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Everything to Know About Trailing Plants

Long, cascading vines of trailing houseplants are the hottest trend in interior decorating. Here’s a look at the varieties lighting up social media.

You may have noticed that long, cascading vines of trailing plants have become an integral part of interior design trends. Whether hanging from baskets or spilling over the edges of shelves and bookcases, these playful additions can soften modern edges and add life and depth to indoor spaces.

But what species will add just the right touch of style? Read on to discover the trailing varieties getting the most attention on social media during the current houseplant craze.

String of Pearls and other Senecio varieties

Some of the most unique looks in the hanging-plant trend come from the wide variety of Senecio plants that grow in a trailing habit. Their succulent leaves are three-dimensional, plump little objects that look like treasures that have been strung along a cord. The most ubiquitous is Senecio rowleyanus, known as the String of Pearls or String of Beads for its ball-shaped leaves.

Rarer finds are even more delightful: The String of Bananas has crescent-shaped adornments, and the String of Tears features elegant, pointed succulent leaves. The most eye-catching may be the String of Dolphins, whose unique, instantly recognizable shape might make these the most desirable variety of all.

Each of these varieties spills over the edges of its pot with hardly any vertical growth, making them a natural choice for a high shelf or hanging in a basket above eye level. Planters painted to look like faces may be the perfect match for these plants: The mind instantly interprets their flowing stems as delightfully adorned locks of hair.

String of Hearts

Succulents aren’t the only plants that grow in the trendy leaves-on-a-string style: Ceropegia woodii, the String of Hearts or Sweetheart Vine, displays cute heart-shaped leaves with plenty of visual interest. Its patterned leaves will deepen in better light, although it will scorch in more than a few hours of direct sun, so choose your placement appropriately. When happy, it grows quickly, forming a hanging curtain with its many long strands.

The variegated form of this plant is even more popular to photograph, although it may be harder to actually find one for your own home. The pink edges of its fancy leaves match so well with its heart-shaped form that the Ceropegia woodii variegata is on many a plant lover’s wishlist and sells out fast.

Burro’s Tail

When it comes to social media trends, the more unique the look, the better. And the Burro’s Tail is unlike any other plant you’ve seen. Its thick, succulent leaves grow too densely for the stalk to hold up against gravity for very long, leading to thick “tails” that hang over the edges of any container it’s put into. The striking, alien look of this plant makes it endlessly photographable. Although its leaves are usually a pale, minty green, the right amount of direct sunlight can cause “stress colors” to appear, potentially creating a rainbow of shades across your plant!

Heartleaf Philodendron

For those in search of the “indoor jungle” vibe, look no further than the gorgeous, rich-colored leaves of the Heartleaf Philodendron. Not only is this plant considered quite easy to care for in standard indoor conditions, it grows voluminous vines rather quickly, creating a lush look that is completely on-trend, whether spilling from a shelf or climbing up a trellis.

Monstera Adansonaii

Fenestrated (hole-filled) leaves are all the rage right now, and so the Monstera Adansonaii is in high demand for multiple reasons. Not only is its leaf shape endlessly admirable, but it grows in a vining, trailing habit that adds a wild, tropical look to any space. It can be used in the background or as a focal point of a room’s décor. It even comes in a variegated, white-and-green version that is so popular that a single two-leaf cutting for propagation can fetch more than $1,000 USD.

Tradescantias

There are many varieties of Tradescantia on the market, and each one can bring a pop of unusual color to an otherwise monochromatic plantscape. Perfect for ambitious visions that require dense growth and lots of leaves, these plants grow fast and thick, and will fill any available space with an avalanche of foliage in no time. The undersides of its leaves range from maroon (t. zebrina) to deep purple (t. pallida) to pale pink (t. fluminensis and t. nanouk), and variegated versions of several of these species display a beautiful green-and-white striping. If all these colors sound enticing, you’ll be glad to know it’s easy to trade cuttings with friends, as stems from this plant root very quickly and propagate new plants in no time.

Pothos

Although the most popular varieties of these well-known plants are certainly not rare, people just can’t seem to get enough of the Pothos. Its versatility under poor lighting conditions, fast growth, and elegant leaf shape make it an ideal addition anywhere in your home. Many people find themselves collecting every variety of this plant that they can find. It’s easy to train its fast-growing vines across shelves or even along walls, filling any space that gets a little light and could use a bit more green.

There are many popular varieties of the Devil’s Ivy, so-named because of how hard this plant is to kill. The leaves of the Golden Pothos show occasional yellow variegation, while the Pothos N’Joy and Marble Queen each have unique patterns of white. The Neon Pothos features bright lime-green foliage, while the Satin Pothos has a deeper hue and a silvery sheen. The most coveted variety is currently the Cebu Blue, whose leaves carry an attractive turquoise hue. Although the Pothos is ubiquitous, it can still surprise and enrapture.

How to Grow Succulents Indoors

Succulents are beautiful and tough plants that thrive in almost any condition. They make great houseplants and are fairly easy to care for.This guide will teach you all you need to know to successfully grow and propagate your indoor succulents.

Looking for a low-effort plant that looks beautiful indoors? It’s hard to beat the succulent. Equally at home in the arid outdoors as on your bedroom shelf, succulents require little care and are content in most environments. Once you get one established, you’ll enjoy gorgeous natural décor for years to come.

Here’s what you need to know about keeping a succulent healthy indoors.

What Are Succulents?

Succulents are a family of plants with thick, fleshy tissue. Cacti may be the most well-known type, but succulents vary considerably in size, coloring, leaf style, and growth habits. Some are known for their whimsical frills and coils, while others produce gorgeous flowers.

What all succulents have in common is that they tend to retain water, meaning they are well-suited to survive drought, low light conditions, and other environmental challenges. In fact, you can often find them growing in harsh environments outdoors, from freezing mountains to scorching deserts and even cliffs overlooking the ocean.

Ten Requirements for Healthy Succulents

The drive to survive in any condition makes succulents hard to kill off at home. Though growing succulents in your home is fairly easy, here are ten steps to ensure success.

1. Choose the Right Pot

The right growing space is essential for success with succulents. They withstand crowding well, so you can pack multiple varieties within one pot without a problem.

However, these plants don’t do well in waterlogged soil. Ensure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom to prevent excess moisture that will rot the roots.

2. Use the Correct Growing Medium

Planting succulents in a standard potting mix is a mistake because the soil will hold onto too much water. It’s better to choose a cactus mix or blend potting soil with coarse materials like sand, pumice, or perlite.

Take good care of the roots as you repot your succulents, as they tend to be fragile.

3. Give Them Lots of (Indirect) Light

Succulents need at least six hours of light each day. Keep them out of direct sunlight, though, as it can scorch their leaves and may cause your succulents to grow lopsided. Some growers place them near a window protected with a sheer curtain to reduce the light’s intensity.

4. Switch Locations Frequently

As with many plants, succulents tend to grow towards the sun. Fail to rotate them often, and you’ll be left with scraggly, uneven plants. Give your succulent pots a quarter turn every few weeks to promote even growth.

5. Water the Soil, Not the Succulent

While succulents need consistent watering, they don’t do well when the leaves get soaked. Too much moisture around the stem and leaves will quickly lead to mold.

A better watering option is to soak the soil directly by placing the pot in a pan with an inch or two of water. Leave it in place for at least ten minutes and remove it once the top of the soil feels wet. This means the water has soaked to the surface.

6. Follow the “Soak and Dry” Watering Approach

Keeping succulent roots overly wet will cause them to rot. The best approach is to allow the soil to completely dry out between watering sessions. It should feel dry to the touch throughout the whole pot.

While the best watering frequency will vary based on your indoor conditions, most succulent growers only need to do so once every two to three weeks. Use this time frame as a guideline and adjust as necessary.

7. Adjust Watering By the Season

Succulents need minimal water during their dormant season, so plan to water less frequently during the coldest months of the year. Likewise, you may need to water more often during periods of heavy growth.

8. Fertilize When Necessary

While succulents don’t need much fertilizer, they appreciate a light feeding in the spring at the start of their growing season. Remember that less is more—adding too much fertilizer will make the plants grow tall and spindly.

9. Keep the Leaves Clean

The fleshy leaves of succulents are known to collect dirt and debris within their crevasses. This is especially an issue when you avoid watering the leaves. Keep things clean by gently wiping down dirty leaves with a damp cloth or soft paintbrush. You should also snip off any dying stems and wilted leaves as soon as you see them.

10. Keep Things Pest-Free

Even indoors, insects are likely to find your succulents. Gnats, in particular, love to call them home, especially when the soil stays wet. You can avoid most pest problems by placing your plant in a place with good airflow and letting the soil dry out occasionally.

If you see signs of an infestation, remove any eggs you find on leaves and spray the soil with diluted isopropyl alcohol.

How to Propagate Succulents

One of the perks of growing succulents indoors is how easy it is to turn a single plant into dozens. Learning how to propagate succulents is a simple process. The process varies slightly depending on the type, but tender varieties like Sedums and Echeverias will regrow from a single leaf.

Start by gently twisting a leaf off the main stem so it breaks off cleanly, ideally pulling a bit of the stem off with it. Let the leaf dry out for one to three days so that it starts to shrivel and scab over. Skip this step, and the leaf will absorb too much water and rot.

Place the prepared leaves on top of the soil, making sure the twisted end isn’t touching it. Water the soil every time it feels dry, and the leaf will soon develop roots. While timelines will vary based on your indoor growing conditions, you should see signs of new growth within two to three weeks.

It’s possible to pull multiple leaves off your succulent at once to propagate numerous plants. With a little care and attention at the beginning stages, you will soon enjoy a house filled with hardy succulents.

How to Grow Cover Crops

Cover crops are a great way to restore your soil after a successful harvest. However, the whole process can be a bit overwhelming when just starting out. Here is a simple guide to get you started with cover crops.

If you’re looking for an all-natural way to protect your garden soil, improve its fertility, and prevent weeds from establishing, then you should add cover crops.

This easy cultivation strategy offers plenty of benefits but can feel overwhelming when you’re just beginning. Which plants are best for cover crops, and when should you sow them?

Here is a beginner’s guide that will teach you everything you need to know to start planting cover crops.

What is a Cover Crop?

By simple definition, a cover crop is a crop you plant without any intention of harvesting it. Their primary function is to protect the soil’s surface when it’s not growing something else. However, cover crops also give the soil a chance to recover and rebuild its nutrient stores.

Benefits of Cover Crops

There are many reasons to consider planting a cover crop. Below are a few of the most important benefits.

Gives the soil a nutritional boost: Soils become depleted with every harvest. Growing a cover crop and chopping it down in place puts nutrients back into the ground for the next season. Some cover crops even restore nitrogen or phosphorus to the soil.
Breaks up compacted soil: If you’re dealing with heavy soils, planting a cover crop with deep roots can break it up and aerate it. No heavy machinery required.
Protects soil from wind exposure and erosion: Bare soil is susceptible to erosion from wind and heavy rainfall. Planting it with a cover crop anchors it in place.
Prevents weeds: Cover crops grow quickly, meaning they shade out the soil and prevent weed seeds from germinating.
Food source for pollinators: Winter-planted cover crops, like clover, are often some of the first plants to flower in the spring. This makes them an ideal food source for bees and other insects that otherwise might struggle to find enough food early in the season.

Types of Cover Crops

There are three basic types of cover crops to choose from: grains, legumes, and broadleaves.

Grains

These crops grow quickly and build extensive root systems that break up compacted soil. Most are cold-hardy, so farmers can plant them in the fall for “harvesting” in the spring.

Common examples: annual grasses, rye, wheat, oats

Legumes

Commonly known as nitrogen fixers, legumes can produce up to 300 pounds of nitrogen per planted acre to give the next generation of crops a nutritional boost.

Common examples: peas, clover, vetch, soybeans

Broadleaves

These plants germinate quickly and produce big leaves that shade out weeds. Some, like buckwheat, help build up phosphorus, while others break up the soil with large taproots.

Common examples: mustard, buckwheat, alyssum

Sometimes it makes sense to plant a single cover crop over your empty garden bed. In other cases, it’s better to plant multiple species in one spot so the soil gets the full range of benefits. Once you know what your soil needs, you will be able to determine how many cover crops are needed to get the job done.

When and How to Plant a Cover Crop

As a general rule, it’s best to plant cover crops soon after you pull a harvest from a garden bed to minimize the time the soil stays bare. For cold-hardy crops meant to survive the winter, plant them at least one month before the expected first frost date.

Cover crops are almost always seeded directly into the ground. Start by tilling up the soil in the empty bed through the top four inches to remove any remaining vegetation. Smooth the ground with a hand rake until the surface is even. You can scatter the seed over the top by hand or use a seed spreader for larger spaces. Pay attention to the optimal application rate specified on the package.

Use the same rake to cover the seeds with soil. Some varieties, such as rye, require light to germinate and need to stay close to the surface. Others, like most legumes, need a deeper planting for germination.

Ensure the bed stays moist until you see signs of germination. This might require irrigation, but temperatures are often cool enough by the fall for the soil to remain wet after a heavy rain.

How to Harvest a Cover Crop

After planting, your cover crop should grow vigorously throughout the fall before becoming dormant during the winter. The crop should recover and pick up steam again by early spring.

The best time to deal with mature cover crops is a few weeks before spring planting. Ideally, this should be while the plant is flowering. Cover crops are the easiest to kill when in bloom, and they will break down fast without the risk of spreading weed seeds.

Cut the crop down by hand or with a mower, letting it fall onto the bed to decompose in place. You can till it into the soil after one week so that the nutrients become accessible in the ground for the next season’s planting.

It’s also possible to remove the cut cover crop foliage into a compost pile so it breaks down there instead. While this method might make things more organized around your garden, it creates extra work by making you move the compost back to the bed once it’s finished.

Three Questions for Determining the Best Cover Crop

There are dozens of plants that make perfect cover crops, so knowing which ones to choose for your garden can be challenging. Here are several essential questions to ask before starting.

1. How Will You Kill It?

Some cover crops, like clover, are easy to break down by hand. Others, like winter rye, will only die from mowing after it’s created a seed head but before these seeds are released. Have a plan in place for how you’ll kill off your crop so you don’t accidentally release new weeds into your garden.

2. What’s the Time Frame?

All cover crops take different amounts of time to mature. Pay attention to your timing in the growing season to ensure you plant a variety that will have time to get large before you cut it down.

3. What are You Growing Next?

Base your cover crop decision around what you plan to plant right after it. For example, heavy feeder crops like tomatoes will love following a nitrogen fixer like legumes, while winter rye residue releases chemicals that may prevent kale and broccoli seeds from sprouting.

Cover crops offer the opportunity to improve your garden soil naturally. Take time to do it right, and your off-season planting will ensure your garden gets better every year.

How to Plant Bulbs in the Fall

Bulbs are a great way to add dramatic impact to your garden. However, they require some preparation and forethought months before they even bloom. Here is everything you need to know about planting bulbs in the fall.

Few things add more pizzaz to a spring garden than the emergence of a swathe of brightly colored bulbs. Their appearance is almost an act of defiance to those cold gray winter months. Bulbs are generally quite forgiving of even the most careless of gardeners, and their appearance can give impact to the blandest of gardens.

However, unlike bedding plants, bulbs require a little extra forethought and preparation. Though bulbs bloom in the spring, they must be planted in the fall. This requires you to develop a plan and start prepping your garden months before you see any results.

Below is everything you need to know about planting bulbs in the fall. You will learn why fall planting is essential, how to plant bulbs properly, and potential problems that may arise.

Why You Should Plant Bulbs in Fall

So why should you plant bulbs in the fall? Wouldn’t it be easier to plant them in the spring, just before they bloom? Bulbs are unique in that they require cool temperatures to start the biochemical process that is in charge of flowering. Without exposure to cool temperatures, bulbs simply will not bloom.

It is best to plant bulbs in the fall before the ground freezes. At this point, the soil is cool enough to start the biochemical processes but is not so cold that it is difficult to plant. Some bulbs will do better if planted at the beginning of the season, while others will do better if planted right before frost. Do some research on your bulbs to make sure you plant them at the perfect time.

If you forget to plant in the fall, it doesn’t hurt to try later in the winter or early spring. However, your bulbs are less likely to bloom if planted late.

If you live in a warmer climate, you may need to pre-chill your bulbs in your refrigerator. Make sure to plant them during the coldest season of the year.

Purchasing Bulbs

Today, bulbs come in an enormous variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. It is easy to get a little overexcited when you arrive at a garden center and are exposed to hundreds of bulb varieties. Here are a few tips to prevent you from blowing your budget.

1. Have a Plan in Mind

Before you even head for the garden center, do a walkthrough of your garden and work out where bulbs would be appropriate and where they would offer the most impact.

2. Know Your Color Scheme

You may be tempted to chase the latest fad or buy bulbs in every color. At best, the result is you have a garden that doesn’t suit your personality or complement your other plants. At worst, you have a mismatched multicolored mess. Some people love that multi-colored effect and can organize it quite well, but in general, a scheme with just a few complementary colors packs the most punch.

3. Expensive Isn't Always Best

Just because something is more expensive does not mean it is the best option for your garden. For the same amount of money, you can buy one or two expensive bulbs or a bunch of cheaper, but just as good, regular bulbs. One or two bulbs will look out of place in your garden, but a group of bulbs will offer more impact.

Furthermore, spending less sometimes results in a better product. For example, cheaper bulbs are often much hardier than expensive bulbs. The bulbs may also offer colors and shapes that better complement other plants in your garden. Therefore, don’t dismiss something just because it’s cheap.

Tips for Planting Bulbs

Now that you’ve come up with a plan and chose your bulbs, it’s time to get to work! Though planting bulbs is fairly straightforward, here are a few tips to help you with the process.

Loosen the soil and mix in some compost or organic matter before planting.
Plant bulbs at a depth of two and a half to three times their height.
Plant bulbs twice as far apart as the width of the bulb.
Ensure that the base of the bulb (where the roots grow) is in contact with the soil by giving it a quarter turn as you place it in its hole.
Plant groups of bulbs together instead of just one or two here and there. This adds more impact to your garden.
Invest in a bulb planter that cuts out a perfect circle of soil. However, a trowel will do fine if you don't plant bulbs often.
Lightly water the bulbs after planting.
Add labels so you don't forget where you planted them.

Think Outside the Box

We are all accustomed to seeing drifts of daffodils or tulips in spring gardens, but bulbs can be used in other ways. One of these is to layer a pot with different types of bulbs so that they can grow on a patio or terrace.

First, find a nice deep pot that can fit multiple bulbs. Lay in 8 in (20 cm) of potting soil and then plant your larger bulbs at the bottom. Next, cover them with soil and then plant another layer of medium-sized bulbs on top of that. Finally, add a third layer of even smaller bulbs and cover those. The results can be breathtaking.

Not all bulbs need to remain outdoors to have an impact. Hyacinths and paperwhite daffodils can be brought into the house just before flowering. Many bulbs will flourish on a windowsill or bright shelf, so do some research to explore other indoor possibilities.

Potential Problems and Cautions

In the vast majority of cases, your bulbs will be trouble-free. Once planted, all you need to do is keep the area weed-free and wait for the explosion of color. However, there are a few things that you may need to take into consideration.

1. Squirrels

Squirrels are even more fond of bulbs than gardeners are. They love to dig up and destroy the bulbs that you worked so hard to plant and cultivate. However, there are a few methods that will prevent squirrels from destroying your bulb garden.

The first is to pa layer of fine chicken wire over the bulbs but just beneath the soil surface so that they cannot be dug up. The second is to grate some soap into the soil as you bury the bulbs. The smell confuses the culprits, and the taste puts them off.

2. Rot

Sometimes bulbs can rot prior to planting. Whether you are just purchasing new bulbs or are replanting bulbs you lifted the previous season, always examine them carefully before planting. They should be firm and blemish-free.

3. Improper Location

Improper location can kill your bulbs come springtime. For example, shade-loving bulbs planted in the open may find the position too bright. Likewise, sun-lovers planted beneath a tree will find themselves in deep shade come the spring.

One of the reasons that gardeners fail to make greater use of bulbs is that it requires some planning. Unlike bedding plants which you see, purchase, and pop into the ground, bulbs require you to envision the impact months in advance. However, with a bit of prep and planning, you can have a bulb garden that is dramatic and impactful.

How to Build a Simple Patio Space

A little planning and moderate construction skills are all you need to build a gorgeous outdoor patio space.

If you are willing to put in just a little time and effort, building a small patio space in your yard is an achievable goal. It’s true that building a patio requires some considerable forethought and a moderate amount of construction skill. But if you follow a reliable patio-building process, you can overcome those challenges and create a patio space that you and your loved ones can enjoy for years to come. To prepare for that kind of project, the following guide will serve you well.

Chose the Form and Location of Your Patio

A poorly planned patio construction project is likely to fail. So, as an essential first step, you will need to determine your new patio’s:

Choosing Your Patio's Location

Choose an area of your yard that is relatively flat and where a new patio would not conflict with any existing structures or utilities. Ideally, the area you choose will be highly accessible. This will make it easier to move construction materials in and out of the area. It will also make your patio more usable once completed.

Sizing Your Patio

Next, consider the size of your patio. The larger your patio is, the more costly and time-consuming it will be to construct. The benefit of a large patio is that it will serve many users once it’s finished.

Finding Your Patio's Form

Regarding shape, it’s best to keep it simple. Uncomplicated, rectangular forms are often the easiest to build. If you choose a curving shape, know that it may be difficult to cut your paver stones to match your intended shape.

Mark the Shape and Excavate

Once you know your patio’s shape and place, it’s time for you to mark your future patio space and begin excavation. Here are some quick steps that you can follow at this stage:

Later you will fill that depth with several layers of base material and your patio paver stones. It is helpful to know the dimensions of the pavers you wish to use as well as how many inches of base material you intend to lay. Let those figures be a loose guide during excavation.

You should also make sure to excavate an area that is about a half-foot wider in all directions than your intended patio shape. This tactic will help you complete the next step correctly. Once your excavation is complete, use a hand tamper to compact the soil within the excavated area to prevent unwanted settling.

Lay Patio Base Materials

Patio base materials help drain water and contribute to the overall longevity of your patio. There are many types of base materials that are useful in construction. But for the sake of building a simple patio, all you will need is a large-grain material such as crushed stone or pea stone and a fine-grain material such as sand. Once you have those materials, here is what you should do:

Fill the excavated area with about six to eight inches of your coarse material
Use an iron rake to smooth the surface
Compact the material with a hand tamper
Add a one- to two-inch layer of the fine-gain material
Smooth and level the surface as much as possible
Compact the material again with the hand tamper again
Smooth and level the surface again

Make each base material layer as level as possible. Also, your base materials should fill the entire excavated area, which is slightly larger than the patio itself. This will discourage erosion at the edge of the patio.

Lay Paver Stones

One of the easiest steps in this process is also one of the last. When laying pavers for a dry-laid patio, all you will need to do is place the pavers on the layers of sand. Again, make sure that the sand is level, then lay each paver stone on top of it in any pattern you like. Adjust the sand as needed to make sure that each new paver is level with the one you placed previously. A bubble level is a great tool to use during this stage.

As a final step, you should cover your patio area with sand and use a broom to sweep the sand between the paver joints. Next, spray the patio with your garden hose to encourage the sand to settle between the joints. Repeating this step until the joints are full of sand will promote long-term stability for your patio.

Complete Your Patio with Plants and Furniture

With all practical matters taken care of, it is time to embellish your new patio space. Plantings around your patio will enliven the space, while a nice set of patio furniture will make your patio a comfortable place for you and your friends to enjoy together for years to come.

A Few Excellent Patio Examples

By now, you have a good idea of how to create a simple dry-laid patio in your yard. You’re now ready for one of the more exciting aspects of designing your patio. Choosing the style and intended use for your patio is what will allow you to get the most out of the space. Here are a few ideas to spark your inspiration.

Outdoor Dining on Your Patio

If your patio is nearby your house, consider designating it as an outdoor eating space. The patio in the image below serves that role and is large enough to accommodate a table for six.

Grow a Patio Garden

A patio alone is nothing more than hardscape. If you want to enliven your patio area, the best approach you can take is to add plants. Use containers to grow some ornamental species and arrange them throughout your patio as you please.

Patios Are Great for Firepits

Firepits are one of the most sought-after residential landscape features. If you are one of the many homeowners who want one, why not incorporate a firepit into your new patio?

Relax By Treating Your Patio as a Lounge Space

The best backyard landscape designs permit you to expand your living spaces to the outdoors. Why not add a comfortable set of cushioned outdoor furniture to make your patio a place of repose?

Homemade Jam Recipes That Everyone Will Love

With just a bit of fruit, sugar, and lemon juice, you can make a tasty homemade jam that everyone will love. Here is a guide to making homemade jam, as well as a few recipes to get you started.

The best way to preserve all that delicious fruit that you’ve so lovingly grown is to make jam from it. Not only will you have some lovely homemade jam to have on your toast or scones, but you’ll more than likely have plenty of jars left over to give away to your family and friends.

Below is some basic information on how to make your own jam as well as a few recipes to get you started.

What Fruits Are Best For Making Jam?

Though you can make jam from almost any fruit, the best options have high amounts of pectin. Pectin is a starch that occurs naturally in many fruits and vegetables and helps your jam to set properly.

Fruits with high amounts of pectin include blueberries, raspberries, cherries, apples, pears, apricots, figs, peaches, oranges, and lemons. You can still make jam with low pectin fruits, such as strawberries, but you will need to add pectin to the recipe.

You also don’t have to settle with just one fruit for your jam recipe. Try mixing different fruits to come up with jams that have unique flavors and textures.

Other Important Ingredients

When you look at the recipes below, you should notice a pattern. Each jam recipe includes sugar and lemon juice. When making jam, it’s important to add some sweetness and acid to the mix.

Sugar (or other sweet substitutes) adds to the flavor. Some fruits can be quite tart, and a bit of sugar can balance the taste. Though we have recommended certain amounts in our recipes, put in as little or as much as you want.

Acid, which comes in the form of lemon juice, not only keeps the jam well-balanced but also activates the pectin in the fruit. Therefore, this is a crucial ingredient to get the right texture for your jam.

Homemade Jam Recipes

Now that you know the perfect equation for jam recipes, it’s time to start cooking! Below are some recipes for strawberry, fig, and apricot jams to get you started.

Strawberry Jam

There are many different strawberry jam recipes available and you may even have a favorite one that was handed down through your family.

If you’ve never made strawberry jam before, here’s a super simple recipe to get you started.

Ingredients:

Directions:

Wash and hull the strawberries.
Roughly chop the strawberries either in a food processor or by hand.
Using a large heavy-based pot or saucepan, put in the chopped strawberries, the sugar, and the lemon juice.
Gently cook this mixture over medium heat and stir often.
Turn off the heat when you start to see bubbles all over the surface.
Once cooled, pour the jam into some jars and refrigerate.

This easy jam will last in the refrigerator for about ten days. To store the jam for a longer period, you’ll have to preserve it using a canning kit or a water bath.

You can also ensure your jams stay preserved longer by pouring them into special canning jars that have new sealing rings. These rings allow the excess air to condense and create a vacuum which helps to preserve your jam. Make sure that you sterilize the jars and lids before using them.

Fig Jam

Growing figs requires a little patience as the trees can take a few years to start producing abundant fruit. However, once you have a mature fig tree in your garden, you’ll realize that it was all worth the wait.

Unfortunately, the fig harvesting season is quite short and we only get to enjoy fresh, juicy figs for a few weeks. What better way to keep that taste going than to make some fig jam?

Here’s a simple recipe to get you started.

Ingredients:

Directions:

Remove the stems from the figs and cut them into quarters.
Using a heavy-based pot or saucepan, add the figs, sugar, lemon juice, and vanilla.
Cook this mixture on medium heat and stir frequently until the sugar is dissolved.
Reduce the heat to a low setting and add the water.
Let the jam mixture continue to simmer until you see bubbles all over the surface.
Once cooled, pour the jam mixture into some nice jars and store them in the refrigerator.

Because of the higher sugar content, this jam should last about two months in the refrigerator. If you want to store it for longer, you’ll have to use a preserving method.

Apricot Jam

You know that spring has arrived when your apricot tree starts blossoming. Apricot trees are so easy to grow and will provide you with lots of delectable fruit sooner than you might think.

If you plant your tree in winter or early spring after the frosts have left, you should get a small amount of fruit the following year in the summer. After that, be prepared, because you’ll most likely get quite a bumper crop.

All that lovely, juicy fruit tends to ripen all at once which means you have to pick it if you don’t want the birds getting it all.

Thankfully, when you have an abundance of apricots, you can make delicious apricot jam. Here’s a quick apricot jam recipe we found that is easy and only uses three ingredients.

Ingredients:

Directions:

Wash the apricots, remove the stones, and cut them into quarters.
In a heavy-based pot or saucepan, add the apricots and the sugar.
Cook over medium heat and stir frequently.
Continue to simmer the mixture for about 10 to 15 minutes.
Stir in the lemon juice and remove from the heat.
When the jam has cooled a little, pour into some fancy jars and refrigerate.

As with the other recipes, if you want to keep your jam for longer, you will need to find another preservation method.

There’s nothing better than picking lovely fresh fruit from your garden to enjoy. But, if you have a bumper crop, then you can simply make some jam to enjoy long after your trees have finished fruiting.

Flower of the Week: Hibiscus

Rose of China (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is one of the most common tropical hibiscuses. Often found in warm and hot regions, it’s an evergreen flowering plant with a long history of cultivation. The flowers of Rose of China are large and gorgeous, with trumpet-shaped petals and long, conspicuous stamens clustered into a single bundle that extends beyond the petals.

The most common Roses of China have flowers in red, white, and pink, but with years of hybridization and selection by horticulturists, the colors of these tropical hibiscus cultivars now come in a rich variety. You can easily find varieties in yellow, orange, light purple, and variegated colors, as well as double varieties.

The Mystery of Its Origins

Today, Roses of China can be found everywhere at any given time of year. Besides being traditionally and widely planted in the Indochina Peninsula and Malaysia, Roses of China are also found in Pacific islands such as Fiji and Hawaii. It’s also cultivated in large quantities in Florida and California in the US, as well as Australia.

However, with such a widely-familiar species, we have no way to determine the plant’s definitive origin. Because we haven’t found credible wild populations of tropical hibiscus to date, we can at best infer that they most likely originated from tropical Asia based on the information available.

A Symbol of the Tropical Islands

Rose of China has long been a cultural icon, appearing on posters, billboards, and Hawaiian shirts. Once you see it, you’ll think of turquoise seas and blue skies, or sandy beaches and indigenous women with hula skirts on their waists. Additionally, many countries and tropical island regions have also adopted it as their symbol.

In the Pacific region, Malaysia, Solomon Islands, and Niue have all chosen the red Rose of China as their national flower. In the Caribbean Sea on the other side of the Americas, Haiti and Puerto Rico also use Rose of China as their national symbols.

Hawaii’s state flower was originally a white tropical hibiscus, but over time a change was made to go with a native Hawaiian species of the same genus. In the end, the state settled on the yellow Ma’o hau hele (Hibiscus brackenridgei) as Hawaii’s official state flower in 1988.

What's the Connection with Shoes?

Among the array of English colloquial names for Rose of China, “shoeblack plant” (or even simply “shoe plant”) is particularly distinctive. It’s so-called because in South Asia, especially India, it’s a tradition to polish shoes with the flowers of hibiscus.

Not only can the flowers of hibiscus wipe dirt and dust off of shoe surfaces, but the crushed flower petals also contain substances that can dye shoes more black. Truthfully, the flowers of hibiscus dyed far more than simply leather shoes a century ago. Historical archives indicate that Rose of China was used as a cosmetic to darken women’s hair and eyebrows in the past in Southeast Asia and Southern China.

Can I Grow Rose of China Well?

Rose of China is easy to cultivate as long as it’s in a suitable climate zone. Because it is of tropical origin, it’s not cold-resistant and needs to be strictly kept from frost damage. For open-field planting, USDA zones 10-11 or zones to their south are safe for it to overwinter, while protective measures are required in Zones 9 and below. Rose of China likes light and does not tolerate shade well, so when planting it in the garden try to choose a south-facing area with ample light (and avoid wind vents). To pot Rose of China, the placement of the pot should change according to the season to ensure sufficient light. Otherwise, the flower buds will not sprout or will easily fall out.

Rose of China likes moist soil. Water it regularly to keep the soil moist, usually once a day in the morning. Water once in the morning and once in the evening under hot and dry weather. From March to early September, apply compound fertilizer (10-10-10) to the plant while watering it, and follow the instructions regarding the amount of fertilizer needed. For open-field planting, fertilizing once every half-month is good, while for potted hibiscus, fertilizing once a month at half the concentration the instructions suggest will suffice.

Rose of China is pruning-resistant and has a strong branching ability. The old stems should be shortened to half their lengths and the old branches shortened to two-thirds their lengths before the early spring budding to maintain the shape of the plant. With proper management, open-field-grown Roses of China can keep blooming all year round, and the flowering season of potted hibiscus can last from spring to late fall.

Size: 1.2-3 m tall, 1.5-2.5 m wide

Hardiness: USDA Hardiness Zones 9-11

Sunlight: Full sun to half-shade

Soil: Fertile, moist, good drainage required

Bloom time: All year round

12 Spectacular Fall-Color Trees

When the days grow shorter and the air gets cooler, our disappointment is tempered by the stunning color show of autumnal foliage. If you’re a fan of vivid fall colors, consider the trees on this list for the next addition to your yard. Each one ignites with brilliant color as the seasons change.

Sweetgum

Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua) is a medium-to-large tree native to warm temperate regions of North and Central America. It puts on a brilliant autumn display – the leathery star-shaped foliage turns orange, red, and burgundy, with multi-colored individual leaves. Decorative foliage and an elegant straight trunk earned Sweetgum a prominent place in parks and treelines around the world.

River birch

The River birch is a fast-growing tree that thrives in wet environments like floodplains, bottomland and along creeks and streams. It is a native of the Eastern United States. The River birch reaches heights from 50-90 ft tall and grows an average of 3 ft per year.

Sugar maple

Acer saccharum, commonly known as Sugar maple is a deciduous flowering tree native to North America. Sugar maple’s xylem sap is used for making maple syrup – a popular food condiment and sweetening agent in North America. The most notable quality of this plant is its bright leaves, which turn deep red during fall.

European beech

European beech (Fagus sylvatica) is a large deciduous tree often used for ornamental purposes. European beech tends to out-compete other tree species, due to its dense canopy and tolerance to shade. Its wood is highly valued and has a very diverse use, including making furniture, musical instruments, for construction, as firewood, charcoal, and plywood.

Honey locust

Gleditsia triacanthos is a deciduous tree that is native to the Central part of Noth America. The trunk of the Honey locust is covered in thorns that are soft and green when young, but age to be hard and brittle. These thorns are relatively large and can reach up to 8 inches in length.

Smoke tree

Smoke tree is a deciduous tree native to Southern Europe and Central China. The flowers of the
Smoke tree are pinkish-purple and long-lasting. They grow in clusters along branches and give a smoky appearance to the tree when in bloom. In China, they are used as important fall decorations due to their foliage turn bright red in the fall.

Black gum

Nyssa sylvatica, commonly known as Black gum and tupelo, is a deciduous tree native to eastern regions of North America. It is a medium-sized tree, often cultivated as an ornamental in parks due to the beautiful scarlet color of its autumn leaves.

Quaking aspen

Quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides) is a tree native to North America also commonly referred to as the trembling aspen or the golden aspen. Quaking aspen is the state tree of Utah in the United States. In the wild, Quaking aspen attracts quail, beavers, rabbits, deer, sheep, and goats.

Red osier dogwood

Red osier dogwood is a thicket-forming shrub with attractive dark red winter stems. This plant produces yellow flowers in early summer and fruit late in the fall. Over ninety-eight species of birds rely on this plant for food or shelter. Native Americans used Red osier dogwood branches to weave baskets.

Japanese maple

There is no plant that symbolizes the traditional Japanese garden better than the Japanese maple (Acer palmatum). This small deciduous tree or a shrub native to East Asia can grow up to around 10 m, but it is often kept smaller. Japanese maple is loved for its artistic-quality canopy with brilliant red autumn leaves. It is also commonly grown as a bonsai.

Fragrant sumac

Fragrant sumac (Rhus aromatica) is a tree species native to southern Canada and all of the United States except Florida. While the leaves are similar in appearance to poison ivy, Fragrant sumac is not poisonous.

Shagbark hickory

Shagbark hickory (Carya ovata) is a hickory tree native to the United States and Canada. Shagbark hickory grow edible nuts that have a sweet taste. Andrew Jackson, a famous historical United States president, was nicknamed old hickory after the tree which has tough wood.

15 Beautiful Yellow Summer and Autumn-Blooming Wildflowers to See

Check out the spectacular splash of yellow in the outdoor space with our list of the most beautiful yellow summer and autumn-blooming wildflowers. These beauties will surely uplift your mood as the season changes.

Evening-primrose

Evening-primrose is an herbaceous perennial plant recognized by its yellow flowers which open in the evening and close again at sunrise. It is often cultivated as a decorative plant, especially in drought-prone areas. Native Americans cooked Evening-primrose roots as a food source but it’s said that consumption of this plant could cause headaches and diarrhoea.

Canada goldenrod

Solidago canadensis, colloquially known as Canada goldenrod, is a perennial herb native to North America. This plant can be found growing in a variety of different habitats and it often forms colonies. In many parts of Europe and East Asia, Canada goldenrod is considered an invasive species.

Black-eyed susan

The Black-eyed susan is a flowering black and yellow plant with curving leaves. It is culturally important in the Southern U.S., and is often used to attract butterflies to gardens. It long ago spread throughout North America and much of the world. Black-eyed susan is the state flower of Maryland and was important in the history of the University of Southern Mississippi.

Yellow toadflax

Yellow toadflax (Linaria vulgaris) is a flowering toadflax species native to Europe and Central Asia. The plant gets its unusual nickname from the yellow color of its flowers. The Yellow toadflax is mildly toxic for livestock to consume. Because of the curved, semi-closed shape of its flowers, it needs strong pollinators like bumblebees.

Smooth hawksbeard

The Smooth hawksbeard is distributed throughout Africa and the Northern hemisphere. This common weed is most often found alongside roadways, in vacant lots, or other neglected areas. The bright yellow flowers attract certain flies and moths, while the seeds can be a food source for some birds.

Dusty miller

Dusty miller (Jacobaea maritima subsp. maritima) is an evergreen perennial plant native to the Mediterranean region. Another common name for Dusty miller is silver ragwort. Dusty miller is widely used in ornamental horticulture because of its pleasing silvery look and texture.

Giant goldenrod

Giant goldenrod (Solidago gigantea) is an herb in the sunflower family. It is widespread in the central and eastern United States and Mexico. Giant goldenrod is found in a variety of natural habitats and nature landscaping cultivation throughout the United States and grows in moderately moist soils. It is the state flower in Kentucky and Nebraska.

Meadow buttercup

Meadow buttercup (Ranunculus acris) is a flowering plant native to Europe. It has gained many nicknames related to its yellow flowers and ubiquity in meadow-like environments. Meadow buttercup is moderately toxic to both humans and livestock.

Common tansy

Common tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) is a plant native to Europe and Asia. The Common tansy has been introduced in other global regions and is sometimes considered to be an invasive species. The Common tansy can be used as a substitute for sage.

Shrubby cinquefoil

Shrubby cinquefoil (Dasiphora fruticosa) is a plant species that is also referred to by the alternative latin name Potentilla fruticosa. The Shrubby cinquefoil is very popular in Japan for use as a bonsai tree. 14 cultivars of this species have received the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit.

Cutleaf evening primrose

Cutleaf evening primrose (Oenothera laciniata) is a biennial flowering shrub that only blooms at night. The Cutleaf evening primrose’s blossoms close up again by noon the following day. This species is native to the eastern United States.

Rubber rabbitbrush

Rubber rabbitbrush (Ericameria nauseosa) is a member of the aster family and a relative of sagebrush. This shrub grows 2 to 5 feet tall. Each of its numerous flower heads consists of five tiny golden tube-shaped flowers. The stems of this species range from green to white. Native Americans used this plant to make yellow dye.

Moth mullein

Moth mullein (Verbascum blattaria) is a biennial plant that grows in wastelands and farms. It resembles an orchid with white or yellow flowers that are clustered along the stalk. It multiplies rapidly and is considered an invasive weed. Plant parts have been used for centuries as a natural cockroach repellent. Grows from 1 to 3 feet tall.

Yellow jewelweed

Yellow jewelweed (Impatiens pallida) is a plant species that grows in Canada and the United States in wet soils. Yellow jewelweed blooms during midsummer and through the fall. Its flowers are almost completely pollinated by bees, which are attracted to their nectar.

Autumn hawkbit

Autumn hawkbit (Scorzoneroides autumnalis) is also called “Autumn Hawkbit.” It’s native to Eurasia, but was brought to North America. Its common name references its resemblance to the common dandelion.