 cm tall. Rocky mountain zinnia is native to the southwestern United States, the southern central United States, and Mexico. This species was traditionally used by the Zuni people in spiritual ceremonies.

Love-in-a-mist

Love-in-a-mist is a member of the buttercup family with leaves that resemble those of the dill plant. The flowers, which bloom in early summer, sport tiny black seeds at their centers. Love-in-a-mist seeds get added to bread in some Middle-Eastern countries with a flavor like oregano or nutmeg. But note that it could be toxic if ingested in quantities.

Time to Remove Weeds! What You Need to Know

Letting weeds get out of control is a common mistake for beginning gardeners. Learn why you need to remove them, the best time of year to weed your garden and the right tools to make the process easy.

By the time the weather starts to warm, your plants should be growing great. Unfortunately, so will the weeds. Once the days get longer and the weather heats up, it’s time to get garden weeds under control so they don’t overwhelm your flower beds and choke out your plants.

Removing weeds may feel overwhelming when you begin. But, take the time to do this garden task well the first time, and you can keep the weeds in check and reap the rewards of your hard work for the rest of the summer.

Here’s what to know before getting started.

Why Remove Weeds from the Garden

Most plant lovers agree that weeds are a constant nuisance. Every square inch of garden space contains weed seeds lying in wait for the right conditions to sprout.

If you disturb the top few inches of soil, you’ll bring these weeds to the surface and spring them into action. Within a few weeks, they will sprout into an eruption of unwanted seedlings that crowd out your plants.

At first glance, these tiny weeds might not seem like a significant concern. They start small and barely take up space in your garden bed. But, give them time to get established, and they will outcompete everything you’ve planted. That’s because weeds have evolved to thrive in almost any growing condition and need very little to thrive.

So, if your garden is subject to cold, excess heat, drought conditions, or other growing complications, chances are your plants will suffer, but you will still grow a healthy crop of weeds.

When to Remove Weeds

The ideal time to get rid of weeds in the garden is when they are large enough to grasp but too small to hurt your plants. For most species, this is when they are between 1-6 inches tall (2.5-15 cm).

Don’t wait until the weeds tower over your plants, as they will shade them out and siphon away water and nutrients, so they end up stunted.

Strategies for Removing Weeds

The best way to remove weeds depends on the setup of your garden. Follow these instructions based on your growing conditions.

In Raised Beds

Raised beds tend to have fewer weeds than other gardening systems because the growing medium isn’t in direct contact with the ground where weed seeds dwell. Likewise, the potting soil typically used to fill them is usually sterile and weed seed free.

Remove weeds by hand whenever you see them to keep the bed clean. Take care to grab each weed by the base around the ground line and pull up slowly so that the roots come free of the soil without snapping off.

Consider using hand tools like a claw rake or hook neck weeder to make this easier. Digging knives like a hori-hori will help to dislodge stubborn roots.

In Garden Rows

While it’s possible to weed large garden rows on your hands and knees, you will save time and your back by using cultivation tools instead. Consider the following:

Garden hoe: This traditional tool has a long handle and angled metal blade for slicing weeds at soil level to shear them from their roots to stop them from sprouting.
Stirrup hoe (hula hoe): Stirrup hoes have an oscillating blade that shuffles through the soil when you use it along a garden bed, making it ideal for removing delicate weeds in loose soil.
Tine weeding rake: This tool has long tines that can fit around plants to remove weeds just as they emerge from the soil.
Flame Weeder: Similar to a blow torch, this tool lets you direct scorching heat at tiny weeds to kill them quickly.

In Mulched Beds

Weeds that sprout in mulched beds tend to have strong taproots because they needed to work harder to break through the woody material and reach the sunlight. Make sure you pull the entire root out of the ground by pushing the mulch temporarily aside, grabbing the weed by the base, and pulling upwards. If the root doesn’t budge, use a hand fork to loosen the soil around the stem.

You can save your knees by getting a foam gardening mat to kneel on.

11 Ways to Prevent Weeds for the Long Term

Removing garden weeds is a constant challenge, but taking these steps can reduce their spread so you can more easily stay on top of them.

Disturb the soil as little as possible to minimize bringing weed seeds to the surface.
Add two inches (5 centimeters) of mulch over the bare soil to deprive weed seeds of light and reduce the chance they germinate.
Use landscaping fabric when establishing new garden beds to “bury” weed seeds below it and prevent them from getting access to light. Cut a small hole in the material for every new plant you add.
Weed only after a rain or when the soil is wet as the roots will more easily come out of the ground.
Always weed before the plants have formed seed heads, so you don’t scatter the seeds through the soil as you remove them. If you’re pressed for time, cut off the weed’s flower heads as they form so the plant won’t produce seeds. You can then remove the roots and stem when convenient.
Weed each bed thoroughly so small weeds aren’t left behind.
Never use weeds in your compost, as you may accidentally introduce a new generation of weed seeds into your garden beds when you use it.
Avoid overfertilizing and only add fertilizer once the bed is weed-free, so you don’t nourish the weeds by mistake.
Plant a ground cover over your garden bed to cover bare soil and minimize space for weed seeds to sprout.
Use drip irrigation to target your watering and avoid watering weed seeds.
Keep the area surrounding your garden mowed and weed-free to prevent weed seeds from blowing over from neighboring plants.

If you want fast results without putting in manual labor, consider spraying a foliar herbicide over your garden bed to kill off weeds quickly. They should brown and die within a day or two. However, most of these sprays will kill every plant they touch, so use them carefully and only as a last resort.

How to Prune Spring Flowering Shrubs

Pruning your spring flowering shrubs will reward you with lush new growth and a lot more flowers next year. Many shrubs will only flower on new wood. It’s important to encourage this new growth.

Spring flowering shrubs kick off the gardening season with spectacular displays of flowers. Lilacs (Syringa sp.), mock orange (Philadelphus sp.), and forsythia are often considered beloved old-fashioned shrubs that can live for generations. Over time, however, the quality and quantity of bloom can decrease as plants grow too woody and mature. This guide will explain how to prune and maintain these beloved spring shrubs to ensure loads of flowers to enjoy for years.

Why Prune Your Flowering Shrubs?

Flowering shrubs, such as lilacs, mock orange, and forsythia, are all woody plants that bloom best on what horticulturists call ‘new wood.’ Generally, quick-growing shrubs will produce too much old wood or become over-run with suckers, and eventually will not bloom. Hard pruning is in order, but few gardeners will want to cut the shrub entirely to the ground.

Professional horticulturists practice a method called the ‘One-Third Rule,’ which involves removing one-third of the oldest branches every spring at ground level. This method ensures a continuous renewal of branches that will produce flowers in abundance.

When to Prune Flowering Shrubs.

Timing is everything, especially with spring-blooming shrubs. The window is small, between just after flowering and 2 or 3 weeks after. One should remember that the plant’s entire annual growth will happen in a month or two after flowering.

Never prune spring-flowering shrubs in mid to late summer, fall, or winter. Pruning must be done in early spring or immediately after they bloom to ensure that the shrub can produce flower buds for the following year. This applies to deciduous shrubs such as lilacs, mock orange, spirea, most woody roses (Rosa sp.), forsythia, deutzia, honeysuckle (Lonicera sp.), butterfly bush (Buddleja sp.), and weigela.

Pruning is very beneficial to some hydrangeas, though not all (see below). Furthermore, pruning should be avoided on evergreen shrubs such as rhododendron, camellia, and even deciduous azaleas as they will not benefit from such treatment.

How to Prune Flowering Shrubs.

There are multiple goals when it comes to pruning deciduous blooming shrubs. First, remove any dead or damaged wood. This could include branches that cross over each other or simply branches that have died or look too old. Second, pruning should allow air and light to reach through the entire shrub while being aesthetically pleasing. A common mistake is to try and shape such shrubs into a topiary, a standard, or a ball. Most blooming shrubs don’t comply, given their natural upright or vase-shaped habit, which one should encourage.

Remove one-third of the oldest branches to near ground level and any suckers. Avoid reducing the rest of the shrubs’ established stems that may impact future flower buds. Younger shrubs may benefit from just reducing the current years’ growth (such as with lilacs). In this case, cut just above a pair of leaves, as this is where flower buds will form and eventually stems next year.

What About Hydrangeas?

The trick to pruning hydrangeas is demystify them first. Common names and groups abound, if you don’t know the difference between a smooth hydrangea and a bigleaf hydrangea, a few tips will help.

First, research the species if you know what it is. Hydrangea macrophylla (commonly referred to as a ‘bigleaf hydrangea’) blooms on old wood and should only be carefully pruned to remove dead growth every spring. If you live in a mild climate and your hydrangea has colorful flowers, blue mop heads, or bright pink flowers, you probably have H. macrophylla. These hydrangeas often suffer in severe winter conditions.

On the other hand, if your hydrangea has large white flowers with big leaves, it’s probably H. arborescens. The names are familiar: ‘Incrediball’, ‘Annabelle’, ‘Little Lime’. These flowers don’t blush to pink but usually turn lime green through late summer and eventually buff-colored in fall. All H. arborescens must be pruned hard every spring to 6 inches above the ground. This will stimulate the strongest and most robust branches and the largest flowers. If you skip pruning them for a year, the flower will be smaller but still abundant.

The third group of common hydrangeas is often called tree hydrangeas: H. paniculata. The leaves are pointed at the tips, and the cone-shaped flower heads generally emerge completely white but age with a blush of pink or mauve tint. These can be trained to a tree form (a standard) or as a shrub. The cultivar names too are familiar (‘Pinky Winky,’ ‘Pee Gee,’ or ‘Limelight’). All H. paniculata bloom on new wood, so pruning is encouraged. Hard pruning will result in longer stems with flowers great for cutting. Light pruning (or none at all) will result in shorter stems and smaller flower heads.

Other hydrangeas, such as oakleaf and lacecap, require slightly different care. Oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia) blooms only on old wood, so prune carefully just after bloom and only if needed. Lacecap types can be either H. macrophylla or H. arborescens, so you may need to do some research to identify what species you have. Hydrangea macrophylla ssp. serrata tends to be slightly more hardy in the north, blooming from previous buds in pink and blue. Flowering may be sporadic in cold climates, so prune only when winter-kill is present.

However, some cultivars of H. arborescens produce lacecap flowers, which should be pruned hard every spring before their buds break. This includes the summer blooming cultivar ‘Haas Halo,’ which can produce lace-cap flowers up to 14″ in diameter after a hard pruning nearly to the ground every late winter.

Best Tools for Pruning Flowering Shrubs

Hand Pruners- Hand-held pruning sheers or secateurs are best for the cleanest cuts. Look for brands that cut with a blade (known as bi-pass pruners) as they will produce the cleanest cut. Clean cuts are easier to make and reduce stress and damage to the shrub.

Loppers – Long-handled loppers (the kind that requires two hands to use) are essential for larger branches.

Saw – A shard pruning saw is often necessary for old or dead branches with a diameter of 2″ or more. Dead wood is often more challenging to cut with lopper or pruners.

15 Perennial Plants That Bloom in Early Springtime

After the long winter months, we all want a pop of color to liven up our outdoor spaces! As soon as spring shows its face, you can count on these spectacular and rather hardy plants to bloom and brighten up your garden.

Virginia bluebells

Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica) is native to eastern North America. However, it’s being increasingly threatened in its original environment by both destruction of habitat and the obstruction of natural river flooding. It has nearly hollow stems, so they’re fragile and break easily. Flowers start off pink, and then gradually turn light blue.

Smooth solomons-seal

Smooth solomons-seal (Polygonatum biflorum) has scars on its rhizome (an underground stem) that look like ancient Hebrew writing – thus the name that references the Hebrew King Solomon. It produces small white bell-shaped flowers in spring and blue-purple berries afterwards. Care must be taken since the berries are poisonous to human.

Common lungwort

Common lungwort is an evergreen perennial, and “Pulmoa” from its genus name means “lung” in Latin. If you look closely, you’ll see that the Common lungwort’s leaves have the appearance of a somewhat unhealthy lung. The unique flowers of Common lungwort are red at first and change to blue as the pH of the plant changes.

Moss phlox

Moss phlox (Phlox subulata) is a flowering plant native to the United States. The Latin name Phlox subulata means needle-shaped, which describes its leaves. Moss phlox is sometimes confused with marijuana due to its similar smell.

Lenten rose

The Lenten rose has been cultivated since the Germans began to do so in the mid-1800s, with varieties being created in the United Kingdom shortly after. Between the 1920s and 1960s, there was little interest in its cultivation until Helen Ballard bred new varieties. They blooming early in the year hence they get their name of Lenten rose.

Primrose

Primrose is a welcome sight in an early spring landscape. The vibrant colors of the flowers and a light, delicate scent make the Primrose a favorite. This plant provides vibrant color to any container or flowerbed, with hues available in yellow, pink, purple, blue, orange, red, white and bi-color.

Bleeding heart

Bleeding heart is a highly valued flowering plant belonging to the poppy family. The flowers are a conventional heart shape, which explains its name, with a small droplet that falls just beneath the flower. The seeds contain elaiosome, a popular food source for ants. They take the seeds to their anthills, aiding in seed dispersal.

Heartleaf bergenia

Heartleaf bergenia (Bergenia crassifolia) is a plant species that is tolerant to cold and warm climates. This species has leaves that change color and range from rust brown to brown-red. Heartleaf bergenia leaves are used to make tea in Siberia. Its latin name Bergenia crassifolia means thick-leaved.

Siberian bugloss

Siberian bugloss (Brunnera macrophylla) is a flowering plant native to the Caucasus. Siberian bugloss is also known as the forget-me-not. The latin name Brunnera macrophylla means large leaves.

Bloodroot

Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis) is a plant species native to eastern North America. In the wild its early spring blooms can be seen spreading across the forest floor or along riverbanks. Its common name comes from its reddish orange-sap, which can be made into a dye. Bloodroot seeds are often spread by ants who take them back to their nests.

Common periwinkle

Common periwinkle (Vinca minor) is a trailing evergreen subshrub that forms large, dense colonies. Because of this quality, Common periwinkle is commonly used in landscaping as a groundcover. It is a mildly toxic plant, but due to its pungent taste, it rarely gets ingested in amounts significant enough to cause toxic effects.

Snowdrop

A herald of spring, the Snowdrop grows up to around 7-15 cm tall. Sprouting from bulbs, the drooping bell-shaped white flowers are accompanied by two slender, erect leaves. These flowers have been noted throughout history, with references going as far back as the fourth century.

Wild daffodil

Wild daffodil (Narcissus pseudonarcissus) is a perennial flower that grows from bulbs. It is a common ornamental plant, famous for its pale-yellow flowers with a bright-yellow central trumpet. In the wild, Narcissus pseudonarcissus can be found in forests, grasslands, and rocky terrains. Its bulbs and leaves are poisonous when ingested.

Siberian squill

Siberian squill (Scilla siberica) belongs to the lily family. Its common name is a misnomer, since it’s not native to Siberia. Siberian squill originated in other parts of Russia. It’s a plant that’s been cultivated since 1796 and grows best in partial sunlight.

Dutch crocus

Dutch crocus (Crocus vernus) is an early spring blooming bulb with large flowers that range in color from yellow, white, and purple to striped or bronze. The plant grows 4 to 6 inches tall in full sun or partial shade. Makes a colorful display when planted under trees, in rock gardens, or in flower beds.

Why Pollinators Are Essential for Your Garden

Why Pollinators Are Essential For Your Garden

Did you know that without pollinators like bees in our garden, we would not have fruiting crops such as tomatoes, peppers, apples and pears? You see, these amazing little insects help to move pollen from flower to flower and this initiates fruiting. Find out how.

Did you know that without pollinators in your garden, many of the vegetables that you grow would not produce fruit or seeds that you can save and use for the next crop? This is because pollinators, such as bees, help to fertilize the flowers that will eventually produce the fruit.

We grow a large variety of vegetables in our home gardens that actually produce fruit that we can consume. These include tomatoes, eggplants, zucchinis or summer squash, cucumbers, sweet corn, peppers, pumpkins, peas and beans. Many fruits such as apples, pears, peaches and melons also require pollination.

In fact, there are many fruit trees that need to be pollinated by a different variety of the same fruit. For example, apples and avocados need to be cross-pollinated from flowers of a tree that produces a different variety of the same fruit.

But, for these plants to produce fruit, the flowers have to be fertilized. This involves transferring pollen from one flower to another. Or, it can mean just the transfer of pollen from the anthers to the stigma on the same flower. Each grain of pollen will produce a fine tendril that will grow down the style and into the ovary of the flower. This is where fertilization then occurs.

Therefore, without pollination, most fruit producing plants cannot be fertilized and, hence, they won’t produce any fruit.

What Are the Most Common Pollinators?

You guessed it! Bees are the most common and efficient pollinators that we all know. They fly from flower to flower to gather nectar to make honey. As they visit each flower, their tiny legs inadvertently collect the pollen. This pollen is then deposited on the next flower that the bee visits. Isn’t nature wonderful?

Besides bees, there are many other insects that help to pollinate our plants.

Hoverflies

Hoverflies are small flies with yellow bands on their black bodies. You may have noticed these hovering above your plants before quickly darting off to another flower.

Like bees, hoverflies collect the nectar from flowers and the pollen sticks to their bodies. This pollen is then deposited on the next flower that they visit.

Butterflies

Butterflies are also nectar feeders. Like bees and hoverflies, they collect the pollen on their bodies and then drop it onto another flower as they move around.

Moths

Some moths are also nectar gatherers and will spread pollen from one flower to an adjacent one.

Hummingbirds

As you may be aware, hummingbirds love nectar and they consume copious amounts of it on a daily basis. So, if you’re lucky enough to have hummingbirds visit your garden, you can be assured that they’re busy pollinating many of your plants.

How Pollination Works

Some plants have both male and female flowers. These include pumpkins and summer squash. To produce fruit, the pollen from the male flowers must be deposited onto the stigma on the female flower.

Once this occurs, fertilization begins. Generally, the ovary of the female flower will start to swell and eventually develop into a full grown fruit. This fruit contains the seeds that can be collected to plant the next crop.

Other plants have flowers that are self-fertile. This means that the anthers containing the pollen and the stigma are produced on the same flower. However, the pollen still needs to be moved from the anther to the stigma for fertilization to occur.

There are other factors that can contribute to pollination such as the wind or people and animals brushing past the plants which aids in the transfer of pollen. Additionally, bats and birds can also help with the pollinating process.

However, the most common method of pollination is through the aid of nectar-gathering insects.

How to Attract Pollinators to Your Garden

The best way to attract pollinators to your garden is to plant the flowers that commonly attract them. This is one of the reasons that many gardeners also plant flowers in their veggie patch.

So, what flowers are pollinators attracted to? Different pollinators are attracted to specific colors. But, most importantly, the flowers that you plant should be rich in nectar.

Here are a few suggestions.

Flowers to Attract Bees

Most bees are attracted to blue, white and yellow flowers. Therefore, you should consider planting lavender, daisies, calendulas, basil and mint. Allow some of the basil and mint plants to flower so that they will attract the bees.

Flowers to Attract Hoverflies

Hoverflies don’t have tongues to collect nectar with. Therefore, they need flowers that are open and easily accessible. Popular flowers to attract hoverflies include fennel, dahlias, autumn asters, marigolds, apple blossoms, calendulas and sweet alyssum.

Flowers to Attract Butterflies

Butterflies are attracted to many different nectar-rich flowers. These include marigolds, nasturtiums, calendulas, sage, daisies, oregano, phlox and buddleia (butterfly bush).

Practices to Avoid

If you want to attract pollinators to your garden, and you should, avoid using insecticides. Most insecticides will not only kill the harmful insects but they’ll also kill beneficial ones.

It’s far better to attract beneficial insects to your garden and create an ecosystem where nature helps you to produce a lovely crop. Consider hoverflies, for instance. They’re not only useful pollinators but their larva also feeds on aphids.

Final Thoughts

Attracting pollinators to your garden is vitally important if you want your fruits and vegetables to produce a healthy harvest. Bees, butterflies, hoverflies and hummingbirds help to spread pollen from one flower to another to stimulate the fertilization process.

Without pollinators, your plants would not produce any fruits. Plus, as fruits also contain seeds, there will be no seeds to plant another crop. In fact, if there were no pollinators left on the planet, all the plants would eventually die out.

So, now you understand why it’s so important to attract and protect the pollinators that visit your garden. Most importantly, avoid using insecticides if you can, so that these beneficial insects are protected.

It’s also important to plant lots of nectar-rich flowers around your garden to attract these beneficial insects. You can plant flowers within your veggie patch or as a border around the edge.

This way, you’ll be assured of a bumper crop of deliciously fresh vegetables and fruits.

Transplanting Seedlings into the Garden

Transplanting Seedlings Into the Garden

Many home-grown plants get their starts in seedling modules or planters. They have to be carefully transplanted into the garden itself before they reach their full potential. Let’s have a look at how to do that!

Whether your seedlings were raised indoors, in a greenhouse, or outside, they will each eventually need to be moved to a flowerbed, container, or vegetable garden. While this isn’t a difficult task, taking the time to learn a few tips will always improve your results.

Prepare the Bed for the Seedlings

The hard work of preparing the vegetable bed should be completed before the delicate new plants arrive. Turn, till, or loosen the soil and mix in any necessary amendments such as limestone or compost. Lay down boards on which to walk to avoid compacting the soil, and make sure you have water and mulch ready. If you use plant labels, prepare them too, along with a pencil, markers, stakes, and twine. If your plants will need pest-protection measures such as floating row covers or a wire cloche, prepare those ahead of time as well.

Research

Knowing your plants’ root sensitivity will be important to your success. Roots on young plants are generally tender and break easily, but some are more sensitive than others. Most annual and perennial seedlings are resilient and can handle light root damage, but others are not so forgiving. Those with taproots like poppies, larkspurs, and carrots resent any root disturbance. If a seed packet description advises you to ‘direct sow then thin seedlings,’ there’s a good chance the species doesn’t like transplantation.

Spacing

Before removing the seedlings, lay your individual pots out where you intend to plant them. Measure out the spacing. Proper spacing often looks wider than you imagine, but the extra room will result in healthier plants. Space rows out in a similar manner.

Even cabbage and broccoli appreciate wide spacing and will reward you with bigger harvests. Flowers can often be planted closer together, but again, it depends on what you’re trying to achieve. In a flower border, larger groupings are often more effective, especially if you arrange dozens of individual plants.

Extract Your Seedlings

While direct-sow-only flowers can be carefully pre-started in modules and plug trays, it does take some skill and experience to master the transplanting technique. One or two seeds per pot will result in a single plant, and it’s critical to carefully extract the entire root ball without disturbing the roots. When in doubt, always tip a young plant out of its cell by tapping on the bottom or by using a butter knife or flat tool along the edge of the pot to help extract the soil ball in its entirety. It is much like trying to take a cake out of its pan. Many direct-sow-only plants can be transplanted into the garden using this method.

Seed modules are rather foolproof. Moving seedlings from a seedbed, however, can be trickier. Start by lifting small seedlings out carefully with a trowel or even a kitchen fork or teaspoon. Keep an empty seed tray nearby so you have a place to put them – it is easier to transport many seedlings laying on their sides. Separate plants carefully and try to do it as quickly as possible to limit the roots’ exposure to outside elements.

Tend Your Plants

In the case of most young flower plants, it’s good to pinch or prune them once they are set out in the garden. The likes of snapdragons, sweetpeas, or zinnias all benefit from pinching just as they form their third pair of leaves. Estate growers and flower farmers nearly always pinch the primary growing tip on their young seedlings if they want bushier plants and many blooms.

If, on the other hand, the goal is taller stems and longer stalks, seedlings should be set out in a grid and planted closer together. Even in a flower border, closer plants will achieve a completely different effect than those set further apart. A snapdragon left un-pinched may grow a single tall stalk of flowers, but that will come at the cost of future blooms. A pinched plant will produce shorter stalks but a bushier appearance with more flowers.

If possible, try to transplant either early in the morning, in the evening, or on overcast days. In this way, you will avoid the harshest of the sun’s heat and radiation, and it will reduce stress on your new plants.

Newly transplanted seedlings will need water right away. Keep a watering can ready even if it rained just the day before.

Plan for the End Goal

If your seedlings are intended for a cut flower garden, they can be placed closer together and set out in rows or grids to help produce long stems. Since you’ll be cutting stems in bulk, the garden’s visual effect isn’t as critical.

If planting flowers into a border or a flowerbed, design is more important. Spacing is key, especially if plants will be growing along with perennials or small shrubs and bulbs. Always consider the fully-grown size of neighboring plants, but also think about your final planting scheme. In a border, one can get much more imaginative as the flowers will need to deliver beauty over a longer time than those in a cut flower bed.

Plant intentionally, always visualizing the final effect. If integrating flower seedlings into a mixed border with perennials, grasses, and small shrubs like roses, be creative, keeping in mind your intended final result.

Some flowers naturally grow in a scattered arrangement, the way they might if their seeds were dispersed in the wild. Matrix plantings are in vogue and appear more natural to the eye. The cloud-like effect of tall wands of flowers scattered randomly among long grasses adds an ethereal quality to your garden, and often can only be achieved by growing many plants at once.

Another planting style is to group solid colors together to create a bulk effect – as if 30 plants are actually all one. Such large swaths make stunning borders, especially if two or three types are repeated within the space. A more traditional method might be to plant 3-5 flowers together in smaller clumps between perennials and grasses. No matter what direction you choose, always plan ahead to be sure you have the space for such exuberance.

Starting seedlings in your home and transplanting them into the garden is a highly efficient way to grow many plants at once, often for less money than a single mature plant at the garden center. Take your time, plan it out, and give a transplant garden a try!

Lawncare 101: Planting and Maintenance

For a lush, green lawn in summer, there are certain maintenance tips that you need to consider. Follow our expert tips to get the best lawn on your street.

How to Plant a Lawn

Choose an Appropriate Lawn Seed

First, choose a proper type of grass seed for your climate. To do this, you need to decide on whether you want annual or perennial grass seed. Annual seed grows quickly and helps establish the lawn. Perennial seed will be more permanent yet grows slower. Both types are usually available in all climates and are often combined together in seed blends.

If you live where it snows or where the ground freezes in winter, you’re better off with a mix that contained bluegrass, ryegrass and fescue. In warm or tropical climates, turfgrass is typically Bermuda, Centipede, zoysia, or Bahia grass. Tropical or warm-climate grasses are perennial yet often turn brown in winter (temperatures lower than 40º F).

Clear and Prep Space.

Establishing turf grass requires a clear canvas for the best results. Eliminate weeds, rocks, and debris from the area and amend the soil if necessary with organic matter (compost) or nutrients. Till and rake the soil to create a flat and loose soil texture.

Set Up Irrigation.

If installing an irrigation system yourself, be sure to set sprinkler heads at the proper height and install tubing or risers at the correct depth for your climate and lawn maintenance machinery. However, it is best to hire professionals to install your irrigation system due to the work involved.

Plant and Fertilize.

Depending on your climate and grass choice, you must sow the seed at the proper time or risk the seed not germinating. In cooler climates, bluegrass, ryegrass, and fescue are best sown in early spring or autumn when it is cool. In warmer climates, the more tropical grasses like Bermuda grass, centipede, and zoysia grow better in warm temperatures.

Fertility is dependent on soil acidity, which a soil test can determine. Grass grows best between 6.0 and 7.0 pH. You may need to make adjustments to the soil accordingly based on the results of your soil test. Apply compost or sulfur if your soil is too alkaline (over 7.0pH) or ground limestone if your soil proves to be too acidic (below 6.0 pH).

Use a spreader to apply grass seed and resolve not to broadcast the seed by hand. A spreader will ensure even distribution of seed, resulting in an even, clean-looking lawn without any bare spots. Always opt to sow seed late in the day or on overcast days to reduce the risk of drying out.

Cover Seed.

Rake a light coating of soil over the distributed seed to ensure that the seed is in contact with the soil. Cover sown seed lightly with a very thin layer of clean (seed-free) straw. You should still be able to see the soil through the thin layer of straw. It functions as a screen to shade the seed, reduce transpiration, and keep the seed from washing away with heavy rain.

Water Often.

Water or mist your newly sown lawn every day if you live in a hot climate. Continue watering until the lawn is at least 3 inches tall. Wait to mow the new lawn until the grass is at least 6 inches tall to encourage good root growth.

5 Tips for Lawn Maintenance

Weed Control

The best way to avoid weeds naturally and organically is to remove any weeds as soon as you spot them. Be sure to dig deep and remove the entire taproot. Save chemical treatments as a last resort. Some people choose to embrace noninvasive weeds, such as clover, as an alternative lawn.

Thatch and Aerate Annually

Take a lesson from turf managers at golf courses – thatch and aerate your lawn at least once a year. Grass grows quickly, and it spreads by forming from runners (rhizomes). Eventually, a lawn can grow too dense and thick, essentially choking itself out from nutrients. Golf courses remove about 1/4 of their grounds annually with a plug machine, but you can aerate your home lawn any number of ways.

Begin by thatching in early spring with a thatching rake to remove any dead growth. This process will invigorate the grass to begin growing again and reduce any suffocating material that might block sunlight and cause disease. Other methods for aerating include wearing aerator shoes, investing in a manual lawn aerator tool, or using a garden fork pressed into the ground every few inches.

Mow Appropriately

Perhaps the easiest way to ensure a lush green lawn is to mow it regularly and efficiently. Be sure to check the blades on your mower frequently to ensure that they are sharp and well oiled. It’s good practice to clean them off after each mow, regardless if you use a manual push mower or a fuel-powered one.

Water and Fertilize

Most lawn aficionados over-fertilize their lawns unnecessarily. If you choose to apply fertilizer, always measure accurately and use a mechanical spreader to ensure even coverage. If you plan to use a soil amendment, make sure to apply it at the proper time, such as on overcast days, in the evening, and preferably before rain is expected.

Watering properly is essential. Always soak for at least an hour or more rather than watering in random, light sprinklings so that grass can build deep root systems and thus be able to withstand an unexpected drought. However, too much water can also be a problem as it will encourage fungal growth. Always water early in the day so that water can evaporate, which keeps the foliage dry at night.

Consider New Environmentally Sound Alternatives

Monoculture lawns and lawncare that rely on pesticides and chemicals are under close scrutiny. There are many alternatives to create a beautiful lawn without creating a negative environmental impact. Innovations are now available ranging from non-grass lawn alternatives (clover sod) to electric mowers. Anyone can take steps to a more environmentally friendly lawn. Mulching mowers or hand-propelled mowers are an easy switch, and the natural clippings that fall will often provide enough nutrients for a healthy lawn for you, your family, and pets.

Starting Seeds Outdoors (in Spring and Early Summer)

Starting your seeds outdoors when the weather warms up has many benefits. Many seeds benefit from direct sunlight as this allows the plants to grow stronger with vigorous root systems. Here’s a complete guide on how to start your seeds outdoors.

In colder climates, many people must start seedlings early indoors (under lights or in a greenhouse / cold frame). Yet, while some plants benefit from an early jump-start of a few weeks or months indoors, a surprising number of flowers and vegetables grow better if sown outdoors a bit later in the season.

Regardless of where you garden is and what you are growing, outdoor sowing has plenty of benefits. Direct sunshine provides the ideal light quality, especially in late spring and early summer. The full spectrum light combined with light wind and breeze naturally aids growth, resulting in stronger, robust seedlings with thick stems and vigorous root systems.

Many of your plants will be much happier if they are started outdoors. The following information will give you step-by-step guidance on how to start your seeds outside successfully.

Do Your Research

Begin by assessing what each seed requires for good germination. Every type of seed has slightly different requirements in regards to temperature, moisture, and light. As with baking, gardening is sometimes more of a science than a craft. It’s wise to research the specific requirements each type of seed needs in regards to temperature, moisture, and light before you begin seeding.

Be sure to consider climate and location as well. A gardener in Los Angeles must contend with a different set of growing conditions than a gardener living in London.

Timing Is Everything

It’s best to organize one’s seeds by planting time rather than alphabetically. Many flowers and vegetables prefer to be sown much later than the earliest date suggested on a seed packet. Nearly all flower and vegetable seeds germinate faster and grow better when they are sown later in spring or early summer.

They also thrive when seeded outside versus indoors. Flowers like marigolds, cosmos, asters, zinnias, and even rudbeckia, while offered for sale in early spring (often already in bloom) at stores, will truly grow much taller and have a far more extended bloom period if sown outdoors. If there is any doubt, note that this is how many flower farmers grow them – in successive plantings all summer long.

Make a Seedbed

An outdoor seedbed is often ideal for starting many seeds that are pre-started indoors. The seedbed can be a simple area set aside from other plants and competition where the soil is bare and where one can easily access it to water and weed. Some people used a portion of a raised bed in their vegetable garden as their seedbed. The seedbed can also be within an outdoor cold frame with heating cables if located in a colder climate.

Prepare the Soil

Most seeds prefer a loose, friable soil that is neither too wet nor too dry. Prepare the soil by turning it over with a tiller or fork to loosen it and remove any large rocks or roots with a rake. Compost added to the soil will add moisture retention and nutrients. Extra fertility is rarely needed, but a water source nearby will help during dry spells. Few seedlings can tolerate dry periods due to their small size. A sprinkler or a nearby hose will be helpful.

Very small seed can be mixed with sand to help distribute it evenly.

Sow Seeds Thinly

Few seeds grow well if sown too thickly. Since you will be transplanting seedlings to different locations, leave some distance between seeds. A tiny seed can be especially challenging to sow thinly, but a good trick is to mix a packet of dust-like seed in some dry sand before sowing, which will help distribute the seeds more broadly. A kitchen sieve can be helpful for this task.

Note the Specific Light Requirements for Each Seed

Some seed requires exposure to daylight to germinate, while others require complete darkness. Daylength (Photoperiod) too can affect growth and bloom time. For example, marigolds and zinnias will bloom quicker if planted in mid-summer rather than in early spring. Use the description on the back of the seed packet as a starter guide and research online to see if there is more information available. The larger seed companies often offer commercial grow-sheets as free, downloadable pdfs that offer in-depth cultural details for most of the larger crops they sell.

Monitor and Maintain the Seedbed

Keep outdoor seedbeds watered during dry spells and free from weeds. The goal is to reduce any stress that can interfere with the growth of young plants. Thin any seedlings that are growing too close to each other. A good guide is to leave at least one inch (25.4 mm) between seedlings. This distance will provide enough room to dig out plants without damaging nearby seedling roots. If one sowed seed thinly, this should not be an issue.

Zinnia seeds sown outdoors in a tray after the weather is warm will grow many times faster than any started early indoors.

Starting Seeds in Outdoor Modules

Sowing seeds outdoors in cells, plug trays, or modules is a convenient alternative to sowing directly into the ground. This method is different from preparing seed trays for germinating indoors under lights or in a germination chamber. Plants often respond far better to conditions outdoors. They germinate and grow stronger with the benefit of bright, natural sunlight. Furthermore, the natural temperature differentiation between night and day and some light wind will ensure that the stems will grow sturdier and thicker than if they were grown indoors.

Ideal Containers and Soil

While nearly any container will suffice for starting seeds (from recycled yogurt cups and take-out containers to professional plastic pots, modules, and plug trays), be sure that the containers are at least 2 inches deep and have drainage holes. Be sure not to use garden soil as it will become too compact in the containers. A sterile professional potting mix is ideal as it will be both well-draining and have some moisture retentive material in it (usually coir or organic compost).

Warm weather annuals that dislike root disturbance such as flowering tobacco are best transplanted to their final flower beds just as the young plants have produced their second or third pair of leaves.

Moving the Seedlings

Lastly, don’t allow seedlings to grow too large before transplanting them to their final location. A good rule of thumb is to lift and divide seedlings once they have produced their second or third pair of true leaves (never count the first leaf or first pair of leaves). Lift the young plants carefully with a fork or spade and relocate to their final growing spot in another bed or container.

Common Grass Types for You to Choose

We rarely think of lawn grass as diverse, but the truth may surprise you. Many grasses can serve as ground cover and can lend your yard a unique appearance. Here we’ll introduce 4 kinds of warm-season grasses that are good for warm-weather and 3 cold-season grasses that serve colder regions.

Bermuda grass

Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon) is a grass native to the eastern hemisphere, though it is not native to Bermuda. In Bermuda, Bermuda grass is considered an invasive species. Hybrid breeds of Bermuda grass may contain cyanide and poison livestock, so caution should be exercised with regard to livestock.

Centipedegrass

Centipedegrass is a warm season lawn grass. It is a thick sod forming grass that spreads by stolons, and is medium to light green colored. It has a coarse texture with short upright seedhead stems that grow to about 3-5 inches. Centipedegrass seed is native to southern China and was introduced to the United States in 1916. It has since become one of the common grasses in the southeastern states and Hawaii. Centipedegrass can also be considered a weed.

St. Augustine's grass

St. Augustine’s grass (Stenotaphrum secundatum) is a plant species also known as St. Augustine grass. It is a common lawn grass as popular as Bermuda grass, and thrives in the Mediterranean region and tropical climates. It is common in the southern United States, Hawaii, South Africa and New Zealand.

Korean lawn grass

For a lush lawn in high traffic areas, Korean lawn grass, or Zoysia japonica is a solid choice. Also used for sports fields, golf courses, and commercial lawns, this grass is thick and lush. It is typically planted as sod, although some varieties will grow well from seed. Korean lawn grass needs to be mowed short and its soil needs to dry out between watering so that it can develop a more drought resistant root system.

Kentucky bluegrass

Kentucky bluegrass is one of the most commonly planted grasses for lawns in cool and humid parts of the United States. The name refers not to the color of the grass stalks, but instead is due to the purple-blue flowers that are seen if the grass is allowed to bloom. A good spot to see Kentucky bluegrass is at Lambeau Field in Green Bay, Wisconsin, home of the Green Bay Packers football team.

Perennial ryegrass

Perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne) is a plant species native to Eurasia. Perennial ryegrass is used in mixtures of lawn seed to feed cattle and to control erosion. Perennial ryegrass is also used to create turf for golf courses because of its hardiness. In countries where it’s imported, this plant is often considered an invasive species.

Tall fescue

Tall fescue (Lolium arundinaceum) is a perennial grass that grows 2 to 4 feet high. Many people consider it an invasive species because it causes ecological problems in woodlands, savannas, and grasslands. This species is native to Eurasia and was brought over by early colonists for livestock grazing.