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Learn How to Fertilize Your Orchid

Orchids need nutrients just like other houseplants, but they can be very sensitive to food and water. Here’s how to safely fertilize your orchids.

To get your orchid to re-blossom, one of the most important things you can do is fertilize it correctly. Like other houseplants, orchids need nutrients for growth, but they can be pretty sensitive to fertilizer applications. Instead of giving them too much plant food, these tender plants will do much better by being slightly underfed.

Why do orchids need fertilization?

In nature, orchids grow attached to trees or logs, not down on the ground with their roots in the soil. Native to tropical jungles and rainforests, the roots pull humidity from the air and absorb nutrients from the bark on the tree or dust that lands in proximity.

Because of their native origins, to cultivate orchids for indoor growth, many types are grown in a medium like bark chips or sphagnum moss. Unlike soil, these growing substrates do not have as much organic matter that breaks down and releases nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium over time. Therefore, you must supplement orchid plants with fertilizer to get essential nutrients for metabolic cellular processes, growth, and flowering.

How often to fertilize orchids

When it comes to fertilizing your orchids, you can break their growth cycle into three periods: active vegetative growth, flowering, and resting or dormancy. The plants have different fertilizer needs during each of those three periods.

Active growth period

During the active growth phase, which occurs just before blossoming, the plant needs the greatest amount of fertilizer. Fertilizing during this period encourages the plant to put up new stems and develop flower buds that will allow the orchid to bloom again. This period is when the plant grows the most and stores energy to put up new stems and to develop flower buds.

When the plant is actively growing, it can be fertilized weekly or every other week. Many orchid growers follow the “weakly, weekly” approach — giving plants a small dose of fertilizer when they water weekly versus a larger amount once or twice a month.

Flowering period

Active growth slows when the flower buds open, meaning orchids expend less energy during blossoming and need less fertilizer. Therefore, it is recommended you avoid fertilizing plants when they are blooming. In some cases, fertilization can cause premature bloom loss.

Resting period

After the blooms have dropped off your orchid, the plant needs to build up its energy reserves in preparation for the active growth phase that follows. At this same time, autumn or winter temperatures begin to drop, and the day shortens in length. In turn, orchids will considerably slow down their growth to rest and store nutrients.

Fertilize your orchid every two to four weeks during the resting period at a reduced dosage rate.

Choosing a fertilizer

You can purchase a fertilizer specially formulated for orchids, or you can use all-purpose plant food. There are both granular and liquid fertilizers available; liquid fertilizers come in ready-to-use formulas and in concentrated forms that need to be diluted in water.

If you choose an all-purpose plant food, ensure that it contains equal amounts of N-P-K, such as a 20-20-20 product. Nitrogen is needed for leaf growth; phosphorus promotes healthy root growth and bud development; potassium increases plant defenses against environmental stress and helps maintain overall health. It is also essential to choose a product that contains micronutrients too. These trace elements help perform many vital functions in the plant.

Just be careful to avoid any product that contains urea to prevent burning the roots.

Step by step instructions for fertilizing your orchid

These instructions are for fertilizing weekly when the orchid is actively growing, putting on vegetative growth. If you fertilize every two weeks, you can mix the fertilizer solution twice as strong; follow the application dosage recommendations on the product label for monthly fertilization.

Mix the fertilizer at one-quarter the strength listed on the container, making sure there is at least 50% water in the solution. Use rainwater if possible or filtered or distilled water. If you have municipally treated water, allow the chlorine to dissipate for 24 hours before using it to mix fertilizer.
Remove the plastic orchid container from its decorative pot (if it has a pretty container), and place it in the sink, a saucer, or a shallow dish.

Give the excess water time to drain out of the growing substrate. If using a saucer to collect the water, dump the excess solution from the tray, so it isn’t reabsorbed back into the growing medium through the drainage holes.

Tips for fertilizing

When fertilizing at stronger doses — half strength or above — water the growing medium slightly before applying fertilizer. When orchid roots are dry, the higher fertilizer rates can burn them.
Over time, chemical salts from the fertilizer will form a white crust on the top of the growing substrate. Periodically flush excess fertilizer salts from the growing medium using distilled, filtered, or rainwater.
Never fertilize your orchid if it has a pest infestation, is struggling with a disease problem, or the roots are damaged.
Avoid using slow-release fertilizers for your orchid. The nutrients in these products are meant to be released over time to give plants periodic doses of food. But when grown in a soilless medium, there is nothing for the nutrients to bind to, and they just get flushed out of the container before the roots can use them.
If the leaves of your orchid become dark in color and begin to look floppy, scale back on fertilizing. These are typical symptoms of overfertilization.

How to Design an Efficient Vegetable Garden

A vegetable garden isn’t just fun to have; it should be productive and reward you at the end of the season. This article will discuss how to utilize sunlight, space, and other factors to design a highly efficient vegetable garden.

Growing your own vegetable garden is a fun and rewarding task. However, it can be disappointing if your plants aren’t as efficient or productive as you had hoped. Research and planning ahead are crucial to maximize the efficiency of your vegetable garden to ensure that all your hard work pays off.

There are many factors to consider when designing a vegetable garden. Layout, weather, space, and companion plants all affect the productivity of your plants. This article will discuss how to use these factors in your favor to design a highly efficient vegetable garden.

Take Advantage of Sunlight

The presence of plentiful sunlight is the first element you need for an efficient garden. Therefore, before you can begin designing, you’ll need to find a suitable location with enough sunlight for your vegetables. You should aim for a site that receives at least six hours of sunlight per day.

However, keep in mind that choosing a good location is not enough. You’ll need to arrange the plants in your garden to best take advantage of that sunlight.

Aligning your garden rows along a north/south axis is the best way to make use of the sunlight that reaches your plot. When plant rows run from east to west, there is a greater chance that plants next to each other will shade one another in the morning and evening. With a north-to-south row, your plants have a better opportunity to receive an even amount of light each day.

Create a Neat Layout

All gardens are most efficient when designed with a neat and orderly layout. By creating an efficient layout early on, you’ll have an easier time accessing and tending to your plants once they are in the soil.

Your garden layout should ensure that your plants get everything they need to thrive but should also allow you to work and navigate without any issues. The garden beds should have access to plenty of sunlight and have enough space so that your plants aren’t overcrowded. The paths need to be wide enough to navigate with minimal effort.

Remember, your primary goal here is practicality, not aesthetics. Create a design that will not only improve the efficiency of your plants but also help you work in your garden easily without any setbacks.

Attend to the Needs of Each Plant

The best way to increase the efficiency of your plants is to know the precise needs of each one. You need to know the ideal amounts of sunlight, water, and fertilizer that each plant needs to ensure that they thrive and are most efficient.

While it will take some time to learn this information about all your plants, especially if you have a large garden, it is well worth the effort. Once you know the conditions that will make for the most vigorous growth of your vegetables, you are well on your way towards having a highly efficient garden

Companion Planting

Another tactic that is crucial to understand is companion planting. Companion planting involves finding groups of plants that are beneficial to one another, then planting them together in the same garden bed. At times, companion plants will share similar growth requirements. In other cases, they help each other ward off pests and diseases. In either case, companion plants will improve the efficiency of your garden.

Use Vertical Space

One of the best ways to increase the efficiency of your garden is to make the most out of the space that you have. This is crucial if you have a smaller garden. You’ll need to be creative to ensure that every part of your garden is working efficiently.

Going vertical is one of the best ways to do this. One of the most popular ways to utilize space is by using a trellis. Trellises allow you to plant climbing plants such as tomatoes, cucumbers, and beans. This means that you have more plants producing vegetables without taking up more space in your yard.

Before making your vegetable garden, it is also critical to know about the benefits of raised garden beds. In nearly all cases, raised beds give you greater control over the plants in your garden. Rather than relying on local soil conditions, you can fill a raised bed with high-quality, nutrient-rich soil that your plants will love. Creating such ideal conditions will help you get more out of your garden than you otherwise would.

Study Permaculture Principles

The pieces of advice above are enough to help you design a vegetable garden that is more efficient than you might expect. But there are other methods available if you want to take that efficiency to the next level.

One of the best ways to boost the long-term efficiency of a garden is to understand and employ the fundamental principles of permaculture. This practice relies on developing systems within your garden that support one another and eventually become self-sufficient.

The topic of permaculture is too large to discuss fully here. But know that combining the wisdom of permaculture with the insights of this article will be one of the best ways to design an efficient vegetable garden.

Flowers Brighten Your Room in This Winter

Winter can be a dreary time of year. What better way to add some cheer during this season than by bringing winter-flowering plants into your home? Here are some of the best indoor plants that flower during the colder months.

Though winter can bring up feelings of coziness and warmth, it can also be a dreary time of year. Long nights and cold temperatures keep people indoors all season, making it feel as though winter is dragging on and on.

However, one great way to add brightness and cheer to the season is by bringing some flowering plants into your home. While most plants bloom in spring and summer, some species naturally bloom during the colder months of the year. Other plants can be forced into blooming whenever you want, making them especially great options for winter holidays.

This article will introduce you to some of the most popular plants to bloom in winter. You will also learn how to give them the right care to keep their flowers looking beautiful.

Winter-Blooming Houseplants

This first category of winter-blooming indoor plants can be grown year-round as houseplants. Some of them bloom during the winter, while others flower continually, regardless of the season.

Cyclamen

Cyclamen is a compact houseplant with attractive foliage and beautiful flowers that come in white, red, pink, or purple hues. These flowers can last for the whole winter season, provided the plant is given the right conditions. Cyclamen typically go dormant in the summer but can return and bloom again the following autumn.

The key to keeping this plant happy during the winter is to provide cool temperatures and bright light. Since Cyclamen prefer temperatures lower than an average home (40°F to 55°F at night and 60°F to 70°F during the day), it works best to grow them in an unheated room or near an uninsulated window.

Peace Lily

Peace lilies are popular houseplants since they thrive in low-light areas that may not suit many other species. They feature glossy, dark-green foliage and flower readily. Their flowers are white, cuplike blooms called spathes.

However, peace lilies are not actually lilies but rather members of the Araceae family. Their common name comes from their resemblance to real lily flowers.

Most peace lily cultivars bloom in late winter and continue through spring. Winter temperatures around 60°F to 65°F trigger the plant to start blooming. Keep your peace lily evenly moist (but not wet) and provide fertilizer, if needed, to boost the chances of it flowering.

African Violet

African violets have a reputation for being fussy, but once you nail down a care routine, they are no more demanding than other houseplants. They come in a range of colors, sizes, and styles, meaning almost anyone should be able to find an African violet that suits their tastes.

To get an African violet to bloom, the temperature should stay consistently between 70°F to 80°F during the day and about 5°F cooler at night. They need plenty of bright, indirect sunlight. Fertilizer can be used, but only when the plant is actively growing. If your home doesn’t get enough sunlight in the winter, use a grow light to encourage blooming.

Christmas Cactus

Schlumbergera species are variously referred to as Thanksgiving, Christmas, or Easter cactus, or by their other scientific name, Zygocactus. As their common names imply, Schlumbergera varieties produce blossoms during the times of year that correspond to the winter and early spring holidays.

These plants are easy to keep alive and come in several colors including bright red, purple, pink, and white. Schlumbergera’s exotic-looking blooms develop in response to longer periods of darkness as the days get shorter in winter and cooler nighttime temperatures. The flowers can last as long as two to three weeks, making this plant a lovely showpiece when it blooms.

Forcing Bulbs

A second option for long-lasting blooms during the winter is to force some bulbs. This method (also called coaxing) involves tricking a bulb into blooming by replicating the conditions that trigger the process. These spring blooms last longer than cut flowers, and many varieties emit a lovely scent.

Types Of Bulbs

The easiest types of bulbs to use are amaryllis and paperwhites because they don’t require chilling. Other bulbs, such as hyacinths, Muscari (grape hyacinth), tulips, and crocus, require a cold period for multiple weeks to signal to the bulb that it is time to bloom. The amount of time for each type will vary, so check with your garden center when you purchase bulbs.

How To Chill Bulbs

You can leave bulbs to chill outside, in an unheated basement or garage, or in a refrigerator. The bulbs should not be allowed to freeze during the chilling period, but the temperature shouldn’t be much higher than 40°F.

It is possible to buy pre-chilled bulbs, but you may not know exactly when they will bloom. If you need flowers at a specific time, chilling them yourself allows you to control the timing.

Be aware that it can take as long as 15 weeks, so plan ahead. For continuous flowers, you may want to chill several bulbs at different times so you always have some ready to bloom.

At the end of the chilling period, roots should begin to emerge. If there are no roots, give the bulbs more time before planting.

How to Force Bulbs To Bloom In Winter

Forcing bulbs can be done using standard household potting soil or in a container filled with water. If you use the water method, chill the bulbs first. If you use the soil method, plant the bulbs and then chill them in their containers.

After the appropriate chilling time, follow these steps to force bulbs in water:

Place marbles or gravel in the bottom of your container to hold the bulbs in place.
Fill the container with water high enough so that just the roots are submerged.
Place the container in a sunny location.
Top off the water levels so the roots never dry out. Soon, longer roots will emerge and growth will sprout from the top of the bulb.

As long as you keep the water level consistent, your bulbs should produce flowers within a matter of weeks.

To force bulbs in soil, follow the below steps:

Put a layer of regular potting mix into the bottom of a container with drainage holes. Be sure there will be several inches of space for roots to grow.
Plant the bulbs (close together, if putting multiple bulbs in one pot), covering them with about half an inch of potting mix. Water thoroughly.
Chill for the appropriate length of time, depending on your bulb type.
When the chilling period is over, there should be enough roots that they are starting to emerge from the drainage holes. If not, return them to chill longer.
Place the rooted bulbs into a bright, cool room. Water when the soil is dry.
Flowers should emerge within two to three weeks.

Depending on what kind of bulbs you use, your forced blooms may last only a few days or as long as several weeks. Many bulbs are annuals and, therefore, will be spent after they bloom. However, there are perennial options available that can bloom year after year.

Winter Is the Best Time to Transplant Trees and Shrubs

Transplanting trees and shrubs is a smart way to change up your landscaping without spending lots of money. But digging up trees at the wrong time of year risks damaging them. Transplant during the winter for the most success. Here’s how.

As the weather starts to turn cold, you might begin to look at your landscaping in new ways. Trees and shrubs that never bothered you before may suddenly seem out of place once they lose their leaves. The good news is that winter is the right time to transplant perennial trees and shrubs to other parts of your yard.

However, moving an established tree is a challenging project. Going about the process the wrong way will do more damage than good, and you might be left needing to buy new plants in the spring.

Here’s a guide to successfully transplanting trees and shrubs to give them the best chance of surviving the winter and beyond.

Planting vs. Transplanting

Despite what many people think, planting and transplanting are two different processes. Planting is the act of putting a plant in the ground that wasn’t in the ground before. There’s no root damage because you didn’t dig it up from where it was already established.

In contrast, transplanting involves digging up an established plant and moving it from one part of ground to another. Even though you’ll dig a large hole, the odds are good that you’ll damage the plant roots in the process. This makes transplanting a traumatic process for plants, and it needs to happen at the correct times of year to reduce the risk of damage.

When is the Best Time to Transplant?

It’s generally best to transplant trees and shrubs in the late fall and winter, when the plants are entering dormancy.

Throughout the summer, trees rely on their roots to funnel water through the branches to trigger growth and leaf production. Transplanting while the root system is active cuts off the plant’s water access and causes it to suffer transplant shock. Some never recover.

But if you transplant during dormancy, you won’t disrupt this water flow because the plant isn’t actively producing new leaves and branches. You also give the plant more time to recover from the transplanting process before entering a growth stage again.

Plants will enter dormancy after a hard frost, when temperatures dip below freezing for several hours. After this point, they are safe for transplanting.

How to Transplant Trees and Shrubs

Transplanting will set up your trees and shrubs for success or failure, so it’s essential to follow the correct process to give them the best shot of thriving in their new location.

Choose Carefully

First, consider the physical size of the plant you want to transplant. The larger the plant, the more it will struggle when removed from the ground. It’s wise to only transplant trees that have a main trunk that’s smaller than one inch or two centimeters in diameter. Any larger, then you should consider working with a landscaping service for professional help.

Prune and Tie Up Lower Branches

Once you’ve selected appropriately sized trees or bushes, prune away any old stems along the soil line and tie up the lowest branches. This prevents them from getting in the way when you’re digging.

Start Digging!

Dig a trench that circles the plant but keeps several feet of distance from the main stem. Use a sharp, clean shovel so you sever the roots without creating large wounds.

After you’ve circled the plant with this ditch, angle the shovel at a 45-degree angle to start digging the roots out of the ground. Sizes will vary, but you can plan on about 11” or 12” of root ball for every inch diameter of the main stem. Try to get it out of the ground with as much soil attached to it as possible.

Clean Up the Root Ball

Once you have the plant out of the ground, move it to a container or onto burlap to rest before placing it in its new planting location. If it’s going to be several days or weeks before replanting, cover the roots with the burlap as if you were wrapping a present, and use pinning nails to hold it in place. This helps prevent the roots from drying out.

Prep the Planting Space

Go to where you plan to transplant, and dig a hole that’s two or three times the diameter of the root ball but no deeper than its height. You don’t want to bury the main stem any deeper than it was previously in the ground. Otherwise, you’re putting it at risk of rotting.

Note: Don’t add any fertilizer to the hole, as it can prevent the tree roots from branching out into the nearby soil and harm its growth in the long run.

Place and Plant the Tree or Shrub

Once the planting hole is ready, place the transplant in the middle and begin refilling it with the dirt you dug out. Keep the main stem straight, and pack the soil down tightly around the root ball.

You can apply a few inches of organic mulch on the soil’s surface, taking care to leave spacing around the main stem, so you don’t encourage rot. Thoroughly water the plant after transplanting.

Water and Monitor Over Time

For the next few weeks, water the plant enough to keep the soil moist but not saturated, and monitor for signs of stress. The plant should remain dormant until the weather warms again in the spring, at which point you’ll see new growth starting to form.

Plan Your Transplanting for the Winter

Transplanting trees and shrubs is a cost-effective way to change your landscaping and improve the appearance of your yard. Take care to do the process right, and you’ll ensure your plants have the best possible chance of thriving in their new location.

Do the work today, and by springtime, you’ll be more than happy you put in the effort.

How to Choose the Best High Quality Cut Flowers

When you buy a lovely bunch of colorful flowers, you want them to last as long as possible. Here’s how to select the freshest flowers and extend their life once you get them home.

There’s nothing nicer than having a lovely bunch of vividly colored cut flowers to brighten up your home. But the joy these flowers bring can be short-lived if they only survive in your home for a few days.

When selecting the freshest and highest quality cut flowers, there are certain trade secrets that you should be aware of to lengthen the lifespan of these blooms. Below are some tips to help you identify the best quality flowers and keep them alive longer.

Take A Close Look At The Flower Petals

When selecting flowers, it’s far better to buy those with buds that haven’t opened yet rather than those already fully open. The buds will continue to open when you keep the flowers in a vase with water.

Never buy flowers whose petals are faded, transparent, or starting to brown along the edges. This usually means that the flowers are near the end of their life and won’t last very long.

When selecting roses, gently squeeze the rosebud at the base of the petals where it meets the stem. If this part is soft, then the roses are not fresh. However, if it feels firm, you can be assured that the roses are fresh and will last for some time in a vase.

Remember to look inside the blooms and make sure there is no loose pollen or seeds visible. If there are, it indicates that the flowers were cut when they were past their prime.

You also want to ensure that the flower buds are not glistening with droplets of water on them, especially if you’re buying roses. Any water on the buds or petals will quickly rot the blooms.

The only exceptions are hydrangeas and peonies. Hydrangea blooms will thrive when occasionally dunked in water. Likewise, stubborn peony buds will open after being briefly submerged.

Expert Tip: Move your fingers across the undersides of the petals. If you hear a faint rustling sound, then you can be assured that the flowers are fresh.

Inspect The Stems Closely

You want to select flowers with strong, green stems that are not drooping or slimy. Look very closely at the stems to see if there’s any discoloration. This could indicate the presence of bacteria, which means that the stems are starting to break down.

Furthermore, the stems should not be broken or show any signs of rot.

Look At Any Leaves That Are Still Present On The Stems

You should always choose flowers that have healthy, green leaves without any discoloration. If the leaves are looking a little speckled, it could indicate that bacteria are present.

Furthermore, don’t buy flowers that have leaves with holes in them as this indicates that the flowers had been attacked by insects while they were growing. This will shorten the lifespan of your flowers.

Be sure also to inspect the sepals and calyx. This section is just below the flower petals and is often made up of several small green leaf structures. Make sure this is firm, green, and healthy.

How To Keep Your Flowers Fresh After You Get Them Home

There are several things you can do once you get your flowers home to ensure that they’re going to last for the longest possible time. Consider these tips:

By following these tips, you should now know exactly how to select the best high-quality cut flowers as well as how to keep them alive for as long as possible.

How to Create Rustic Centerpieces to Inspire Your Table

Make a warm, inviting environment for guests by incorporating natural elements, the right lighting, and unexpected touches into a perfect centerpiece display. A rustic centerpiece can set the right mood for your event at any budget.

Rustic centerpieces can add a relaxed, cozy touch to an event. As the focal point of the table, centerpieces help set the mood, and a rustic style lets guests know they can feel relaxed and unhurried. You can use found items and upcycled elements to create a warm and inviting scene that pulls together a party or a family dinner.

The term “rustic” might mean different things to different people, but in general, rustic looks incorporate a lot of natural elements that maintain their charming imperfections. Wood, glass jars, and plants often feature in rustic designs. You will also find that rough, natural textiles such as burlap and twine complement this style. Rustic centerpieces can follow a theme or season, or simply showcase the natural beauty of the items used.

Make sure your centerpiece doesn’t interfere with your guests’ dining experience. Tall items can block guests from interacting, and centerpieces that are too large can crowd their place setting. Use sturdy items that won’t break if they are accidentally knocked over. Remember that the centerpiece should add to your guests’ experience, but not dominate it.

Designing a Centerpiece

There’s no one right way to create a centerpiece, but keeping these considerations in mind can help you design one that looks great:

Theme

Having a theme for your centerpiece is not strictly necessary, but it can be a fun way to customize your table. Your theme could be based on the season, a specific event or holiday, or really anything you like.

When creating a themed centerpiece, remember not to coordinate the elements too much. Rustic centerpieces should be casual and relaxed, not formal. Items should complement each other, but not necessarily match.

Color

Rustic centerpieces often tend more toward a neutral palette, with a lot of brown and green reflecting the natural beauty of plants. However, you can certainly incorporate bright pops of color as well. In general, it is better to stick to one or two accent colors, since too many competing hues can make a centerpiece feel inharmonious.

One great option is to use flowers to lend color to your rustic centerpiece. You can choose a subtle color such as a light pink or lilac, or something more bold like a stunning red. Wildflowers complement this style well, but even traditionally formal flowers like roses can be used if they are arranged in a casual way.

Size and shape

Consider your table size and shape, as well as the seating configuration, to help you plan your centerpiece. Round or square tables typically have a single centerpiece that looks great from all angles. Long rectangular tables might have several centerpieces at intervals or could have one long centerpiece running the length of the table.

Budget

Most of us don’t have an unlimited budget for centerpieces, but luckily, the rustic style can easily incorporate low-cost or free items. You may even be able to find enough items in your home or garden to create a totally free centerpiece. Here are some ideas for elements that can add flair to your table without breaking the bank:

Glass jars and bottles: Remove labels after emptying glass food containers to use them as vases or candle-holders in your centerpiece. You can customize glass containers by wrapping them in twine or burlap. Painting glass containers of different sizes and shapes gives them a balanced look while maintaining dynamic visual interest.
Wood and branches: Gather dry branches or pieces of wood for use in your rustic centerpieces. The addition of wood to a centerpiece lends warmth and texture.
Greenery: You can collect interesting foliage from your yard or garden to use in conjunction with purchased flowers and other elements. It’s a good idea to wash anything you gather from outside before using it on your table, to remove any bugs or dirt. You could also incorporate greenery by using container plants that you already own.
Outdoor elements: Other natural items like acorns, pine cones, and berries can be collected for use in rustic centerpieces.
Ingredients: Use items from your kitchen that coordinate with your centerpiece to set the mood for dinner. It is fun to use actual ingredients from the dishes being served.

Lighting

Consider using your centerpieces as an additional light source for the table. Candles are a classic choice, but fairy lights are also a great option. Not only does lighting make your table look warm and inviting, but diners will also appreciate the additional illumination to see their plates.

Balance

Once you have assembled all the elements for your centerpiece, try several different configurations on your table to see what looks best. The composition of a centerpiece isn’t an exact science, so it may take some experimentation to get it exactly right. Remember to view the centerpieces from seats on all sides of the table so you’ll have the same view as your guests.

Rustic centerpieces should not be overly symmetrical, but they should have a similar weight and distribution of elements. For example, instead of placing two identical candles on either side of the centerpiece, try grouping three of them together. Using odd numbers of items lends more visual interest and informality than using even numbers.

Be Creative and Have Fun

Since rustic centerpieces are unfussy and intentionally imperfect, this is a great opportunity to let your creative side run wild. Try incorporating some unexpected items that will get your guests’ attention. Vegetables, books, or children’s toys, for example, can give your centerpieces a lot of character. Not only that, but they can be great conversation-starters.

A beautiful centerpiece can truly be a work of art, but it is also a temporary one. That allows you a lot of freedom to do something playful and unexpected. Take inspiration from your surroundings and the items you already have, and you may be surprised to find what a wonderful rustic centerpiece you can create!

Flower of the Week: Hybridized Hellebore

Have you ever felt that your winter garden lacks color? You may want to try growing this little fairy called hellebore, whose flowers are beautiful and vibrant and bloom against a backdrop of ice and snow to light up dull corners in your garden. Hellebore has large, ornate sepals that attract insects. Its real flowers are small and dotted among the sepals as if they are smiling calmly in the biting cold wind. Take it home and embrace the elegance of winter.

Rich Gardening Varieties

The rich gardening varieties of hellebore are a major reason why the plant is so popular worldwide. Through constant hybridization, horticulturists have cultivated varieties with richer colors and more complex patterns, satisfying the preferences of various groups of enthusiasts. For example, there are the simple ‘Anna Red’, whose sepals are fuchsia, ‘First Dance’, whose sepals are yellow with purple-patterned margins, ‘Flower Girl’, whose sepals are white with pink ruffles, and more! Choose from many rich selections; there’s sure to be one for you.

Watch Out for Toxicity

Don’t let your guard down around hellebore simply because it is beautiful; the entire plant is toxic. Direct contact with it can cause irritation to our skin, and consuming it can cause adverse reactions such as emesis, diarrhea, and even disturbance to our nervous system. Pets can also incur similar symptoms from consuming hellebore, and although it tastes bad and pets don’t eat it in large quantities, we should still take precautions.

Legends about Hellebore

Hellebore is also called Christmas Rose. Legend has it that after the birth of Jesus, people went to Bethlehem to send congratulations. Among them, there was a shepherd who was too poor to buy a gift. Out of sorrow, he couldn’t help but shed tears. His tears fell into the snow and produced a beautiful flower. As a result, hellebore was born.

However, the toxicity of hellebore casts a mysterious shadow upon the flower. Some legends claim that hellebore was a necessary ingredient for medieval wizards to summon demons, and the prefix “Hell-” at the beginning of its genus name Helleborus adds to this horror association. There is even a singer who has released an album featuring religion and darkness, with the album title named after this mysterious and deadly winter flower.

How do I Grow Hellebore Well?

Hellebore is best grown in loose, fertile, well-drained soil. It prefers shade and can be planted under big trees to avoid direct summer sunlight. It does not require much moisture, and any soil works well as long as it’s not too dry or damp. If there is no need to collect seeds, you can cut back wilted flowers after blooming to reduce nutrient loss. Be aware that hellebore is toxic, so wear gloves while pruning.

Size: 10-60 cm (4-24 in) tall

Hardiness: USDA Hardiness Zones 5-8, hardiness varies by varieties

Light: Half sun to shade

Soil: Loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly alkaline

Bloom time: Winter or spring

Flower of the Week: Poinsettia

If you take an occasional stroll through streets or botanical gardens in the harsh cold of winter, you may stumble upon a heartwarming splash of red – a striking effect exclusive to poinsettias. Known as the “Christmas flower”, poinsettia has emerald green leaves and fiery red bracts, perfectly matching the Christmas spirit. Also remarkable are its lovely flowers, yellow in color and hidden among the bracts. Not only can you enjoy its beauty in the streets, but you can also grow it at home to brighten your winter landscape.

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To appreciate the brilliant colors of poinsettias, the United States Botanic Garden in Washington, D.C. is worth a visit.

In the early 20th century, Albert Ecke immigrated to the United States from Germany and started a career cultivating poinsettias. The family business expanded rapidly in the hands of his sons and grandsons, gifting the world a large selection of exceptional never-before-seen poinsettia cultivars.

Nowadays, you can lay eyes on numerous, gorgeous poinsettia varieties in the United States Botanic Garden, including pink ‘Peppermint Ruffles’, peach ‘Autumn Leaves’, and the ‘Jingle Bell’ with its pink-spotted bracts. Every year in late fall, poinsettias bloom one after another in the garden and stay in full bloom throughout winter. If you wish, you can arrange a trip to check them out during the Christmas holiday.

Once Upon a Time in Mexico

Legend has it that the association of poinsettia and Christmas began in 16th century Mexico, where a girl was too poor to buy a gift for Jesus’ birthday celebration. She was inspired by an angel to collect wildflower seeds and plant them by the church where the celebration would be held. From these seeds, poinsettias germinated and bloomed.

The leaves of poinsettias are believed to symbolize the Star of Bethlehem, while the red color symbolizes Jesus’ blood left behind from his crucifixion. Since the 17th century, Mexicans have celebrated Christmas with poinsettias, a tradition that has since spread throughout the world and continues to this day.

A Name in Memory of a Dignitary

In 1834, German botanist Johann Friedrich Klotzsch first described a species called Euphorbia pulcherrima and set that as its scientific name. Poinsettia, the name commonly used in English, was created in memory of a dignitary.

Pionsett is the last name of American diplomat Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first US Minister to Mexico after the founding of the Republic of Mexico. He had a keen interest in natural science and was committed to exchanging plants between the United States and Mexico to strengthen relations between the two countries. It was he who first brought the poinsettia, which is native to Mexico, to the United States.

Watch Out for Toxicity

Don’t let your guard down around poinsettias simply because they are beautiful. Although it’s not deadly, its sap is irritative to our skin and eyes, and consuming it can cause nausea, emesis, diarrhea, and other adverse reactions. Therefore, try to place it somewhere high to prevent children and pets from making contact with it.

How do I Grow Poinsettia Well?

Poinsettia prefers warm environments but is vulnerable to pests and diseases. Therefore, it requires a certain amount of effort and care. As long as you meet its preferred conditions of light and moisture you can count on creating a fiery and cheerful winter holiday spirit by Christmas.

Poinsettia prefers loose, well-drained, loamy soil. Usually, it can be placed by a window to receive bright, scattered light. Wait until the soil is dry before watering it. In winter, cold prevention measures should be taken to keep it warm, and artificial light should be avoided at night so that it can bloom. Poinsettia is susceptible to pests and diseases such as grey mold, spider mites, etc., so pay attention to daily ventilation and keep the environment from becoming too wet.

Size: 10-60 cm (4-24 in) tall

Hardiness: USDA Hardiness Zones 10-12

Light: Full sun to half sun

Soil: Loose, well-drained loamy soil

Bloom time: Winter

Flower of the Week: Bush Lily

To add blossoms that are warm and bright to your yard’s dreary winter landscape, the bush lily is definitely a good choice. This type of rhizocarpous plant that originated from South Africa has dark green leaves and red-orange flowers. When the flowers bloom, they can turn your yard into a colorful oil painting. This plant has the feature of a solid skin and is easy to take care of. It has the characteristics of being suitable for both indoors and outdoors and is a favorite of many gardeners.

Different kaffir lilies

Bush lilies originated in the forests of South Africa. It is a perennial rhizocarpous plant in the Clivia genus of Amaryllidaceae. Although bush lilies do not have many varieties and the whole Clivia genus only has 6 types of plants, this does not affect the beauty of the varieties of plants in its genus. For example, Clivia miniata and Clivia nobilis have received the garden award of the Royal Horticultural Society of the UK.

Clivia nobilis that has draping flowers

Among all varieties, bush lilies are among the most commonly grown and have the most genetic varieties. Flowers can be vibrantly colorful and range from orange to yellow, buttery to pink, and more. There is a wide application for bush lilies. Other than being an outstanding indoor plant, it can also be used in cut-flower arrangements or for edging plants.

The kaffir lily in the Eastern Culture

In the mid-19th century, when kaffir lilies were brought from Europe to Japan, Professor Okubo from the Tokyo University of Science translated the plant Clivia nobilis as “noble lily”, based on the specific epithet “nobilis“. “Nobilis” means a person with a high personal quality characteristic and this corresponds to the appearance of the lilies, as they are solemn and elegant. When this name was brought to China, due to the traditional Chinese “Ru” culture that promotes noble characteristics, the kaffir lily quickly became popular among the Chinese and became a common ornamental plant in their libraries.

The kaffir lily is also the city flower of Changchun, China. Changchun is a well-known cultivation base for kaffir lilies in Asia. Every year, a kaffir lily festival is held in Changchun. In this expo, there are quite a few valuable rare species. For example, a kaffir lily worth 6 million dollars was presented in 2011.

Be careful, it is poisonous!

Bush lily belongs to Amaryllidaceae. Almost all plants of Amaryllidaceae are poisonous, including the bush lily. It contains a small amount of a poisonous substance, lycorine. Accidental ingestion of it can cause nausea, vomiting and other poisoning symptoms. Eating a large amount can even cause central nervous system numbness. Therefore, try to these lilies at a place where pets and children cannot reach. When you are doing plant division or cutting off the flower, try to wear gloves.

Will I be able to plant bush lily well?

Bush lily is often an indoor ornamental plant. It is easy to grow them inside. Bush lilies like warm and dispersed light, so you can put them next to a bright window. It is necessary to regularly water them, but they do not like soil that is too dry or too wet. During their hibernation period in fall or winter, they do not need watering. You can also plant bush lily outdoors in soil that drains well. They are suited to be planted under trees where there is shade.

Bush lilies can produce relatively large seeds after blooming. If you collect them and plant them in warm moist soil suitable for cultivation, they will return you dazzling flowers in 3-4 years.

Size: 2 feet in height

Hardiness: USDA zones 10 to 11 (depends on species)

Sunlight: partial sun

Soil: average and well-drained

Bloom time: late winter

Flower of the Week: African Violet

As seasons change, flowers of various kinds come and go, but there is one little floral fairy that keeps blooming all year round indoors. That is the African violet. However, African violets are not related to violets at all. With delicate looks and rich colors, African violet can bloom throughout the whole year, adding eye-catching delight to the indoor life.

Place of Interest

To view African violet’s raw, intense beauty, why not check out its original birthplace in eastern Africa? The Amani Nature Reserve, located in the Usambara mountains in northeastern Tanzania, is an 83-square-kilometer habitat many varieties of wild African violets call home.

German colonists invaded the Usambara mountains in the late 19th Century. They brought economic crops, like tea and coffee, and set up a nature reserve in the forest to provide water and lumber. Nowadays, the Amani Nature Reserve is purer and more natural. Setting foot inside, you can almost feel the touch of moist sea breezes coming from the Indian Ocean, and your eyes will light up at the sight of sporadic purple blossoms glimmering in the endless green woods.

October and November are the best time of year to travel here and look for African violets. It’s the beginning of the rainy season, but you can follow the lead of your local guide through the forests and canyons for a lovely encounter with vigorously thriving native African violets.

From the Discovery to Gaining Popularity

In 1892, Baron Walter, a German colonial officer, first discovered African violet in the Usambara mountains and gave its seeds to his botany-enthusiast father as a gift. Hence, when the African violet was officially recognized as a new species, Baron Walter and his father’s last name, Saint Paul-Illaire, was adopted by botanists to name the plant’s genus Saintpaulia.

In 1894, the African violet was introduced to America. A grand African violet convention was held in Atlanta in 1946, and the African Violet Society of America was founded at the same time, marking the start of this beautiful flowers’ rise to popularity in the US.

Today, we enjoy a rich line of African violet varieties produced through years of cultivation, all with delightful names, such as Snow Prince (with white petals), Pink Miracle (with pink petals), Diana (with blue petals), etc.

Inspiring Artistic Creations

The discovery of African violets happened little more than a century ago, but its gorgeous look and rich connotations have inspired many artists for numerous creations.

Taiwanese writer Daren Liu had an encounter with African violets in a florist’s shop and was attracted by their beautiful flowers. He dived into horticulture and built his own garden in New York. His collection of essays, Inside and Outside My Garden, tells the story of his 20 years of romance with floral gardens, beginning with African violets.

In 2019, an independent Iranian film called African Violet was released in theaters. Based on the true story of her aunt, director Mona Zandi told a warm-hearted story about a trivial life with bright tones. The leading girl in the film holds African violet in her hands many times to symbolize her love as a wife and mother.

Can I Grow African Violets Well?

African violets have specific requirements for temperatures and need a little bit of care to have their preferred conditions of light, soil, moisture, etc. satisfied.

Native to eastern Africa, African violets prefer a warm climate; around 20°C is best. It likes bright, scattered light and needs to avoid direct sunlight. In daily care, it can be placed by the window. It will grow vigorously in loose, well-drained, slightly acidic soil, which should be kept from being too damp to prevent root rot. Carefully cared for indoors over time, African violets can bloom all year round.

Size: 10-30 cm (4-12 in) tall

Hardiness: USDA Hardiness Zones 11-12

Light: Bright, scattered light

Soil: Loose, well-drained, slightly acidic soil

Blooming time: All year round