Page 153

Test workflow

Author stage complete

Title

Summary1122

Paste as plain text

Level 1 heading

Paste as plain text

Level 1 Heading

Paste as plain text

Level 1 Heading

Paste as plain text

Level 1 Heading

Paste as plain text

Level 1 Heading

Paste as plain text

Level 1 Heading

Paste as plain text

Level 1 Heading

Paste as plain text

To Copy and Paste

Level 2 Small Heading

Gray illustration-Gray illustration

———TWO kinds of LIST———

Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text
Text

15 Best Low-Maintenance Shrubs for Creating Private Hedges

A wall of lush, green foliage can be so much more attractive than a wooden fence. The species on this list can all be grown easily into rows that repel intruders with thorns or tight branches, making passage difficult and protecting your yard.

Mountain laurel

The Mountain laurel is known for its showy, pink to rose-colored flowers that bloom in the spring and early summer. The shrub has glossy, dark green leaves, usually grows up to 6-10 foot tall. It is often used as a specimen plant or as a border shrub due to its attractive flowers and dense, compact growth habit.

Rose of sharon

Rose of Sharon is a deciduous shrub with trumpet-shaped pink, lavender, or white flowers. Although it was first collected by Western botanists from Syrian gardens, it is native to south-central and southeastern China. Because of its hardiness and prolific blooming, it is cultivated all around the world. It is the national flower of South Korea, mentioned in its national anthem.

Common boxwood

The Common boxwood may appear as a tree, however, it is actually a large shrub with blooms. The green flowers may not be eye-catching, yet they release a delightful fragrance. This shrub thrives in soils rich in limestone and chalk and grows at a slow pace, resulting in dense and hard wood that is suitable for cabinet making, mallet crafting, and musical instrument production, such as flutes and oboes.

Weeping forsythia

The Weeping forsythia is recognized for its brilliant yellow leaves and earned its nickname of the “golden bell”. Originating in Asia, it has been treasured by Chinese cultivators for centuries. The Weeping Forsythia is also a popular ornamental plant, often used in gardens and landscapes for its stunning display of yellow flowers in early spring.

Spotted laurel

The Spotted Laurel, also known as Aucuba japonica, is a durable green shrub native to Asia. It is a favorite among gardeners, thriving in moist soil in areas near water or rocks. The yellow speckles on its leaves have earned it the nickname “Gold Dust Plant.” Although its appearance is attractive, the Spotted Laurel is mildly toxic, with its fruit being avoided even by birds.

Japanese barberry

Japanese barberry is a shrub that is native to Japan and Korea. It is known for its attractive red leaves, which change to green in the summer and back to red in the fall, making it a popular ornamental plant for landscaping.

American holly

The American holly is a medium-sized evergreen tree, commonly found in southeastern areas of North America as an understory tree in humid forests. Its bright red fruits are poisonous to humans but are a very important source of food for numerous species of birds.

Glossy privet

The Glossy Privet is a versatile plant that can be grown as either a shrub or a tree. With its glossy leaves and fragrant white flowers, it adds beauty to any landscape. However, it’s important to note that the flowers have a strong scent, so make sure you like the odor before planting. Additionally, the berries produced by the Glossy Privet are toxic, so it’s important to keep them away from pets and children.

English yew

English yew (Taxus baccata) is a medium-sized evergreen tree. Its leaves and seeds are highly toxic, so it should be planted away from areas where children or pets may be able to reach them. The English Yew is often used in landscaping as a decorative shrub or tree, and its wood is also prized for its fine quality, making it a popular choice for wood carving and furniture-making.

Common lilac

The Common lilac is a popular ornamental plant that is prized for its fragrant and beautiful flowers. It produces clusters of fragrant, showy flowers in shades of pink, purple and white in spring. The flowers are often used in cut flower arrangements. This plant is widely cultivated for its ornamental value in gardens and parks

White cedar

The white cedar is a small- to medium-sized evergreen conifer native to North America. This tree can be found in a variety of environments, including forested wetlands and along cliffs. It is prized for its unique, flat-scale-like foliage that ranges in color from bright green to blue-green, depending on the variety. Its wood is durable, rot-resistant, and highly valued for use in outdoor furniture, shingles, and other building materials. It is also a favorite among bird lovers, as the tree provides shelter and food for many bird species.

Chinese privet

Chinese privet (Ligustrum sinense) is a deciduous shrub that has been highly respected by Chinese martial artists – It’s tough, but flexible shoots were widely used for making spears and darts. The plant is prized for its glossy green leaves and fragrant white flowers that bloom in the spring and early summer. It is often used in hedgerows, as a screen, or in topiary gardens because of its quick growth and lush foliage. This plant is also often used as a bonsai plant due to its ability to be shaped and trained easily.

Rockspray cotoneaster

Rockspray cotoneaster is known for its low-growing, spreading habit and attractive, shiny leaves. It produces delicate, pink or white flowers in the spring, followed by clusters of small, red or orange berries in the fall. The berries are a food source for many species of birds, making this plant a popular choice for gardeners who are interested in creating a bird-friendly garden. It is also well-suited for use as a groundcover or for growing on walls or slopes, thanks to its prostrate habit and its ability to root along its stems.

Flame azalea

The Flame azalea is known for its vibrant, golden-yellow flowers that bloom in late spring to early summer. These beautiful flowers make it a popular choice for gardeners who want to add some bright, eye-catching color to their landscape. The Flame Azalea is also popular for its attractive, dark green foliage that provides an attractive backdrop for its flowers. While it is not typically grown for its fruit, the shrub does produce small, dark blue berries that are enjoyed by wildlife such as birds.

Eastern hemlock

Eastern hemlock is a slow-growing coniferous tree native to North America. It is prized for its lush green needles that grow on its branches, and its distinctive, delicate cones. In the garden, it makes a beautiful and unique addition to the landscape, especially when planted in groups. The wood of the Eastern hemlock tree is very soft and light, making it useful for paper and other cellulose products, as well as for construction in areas where the tree is abundant.

Flower of the Week: Agapanthus

Nothing can be more refreshing to the eyes on hot summer days than a visual highlight in cool colors.

When you walk past yards and gardens and catch sight of clusters of lovely agapanthuses in blue or light purple, you can practically feel a breeze of coolness take the heat away.

An emblem of “striking love,” agapanthus has small, exquisite umbrella-type blooms gathered in plump, lively bundles.

Parks and yards are made pretty with its presence, and it can also add joyful decorative delight to your home when you bring potted agapanthus home.

A Lily in Name But not Truly a Lily

Agapanthus originates from Southern Africa. Its genus name, Agapanthus, means “flowers of love” in Greek. It is also called names like “Blue Lily,” “African Lily,” “Lily of the Nile”, etc.

Despite its resemblance to a small-sized lily and historical classification in the Liliaceae family (due to its appearance and how its ovary is formed), agapanthus is not truly a lily.

Now, with a genetic examination and new rules of classification, it has been re-classified to the Amaryllidaceae family.

Although agapanthus is not a lily, its flower language still says “love strikes,” and you can still give this flower to the one you love.

Places of Interest

Agapanthus is hugely popular in Australia. If you’d like to see a continuous sea of beautiful blue-violet flowers, visit Australia in the summer (keep in mind summer there is the wintertime of the Northern hemisphere). The Royal Botanic Garden in Sydney and Stanley, Tasmania, are two scenic spots worth recommending.

The Royal Botanic Garden in Sydney is a large arboretum located in downtown Sydney. Founded in 1816, it is Australia’s oldest scientific research institution and one of the world’s most important research facilities for historical plants, with over 20,000 plant species in its collection.

Take a stroll in the Southern African Garden, and a profusion of blue-violet agapanthuses will welcome you with gorgeous blossoms waving in the breeze – a lovely sight.

If you don’t feel like going to the tourist-packed arboretum, a vacation in the township of Stanley may be another choice.

Take a walk along the seashore, and a long belt of blooming agapanthuses in front of beach houses and cottages on the hillsides will catch your eyes. Ageless white, tranquil blue, and mysterious purple, they swing and dance in the wind with a peaceful appeal.

For a moment, you can let go of the hustle and flow of the city, embrace the green ocean and blue sky, get footloose on the beach for a relaxed run, and imagine you’ve entered into a dreamland only fairy tales can offer.

Claude Monet's Agapanthus

Claude Monet, the master French artist of Impressionism, owned a small beautiful garden in his later years. Besides the well-known water lilies, Monet also planted plenty of agapanthuses in his garden.

Between 1914 to 1926, Monet painted a piece titled “Agapanthus” that is considered one of the most famous works of the last stage of his artistic career.

Agapanthus is called the “flower of love” in Southern Africa, and just as its flower language suggests, Monet lived with his wife and children in his twilight years and expressed a great love to his beloved ones through his tenacious will to stay vital.

Agapanthus (circa 1914 – circa 1926) Claude Monet

The dynamic movement of agapanthus in the wind is artistically captured with blue-violet brushes, displaying Monet’s beautiful visions for romantic and family love. Yet, the omnipresent cyan tone sets a timeless sense of melancholy to the art piece, making one immediately sympathize with the master in old age.

Can I Grow Agapanthus Well?

Agapanthus is strongly vital. Wild agapanthus can survive in barren soils. To enjoy the blue-violet sight at home, you don’t need to invest a lot of time or work; just meet its needs for proper light, soil, and water conditions, and it will flourish.

Agapanthus likes ample sunlight. In winter and spring, make sure it gets sufficient light duration, while in summer, it needs some shade and good ventilation.

Agapanthus likes humus-rich soil with good drainage. Watering it once a day in summer and once a month in winter will suffice.

It generally doesn’t need pruning. Just remove the dried leaves from the plant’s base from time to time, and deadhead the spent flowers after blooming.

Size: 50-100 cm (1.6-3.2 ft) tall

Hardiness: USDA Hardiness Zones 8-11

Light Duration: Full light to half shad

Soil: Fertile, moist, with good drainage

Blooming Time: Summer

How to Divide and Multiply Your Spring Blooming Perennials

Keeping perennials healthy can be a challenge. Here’s a guide for dividing spring blooming plants to ensure they spread and have enough space in your garden to thrive. You’ll learn which plants are best for splitting and the steps to do so successfully.

There’s nothing more satisfying than putting work into a garden that you will enjoy for years to come. Perennials are an essential part of most gardens, bringing color and continuous growth for many seasons. However, keeping perennials looking their best requires some maintenance—including separating plants when they grow too large.

Dividing perennials is essential to avoid overcrowding and to keep your plants thriving. This article provides everything you need to know on how to divide spring blooming perennials.

Why Divide Perennials

Beginning gardeners often make the mistake of assuming that perennials need little maintenance. In reality, many perennials have vigorous growth habits and send up lots of new shoots and roots that need to be maintained.

Over time, this creates crowding issues. The plant begins to compete with itself for access to water, light, and nutrients. The result? A frailer plant overall that grows weaker stems and puts out fewer, smaller flowers.

Dividing a perennial plant reduces its stress and gives it more space to grow and thrive. As a bonus, part of the plant can be transplanted elsewhere if you wish to expand your garden or plant the perennial in a different location.

Which Plants To Divide

Not all perennials are appropriate for dividing. Some plants, such as lupine and butterfly weed, grow with one large taproot that doesn’t take well to being split.

Plants with fibrous roots thrive when divided and get rejuvenated in the process. These include daylilies, ornamental grasses, black-eyed Susan, and most hostas.

Be sure to check with a plant expert before dividing your perennial to ensure the variety can handle it.

When To Divide Perennials

As a general rule, it’s best to divide perennials every three years. However, plants that grow in fertile soil and plenty of sun will grow faster and may need to be split more often.

Ideally, you want to divide spring-blooming perennials before the plants genuinely need it. However, don’t wait until they are overcrowded, as the plants will already experience negative consequences from the space pressure.

Fall Is Best

The best time to divide spring-blooming perennials is in the fall because you won’t disrupt their blooming cycle. Ensure you give the plant enough time to get established before the ground freezes by dividing at least six weeks before you expect snow.

Spring Is Fine

Early spring will also work just as the plant shows new signs of growth. This will give its roots plenty of time to acclimate to new conditions before the summer heats up. Just note that plants that are divided before flowering will take longer to become reestablished and may produce minimal blooms.

For best results, plan to divide your perennials when the weather is cool and wet. This reduces stress on the plant by ensuring its roots won’t dry out during the transplanting process.

How To Divide Perennials

Once it’s time to divide your perennials, water the plant thoroughly and prepare the place where you plan to replant it. Consider adding organic fertilizer to the soil to help ease the transition. Remember, cloudy days are best!

You can then dig up the entire root clump you plan to split. Make sure you pull up plenty of soil with the roots to avoid accidentally cutting them off. Place the whole plant on a tarp and shake it gently to remove loose dirt.

Next, take a sharp knife and examine the roots. There are three basic root systems to be aware of:

Spreading roots: These roots spread outward from the original stem and are usually shallowly rooted. You can pull them apart by hand into individual plants.
Clumping roots: These compact root systems are usually thick and fleshy. They grow downwards and are closely intertwined. Divide them by cutting the crown into pieces, ensuring each piece has a few buds attached.
Rhizomes: Essentially thick, fleshy stems that grow underground, rhizomes spread outward from the plant and have the potential to grow on their own with little fuss. Make sure you divide them with a sharp knife and keep a few buds on each piece.

Cut where you see a natural separation in the roots, or simply slice the plant in half. You can continue to cut until you have multiple sections, making sure each clump has visible green growth above the ground and is at least 20% of the original plant.

Replanting Divided Perennials

After dividing, you can replant each smaller clump into prepared soil, ensuring they are planted at the same depth as the original plant. Ensure you pack the soil down around each plant to minimize air space and ensure the roots make contact with the ground.

You can ease the transition by cutting off the top six inches of the plant so it puts its energy back to root growth. Water the divided plants immediately after planting and keep them well-watered for several weeks.

It’s always best to replant on the same day you divide. If that’s not possible, wet the roots and store the plants in a cool, dark place until they can get in the ground.

Caring For Your Perennials After Dividing

After dividing, perennials may look stressed and shrink back. However, you should see signs of new growth within a few weeks. Refrain from applying nitrogen fertilizer for at least a year, as it will encourage the plant to put energy towards leaf growth at the expense of its roots.

For fall plantings, it’s smart to apply thick mulch around the base of each perennial as soon as the ground freezes. This will protect the vulnerable roots systems against freeze and thaw cycles.

While perennials might not be as carefree as you first thought, dividing spring-blooming plants is a straightforward process that will benefit them for years to come. Take the time to do it right, and you’ll continue to enjoy an abundance of healthy perennial plants in your garden.

How to Prune Fruit Trees to Keep Them Tidy and Productive

If you have fruit trees growing in your garden, you should prune them at least once a year. This will ensure that your trees maintain good health and also a manageable shape. Plus, proper pruning will ensure that your trees provide plenty of fruit.

To keep the fruit trees tidy and productive, we will prune them once a year. When would be the best time?

Most fruit trees are deciduous, which means they lose their leaves every year and go dormant. The dormant period is the best time to prune a tree. In most climate zones, this is in the winter or very early spring.

To make this job easier, there are three basic steps to successfully pruning your fruit trees.

Let’s delve into these three steps in more detail.

Removing Dead and Diseased Wood

The first step to pruning a fruit tree is to remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. This should be fairly easy as dead branches are not difficult to spot.

If you’re not sure whether a branch is dead or not, there’s an easy way to tell. All you have to do is scrape back a tiny amount of bark with your fingernail or the blade of your secateurs. Then, look at the branch under the bark. If it still shows signs of green, then the branch is not dead. A dead branch will be completely brown and dry.

If you have a grafted tree, you might notice some branches growing out of the trunk from beneath the graft. These are part of the rootstock and will not fruit. These should always be removed and can be cut any time of the year.

Make sure you cut these in line with the trunk of the tree so that they can’t regrow. If you don’t cut them off, they will take away some of the energy that the tree would otherwise be using to produce fruit.

Thinning Out Overgrown Branches

This is an important step that allows more air and light into the tree and helps to give it a better shape. Because we’re opening up the center of the tree, there’s much less likelihood of your tree being susceptible to pests and diseases.

When thinning out the branches, there are certain things to look out for. You want to remove the following types of branches:

Any branches that are growing downward. Fruiting branches should be reaching up to the sun as the fruit will be much sweeter and more abundant.
Branches that are growing towards the trunk rather than outwards. Inwardly growing branches will crowd the center of the tree and won’t be as productive.
Any branches that cross over the path of another branch. Once again, these branches will crowd the center of the tree and reduce the amount of air and light that gets through.

While you’re pruning out these branches, take a step back every once in a while and look at the general shape of the tree. Well-pruned fruit trees should have the general shape of a vase, with a few strong upright branches that have smaller outwardly growing branches off these.

The leader branches should connect to the central trunk at a 2 o’clock or 10 o’clock angle. This gives these branches additional strength and means that they won’t break if they’re heavily laden with fruit.

The center of the tree should be fairly open and never be overcrowded with crisscrossing branches. Once you get the general shape of the tree right, it should be fairly easy to maintain.

Remember to cut off branches as close to where they come off another one as possible. Try not to leave any small stumps as these will die back and allow spaces for disease to enter.

Heading Back

Heading back is like giving your tree a haircut as you’ll be cutting back a portion of last season’s growth. The benefit of this haircut is to keep the tree looking tidy and to encourage the remaining branches to thicken and grow stronger.

To do this successfully, you want to identify the previous season’s growth. This new growth will be slightly lighter in color than older growth. After a little practice, you should be able to identify this new growth fairly easily.

Once you’ve identified the new growth, cut it back by about 20 or 30 percent from the tip of the branch. When cutting back these branches make sure that you make the cut just above an emerging bud. Be careful not to damage the bud though.

It’s ideal if you locate an outwardly growing bud for these cuts as this will help to improve the shape of your tree. If this is not cut, a new branch will eventually grow from this bud in the direction that the bud is pointing.

Furthermore, try to angle the cut in the direction of the bud. Therefore, if a bud is pointing to the right, you should angle the cut slightly downward so that the top of the cut is just above the newly forming bud and the bottom of the cut is almost level with the bud.

Final Thoughts

Now you know exactly how to prune your fruit trees to give them both shape and to get them to provide you with a bumper crop.

The most important thing to remember is to make sure that the center of the tree has plenty of space to let air and sunlight in. Ensure that there are no overlapping branches that rub against each other and cause damage to the wood or the fruit.

Now all that’s left to do is to give your trees a good dose of organic fertilizer to get them ready for the growing season.

11 Scented Shrubs That Will Sweeten Your Garden

There’s nothing like a touch of natural and subtle fragrance in the air to lift your spirits and transport your mind to a peaceful paradise, and that’s why we simply can’t get enough of these 11 fragrant shrubs. Try them for yourself and you’ll fall in love with their heavenly scent!

Japanese pieris

Japanese pieris (Pieris japonica) is an evergreen shrub that produces chains of small flowers. But be careful, it can cause seizures and temporary blindness if consumed by animals or people. Even so, is sometimes grown in the foundation portion of gardens along with other shrubs.

Winter daphne

Winter daphne, or Daphne odora, is an evergreen shrub grown for its strongly fragrant flowers. This shrub is toxic to humans and animals. Winter daphne grows 3-4 ft (0.9-1.2 m) tall and is susceptible to root rot from soggy soil.

Koreanspice viburnum

Fragrant pink buds that turn to white blooms are the hallmark of the Koreanspice viburnum, a member of the elderberry family. Also known as the Viburnum carlesii, this deciduous shrub is hardy in grow zones four through seven. Essentially rabbit proof, the Koreanspice viburnum is attractive to butterflies and caterpillars and produces beautiful fall foliage. Only female bushes will produce berries.

Rugosa rose

This shrub is known for its hardiness, surviving in many climate zones and poor soil conditions. They produce large flowers from summer to winter and their hips attract birds (and are tasty to humans too!). With such beautiful flowers one might be surprised to hear that the Rugosa rose is considered an invasive species in some regions.

Sweet mock-orange

Philadelphus coronarius, commonly known as Sweet mock-orange, is a popular ornamental plant known for the lavish, sweet smell of its gentle flowers. Sweet mock-orange is a deciduous, dense shrub commonly found in Mediterranean woodlands and scrubs.

Common lilac

The common lilac is a sweet-smelling flowering plant with cloudy purple leaves. The scent is so popular that it has found its way into body-care products of all types. It is a member of the olive family. The common lilac can be found around the world today, but it is native to the Balkan Peninsula and thrives in rocky environments.

Japanese privet

Japanese privet (Ligustrum japonicum) is an evergreen ornamental shrub or small tree with dark, glossy leaves and numerous clusters of white flowers. It blooms in late spring, and the unpleasant scent of the flowers is sometimes derided. Japanese privet is considered an invasive species in certain parts of North America.

Winter honeysuckle

Lonicera fragrantissima, or Winter honeysuckle, is a large deciduous bush with a delightful, strong fragrance. The nectar in the creamy white flowers attracts many bees, but the fruit of the Winter honeysuckle is toxic.

Arabian jasmine

Arabian jasminehas much significance in many countries around the world. It is the national flower of both the Philippines and Indonesia. It is regularly used in ceremonial costumes and decorations in Sri Lanka, while in China it is the key ingredient in Jasmine tea. Hawaiians use Arabian jasmine to make fragrant leis, and in Pakistan, Bangladesh and India it is used in garlands and hair adornments.

Sweet osmanthus

Sweet osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans) is a large evergreen flowering shrub. Sweet osmanthus’s small white and orange flowers smell like apricots. This species is also referred to as by the Fragrant Tea Olive.

Cape jasmine

Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.

The 4 Best Flowers for Virgo and What They Mean

Virgos are known for their analytical and meticulous nature but can be very self-critical. They need flowers that nurture them and bring out their best qualities. The four best flowers for Virgos are Buttercups, Chrysanthemums, Asters, and St. John’s Wort.

Born between August 23rd and September 22nd? That’s a Virgo! Ruled by the planet Mercury, Virgo’s element is the earth, and the colors are tan and warm yellow. The mantra of Virgo is “I analyze.”

And that’s no joke! Virgos love things to be exacting, and their attention to detail is legendary. While some people may think Virgos are being picky and critical, they are simply acting meticulously to accomplish the primary goal and greatest joy — to help others. There’s no room for error when healing people or projects.

But while Virgo’s detail-oriented mind can help, it can also lead to worry, anxiety, and insomnia if they don’t regularly ground themselves in their body. And what better way to ground than to enjoy Virgo’s birth flowers? Here are 4 beautiful flowers for Virgo!

Buttercup for Neatness

These orderly and tiny flowers are associated with neatness. When cut for bouquets, their straight-line stems and neat, uniform petals make them an ordered bouquet. If that description has you clamoring to buy a bouquet of your own, then that truly makes you a Virgo.

The buttercup genus Ranunculus includes over 400 species ranging from the very simple five-petaled meadow buttercup to the heavily petaled Persian Buttercup.

If you’re growing cut flowers or using buttercups in flower arrangements, then go with Persian Buttercups. Mix them with other smaller flowers for a neat and simple yet stunningly elegant arrangement.

Chrysanthemum for Nurture

Virgos are the most caring among the zodiac because they take care of others. Chrysanthemums are considered the official flower of Mother’s Day, and therefore considered caring Virgo’s birth flower.

Chrysanthemums also represent positive energy, making them a perfect gift to cheer up a friend in a time of need. For example, if some friend is ill, send them violet chrysanthemums, which means, “I hope you feel better.”

To grow chrysanthemums in your garden, you can start them indoors during the late winter or plant in either spring or autumn. Deadheading will keep them producing flowers.

As a cut flower, chrysanthemums work well as a bouquet on their own or when mixed with roses and lilies for variety.

Asters for Support

Asters are the official birth flower for September, so if you’re a Virgo born in September, they’re doubly your birth flower.

These daisy-like blossoms represent wisdom, a virtue that Virgos highly prize. Through your conscientiousness, you seek to learn and master new subjects in an organized manner.

They also represent daintiness and patience. The petals look delicate, but they’re actually quite a hardy plant. In fact, they’re a splendid choice to add to a desert garden.

In a bouquet, they play the supporting role, accenting other flowers nicely. As a Virgo, you’re not looking to be the center of attention or the leader. You’re happiest when you’re helping everyone else. Asters make excellent accents with bigger and bolder flowers (like chrysanthemums and buttercups).

Asters are a pretty easy flower to grow, with native varieties found throughout North America. The only thing you need to be careful of is to plant them in a place that drains well, as they’re pretty sensitive to moisture levels.

St. John’s Wort for Grounding

The strength of a Virgo can become a weakness. When spending so much time in your head focused on all the details, your mind tracks all the negative possibilities, spinning them to appear frightfully real.

St. John’s Wort (also known as Hypericum) reminds us to stay grounded through life’s anxieties and trials. As St. John’s Wort grows, it spreads its rhizomes over the ground before reaching up with its branches. Likewise, your mental health benefits from grounding yourself in your body through gardening, exercise, yoga, or even by simply observing a beautiful flower. When you come out of your mind and return to your body, those anxieties fall away.

St. John’s Wort, while considered an herb and a flower, is actually a shrub. They’re pretty tolerant to most growing conditions, from occasional flooding to a long dry spell, although they need a spot with some shade in the hot afternoon. As it spreads through rhizomes, keep it pruned back so it doesn’t get out of hand.

St. John’s Wort is an unusual choice but makes an excellent country-style bouquet either by itself or paired with other simple flowers like daisies.

You can plant these four Virgo birth flowers for yourself or thank your Virgo friend for all their help with a bouquet.

A Beginner’s Guide to Plant Propagation

It’s possible to turn one plant into many through propagation. Learn about the differences between sexual and asexual propagation and what it takes to start plants from seeds and get a plant to sprout from a leaf or cutting.

Buying new plants is an expensive way to expand your garden. A better strategy? Propagate the plants you already have.

With the right techniques, you can soon fill your empty garden space from the offspring of a few parent plants. Here’s how to get started with plant propagation at home.

What Is Plant Propagation?

Put simply, plant propagation is the process of creating new plants from ones you already have. Different methods of propagation are classified into two categories: sexual and asexual.

Sexual Propagation

The most common way plants multiply is by producing viable seeds through sexual reproduction. Though there are exceptions, this method usually requires the pollen from one plant to reach the flowers of another. Under the right conditions, these seeds will germinate and grow into plants genetically similar (but not identical) to their parents.

This genetic diversity allows gardeners to create new varieties over time, but it can be a tedious strategy for increasing the plants in your garden.

Asexual Propagation

Asexual propagation, in contrast, skips seed production and instead uses vegetive plant parts like the leaves, stems, roots, and more to make a genetic clone of the parent plant. Most asexual propagation methods produce new plants more quickly than going from seed, and the clones will be virtually identical to the parent plant.

This means that gardeners will know precisely what the character traits of their propagated plants will be, but it also limits genetic diversity. Over time, it can make plants more susceptible to environmental stresses and disease.

How Do You Propagate Plants? Seven Methods

There are many strategies for propagating plants at home. Here are seven strategies that work for most varieties.

1. Cuttings

A “cutting” is a vegetative part of the plant, such as stems, leaves, or roots, that you separate from the larger parent and plant on its own to regenerate into a whole new plant. Cuttings are often classified based on the material they come from and whether it comes from old growth (hardwood) or new growth (softwood).

One popular propagation strategy is to place a cutting in a glass of water. Within a few days, small roots should start to form. You can plant the cutting in soil after several weeks of root growth.

2. Layering

For this propagation method, you will bend a branch from an existing plant until it’s at ground level. Cover the branch with soil and allow it to root. After a month or longer, it should develop a strong root system. At this point, you can cut it away from the main plant and plant it elsewhere.

Because it requires an entire branch of an existing plant, layering will only work for propagating a few plants from each parent at a time.

3. Division

As the name implies, this propagation technique requires you to divide up the roots system of existing plants to replant some of them elsewhere. It’s an excellent strategy for perennials that need more space to spread out.

As a general rule, plants that flower in the spring should be divided and replanted in the late summer or fall, and those that flower in the summer should be divided in the early spring when they are still dormant.

4. Grafting

Popular for trees, grafting is a propagation strategy where you cut the twig from one plant and join it onto the stem of another, so they function as one plant. This lets you combine positive character traits of multiple varieties for a better plant overall. For example, fruit growers often combine the rootstock of disease-resistant varieties with the trunks of tastier, but more finicky varieties, so they get the benefits of both characteristics in the final plant.

It’s also possible to make multiple grafts on the same plant. For example, someone with a small yard might graft multiple varieties of apples onto one trunk to maximize its production potential.

Grafting works best when done in the spring before new growth appears. Popular techniques are known as whip, bark, cleft, and side grafting.

5. Budding

This propagation method is similar to grafting but requires you to take a single bud with minimal wood and insert it into the rootstock to grow as one plant. It works well for plants that don’t produce viable seeds or for grafting new varieties on the tops of trees when other grafting strategies aren’t possible.

6. Tissue Culture

This relatively new propagation technique is more advanced than the others listed here and is typically used in commercial settings. Tissue culture works to propagate plants within a glass propagation tube and makes it possible to start hundreds, even thousands of new cultivars at once from a single parent plant.

The resulting clones are small and easy to ship, making this a popular propagation method for large nurseries.

7. By Seed

Finally, it’s also possible to propagate plants by seed. While the best method will vary based on the variety you’re working with, it’s usually possible to harvest the plant’s seed head once it turns dry and brown. Store it in a cool, dark place, and plant the seeds once seasonally appropriate the following spring.

Note that many plant varieties, such as hybrids, produce seeds that won’t be “true” to their parent. These seeds can develop unexpected, often undesirable character traits. Avoid this problem by researching the traits of the varieties you are growing before saving seeds to ensure you aren’t wasting your time.

Try Propagation for a More Prolific Garden

Learning how to start new plants at home is a cost-effective way to expand your garden. Experiment with these different propagation strategies in your garden, and you’ll never be short on plants again.

Flower of the Week: Crepe Myrtle

Crepe Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) is a very common ornamental plant in the Eastern and Southern US. The species has dramatically varied forms, with dwarfed varieties only 2-4 ft (0.6-1.2 m) tall and arboreal varieties as tall as 27 ft (8 m).

Crepe myrtle can be grown in large green belts or hedgerows, planted in gardens as specimen trees, or potted and pruned as flower balls. They tolerate air pollution well and can be planted in mining zones and big cities.

Petals like Wrinkled Papers

Petals are the most characteristic part of crepe myrtles. There are 6 petals on each crepe myrtle flower, and they come in various colors like white, coral pink, rosy red, red, fuchsia, etc.

Small flowers will form a 0.2-0.6 in (7-20 cm) long conical blooms. A crepe myrtle petal has a long base and a loose, wrinkled top. When blooming, the entire inflorescence impresses as a whole and stands out easily.

A close look at crepe myrtle flowers’ details.

The flower’s name, crêpe myrtle, traces its origin to the petals, too, because the petals bear resemblance to colorful crêpe paper. People also occasionally spell it as crape myrtle, which is also acceptable.

Crêpe paper in orange and yellow.

A Cultivation History as Long as the History of the United States

Crepe myrtle originated from East Asia and was introduced to America in 1747. The plant’s cultivation history in America is as long as the history of the United States.

Because they require little care and the flowering season lasts long during summer and fall, their popularity soared shortly after their introduction and they were widely grown in the Southern US.

In 1950, American horticulturists brought the seeds of Japanese crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia fauriei), a close relative of crepe myrtle, back from Japan, and planted them on the campus of the University of North Carolina.

The descendants of those foreign species display features such as erect tree trunks and are more cold-resistant, giving horticulturists ideas to hybridize Japanese crepe myrtle with the native crepe myrtle.

The hybridization took place in the United States National Arboretum and turned out to be a big success. A series of deeply accoladed lines of varieties have been cultivated from these offsprings, all of which are named after Native American tribes, including the famous ‘Natchez’ line.

Branches of crepe myrtle of the ‘Natchez’ line.

Decades later, geneticists employed new technology to process crepe myrtle by using chemical mutagens and Gamma-ray mutagenesis, and since then have selected and cultivated a new batch of excellent varieties, including the dark-leafed variety with dark fuchsia leaves.

Can I Grow Crepe Myrtle Well?

Crepe Myrtle tolerates drought and heat well and doesn’t need much care, so it is a good choice for gardening beginners.

It loves sunlight, so place it outdoors in sunny spots during the growing season. Sufficient light duration also reduces the chance of powdery mildew.

When digging the planting pit, apply some bone meal as base fertilizer and mix the bone meal and soil evenly. Crepe myrtle is not tolerant of high-concentration fertilizers; over-fertilizing can result in spindling and failure to bloom. Just apply diluted liquid fertilizers once a month during its growing season, and stop fertilizing after the flower season.

Crepe myrtles of open field culture generally don’t require additional watering in an area with normal precipitation, but will need some watering in dry or excessively hot seasons. Potted crepe myrtles need a higher watering frequency that those in the open.

To make its flower season last longer, trim branch tips with spent flowers in time to promote re-budding for the next round of flowering. Proper pruning can prolong crepe myrtle’s flowering season to 100-120 days.

To keep the plant form in good shape, prune in late winter. The soils of potted crepe myrtles need to be replaced every 2 to 3 years.

Crepe myrtles after the winter pruning.

Powdery mildew and Cercospora blight are common diseases that may harm crepe myrtle. Purchasing varieties that are resistant to those diseases can prevent such problems. If your plant becomes diseased, remove the sick branches and leaves and improve ventilation.

Leaf browning is also a common problem. If it happens in spring, it’s often caused by an occasional cold spell, and usually won’t kill the plant. If it happens in summer, it’s probably caused by excessive heat and drought (common in the Southern US). Keep watering the plant in early mornings, and the symptoms should fade away.

Size: 8-20 feet (2.5-6 m) tall, treetop diameter 5-10 feet (1.5-3 m)

Hardiness: USDA Hardiness Zones 6-9

Light Duration: Full light

Soil: Sandy soil, loamy soil, or chalk soil with good drainage

Blooming Time: Summer to early fall

How to Prevent and Control Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease that can affect almost any plant. It impairs photosynthesis and is sometimes fatal. This article will show you how to identify, prevent, and control the spread of powdery mildew.

Powdery mildew can affect almost all plants, including vegetables, roses, trees, herbs, and flowering ornamentals.

It is one of the easiest plant diseases to identify due to its distinctive appearance and symptoms. Powdery mildew shows up as a white powdery film on the leaves and stems of the plants. It looks very similar to a dusting of flour or baby powder and may darken to a gray color over time. Lower leaves are typically affected first, but the disease can spread throughout an entire plant.

Infection rates are highest in warm climates and are increased by bouts of high humidity. The fungal spores are transferred via moisture (irrigation, rainfall, etc.) and wind.

Spores move quickly from one part of the plant to another, they may fall to the soil underneath the infected plant, and they may move to neighboring plants and infect them depending upon the fungal species causing the infection.

Powdery mildew is rarely fatal itself once it infects a plant. However, since it covers the leaf surface, it may impair photosynthesis if the fungal spores become too thick. In turn, plant growth is stunted, and a lack of photosynthesis can lead to plant death if the disease is left untreated.

How to Prevent Powdery Mildew

When it comes to any fungal diseases, preventing them from occurring is much easier than treating them once an infection is noticed. Preventing powdery mildew centers around cultural practices that are easy to implement.

These prevention tips work for both inside houseplants and outdoor plants, regardless of the plant type.

Reduce humidity around indoor plants if powdery mildew has been problematic in the past. Houseplants typically suffer because the humidity is too low indoors, but In areas with extremely high humidity, such as tropical climates, high humidity is problematic. This increased moisture in the air predisposes plants to mold and mildew problems. To help prevent issues, use a small dehumidifier to reduce the relative humidity immediately around the plants.
Give your indoor plants plenty of light. Natural sunlight is best, and windowsills are the perfect place for sun-loving plants. You can also give them supplemental light or periodically move them outside as long as you don’t allow the leaves to scorch.

Maintain good air circulation. Space plants so there is room for air to circulate between them. Constant air movement can prevent spores from settling on the leaves and helps the soil dry out more quickly. Keep plants pruned, so there is also good air movement through the foliage.
Keep plants free of debris. Regularly inspect indoor and outdoor plants for dead leaves or branches and remove them immediately using sterilized shears or clippers. Also, gather up and remove any debris on the soil surface around plants so it can’t harbor fungal growth.

Always check new plants for disease. Before bringing any plant into your home or garden, inspect it thoroughly for signs of powdery mildew or other fungal diseases to prevent the introduction and spreading to your existing, healthy plants.
Use natural antifungals on plants that are prone to problems. For example, baking soda, cinnamon, and apple cider vinegar all have natural anti-fungal properties. You can sprinkle small amounts of any of the items on the soil surface around your plants to prevent powdery mildew growth. They are safe in small quantities and won’t cause any problems to the plant.

Controlling Powdery Mildew

If you notice powdery mildew symptoms on your plants, it’s essential to treat the disease quickly. This helps to minimize the effects on the affected plant and prevents spreading to neighboring plants.

Remove all infected plant tissue using sterilized pruning shears or disinfected. Dispose of the removed plant parts in the trash; never put this material in your compost bin.
Spray plants with a homemade bicarbonate solution (1 teaspoon baking soda per quart of water) or a sulfur-based fungicide according to its label directions. Neem oil can be added to either treatment option to increase its effectiveness.