Page 149

The Four Best Flowers for Scorpio and What They Mean

As a Scorpio, you are a very intense and focused person who is often misunderstood. You need flowers that match your incredible personality. Here are four flowers that symbolise the best traits found in Scorpios.

Born between October 23rd and November 21st? Then you’re a Scorpio! Represented by the scorpion, Scorpio is ruled by both Mars and Pluto. Your element is water, and your mantra is “I transform.”

As a Scorpio, you’re an investigator. While you love dealing with people, you don’t go for idle small talk. You want to know what makes them tick, their secrets, the things that lie beneath the surface.

But that doesn’t mean you’re heartless. You may be obsessed with the dark and taboo, but you’re also sensitive, empathetic, and compassionate. Since you don’t fear the darkness, you are a great friend and companion to others exploring their own shadows. Just be careful not to overwhelm them with your intensity.

The best flowers for you, dear Scorpio, are ones that match your intense personality. Below are four flowers that symbolise the best Scorpio traits.

Geranium for Secrets

The many-petalled geranium has many angles while hiding the underside of their petals. It symbolises both expected and unexpected meetings. Likewise, just as people think they know who you are, you show another unexpected side of yourself. Unlike others, you’re not afraid to show the dark side of yourself, although you’re selective of which side of yourself you present in a situation.

Geraniums are as easy to grow in a container as in the ground, so long as they have drainage holes, lots of sun, and protection from the wind. If you grow them in a container, you can bring them inside to brighten up your home during the winter. There are over 300 species of geraniums, so there’s sure to be at least one species that catches your eye.

In flower arrangements, geraniums are versatile go-to cut flowers. All you really need to do is cut a few from your garden and place them in a jar for a beautiful arrangement.

Peony for Honour

In China and Japan, peonies are known as the king of flowers. They symbolise nobility, honour, and wealth. Just because you know someone’s secrets doesn’t mean you’re going to reveal them. With such single-minded concentration, Scorpios are likely to gather wealth and come into positions of power.

Peonies are a stunning perennial addition to add to your garden. They bloom throughout the late spring and early summer, although you can find early and late blooming varieties as well. They need a few years to grow before they bloom, but they thrive with benign neglect.

Since peonies are naturally stunning, you can create a beautiful arrangement with little fuss. Buy or cut peonies before the bud opens so that you can fully experience them opening up. You will also get to enjoy them for more than a few days. Use a small-lipped vase or tape a grid over the opening to keep peonies standing tall for the best arrangement.

Chrysanthemum for Friendship

People mistakenly take a Scorpios’ intensity, lack of social small talk, and take it or leave it attitude as a lack of compassion for others. Chrysanthemums are a symbol that they are dead wrong. They represent love, friendship, and fidelity. Once you make a friend, you make a friend for life. Your friends’ dark sides are more likely to attract you closer than scare you off, making you an invaluable friend.

Chrysanthemums bloom well into autumn, long past when other flowers have quit for the year, which may appeal to your competitive side. Depending on where you live, they may even last until your birthday. Select a hardy variety for an easy-to-grow addition to your flower garden.

When arranging chrysanthemums, remove the leaves from the stems and cut the stems to different heights for movement. Once you’ve got the chrysanthemums where you want them, add other flowers like roses and lilies.

Amaranth for Immortality

Amaranth represents immortality because even after it dies, it keeps its beauty and freshness. That’s not to say that you’re immortal, dear Scorpio, only that while others may fade in the same pursuits as you, you continue with single-minded determination.

Amaranth is given to others to represent unfading affection and eternal love for the recipient. Once you make a friend, you make a friend for life.

You can grow amaranth as both a beautiful focal point in your garden and for its edible seeds. Wait until the soil warms up to sow the seeds. When you see birds pecking at the seeds, it’s ready to harvest.

Amaranth’s ability to keep its beauty even after being dried makes it the perfect addition to autumn and winter holiday arrangements. Unlike other flowers that stand up straight, amaranth drapes over the side of the vase like a waterfall effect. Pair with other dried fronds for a unique centrepiece.

Celebrate yourself or your favourite Scorpio by planting or arranging one of these four Scorpio birth flowers.

How to Grow Fresh Herbs Indoors

Growing an indoor herb garden is a fun and rewarding experience. It is also a great way to have access to fresh herbs whenever you want them. This article will provide you with useful tips to help you get started growing your own herbs indoors.

Introduction

Herbs serve as a main source of seasonings in our daily food preparation. They have been cultivated by humans for thousands of years and have been a staple in foods all around the globe. Growing an indoor herb garden is a great way to have access to fresh herbs whenever you want them. In this article, we will look at some useful tips on how to grow herbs indoors.

Things Needed to Start an Indoor Herb Garden

1. Herbs: Not only do you need to decide which herbs to grow but if you want to start from seed or from a plant.

2. Containers: You can use about any kind of container as long as it has good drainage. Make sure to put something under it to catch any excess water.

3. Fertilizer: All plants thrive in nutrient-rich soil, and indoor herbs are no different. Consider adding some fertilizer to give your herbs a boost.

4. Labels: If you are growing multiple herbs, you may want to invest in some labels. Otherwise, you may have a tough time identifying your plants later in the growing season.

Location

Most herbs are easy to grow, but location is still very important. Many herbs prefer a sunny location and very few like to grow in partial shade. Therefore, it is best to place your herbs in a south or west window where they can get six to eight hours of sun each day. Your plants need plenty of sunlight to produce the maximum amount of the herb’s oil, which contributes to their flavor.

If you don’t have access to a sunny location, then use a grow light or fluorescent light as a supplement.

Drainage

One of the most important aspects of growing an indoor herb garden is drainage. Good drainage will make sure your herbs are not sitting in water. Furthermore, make sure to only provide enough water that a small amount comes out onto the bottom drainage container. Too much water can lead to molding and root rot. Allow the herbs to dry moderately between watering.

Preparation

Herbs will grow in any good garden soil but putting them in a growing media with peat, perlite, or vermiculite, works quite well. Your soil should not be too acidic or too alkaline. A pH between 6.5 and 7.0 will grow the best herbs. If the soil is highly fertile, it tends to produce too much foliage that does not taste very good. Add ground limestone into your soil to lower the acidity and take care of any unwanted pests. Ground limestone repels many pests because it dries out their exoskeletons.

The Best Herbs to Grow Indoors

Certain plants flourish better indoors than other herbs, so choose your starter varieties carefully. The following are some of the best herbs to grow if you are planting an indoor garden:

Basil: Comes in many varieties such as Italian Large Leaf for a milder taste or Thai for a bolder flavor.
Chamomile: Very fragrant and soothing, chamomile is grown mostly for relaxing nighttime teas. It can also be used in conjunction with other herbs that help in relaxation.
Chives: These useful herbs are super easy to grow and add a delicate onion-like flavor to any dish.
Cilantro: A spicy addition to Mexican cuisine, curries, soups, salads, and many other dishes. In the US, cilantro pertains to the leaves, and coriander pertains to the seeds.
Lavender: Lavender has a calming effect like chamomile and can be combined in a tea or for potpourri or perfumes.
Mint: Fast-growing herb for the summertime. Uses range from drinks to veggies to chewing gum.
Oregano: Has a strong earthy flavor and is used for many different cuisines such as Italian and Mexican dishes. Loves sunshine and little water.
Rosemary: A useful herb that is also known as “the upside-down plant”, as it likes to have its roots dry as it soaks up moisture from the air. Loves full sun and proper drainage.

Flower of the Week: Chrysanthemum

In late fall when everything begins to wither, vibrant chrysanthemums continue to bloom in gardens. This beautiful flower is a perennial herb of Asteraceae. It is native to Asia and Northern Europe, with many diverse varieties originating from China. The rich flower patterns and wonderful colors, as well as the wide application in landscape architecture and cut-flower market, make chrysanthemum the queen of September.

Place of Interest

As the origin of the chrysanthemum, East Asia has a long history of cultivating ornamental varieties of this flower. If you wish to see spectacular chrysanthemum scenery, a trip to East Asia is definitely a good choice.

1. Florist's Daisy, Kasama, Japan

Kasama’s Kiku Matsuri is undoubtedly one of the most influential festivals dedicated to celebrating the viewing and blooming of chrysanthemum in Japan. The event dates back to 1890, making it the oldest chrysanthemum festival in the country. Every year from mid-October to late November, 600,000 tourists go to Kasama and visit the Kasama Inari Shrine where 10,000 pots of chrysanthemums are displayed. The shrine is open daily from 8:30 am to 4:30 pm.

There is also a special area where you can pay to see an incredible exhibition of indoor mannequins dressed as important historical figures in Japan. The mannequins are covered in blooming chrysanthemums.

2. The Beijing Chrysanthemum Festival, China

Chrysanthemum is one of four famous traditional flowers in China. The Beijing Chrysanthemum Festival is held in several major parks in Beijing every fall. Beihai Park and the International Flower Port are two of the best spots to see thousands of beautiful chrysanthemum varieties. The famous Chrysanthemum exhibition in Beihai Park has been held more than 20 consecutive times and mainly features Pinzhong Chrysanthemum, Cliff Chrysanthemum, Desk Chrysanthemum, Bonsai Chrysanthemum, and a flower art exhibition. Additionally, chrysanthemum variety competitions also take place throughout the exhibition.

The event takes place from November 1 to 21. One entrance ticket provides the holder access to the entire exhibition. Besides the Chrysanthemum Exhibition, you can also visit other historical parts of Beihai Park.

The wisdom of evolution

The blooming of a chrysanthemum represents fall, but if you think what you see is just a chrysanthemum, you are wrong.

Like other plants in the Chrysanthemum genus, chrysanthemum is a compound flower. This means that the flower head of the chrysanthemum is composed of many independent sessile flowers, including the outer ligules and the central disc florets. The outer ligules are the “petals” we see and are usually asexual that can’t bear fruit. The disc florets in the middle can produce both pollen and fruit, which makes it hermaphroditic.

These small, single florets could be easily missed by insects the plant needs to come by and pollinate. As a result, the chrysanthemum has evolved so that many small florets gather into flower heads to make the florets appear larger. Especially when the outer ligules on the edge open, this makes the flower heads more eye-catching, attracting more insects.

However, with the artificial breeding of chrysanthemum over many years, various varieties have more ligulate florets. More often than not, we can’t really spot the central disc florets.

Chrysanthemum in Oriental culture

Most chrysanthemums originated from China, and records of the flower reach as far back as 500 BC. In China, the chrysanthemum has a very deep historical and cultural background. It is a symbol of indifference and seclusion. Oriental hermits who are tired of worldly fame and wealth plant them in their solitary villages. In addition, because chrysanthemum is almost the last blooming flower in fall as it prepares for cold weather, Chinese people also think that it represents the quality of bravery and tenacity.

Chrysanthemum’s full blooming season comes at the same time as the season for crabs. There is a custom of eating crabs and enjoying chrysanthemum in the Jiangnan area of China.

Ren Bonian (1840-1896) the painting of drinking with crab claws

Chrysanthemum was introduced into Japan from China in the 8th century. It was originally used as medicine and a symbol of longevity. A few centuries later, in the Kamakura era, the “ichimonji” type became the official symbol of the Japanese royal family. The corolla of this chrysanthemum has 16 petals. Japanese passports also have such chrysanthemum patterns, but the outermost layer is missing. Up to now, chrysanthemum is still a common pattern of Japanese traditional art such as that found on porcelain, lacquer, and kimono.

The family emblem of the Japanese royal family – 16 petals and eight layers of chrysanthemum.

In East Asia, fresh chrysanthemum flowers are dried to make chrysanthemum tea or for consumption. Japanese chefs will use small chrysanthemums as a side dish to sashimi, whereas in Guangdong, China they add fresh chrysanthemum into snake soup to enhance its fragrance.

Chrysanthemum Tea

America's queen of fall flowers, Europe's flower of death

Chrysanthemum was first introduced to the United States during the colonial period because of its easy cultivation, variety of flower types, and colors. Its popularity grows day by day, so that chrysanthemum is now indisputably the “Queen of Fall Flowers”. Chrysanthemum is also the largest commercially produced flower in the United States and the most widely cultivated potted plant.

Chrysanthemum cultivation farm

However, an interesting contrast to many Americans’ positive feelings about chrysanthemum (which is displayed at athletic games and used as housewarming gifts), in many European countries the chrysanthemum is called the flower of death. In countries such as Belgium and Austria, chrysanthemums are used almost exclusively as commemorative bouquets on tombs.

White chrysanthemums are often used as the flowers for funerals

Can I grow a decent chrysanthemum?

If it is properly taken care of, chrysanthemums can bloom continuously from fall to early winter. How do you keep your garden full of delightful chrysanthemums blooming and safe from pests? Read and practice the following tips carefully, and you will reap flowers that your neighbors will soon envy.

First, try to plant your chrysanthemum in spring so that it has a whole season to grow. This is especially helpful for the growth of the root system. Your chrysanthemum may bloom early in summer, but you can nip off these buds so that the plant will bloom with more graceful flowers in fall.

Chrysanthemum can be propagated by sowing, cutting, and branching. The most effective method is branching. In spring, you can divide a chrysanthemum that has been growing for more than two years, but take care to avoid damage to the root. It is also very important to change pots for chrysanthemums. The root systems of chrysanthemums grow very fast. If a pot is not changed for a long time, the root system will become crowded and have a hard time retaining water. Choose a larger pot than the original one and gently break up the root system while trying not to damage it for repotting.

Size: Two to three feet tall

Hardiness: Zones 3 through 9

Sunlight: Full sun

Soil: Rich and moist, slightly acidic to neutral

Bloom time: Late summer and fall

How to Prepare Garden Beds for Winter

Before the end of fall, there are a few important tasks you should take care of to keep your garden beds in top condition. This article will show you a few tips to prepare your garden beds for winter so they are ready to thrive again next spring.

Winter is not the first season that comes to mind when most people think of gardening. However, the coldest months of the year are an important time for garden beds, and there are some steps you should take to prepare your garden for winter. In this article, we’ve collected seven of the best tips for pre-winter garden care. Follow these methods to keep your garden healthy through the winter so that it can thrive again once the warm weather arrives.

1. Remove Dead Plants

By the end of the growing season, you’ll notice that there are many dead plants lying in your garden beds. Your first winter prep step is to remove these spent plant materials. Dead plants that are left to rot can harbor fungus and bacteria that will afflict your living plants in the following growing season. Take time to collect this dead plant matter to avoid any of those problems in the future. That way, you can worry less about treating plants that have contracted diseases or infestations.

2. Clean Up Fallen Leaves

If you live in a region with plenty of deciduous trees, then you are used to seeing many leaves fall to the ground each fall. You likely have spent many hours cleaning up those leaves too. Remember that raking leaves is not just a matter of neatness. It is also a way to prevent problems from arising in your garden bed. As is the case with dead plants in general, fallen leaves will decay and can begin to foster fungus and mold. On the plus side, the leaves you collect will often be a great addition to your compost pile.

3. Prune Your Perennials

One of the top reasons people like to add perennials to their gardens is that they are highly ornamental while being relatively low-maintenance. But that does not mean that perennial plants do not need any attention at all. Late fall is a great time for you to cut back many perennials in your garden. At that time of year, the above-ground parts of the plant are usually dead. Removing those parts of the plant makes your beds look cleaner and will also encourage your perennials to grow back more vigorously next year.

4. Do One Last Weeding

It may seem permissible to leave the weeds in your garden beds to die during the winter. After all, there is little chance that those unwanted plants will survive in the cold. However, this is not an ideal approach. While those weeds will die off when the frost arrives, they may leave behind seeds. Next spring, those seeds will sprout new weeds for you to remove. If you want to save yourself some weeding time in the spring, incorporate one last weeding into your winter garden-bed prep.

5. Add Soil Amendments

If you have followed this advice so far, you should be looking at a garden bed that is relatively empty. This is an excellent opportunity to add amendments to your soil. With so few plants in the way, you should have no struggle applying compost or manure to all parts of your garden bed. Enriching your soil before winter may not help your plants immediately. But adding soil amendments in the fall will provide the roots of your plants with as many nutrients as they need once they begin to grow again in spring.

6. Spread a Layer of Mulch

One of the most beneficial aspects of mulch is that it helps regulate the temperature of the soil it covers. In summer, it is easy to see that without such regulation, the soil can quickly become too hot. Winter can also prove to be a tumultuous time for soil. With the potential for multiple freezes and thaws and the occasional warm spell, the temperature and moisture levels of the soil in your garden bed can greatly fluctuate. A mulch layer helps keep soil conditions a bit more consistent. Organic mulch has the added benefit of breaking down into organic matter that will increase the nutrient content of your soil.

7. Plant Bulbs for Spring

This final step may be the most exciting one. If you wish to see your garden burst into spring with incredible flowers, then you should plant some bulbs in the fall. There are many types of flower bulbs that you can and should plant at this time of year.

After planting them, all you will need to do is wait for spring to return, and you will have a garden bed that is full of color.

How to Make Your Poinsettia Rebloom in Christmas

Are you interested in learning how to make your poinsettia rebloom for Christmas? It involves a bit of patience and diligence, but with the right timing of light and darkness, you can easily have a houseplant that brightens up just in time for the holidays.

Since the early 1800s, poinsettias have been considered the quintessential holiday plant and have become a symbol of Christmas. However, most people throw their poinsettias out after the holidays, only to buy a new one the following year. However, with proper care, you can have the same poinsettia rebloom year after year.

There are multiple benefits to keeping the same poinsettia. First of all, you’ll save money by not repurchasing these plants every single year. You also get the benefit of having a beautiful plant year-round instead of just a few weeks.

To have your poinsettia bloom again next year, you will need to start prepping the plant as soon as the holidays are over. Treat your poinsettia like it is a year-round houseplant instead of just a holiday plant. By caring for your poinsettia properly throughout the year, you are setting it up for a great reblooming success for next Christmas.

Caring for Your Poinsettia After Christmas

Your poinsettia’s needs will vary depending on the season. Knowing this is half the battle to keeping your poinsettia happy all year round. The following is everything you need to know about caring for your poinsettia after the holidays are over.

Winter and Early Spring

The first thing to do after the holidays is to remove the foil wrap around the plant. This foil is usually included on storebought poinsettias and, while it is attractive and decorative, it shouldn’t be left in place for more than a few days. It can cause the plant container to trap water, especially if it doesn’t have any holes. Like most plants, poinsettias need proper drainage to avoid water accumulation. This prevents issues, such as root rot, from occurring.

Place your poinsettia near a west- or south-facing window, where it will receive some sunlight during the day. A bit of filtered or indirect sunlight is ideal. Water whenever the top inch of soil is dry, as it is important to keep the soil moist throughout this phase.

Spring and Summer

Once the danger of frost has passed in late spring, you can move your poinsettia outside. Put it in a location where it will receive strong morning sunlight. Cut the plant’s stems to about six inches tall but make sure some leaves are left in place.

New shoots will begin to grow, and as they do, you can pinch them back to encourage a bushier, healthier growth. Water just as you did when the plant was growing indoors, but keep in mind that you may have to irrigate container-grown plants more frequently when they are placed outside. It’s hotter and windier, after all.

You may also need to fertilize, using an all-purpose fertilizer designed for container plants, about once every two weeks. The fertilizer will help stimulate new growth.

You can leave your poinsettia in the container – a good option for growers with unpredictable temperature swings – or you can plant it directly in the ground. The choice is yours. If you choose to keep it in a container, you may need to repot it in a larger vessel to further encourage its growth.

Prepping Your Poinsettia to Rebloom for Christmas

Once temperatures start to get cooler (around 40℉ at night), it’s time to bring your poinsettia back inside. This is the period of time that is most crucial for a poinsettia to survive and bloom during another Christmas.

In fall, poinsettias need 14 hours of continuous darkness and 10 hours of bright light. Because of this, it’s not a good idea to put your poinsettia in a frequently used living area. You need a spot where people will not turn on lights, not even for a brief period of time. Even things as seemingly small as lights from car headlights or the television can throw things off.

Your poinsettia should be kept in these lighting conditions for about two months. After this cycle, the colored bracts will start to appear. Keep in mind that the flower color might differ from what you purchased since some poinsettias are colored or dyed. Keep watering and fertilizing as you did during the rest of the growing season.

Follow these tips, and you should have a poinsettia that reblooms just in time for Christmas. Successful care of your poinsettia ensures that your plant will thrive and bloom during the holidays for years to come.

A Quick Guide to Late Season Landscape Care

An attentive gardener performs landscape maintenance tasks throughout the entire year. Fall is a great time to perform chores that will prepare your landscape for the winter and help it thrive next spring. Here is a guide to late-season landscape care.

An attentive gardener performs landscape maintenance tasks throughout the entire year. While there is work you can do during all twelve months, the majority of your efforts will unfold during the growing season spanning from spring through summer.

However, for the best garden results, it is crucial to continue your care into the fall as well. To do so successfully, you need to know which chores are most beneficial at this time of year. This article will help you finish the season strong with a quick guide on late-season landscape care.

Prune Woody Plants and Perennials

It is common practice to prune plants at the start of the year during spring. This approach is popular because it proves to be highly beneficial to the development of many tree species. But what can work just as well is to prune later in the season instead. In fact, there are a few distinct benefits to pruning woody plants in the fall.

Since many trees and shrubs lose their leaves in fall, pruning them at that time can make for less of a mess than if you did your cutting while the leaves were in. Removing limbs in anticipation of winter can also help trees avoid damage from snow. With fewer branches, it is far less likely that your trees and shrubs will accumulate more snow than they can safely support.

Fall is also a great time to cut back your perennials. At this stage of the year, most perennials will be spent and will begin to dry out. At that point, many of their ornamental features will have declined or disappeared. What is left is a plant that is brown and lifeless. Cutting perennials to the ground is a great way to keep your beds neat and to make way for new growth in the season to come.

In general, pruning in the fall is a viable choice for one primary reason. As is the case during winter and early spring, many plants are in a dormant phase in autumn. This dormant phase is the ideal time for pruning and taking advantage of the energy the plant stored from the previous season.

However, you should keep in mind that all plants have specific pruning requirements. Be sure to treat each of your plants according to their individual needs.

Give Your Garden Water and Fertilizer

Winter is typically a very dry season. Because of that climatic change, it is essential that you prepare your plants for a decrease in moisture. One of the best ways to do that is to provide your plants with plenty of water in the fall. Since this is the last part of the year in which you will be watering your plants, give them as much moisture as you can.

The same is true for fertilization. Fertilizing your trees and shrubs in the fall is a great way to help them find the energy they need to survive the harsh winter conditions to come.

Be Ready to Protect Vulnerable Plants

Along with colder temperatures, winter also brings harsh winds and ice. Unfortunately, those elements can damage your plants, and some plant species are more vulnerable than others. To prevent such damage, you can use one of these three methods:

Each of those tactics will work well for protecting plants in winter. Read on through the next few sections to see how each process should play out.

Winter Wind Protection

Most of the plants in your garden should have no issue surviving outdoors throughout the entire year. However, some plants are more susceptible to winter wind damage and need protection. These are usually trees and shrubs that produce leaves and flowers in the early spring. In that time of year, a late-season windstorm can easily destroy the petals and foliage.

Here are a few tactics you can use to protect your trees and shrubs from winter wind:

Over-Wintering Your Potted Plants

If you grow some of your plants in pots, there is no reason you cannot bring them inside to protect them in winter. This process is called overwintering and is a fantastic option for plants that thrive in a slightly warmer climate zone.

Greenhouses for Your Plants

The main purpose of a greenhouse is to give your plants a consistently warm growing environment despite local weather conditions. While a full-scale greenhouse is a major investment, you will be happy to find that there are many mini-greenhouse options that serve the same role at a smaller scale.

Anticipate Spring by Planting Bulbs

Fall is a fantastic time to plant bulbs that will flower in the spring. What is important to remember is that not all bulbs should go into the ground in the fall. Typically, only bulbs that bloom in spring should be planted in fall. Here are a few plant options that fit into that group:

A Few Late-Season Lawn Care Tips

Your lawn will usually look its best in spring or summer. But what you do in the fall can contribute greatly to the lushness of your grass. Since your lawn care strategy should change late in the season, we thought it would be beneficial to share these autumn lawn care tips:

Do One Last Clean-Up for the Year

Your final landscape task of the year is to do one last yard clean-up. At this time, you should remove fallen leaves, branches, and other types of debris that have accumulated in your garden.

While it’s true that a moderate amount of dead leaves can act as a form of compost to add nutrients to your soil, too many leaves can cause an issue. Most notably, a pile of leaves that becomes wet can harbor harmful fungi and bacteria that may later afflict your plants. So if you want the best for your landscape, perform a fall clean-up and follow the other tips in this post.

Topdressing: Making Your Indoor Plants Look Different

Topdressing is a great way to make your indoor plants look better than ever. But before you can do that, you need to know what topdressing is and how you can do it yourself. This article is what you need to get started.

One of the most reliable ways to boost the appeal of your indoor living spaces is to grow colorful potted plants. While plants alone will add plenty of visual intrigue to your home, there are some tricks to planting and arranging those plants that will make them stand out even more.

One of the best ways to make your indoor plants look their best is with topdressing. Topdressing not only enhances the appeal of your houseplants but also improves the soil quality too. This article will tell you all you need to know about topdressing your indoor plants.

What is Topdressing?

Topdressing is the tactic of adding materials on top of the soil to improve both the health and visual appeal of your plants. Depending on how you apply it, topdressing may have one or more of these benefits for your garden:

Most houseplant owners use topdressing to enhance the visual appeal of their plants, as indoor plants don’t have issues with temperature and nutrients as much as outdoor plants do. Topdressing is the equivalent of putting jewelry on your plants. The fun is finding the right materials to truly enhance their color and appearance.

Topdressing Material Options for Indoor Plants

Before you can add topdressing to your indoor plants, you’ll need to become familiar with some of the most popular materials for the job. The following list contains great options for topdressing, each offering its own unique qualities and benefits:

By no means should you consider that list to be exhaustive. In fact, you’ll find that there are numerous other topdressing options and several possibilities within each of the categories listed above. Additionally, you’ll find many synthetic topdressing materials that enhance your plants’ appeal.

However, while it is exciting to see so many topdressing choices, a few materials may not be the best for indoor plants. For example, it is best to avoid using organic materials for indoor topdressing. While mulch and other organic matter are fantastic at strengthening soil nutrients, they give off unpleasant odors and may even be a fire hazard.

Choosing the Best Topdressing for Your Plants

Now that you have some knowledge of what topdressing is and what some of the most widespread topdressing materials are, you’re ready to start choosing a topdressing for your indoor garden.

As mentioned earlier, there is a multitude of suitable topdressing material choices, and no single one stands above the rest. As such, it is up to you to pick what topdressing is best for your plants. The next couple of sections will give you some helpful insights to guide your selection process.

Know Your Goal With Topdressing

Topdressing can either be used to improve your plants’ health or to make them more appealing. Knowing your primary goal for topdressing will help you select the appropriate materials. Some materials will add nutrients back to the soil but offer little visual appeal, while other materials add great color contrast but very little nutritional value.

Though most houseplant owners use topdressing solely to enhance the visual appeal of their plants, you should still consider your goal before choosing topdressing materials. Are you interested in topdressing purely for visual appeal or do your plants need a nutrition boost?

Understand Color Theory

Color is likely the most noticeable trait of any topdressing. For that reason, you should take great care in selecting colors that will contribute to an impressive overall appearance. Take time to learn some fundamental color theory to understand which colors work well together and which won’t.

Remember that your topdressing is not the only element that adds color to your garden. Consider the colors of your plants’ flowers and foliage and choose a topdressing that will complement them or add striking contrast. Keep in mind, too, that your plants may change throughout the season to show different hues. Select a topdressing color that can work well with those changes.

Pair Complementary Textures

Next to color, texture is another excellent characteristic of topdressing materials. Stones, glass, and other materials can all wow you with their varying degrees of coarseness or fineness. Don’t neglect the role of these textures as you pair your topdressing materials.

Get Creative with Your Topdressing

One final tip for selecting topdressing is to let your creative side take over. Have fun choosing different colors and textures that you like and work well with the plants you already have.

You should also recall that your goal in adding topdressing is to make your entire garden display looks great. Don’t lose sight of that goal by fixating too much on one plant and topdressing pairing. Instead, keep your attention on the overall effect you create to find the most success.

Flower of the Week: Passionflower

Passionflower can definitely be considered on of the most surprising vines. This type of flower originated from tropical zones and has vibrant color, an amazing shape, and shows a vigorous growth, leaving you with a lasting impression of its beauty and grace.

An Exotic flower

Though there are various passionflowers, they all have exotic blossoms. Components of these blossoms include the corona filaments and the 10 petals behind the line-shaped arrays that are pointed outward. Stamens that are located high up make the overall appearance intricate and fun. Among these exotic blossoms, Bluecrown Passionflowers in some East Asian countries are also called clock flower, because their straight paracorollas look like hands on a clock. The three stamens happen to look like the hour, minute and second hands.

If you observe carefully, you will notice that the 10 petals are in two layers. There are awns on the ends of the petals for five of them while the other five do not have these awns. In fact, the five petals that have the awns at the end of them are sepals, while the other five are actual petals.

Different Passion fruits

Almost everybody likes tasty Passion fruit, but not all fruits of passionflowers are passion fruits. In our market, the purple passion fruits are made from a mixed specie between what we know as Passiflora edulis and P. edulis f. flavicarpa. The fruit has the advantage of the sweet taste of Passiflora edulis while having the strength of the large size of P. edulis f. flavicarpa, or yellow passionfruit.

Other than purple passion fruits, many other types of fruits from passionflowers are tart and hard to eat. However, there are quite a few tasty types like banana passionfruit and giant granadilla. Banana passionfruits have a golden color, with a thin and long shape that look like bananas. Their flesh is tasty as well.

Giant granadillas that have relatively large fruits are not typically sweet and juicy. However, in Vietnam, giant granadillas that are unripe become a type of vegetable that is cooked and consumed in a whole piece.

Smoking Passionflower?

A unique use of the passionflower for some is as an aid to quit smoking. People who are quitting smoking may collect aerial parts of the flower, wait till they are dry to use them as nicotine alternatives. They believe herbs are safer. While it is true that dried passionflower would not be addictive like cigarettes, smoking passionflower long term can cause symptoms like rapid heartbeat, nausea, vomiting, etc. Smoking passionflower has many negative health risks and is not advised.

Can I grow passionflower well?

Planting a passionflower in your garden is very worthwhile. They are energetic, adaptable, attract many animals that pollenate, and can increase the livelihood of your garden. Passionflowers enjoy full sunlight or half shady environments. It is better to grow them in a place that has some shade, such as near your hedge.

In the winter, you can cover the roots of passionflower to ensure the plant is not harmed by frost. If the region you live in is relatively cold, you can plant them in a container. This way, you can move them indoors in the winter. In humid and hot places, passionflowers are susceptible to pests. Therefore, it is important to maintain air circulation.

Size: Varies; some species can grow up to 9 m (30 ft)

Hardiness: USDA Zone 5-12 (depending on species)

Sunlight: Full sun to partial shade

Soil: Rich and moist

Bloom time: Summer

How to Prune Your Hedges Before Winter

You should prune hedges ahead of wintertime, but you need to know how to do it the right way. Here’s how to keep your hedges looking great and avoid common hedge-pruning pitfalls.

One of the most challenging aspects of pruning hedges is determining the ideal time of year to do it. Often, the best time of year to make pruning cuts is in the early spring. However, there are other times when you can prune, including late fall. It’s important to know that late-season pruning comes with a few risks. So, before you begin, read through this guide on how to prune hedges before winter to ensure you get the job done right.

The Ideal Time for Late-Season Pruning

If you choose to prune in the fall, you should not do so too early. Wait until there have been a few frosts before you make your cuts. Pruning before the frost arrives can stimulate new growth that will die as soon as the temperature drops for good. If you wait until frost has arrived in late fall, then you can avoid that issue.

Frost will arrive at different times of the year, depending on where you live. But if you are looking for a guideline, treat the arrival of Thanksgiving as a sign that a few frosts have already passed. Remember that Thanksgiving is only a vague indication that it is safe to prune your hedges. A more reliable approach would be to pay attention to the ground in your garden and take note of when the frost arrives. At that point, most of your hedges will enter a dormant phase in which it is suitable to prune them.

A Few General Pruning Guidelines

Once you have waited until the frost has arrived and your hedges are safe to prune, it is time to begin pruning. To perform this essential gardening task, you will need one or more of the following tools:

Evaluate the hedges you intend to prune, then choose the best pruning tool to use accordingly. With your tool in hand, you can begin removing any part of your hedge plants that are:

Removing those parts of the plant has many benefits. Mainly, taking off those unwanted branches will allow the plant to allocate its growing energy to its most important branches in the coming year. Pruning hedges is also a chance for you to improve the airflow within the branches of each shrub.

Shape Your Hedge After Selective Pruning

After selectively removing individual branches, you can then shape your hedges as you please. Shearing a hedge involves shearing off the outermost part of the foliage until you achieve the overall form you desire. Be sure not to remove too much of the foliage as some plant species are unable to sprout new growth from old wood. In those instances, removing too much foliage will leave your hedge permanently bare.

What to Watch Out for When Pruning in Fall

As we mentioned earlier, there are a few risks that come with a late-fall pruning job. We’ll cover a few of the most common issues so that you can avoid them and keep your garden as healthy as can be.

Don’t Stimulate New Growth

When pruning in the fall, you do not want to stimulate new growth. A plant’s natural reaction to a pruning cut is to send forth new growth elsewhere. This is why it is crucial to wait until the first few frosts have arrived for the season. If you prune before the frost, the new growth is likely to die as soon as the frost arrives.

Preserve Flower Buds

Another issue to consider when pruning hedges before winter is flower bud removal. Some plant species set the next season’s flower buds before the winter arrives. If you are not aware of that, you may accidentally remove those flower buds as you prune. That will effectively prevent or reduce the blooms of that plant in the next season and remove much of its ornamental value. The following list is not comprehensive but does include a few popular shrub species that set their buds before the winter:

Late-Fall Pruning is Worth the Effort

Pruning in late fall can be a delicate chore. That means you need to know the correct way to complete this task before you attempt it. While there are some considerable risks to pruning at that time of year, if you follow the tips in this guide, you should have no issue understanding how to prune your hedges before winter comes.

How to Store Seeds and Bulbs

A good way to save money as a gardener is to keep your seeds and bulbs each year. It may feel intimidating at first, but it couldn’t be easier once you know what to do. Here’s a guide for saving seeds and bulbs so you can enjoy them for many seasons.

Buying new seeds and bulbs each year gets expensive. Why not save and store your own instead? It’s easier than you think — here’s what you need to know.

Seed Storage Advice

Storing your own saved seeds lets you save money each season and slowly develop varieties that are well-suited to your growing conditions. Follow these steps to ensure your seeds will sprout in the spring.

Collect Seeds

The first step is collecting seeds from garden plants. This process will vary based on variety of plant. Sometimes it’s as simple as harvesting a ripe tomato and rinsing the gel coating off each seed, and other times it involves wrapping a flowerhead with a bag to capture the seeds once they mature.

Note: Pay attention to the pollination needs of each plant before saving its seeds. Seeds from hybrid varieties won’t grow true to their parent, and most heirloom varieties need to be isolated to avoid cross-pollination that could introduce unwanted genetics.

Dry the Seeds

Next, you need to dry each seed. Spread them on a single layer on a thin piece of parchment paper and place them in a well-ventilated space. Stir the seeds every few days to promote even drying. Depending on size, they should dry within one to 10 days.

It’s possible to use a dehydrator for this step, so long as it’s at its lowest setting and only on for 30 minutes at a time.

Store the Seeds

Once dried, the seeds should be labeled and stored somewhere cool and dry until spring. Regular envelopes work well, or you can purchase empty seed packets. Some gardeners find success with plastic craft containers with small compartments they can use for different seed varieties.

Make sure the seeds are completely dry before adding them to your chosen storage vessel, and place them somewhere dark that stays consistently around 40°F (4°C). A beverage cooler works well. They will be ready to plant in the spring and should last for many seasons if you continue to store them correctly.

Consider performing a germination test by sprouting some seeds in a wet paper towel before planting so you know what percentage are likely to sprout in soil.

Note: Store any purchased seed packets by following these same methods to ensure that the seeds stay viable for next season.

Bulb Storage Advice

Bulb plants produce gorgeous flowers every growing season, but many varieties won’t survive a chilly winter in the ground. You’ll need to dig them up and store them over the winter for replanting in the spring. Here’s how.

Let the Flowers Wilt First

The best time to dig up bulbs is about two months after the plant has flowered and wilted. This gives the plant time to restore some of the energy it used for flower production.

Cut Back the Foliage at the Soil Line

Once the bulb plant is thoroughly wilted, you can use scissors to snip back the stalk and leaves. Most varieties can handle getting cut directly to the soil line, while others, like dahlias and tulips, need a portion of the stem left intact.

Research each flower variety before cutting!

Dig a Hole Near the Flower

Use a small trowel to dig up the ground a few inches from the base of the bulb. Avoid digging right next to it, so you don’t cause any damage. Carefully scrape dirt away in the direction of the bulb until you reveal the bulb.

Pull the Bulb Out of the Ground

Reach into the hole to feel for the bulb. If the ground is soft, you may be able to pull out the bulb with your fingers. If not, continue scraping away at the soil or use a spading fork to dislodge it from the dirt.

Make sure you are as careful as possible during this step. Bulbs bruise easily, and any breaks in the skin make them vulnerable to insect damage and plant diseases.

Clean and Inspect Each Bulb

Use your fingers to gently remove dirt and debris from the outer layer of the bulb.

Note: Some varieties, such as dahlias, cannas, begonias, and others, need to be stored in soil and shouldn’t be cleaned after digging.

Once you’ve dug up the whole flowerbed, carefully inspect each bulb for signs of damage or rot. Throw out any that have suspicious cuts or seem overly soft. One bad bulb can spread disease to your entire collection, so it pays to be picky about the ones you keep.

Let the Bulbs Dry Out

After they are lightly cleaned, you need to let the bulbs “cure” by drying them out. Set each bulb in a single layer on a tray and put it somewhere with good airflow where they will get indirect light.

Once the bulbs have been drying for a few days, you can move them off the tray and into a paper bag set somewhere with good airflow for another week or two.

Move the Bulbs to a Container for Longer Storage

After the bulbs dry out, it’s time to store them for the winter. Move them to a cardboard box or similar container that you can keep a lid on enough for moisture to escape. Fill it with a layer of sawdust or peat moss, and place each bulb inside, ensuring they don’t touch each other.

Keep this container in a dark, dry room like a closet or basement and store them around 50 to 60°F (10 to 16°C). Any hotter, and they might break dormancy and sprout.

Check the bulbs weekly for signs of damage, and immediately remove any with problems, so they don’t spoil the rest.

Start Storing Your Own Seeds and Bulbs Today!

Storing your own bulbs and seeds is a stellar way to save money and become more self-sufficient as a gardener. It also helps ensure you always have access to rare and specialty varieties that can be hard to purchase otherwise.

Take the time to put a storage plan in place; saving seeds and bulbs is an easy late-season garden task that will reward you in the spring.

Just make sure to take your time and only keep the best-quality seeds and bulbs so you don’t compromise your supply with a few that could be rotten or diseased.