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Build a DIY Stream to Meander Through Your Garden

Learn how to build a cascading stream in your garden, complete with a waterfall feature. Customize the design to fit your space and budget, including how to add more than one waterfall!

Have you ever thought about adding a water feature to your yard or garden but hesitated because you assumed you’d need to hire a professional? That’s not the case! If you’re willing to put in a couple of days (or maybe two or three weekends) of hard work, you can build a garden stream with a waterfall yourself.

With these instructions, you can create a rock-lined rippling stream through your garden with one or multiple waterfalls customized to your space.

Tools Needed

Shovel
Spade
Rubber Mallet
Utility Knife
Level
Cordless Drill
Hole saw bits (2” and 1”)
⅜” drill bit
Soil tamper
Wheelbarrow
Garden hose

Supplies to Purchase

Rocks
Pressure-treated lumber and spikes
Underlayment fabric
EPDM pond liner
Waterproof foam sealant
Waterfall pump
Hose kit and connections
Plastic sump basin and lid

Locate Utilities

Before digging, call a local service (811 in most areas) to have the utilities located and marked to avoid hitting underground lines.

Rough-Outline the Design

Lay out a rough outline of the design using a garden hose. Mark out the size and shape of the lower basin and upper pool, the waterfall location(s), and the outside edges of the streambed.

Once the design is established, use spray paint to mark the outline and remove the garden hose. At this time, you can also mark out where you’d like large, decorative boulders to go.

Dig Everything Out

Remove any turfgrass inside the outline you painted on the grass. Pull out any large rocks or other debris.

Dig out the spots intended for the lower basin and upper pool. The lower basin doesn’t need to be more than a few inches deep, but it should be at least a foot wider than the streambed.

In the lower basin, dig a hole at least six inches deeper than the height and two feet wider than the sump basin diameter. The sump basin will be set in this hole, surrounded by rocks.

Once the upper pool and bottom gravel are dug, begin creating the sloped streambed, working in small sections. You can vary the streambed slope in spots but remember to leave a flat area where you’ll be building the waterfall(s). Dig pools under the waterfall(s) to slow water flow.

Make sure the edges of the streambed are raised enough to create adequate depth in the stream, and the sides are level.

Compress the Dirt

Working your way through the entire feature, pack the dirt at the bottom of the upper pool, streambed, and bottom basin using the soil tamp. Compressing the ground keeps it from shifting under the water’s weight.

Build the Framework

Use pressure-treated lumber to create a simple framework for the edges of the streambed, anchoring it with spikes. Framing it solidifies the form so the streambed stays level.

Line the Streambed and Pools

Lay underlayment across all of the exposed dirt and then cover everything with pond liner, making sure to get both layers tucked well into the corners.

The pond liner should extend about two feet past the perimeter on every side. You can tape the edges where pieces overlap, but it isn’t necessary if you overlap pieces by at least 18”.

Install Sump Basin and Pump

Use the hole saw bits and the drill bit to create holes in the sump basin to allow water to reach the pump.

Attach the hose adapter to the pump and place the pump in the bottom of the basin. Feed the hose through one of the holes, attaching it to the hose adapter.

Place the sump basin and pump in the deeper hole you dug and run the water hose out of the lower basin.

Put the lid on the sump basin and fill the space in the hole, around the sump basin, with medium-sized rocks up to the basin lid.

Construct the Waterfalls

The waterfall rocks need to fit well together to force the water to go over the waterfall and create drops, so this step requires careful rock selection and planning. Dry-fit flat stones or large square rocks into place to form the waterfalls. Fill in the gaps with smaller stones.

Once the rocks are firmly in place, use foam sealant to adhere the stones to the pond liner and fill any cracks between rocks. After the foam is dried, run water over the waterfall to look for leaks underneath the spill stones. Fill leaks with foam, and repeat the process until all of the water goes over the waterfall.

Create the Outer Perimeter

Build an outer wall around the perimeter using the different rocks you purchased to create a berm. Mix and match large decorative boulders with smaller field rocks to create a natural look.

Add Rocks and Gravel To Complete

Intersperse larger rocks, river rocks, and gravel to cover the stream bed and fill the upper pool. Place bigger rocks where they would naturally fall if they cascaded down the stream.

Lastly, fill the entire lower basin with a few inches of smaller gravel, covering the sump basin lid.

Clean the Rocks

Starting at the top, spray all of the rocks with water and allow it to cascade down through the stream. When water starts collecting in the gravel basin, remove the pump hose from the upper pool and let the dirty water drain elsewhere. Continue running water through the stream until it runs clear.

Once the rocks are clean, securely tuck the water hose back into the upper pool and fill the stream.

Trim the Liner

With all of the construction completed, use your utility knife to trim the edges of the pond liner covering any liner that shows with gravel or smaller rocks.

Visitor’s Guide to the National Cherry Blossom Festival in Washington, D.C.

Cherry blossoms are a sure sign that spring has arrived, and there’s no better place to enjoy the beautiful sea of pink than the National Cherry Blossom Festival. Held every year in Washington, D.C, it is one of the most popular spring events in the country.

Spring is the time for revitalization and regrowth. Much like autumn, spring provides gorgeous colors, but this time a sea of pastel greens and pinks. Cherry blossoms are among spring’s best attractions, and one of the most spectacular places to check out the blooms is during the National Cherry Blossom Festival in Washington, D.C.

While the timing of the festival changes every year, over the years the schedule has extended to run across several weeks to increase chances that visitors will be able to see peak bloom. Peak bloom is defined as the day when 70% of the cherry blossom trees in the area have opened their buds. In general, the festival runs from mid-March through mid-April, though the organizers did make last-minute changes to the dates in 2017 and 2018 to accommodate an early bloom.

Of course, Washington isn’t the only place that has a cherry blossom festival, but it is the oldest and also the largest in the United States. Although the main event is definitely checking out the beautiful cherry blossoms, there’s much more to do over the three-week-long festival.

National Cherry Blossom Festival History

The effort to bring cherry trees to Washington started in 1885 with Eliza Ruhamah Scidmore, who had floated the idea to plant cherry trees along the Potomac River after her trip to Japan. Unfortunately, the initial idea was rebuffed, and it wasn’t until 1909 that Scidmore took matters into her own hands and raised money to buy cherry trees to donate to the District. She reached out to First Lady Helen Taft, informing her of her plans, who in turn agreed to the project.

At the same time, a Japanese chemist was also in Washington with Mr. Midzuno, the Japanese consul to New York City. When he learned of the plan to plant Japanese cherry trees along the speedway, he donated an additional 2,000 trees on behalf of Tokyo. Unfortunately, the original 2,000 trees had to be burned due to bug infestation. Luckily, Mayor Yukio Oazaki donated another 3,000 in 1912 to enhance the friendship between the U.S. and Japan. First Lady Helen Taft and Viscountess Iwa Chinda planted the first cherry trees on March 27, 1912.

Although the cherry trees were planted in 1912, the first Cherry Blossom Festival was held in late 1934, becoming an annual event in 1935. Since then, more events have been added to the festival to what is now a three-week cultural festival that more than 1.5 million people visit each year. The number of trees has grown to 3,750 over the years, featuring more than 16 varieties of cherry blossoms.

What to Do at the National Cherry Blossom Festival?

The highlight of the festival might be the cherry blossoms, but there’s a lot more to it than pretty flowers! The festival offers a variety of activities. Of course, if you want the best views of the cherry blossoms, there are a few key locations for some amazing pictures, many of which get very crowded. The most crowded place will be along Tidal Basin, so if you want to avoid the crowd, there are a few locations that are just as pretty and often have better views:

Hains Point. Not far from Tidal Basin, this area has the Yoshino trees as well as brighter Kwanzan trees for a lovely bloom of light and darker pink.
U.S. Capitol. Perhaps the most photographed spot during the National Cherry Blossom Festival, you can see a number of trees at the Lower Senate Park.
National Arboretum. A favorite among visitors, the National Arboretum offers a variety of cherry trees including a stunning weeping willow tree. You can drive, walk, or bike through the area and explore.
Kenwood, Maryland. If you don’t want to deal with the huge crowds, you might want to drive out to the suburbs. The cherry trees in the area were planted in the 1940s to entice new residents, and now you can enjoy the efforts with a nice drive or walk through the area.

After you’ve had your fill of cherry blossoms, there’s still plenty to do at the festival. In fact, there are over 200 family-friendly events and performances. New ones are added to the itinerary every year, but there are a few events that happen consistently every year:

Kite Festival. Fly your kite next to the Washington Monument.
Art in Bloom. Find 20 cherry blossom sculptures around Washington, created by local and national artists.
National Cherry Blossom Festival Parade. Watch a spectacular love letter to cherry blossoms full of singing and dancing.
Sakura Matsuri Japanese Street Festival. Learn more about Japanese culture and indulge in traditional Japanese food during this one-day celebration of Japanese culture in the U.S.

Support D.C.’s Cherry Trees

Maintaining all 3,000+ trees isn’t free and requires expert horticulturists and botanists to keep the trees healthy. More than 100 years of wear and tear, increasing foot traffic, and consistent flooding have taken their toll on these beautiful trees. In order to keep these trees healthy, the Trust for the National Mall started the Endow a Cherry Tree Campaign. If you have visited and enjoyed the Cherry Blossom Festival, or even if you haven’t attended yet, you can choose to adopt a cherry tree. Your donation will help support the care and nurturing of a tree all season long. The money is spent on pruning, mulching, fertilizing, and feeding the trees, which will preserve them for generations to come.

Even if you cannot adopt a tree at this moment, you can still make a one-time donation to support the effort. You can also start a fundraising team and collaborate with your peers to reach a goal to endow one or more trees. The goal of the endowment is to raise $3.7 million per year in order to care for all the trees on a yearly basis.

Visit the National Cherry Blossom Festival

There’s no better way to celebrate spring than to enjoy all the beauty that comes with it. The National Cherry Blossom Festival provides one of the most spectacular displays of nature and culture in the United States. Once you’ve soaked up the beauty of the blossoms, there’s so much to do in Washington, D.C., proper that you can easily spend a full week exploring the nation’s capital and visiting some of the best museums, botanical gardens, and zoos in the country.

How to Decorate Your Garden With Personality

Making an outdoor space your own takes time and attention. Here are 12 ways to decorate your garden to make it stand out and reflect your personality.

Creating an outdoor space you love can be a challenge. Plants are part of the equation, but many other elements are involved in setting up a backyard hangout that is comfortable, inviting, and visually interesting.

Don’t feel limited by what your local garden supply store sells — here are 12 creative ideas to serve as inspiration for decorating your outdoor space.

12 Ideas for Decorating Outdoors

There are endless ways to personalize your garden with creative décor elements. So long as you choose materials that can withstand rain, wind, and sun damage, you’re sure to enjoy the results for seasons to come.

1. Set Up a Victorian Birdcage

Few garden elements add more whimsical appeal than a vintage rustic birdcage swinging in the wind. Set one up under the protection of a tree or beside an outdoor table to cultivate a sense of a living room while you sit outside.

Birdcages not your thing? Consider setting up a vintage wheelbarrow or bicycle instead for an equally charming and quaint effect.

2. Hang Weatherproof Sheer Drapes or Botanical Prints Over Framing

If your garden contains an arbor, pergola, gazebo, or other permanent structure, consider personalizing it with sheer drapes or gorgeous botanical prints or fabrics — just make sure they are weatherproof. Not only will they offer some privacy and weather protection while keeping the heat out, but they offer a cost-effective way to personalize your space.

If you don’t want to purchase curtains pre-printed, consider decorating plain ones with painted imprints of leaves and other natural elements.

3. Create Pathways with Flat Stones

All gardens improve with a sense of structure. Create a path for guests to wander along with a flat stone paver pathway. Curved, unpredictable designs tend to be the most visually appealing. It’s also wise to think through what the garden visitor will see at every turn of the path, so consider adding small sculptures, fountains, or structures at certain focal points.

Tip: Make the stones even more unique by painting patterns on them first.

4. Paint Imprints of Leaves on Benches and Rocks

There’s no reason to stick with boring wooden furniture outdoors. Add some pizzazz with weatherproof paint. One easy method for those that are less artistic is to make paint imprints from leaves, ferns, and pine needles.

It’s also possible to purchase nature-inspired stencils for a more uniform look.

5. Laminate Your Seed Packets to Decorate Each Garden Row

You take pride in your plant varieties, so show it off with customized seed packet décor. Laminate the packets for weatherproofing and place them around the growing space for a pop of color and a reminder of your hard work. They can even be used at the head of garden rows as a reminder of what is planted where.

6. Set Thrifted Garden-Themed Plates and Table Settings on a Table

One trait of delightful garden spaces is the presence of the unexpected. So, bring the indoors outside with a dishware set on a dining table. Beautiful botanical-themed plates are available at low cost at many thrift stores, meaning you can easily mix and match for a unique collection.

Consider gluing them to the table if you want them on permanent display, or keep them stored safely to be ready to use whenever you host a garden dinner party.

7. Create a Backyard Teepee for Private Space

Create some cozy privacy in your yard with a backyard teepee, complete with pillows and blankets inside. It will quickly become a popular hangout spot for all ages to enjoy some time outdoors.

8. Utilize Solar Lights for a Magical Nighttime Landscape

The garden party doesn’t need to end when the sun goes down. Keep your space cozy with solar lanterns or hanging lights over your outdoor structures. Choose ones that mimic real flames for an extra element of surprise.

9. Make Sculptures from Glass Bottles

Skip recycling those glass bottles and turn them into one-of-a-kind garden décor. It’s possible to purchase wire “trees” for mounting the bottles on limbs or get creative with your own display ideas. You can even shatter the bottles to use the pieces in wet concrete for glass collages.

The greater variety of colors and sizes, the more visually interesting the result will be.

10. Create Ambience with Wind Chimes or a Water Fountain

Block out sounds of the busy world by planning for more peaceful noises in your garden. Wind chimes and water fountains are beautiful to look at and create soothing sounds that will lull you into calm. Make your own wind chime from found materials, or purchase them premade from garden stores.

11. Upgrade Your Fence with Potted Plants, Botanical Fabrics, and More

Add some character to a boring privacy fence with outdoor décor. One idea is to mount an old rake on the side, then use the prongs to hang planters and other décor elements.

You can also mount potted plants throughout it, or drape outdoor fabrics to cover any ugly spots. Another creative idea? Cut up fabrics to make banners or flags you can link together to hang along it.

12. Turn a Shed into an Outdoor Dining Space

Is there an unused garden shed sitting on your property? Consider turning it into a three-season dining space by taking out some of the sides. Add a table and chairs inside, and there’s no limit to how you can personalize the space.

Decorate Your Garden Today!

There’s nothing stopping you from making your backyard garden a personal retreat with charming décor. Let these tips inspire you to create an outdoor space that is worth spending time in.

How to Create a Pollinator-Friendly Garden

Creating a pollinator-friendly garden not only helps you maintain a healthy ecosystem but also provides you with gorgeous views. In order to attract beneficial pollinators, you’ll need to include a variety of plants to draw in different insects and birds.

While gardening has always been a popular hobby, since the start of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 it has grown by leaps and bounds, with no signs of slowing. In fact, many seed companies, like Baker Creek Seeds, have seen a huge increase in demand, and many have had to shut down their sites because they simply cannot keep up with the volume of sales. Here are the top reasons many homeowners cite for starting a garden:

While fruits and vegetables are a popular choice among gardeners, growing flowers is the most popular gardening activity at nearly 73% of surveyed homeowners. However, many casual gardeners do not take pollinators into consideration when choosing their plants. Attracting wildlife such as butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds not only makes your garden more visually appealing, it also helps your garden and the local ecosystem. So whether you’re planning to update a current garden or you’re starting a brand new one, here are some tips on how to attract more pollinators. The best part is that these tips work great whether you have a lot of space or you’re growing on a balcony!

Why Plant a Pollinator Garden?

You probably learned in elementary school about pollinators and how they help plants reproduce, but they also serve as an important part of a balanced ecosystem. With adequate pollination, plants:

Somewhere between 75%-95% of all flowering plants on Earth need help with pollination. For that, they need pollinators. While the No. 1 pollinator is the native honey bee, other pollinators include:

Butterflies
Small mammals
Flies
Moths
Beetles
Wasps
Birds
Bats

Unfortunately, pollinator populations are declining due to pollution, misuse of chemicals, disease, and changes in climate patterns. Luckily, you can help the population by creating a garden that welcomes pollinators of all kinds!

Plan Your Garden Wisely

Even if you already have started a garden, it might be time to give it another look to see if it is pollinator-friendly. While you don’t need to micromanage your garden, you should consider the following:

Location. Flowering plants can do well in both shady and sunny locations, but bees and butterflies tend to prefer hanging out in the sun. You should also think about including some other plants that can shield your pollinator-friendly plants from the wind.
Soil type. Take a look at your soil and look at its properties. Is it well-drained or compact? Is it a nice dark-brown color or is it sandy or red? You can check your county for a local soil mapper to learn more. Your soil type will determine what kind of plants you can grow. If you’re container gardening, make sure to choose soil that works for your plants as some might require more nutrients than others.
Resting areas. Pollinators need shelter to hide from predators, protect themselves against inclement weather, and raise their young. If you have the space, think about potential nesting sites to promote colonization of garden areas. Bee hotels are a great option if you have native solitary bees such as red mason bees, blue mason bees, leafcutter bees, and white-faced bees. Honey bees and bumble bees live in colonies, so the hotels likely won’t be used by them.
Have water. While the nectar from the plants provides a good food source for pollinators, they also need something to drink. You can put out special feeders for butterflies and hummingbirds that provide both food and water. If you don’t have enough space for that, you can put out a small basin or bowl to collect rainwater. This will attract bees, butterflies, and even birds!

Consider Your Plants

While it might be tempting to go for the plants that you personally find appealing, if you want to help out the pollinators, you’ll need to do a bit more research. In most cases, you’ll want to choose native plants over exotic ones as they tend to be heartier and they will attract native pollinators. Most native pollinators require very specific plants in order to grow and thrive. For example, larvae of Persius duskywing and frosted elfin butterflies only feed on wild lupine. Unfortunately, this plant has been supplanted by another, and as such these butterflies have become critically endangered.

You’ll also want to think about where you buy your plants from. Many large garden centers treat their plants with pesticides and neonicotinoids to kill pests. Unfortunately, these chemicals can also kill or harm pollinators and can stay in the leaves and pollen of these plants for up to seven years!

Choosing what plants to grow might sound overwhelming, but your local native plant or botanical society will often sell native plants or can provide you with a list of native plants and where to buy them. They can even provide a list of plants that support native pollinators. It might cost you a bit more initially, but if you invest in perennials, you’ll only need to purchase them once as they will grow back year after year. More importantly, you’ll be able to collect seeds and plant some more for next year’s garden!

When it comes to choosing your plants, make sure to consider the following:

Color. While insects and birds don’t see color the same way as we do, color is still very important in attracting pollinators. Butterflies tend to like orange, white, and yellow while bees are attracted to flowers that have ultraviolet signals. They also like yellow, blue, and purple flowers.
Shape. Flower shape is very important when it comes to attracting certain pollinators. Choose flowers that are small and tube-like to attract bees and moths. Butterflies need to land in order to eat, so mid-sized flowers with open petals are your best option.
Season. Pollinators require nectar from early spring to late fall so you’ll want to grow flowers that either bloom throughout the season or flowers that will bloom at different times to provide a consistent source of food.
Life cycle. Some plants will support pollinators throughout the entire life cycle, so it’s a good idea to plant some of these flowers. Monarch butterflies, for example, plant their seeds on milkweeds, which the larvae eat exclusively. Later when they become butterflies, they will drink nectar from the flowers.
Grouping. Try to group several of the same flowers together as it makes it easier for pollinators to gather food. It also helps you save on your water bills as you can group water-loving plants together.

Make Your Garden a Haven for Pollinators

While it might take a bit more research and effort, creating a pollinator-friendly garden is well worth it. You’ll be helping out your local pollinator population and also benefiting from a beautiful garden. The most important tip, in general, is to be patient! Pollinators won’t come overnight. However, if you provide the appropriate care for your plants and choose the right plants, they will find you eventually. In the meantime, you’ll have a great view!

Why You Should Use Galvanized Planters in Your Home and Garden

Galvanized planters are versatile, long-lasting, and great for both indoor and outdoor use since they resist rust. These containers are available in a variety of shapes, sizes, and styles, so there is an option to suit almost any need.

Galvanized planters are a great option for many types of container gardening. They can be used to complement a variety of decor styles, and also make a fantastic choice for raised beds or features in a flower garden.

What are Galvanized Planters?

Simply put, a galvanized planter is a container for plants that is made from galvanized metal. It might be intended to be a planter, or another type of container such as a bucket or trough that is repurposed to hold plants.

Galvanized metal is a popular material for a variety of uses because it is durable, strong, and rust-resistant. The process of galvanization simply means adding a coating of zinc on the base metal — iron or steel — to prevent rusting and offer protection against damage.

Advantages of Galvanized Planters

Galvanized planters offer several advantages that might make them the ideal choice for your home or garden. The main benefits of using galvanized planters include:

Long-lasting — can be used for 20 years or more
Durable — resists wear and tear
Inexpensive — even large sizes are usually affordable
Lightweight — lighter than many other metals
Rust-resistant — zinc coating helps prevent rust
Weatherproof — can go through extreme weather conditions with minimal damage
Low-maintenance — no need for repair or painting

Disadvantages of Galvanized Planters

There are some disadvantages to using galvanized planters as well. If these are major concerns for you, another type of planter might be a better option:

Luckily, if you love the look of galvanized metal planters, there are fixes for each of these issues. Try a layer of insulating foam or mulch between the metal sides of the container and the potting soil to avoid overheating, or keep the planter in a place where temperatures don’t get too high.

For drainage, you can drill holes in the bottom of the planter using a standard drill bit. Another option is to add a drainage layer before putting soil into the container. This layer could be a variety of materials; the purpose is for excess water to be able to drain into the bottom of the container, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. For a large container, try something lightweight such as plastic containers or styrofoam to keep the pot from getting too heavy. For a smaller planter, stones, chunky mulch, or pumice make good options.

Finally, if you are concerned that the non-porous galvanized metal will not allow enough air circulation around the roots of more sensitive plants, you can use the galvanized container as a cache pot. Simply place the plant into the desired container and then put the whole thing inside your galvanized planter.

What Kind of Decor is Suitable for Galvanized Planters?

Galvanized metal planters can fit into a variety of decoration styles depending on the shape and condition of the container. While many people think of galvanized planters as being exclusively for outdoor use, they also look great inside the home, too.

Farmhouse: Galvanized metal is a natural fit with farmhouse themes, which emphasizes a rustic, homey, and practical feeling. Using a galvanized planter in a farmhouse-style room brings to mind the actual farm equipment that is made from this material, like stock tanks.

Modern: Most any kind of metal will fit in with a modern decor, and galvanized metal is no exception. Shiny, new galvanized planters will suit a modern home more than weathered, antique-looking ones.

Industrial: Since galvanized metal is used extensively in industrial applications, it is a natural fit for a home or office with an industrial decor scheme.

Shabby chic: Antique (or antique-looking) galvanized planters suit decoration styles that use distressed and worn pieces. Since actual antiques can be quite expensive, you can always purchase a new galvanized planter and give it an aged appearance. You could even create a vintage-looking label to complete the look.

How to Choose a Galvanized Planter

The main considerations for selecting a galvanized planter fall into two categories: what you want and what’s best for your plants. However, with the wide variety of galvanized containers available, it should not be difficult to find the balance and choose a planter that covers all the bases.

For your plants, consider the size and shape of a galvanized planter that will work best. Is this a seasonal planting of annuals, or will you use the container long-term for the same plant? What kind of drainage do your plants need? How heavy will the planter be when it’s full? Be sure to get a galvanized planter that is not too big or too small for the plant you will be putting in it. If you find your plant is too small for the galvanized planter you like, you can always use the cache pot method instead of planting it directly.

Once you’ve determined what your plants will need, the factors of appearance and cost will determine which planter is the best choice. Remember that you do have options to change the appearance of a galvanized planter somewhat by painting it, aging it, or otherwise decorating it. Some people will not want to put in that kind of effort, but it could be an option for an almost-perfect planter.

How to Use a Galvanized Planter

Use a galvanized planter in the same way as you use other planters. It is fine to plant directly in the container, since the zinc coating should protect the metal against rusting or otherwise being damaged by contact with moisture and soil.

Depending on your plants, you may need to prepare the planter by drilling holes in the bottom or putting in a drainage layer before adding soil and plants. For larger containers, it is a good idea to prepare your planter in its ultimate location, since it may get heavy when it’s full of soil and plants.

Since galvanized metal lasts for years and years, you can reuse your planter in a variety of ways and locations as your needs and tastes change. A galvanized planter is a great investment because it is versatile and looks great whether it’s new or old!

How to Select High-Quality Plants

When picking out plants, it’s critical to pick the highest-quality ones. When choosing a plant, consider its growth, the coloring, and scout for any problems.

Picking out new plants, whether for the garden or to grow indoors, is fun for many people. They enjoy perusing through the rows and rows of gorgeous seedlings at the nursery or garden center. There’s no doubt that it is fun, but there also needs to be a serious side to it to ensure you pick the highest-quality plants to purchase.

Take a good look at the plant overall. Does it look healthy? Are the leaf colors standard for the plant type, and vibrant?

Beyond that, take time to look for the following issues, and avoid picking plants with any of these problems. While the situation itself may be easy to fix, you can’t undo any damage that has already occurred. The damage may not be clearly visible now but can show up later as reduced growth or lowered yield.

Leggy Plants

Leggy plants are tall and spindly, with elongated spaces between the leaf nodes and maybe a thin stem and pale yellow coloring. This signifies the plants aren’t getting enough light; the distances between the nodes should be compact. A plant’s growing tips are attracted to light, and when they aren’t getting enough, plant hormones elongate the stems to reach sunlight.

Reddish-Purple Leaf Coloration

A reddish-purple hue on the plant leaves is a symptom of phosphorus deficiency. It is common in seedlings shortly after they germinate and use up the nutrient reserves in the seed. It is easy to fix with an application of fertilizer, but the deficiency may have already impacted the plant’s growth and yield.

Insect Pests

Aphids, fungus gnats, and spider mites are common problems in indoor plants, especially when plants are grown close together in a greenhouse and the humidity levels are high. Pests are problematic because they can suck nutrients from the plants and increase susceptibility to disease. Look at the foliage for any signs of pests, especially under the leaves and in the crooks of the stems.

Brown Leaf Edges

Dry, papery, brown leaf tips and margins are a sign of underwatering and a cause for concern. When plants don’t receive enough water, photosynthesis may slow down or halt. Photosynthesis is the process within plants where water and carbon dioxide produce glucose and oxygen. The glucose is then used by plants to fuel metabolic processes, including growth.

Leaf Chlorosis

Chlorosis is a yellowing of leaves related to a lack of chlorophyll. Some possible causes of chlorosis include damaged or compacted roots, poor drainage, and nutrient deficiencies in the plant. Deficiencies of iron, manganese, and zinc are commonly associated with chlorosis because they are critical players in chlorophyll production.

Leaf Sunscald

White or really pale yellow leaves on a plant indicate sunscald, a problem similar to sunburn in humans. It occurs when plants are moved from filtered light conditions to an area where they are exposed to brighter sunshine or more UV rays. They aren’t prepared for this change in intensity, and the leaf tissues bleach out.

Mushy Leaves

Mushy leaves or stems are related to overwatering and could be a symptom of root rot. When plants are overwatered, it causes a lack of oxygen in the growing substrate, and the roots suffocate and drown. The low oxygen environment also triggers the growth of naturally occurring soil fungi that infect the roots. Once the roots are infected or smother, they can’t take in water, oxygen, and nutrients, and the plant perishes.

The major problem with root rot is once symptoms are visible as mushy leaves, the problem may be past the point of fixing.

Weeds

At first, it’s easy to assume that weeds aren’t a big problem, especially in a container plant. With the smaller pot, it’s easy to grab ahold of the weed and yank it out — problem fixed! But what isn’t fixable is that while the weed was growing alongside the seedling, it was pulling valuable resources like water and nutrients from the soil. Resources is needed fot the young plant’s optimum growth, battling against a competitor during its early stage of life, putting it at a disadvantage.

Rootbound Plants

As container plants grow, they develop intricate root systems that can quickly fill the growing media. When they are left in the same container over an extended period, the roots tangle and clump together. When this happens, the plant is considered rootbound, and it cannot pull in enough water to meet its needs.

Fungal Diseases

Fungal diseases are common in greenhouses where plants are watered from overhead — powdery mildew and botrytis especially. As the moisture sits on the leaves, fungi thrive because of warm air temperatures and a lack of air circulation if plants are grown close together.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew looks like a white powdery film on the leaves and stems of your plants, similar to a dusting of flour. It may darken to a gray color and move to the soil surface as it ages. Since it covers the leaf surface, it impairs photosynthesis because the plant doesn’t collect energy from sunlight. Over time it stunts plant growth.

Gray Mold

Gray mold occurs when airborne Botrytis fungal spores land on the plant foliage and make their way inside the leaves through wounds or other disease spots. As it reproduces, it appears as dusty, gray mold spores on the soil surface or in the densest foliage areas.

Mold

Mold on the potting soil of container plants is common, especially when plants are grown indoors, as the air temperature and relative humidity act as a catalyst for mold growth. Depending upon the type of mold, it can be innocuous, but it also may be problematic.

White Mold

White mold shows up as fuzzy growth on the soil’s surface with a downy appearance, looking cottony. This type of mold is typically a saprophytic fungus, which means it poses little harm to plants or the people in proximity.

Sooty Mold

Sooty mold is the one to be concerned about. It appears as black, sooty-looking patches on the plant and the soil surface. When you see sooty mold, it’s likely the plant is infected with a sap-sucking insect that secretes a substance known as honeydew. So the underlying problem is insect pests. This type of mold doesn’t harm the plant directly but can inhibit photosynthesis.

7 Steps to Prevent White Mold on Seedlings

White mold on seedlings or their soil indicates a problem in the growing environment. Mold thrives in warm, moist environments. Solve the problem by adjusting environmental conditions like temperature, light, humidity, and airflow.

Unfortunately, white mold is a common issue when starting seeds. Most seedlings need conditions that are both warm and moist, and those conditions are also perfect for the development of mold. However, seedlings are likely to die off if white mold is present.

What Kind of Mold is White Mold?

White mold is not a particular variety of mold; instead, this term is used to refer to any of the many types that are white or very light in color. For many gardeners, it is difficult to identify what type of mold is attacking the seedlings, since they often look similar to one another. Among the most common types of fungus that attack seedlings are powdery mildew, Fusarium, Rhizoctonia, and saprophytic mold.

Some types of white mold grow on the seedlings themselves, but the more common types grow on potting soil and feed on decaying organic matter. So, while these do not directly damage the seedlings, they indicate a problem in the environment that is harmful to plants.

Ultimately, most gardeners won’t need to identify the specific type of mold that is on their seedlings, since prevention and treatment is the same regardless.

Is White Mold Bad for Seedlings?

Seedlings can survive a bit of white mold, especially if it is removed promptly. However, if no changes are made to the seedlings’ environment once mold is detected, the seedlings are likely to die off soon.

Mold on seedlings leads to a condition called damping off. Symptoms of damping off include visible white, fluffy mold on the seedling; soft, thin stems; and discolored and soft leaves. Under the surface of the soil, the roots are smaller than expected and weak.

Once the seedlings show signs of damping off, they are unlikely to recover. It is best to start over with fresh seeds and try to avoid the same issue occurring again in the future by adjusting environment conditions.

Removing White Mold

If you see white mold growing on the surface of the soil around your seedlings but there is no damping off, the mold can be removed by simply scraping it away with a sterilized garden knife. This will not get rid of all of the mold, and it will come back quickly if this is the only step you take. However, this should help eradicate the mold when combined with the following steps.

Preventing White Mold

Preventing white mold from taking hold in the first place is preferable to trying to remove it later — it is both more effective and easier. Ideally, all of the seven steps below will be used in combination to avoid white mold affecting your seedlings.

1. Sterilize Your Tools

Firist, it is important to avoid introducing mold to the seedlings’ environment. This may seem obvious, but many people overlook the important step of sterilizing containers and tools before planting seeds.

Thoroughly sterilize tools and equipment to kill off any mold spores that may be present. There are several good options, so choose whichever one you have on hand:

2. Use the Proper Medium

Mold develops on potting soil that is too wet, which is why it’s important to choose a proper medium. It should be lightweight to allow enough air to circulate and water to drain freely. Avoid using a potting medium that contains compost or manure when starting seeds. It is best to use a specific seed-starting mix that is lightweight to allow adequate drainage.

A good seed-starting mix might contain vermiculite, coco coir or peat moss, and perlite or pumice. These ingredients will ensure plenty of air circulation and drainage, but this mix does not contain any organic matter to provide nutrients to the seedlings. After they have developed true leaves, seedlings can be fertilized with a liquid fertilizer. Fertilizer provides them with the nutrients that would have otherwise come from the compost or manure in a regular potting mix.

3. Avoid Overly Moist Soil

While it’s important that seedlings not dry out, it is also equally vital that they not be overwatered. Mold is a clear sign that the potting medium is too wet, which can quickly lead to your seedlings rotting.

Check your seedlings at least every couple of days to be sure that the soil retains the right balance of moisture. Be sure to plant seedlings only in containers that have drainage holes. Seedling trays are the ideal container for starting seeds, but other options can also be adapted to the task.

4. Improve Airflow Around Seedlings

Many seedlings are grown inside closed containers that allow for very little airflow, but this kind of environment makes it more likely that white mold will be able to develop. Proper airflow keeps the environment from getting overly moist by promoting evaporation, and also prevents mold spores from being able to establish themselves. Once seeds have sprouted, it is a good idea to add some ventilation for at least part of the day.

If the seedlings are growing in an enclosed tray with a lid, open it part-way or remove it for several hours a day to allow air to move around the seedlings. In a larger space, a fan can be used to increase airflow.

5. Maintain the Proper Temperature

Many people use a heating mat to encourage seeds to germinate, but it is best to turn it down or off once they have sprouted. Try to keep the temperature within the recommended range for the type of seeds you are growing, since higher temperatures encourage mold growth and can also overheat new seedlings.

6. Provide Proper Light Levels

Light is one of the most important factors in guaranteeing a suitable environment for seedlings to flourish while discouraging white mold growth. Seedlings generally need up to 16 hours of bright, indirect sunlight per day to stimulate growth and speed up evaporation.

If the season or location are not sufficient to provide the correct light levels to your seedlings, consider supplementing with a grow light that will encourage seedlings to develop properly.

7. Don’t Overcrowd Seedlings

Many gardeners plant multiple seeds close together, in order to increase the odds of some viable seeds sprouting. However, if many or all of the seeds end up being successful, you can end up with too many seedlings in a small space that will crowd one another.

Too many seedlings growing close together can lead to fungus, as there is not enough airflow around the developing roots. This can be remedied by pinching out the smallest seedlings to allow the stronger ones to have more suitable conditions. You may also want to repot seedlings into their own individual containers once they have several sets of leaves. This will allow them proper drainage and aeration, and avoid the issue of overcrowding.

Conclusion

White mold on seedlings can be alarming, but it can often be treated by changing the environmental conditions. Mold grows best in humid locations without much air circulation, so be sure to allow the seedlings a chance to dry out a bit and don’t let them sit in a damp location. With a few simple tweaks to your seedling set-up, you can avoid issues with white mold in the future.

Common Lilacs: Exorcism, Renewal, and Youth

Lilac is a perennial deciduous shrub of Syringa in the Oleaceae family. It is native to the rocky hills of the Balkan Peninsula. In spring, it produces a lovely, romantic cluster of flowers. Lilac flowers are delicate and come in various colors, from pink and white to blue and purple. Besides being the perfect spring garden shrub, it also provides fresh-cut flowers. Most importantly, the lilac’s floral fragrance is one of the most unforgettable scents in the plant world.

Places of Interest

1. Rochester, New York

Rochester, New York, has held the Lilac Festival since 1898. The oldest festival in North America, it features 1200 lilacs representing more than 500 varieties, many of which were developed in Rochester. This festival presents the most elaborate collection of varieties of lilacs we know of.

2. Lombard, Illinois

Lombard, Illinois, is known as the “Lilac Village.” A Lilac Festival and parade are held here every May with more than 200 kinds of lilacs and over 50 tulip varieties to enjoy.

3. The Arnold Arboretum in Boston, Massachusetts

The Arnold Arboretum in Boston, Massachusetts celebrates Lilac Sunday every May. The botanical garden displays more than 422 lilacs, including 194 different varieties. If you plan to go, choose a Sunday in May because Sunday is the only day you are allowed to have a picnic in the botanical garden.

Lilac in the perspectives of different countries

Many plants yearn for a warm and sunny paradise in the South and West of the United States, but lilacs are different. They prefer a cold or cool climate so they can rest at lower temperatures and grow flowers. In some temperate regions of Asia, such as northern China, some relatives of the lilac (Syringa oblate) also bloom in the spring after experiencing the cold. This kind of lilac is beloved by some poets. Their unopened flowers look like a cross knot, which is seen as a symbol of beauty and sadness.

blooming lilac flowers that look like a cross knot

Lilacs are widely welcomed in Europe and the United States, but carry different symbolic meanings in different places. Russians hang them on cribs as a sign of wisdom. In Victorian England, lilacs symbolized old love and were often worn by widows. American legend has it that placing fresh lilac flowers in haunted houses can ward off ghosts. Lilac is the state flower of New Hampshire because it is originated from the rocky hills of the Balkan Peninsula, which is symbolic of the hardy character of the men and women of the Granite State.

Lilacs live such a long life that some lilacs outlive the houses they were planted beside.

Tips for keeping lilac flowers

Lilacs have a very short flowering period. It usually withers after swaying in the spring wind for two weeks. Many people grow lilacs just for the fragrance of these two weeks. However, there are other ways to enjoy lilac flowers, one of which is to put it into all kinds of food. After all, lilacs are edible! Cake and ice cream will appear more beautiful and appetizing when dressed with lilacs. Soaking lilacs in vodka results in a lavender wine used to make enticing cocktails. Make sure the lilacs are clean and safe. In addition, lilac can also be used to make bath salts or handmade soap. If you bathe with it, you can enjoy the lovely smell of fresh spring.

Edible lilacs.

Lilac and art

Lilacs heal people’s hearts and inspire artists. Van Gogh and Monet both painted touching depictions of lilacs.

Van Gogh had already lived in a mental hospital when he created this bright portrait. He volunteered to live there because he realized he had lost his ability to care for himself. This bush of lilacs bloomed outside his room and reminded him that spring had come.

Lilac Bush, 1889, by Vincent Van Gogh.

Monet also painted several works related to lilac, studying the change of light by depicting lilac flowers. The beautiful scene of people sitting under the lilac tree also inspires people to have their own lilac in the garden.

Lilacs in the Sun, 1872, by Claude Monet.

Lilacs, Grey Weather, Claude Monet, 1872. Orsay, Paris.

Can I grow a decent lilac?

It doesn’t take a lot of effort to plant lilac, but remember these points: lilac requires neutral soil with good drainage, so do a soil test before planting. If it is acid, improve the soil condition first. On the other hand, if your soil is in good condition, lilac doesn’t need extra fertilization, because too much nitrogen will lead to a poor flowering.

Pruning is necessary if you want your lilacs to bloom more or maintain a shape. You can prune the lilac when the flowers have withered; just leave a third of the bush by the end. Proper pruning also promotes air circulation and reduces the risk of infection.

Size: 2-5 m (6-16 feet) tall and 2.5-3.5 m (8-12 feet) wide

Hardiness: USDA Hardiness Zones 3-7

Sunlight: full sun

Soil: rich, well-drained, loamy soil with a neutral soil pH

Bloom Time: spring

Yoshino Cherry: Transience of Life, Respect, and Rebirth

Yoshino cherry (Prunus × yedoensis ‘Somei-yoshino’) stands out among all deciduous ornamental trees with its beautiful flowers, which blossoms before new leaves sprout in early spring. It’s sensational when clusters of cherry blossoms pop up on the branches every year, which last for about 2-3 weeks before quickly raining off to the ground.

The typical Yoshino cherry blooms in extremely pale pink and emits a slightly sweet, almond-like smell. A single tree could blossom with over a thousand flowers, and no matter you are viewing the flourishing blossoms or the falling petals, it’d impress you like a lush dream made of pinky clouds. There are also varieties with multi-layered petals among common gardening species, whose flowers are mainly in white or pink color schemes.

These small trees are mostly 6-12 meters in height. There are also compact varieties that are only 4-5 meters tall, which are perfect for small gardens and make a nice scene next to a pavilion. The trees’ round tops not only ooze with Oriental appeal but also provide shades to the gardens, which is hard to come by. In summer, the broad-spreading branches, silky bark and dark-green leaves of Yoshino cherry trees contribute a sense of tranquility to the view of the gardens, yet their flowers and fruits lure butterflies and birds respectively, adding dynamics to a serene picture.

If we must name a disadvantage of Yoshino cherry, probably only its life span is worth mentioning. As an ornamental tree, Yoshino cherry lives a relatively short life. Though there are a few ancient longevous exceptions, most Yoshino cherry trees live for only 15-20 years.

A Charming Origin

Yoshino Cherry’s origin had remained a mystery until recent years when analytical techniques of genetics probed into this area. Nowadays, botanists have finally traced the paternal origins of Yoshino cherry, claiming the hybrid to descend from Oshima cherry (P. speciosa) as the male parent and Edo higan cherry (P. pendula f. ascendens) as the female parent. Both the parent species are renowned ornamental plants; “Amagi-Yoshino”, another descendant variety from the same male and female parents in switched positions, is also a famous ornamental species.

Amagi-Yoshino cherry

The only thing botanists haven’t reached a consensus on yet is Yoshino cherry’s hybridization process, whether it’s natural or intervened by men’s cultivation.

The Cherry Blossom Diplomacy between the US and Japan

Yoshino cherry originates from Japan and stands at the core of Japanese cultural symbols. How come there is a massive Cherry Blossom Festival every year in Washing, D.C., the American capital thousands of miles away from Japan? Where did those cherry trees come from?

In the early 20th Century, Japanese immigrants lived through a chain of unfair mistreatments like segregation and discrimination in the US, which caused a temporary tense relationship between the two nations. In 1909, then First Lady of America Helen Taft wished to introduce the beautiful cherry blossoms into the US, which her husband, President William Howard Taft, immediately recognized as an opportunity to improve the US-Japan relationship. Luckily, Yukio Ozaki, the mayor of Tokyo at that time, also aimed to seize the chance and show friendship to the US. This opened doors to a series of discussions that made the plan of introducing cherry trees to the US possible and executable.

The first batch of cherry seedlings to cross the Pacific and reach the US West Coast amounts to 2,000 plants. However, after landing in Seattle, quarantine inspectors found them infected with crown gall and carrying at least 9 invasive pests. This put an unfortunate early end to the “cherry blossom diplomacy”.

But President Taft soon sent another invitation and Mayor Yukio Ozaki shipped in another 3,020 seedlings of cherry trees. In March 1912, First Lady Taft, together with the wife of the Japanese Ambassador to the US, planted those trees along the bank of the Tidal Basin, half of which were Yoshino cherry and the other half Kanzan cherry that bloom late. This act boosted the US-Japan relationship and helped it progress in the long run.

Kanzan cherry blossoms with multi-layered petals

After WWII, Japan bestowed another 3,800 cherry trees upon the US in 1965 because the early batch’s life span was up. The young trees replaced their aging predecessors and become the pink colony we see today at D.C.’s Cherry Blossom Festival.

Can I grow Yoshino cherry well?

Yoshino cherry likes light, warm temperature, humidity, and fertilizing soil. Therefore, special care in the growing environment is important when planting it.

To avoid frost damage, the best time to plant Yoshino cherry trees is in early spring, after frost season is over. In regards to location, in regions with frost damage, the airy northwestern slope is ideal where temperature rises slowly in spring. Be aware to stay away from windy areas. The trees need a 4-hour direct sunlight guarantee daily.

Insufficient light reduces blossom quantity, so keep in mind that plant orientation is also crucial. Yoshino cherry is not picky on soil type but prospers best in thick porous sandy loam with excellent breathability and water-retaining capability. It could tolerate drought, heat, and soak to a degree, but must be kept away from saline-alkali soil.

After successful planting, you can add some organic soil cover to protect Yoshino cherry’s shadow root system, which isn’t tolerant of stomping either, so special care is needed to keep the planting site away from being trampled on by livestock or rolling stock. Fertilizing once each winter with fermented organic manure and once after flower abscission with active acid fertilizers helps the trees bloom more next year.

Yoshino cherry is vulnerable to pests and diseases like caterpillars, leaf miners, bacterial cankers, blights, etc. Keeping the treetops airy with unblocked ventilation could reduce the chance of pests and diseases to some extent.

Size: 6-9 m (20-30 ft) in height, 6-9 m (20-30 ft) in the spread

Hardiness: USDA Zones 5-8

Sunlight: Full sun; partial shade

Soil: Moist and well-drained, slightly acidic, drought tolerant

Bloom time: early- to mid-spring

Garden Tulip: Perfect Love, Beauty

Tulips (Tulipa gesneriana) are the most popular bulbous flower, and one of the most popular flowers in spring. Few people know it is a perennial herb that spends the winter in the bulb. The flowers are large and colorful; red, yellow, white, and pink are the most common. These elegant and exotic flowers have been popular since they were introduced into Europe in the late 16th century.

In Europe, the tulip is known as “the queen of flowers.” Thanks to a hundred years of effort, horticulturists have registered more than 3,000 tulip varieties, despite the fact that there are about 15 different varieties in one similar flower pattern.

Place of Interest

The best place to view tulips is the famous Keukenhof Park in the Netherlands—a sea of seven million tulip bulbs. Arrive at the park in the early morning; it will be difficult to take great photos when the park is crowded.

You can also drive around outside of the Keukenhof park. In Lisse, the endless tulip fields will definitely leave you in awe.

Around April every year, the International Istanbul Tulip Festival takes place in the Emirgan Park in Istanbul, Turkey. It exhibits various new varieties cultivated locally and abroad, and local art performances. The festival lasts for 20 days. Not only are the parks filled with tulips, but the gardeners plant millions of tulips in Istanbul’s public spaces. The whole city of Istanbul is a sea of tulips at this time of the year.

Besides the Netherlands and Turkey, Canada holds the Canadian Tulip Festival every year in Ottawa, which has a history of nearly 70 years. The festival takes place in Commissioner’s Park, with dozens of tulip varieties and more than 300,000 flowers.

The Netherlands Or Turkey?

Although the Netherlands comes to mind first when it comes to tulips, tulips are actually from Turkey. Tulips are almost everywhere in Turkey. Since the 12th century, they have been widely used in pictures, stone carvings, wood carvings, ceramic tiles, carpets, curtains, clothing, and other decorations.

The beautiful cup-shaped flowers and attractive bright colors make them the favorite flower in the hearts of the Turkish people. In the palace of the Ottoman Empire, the most frequently used flower patterns were tulips. Moreover, tulips are often depicted in Turkish poems and songs that praise their beauty, nobility, and sanctity.

The Dutch word “Tulp” is a transliteration of the Turkish “tülbend,” which originally meant turban. To the Ottoman Turks, tulips are like their headscarves. When the ambassador of the Holy Roman Empire (O. G. de Busbecq, 1522-1592) traveled to Ottoman Turkey, he named the tulip “Tulp” because he often saw the flower on the turban of the Turks.

The first economic bubble in history

Tulips were introduced into the Netherlands in 1593. Due to the short time frame and the limited quantity when of its introduction to Europe, tulips became extremely expensive. In France, the country that advocated pomp and luxury, many dignitaries displayed tulips as luxury goods to flaunt their wealth. Their wife would wear tulip ornaments on evening dresses as a symbol of status.

Driven by this extravagant lifestyle, the price of luxury tulip varieties rose day by day. The sharp rise in price attracted a large amount of foreign capital to the Netherlands, fueling the tulip trade. The price of tulip futures contracts skyrocketed. In a month after October 1636, the price of tulips increased ten times.

The tulip bubble lasted only a winter. After the spring of 1637, the government of the Netherlands intervened in the chaotic flower market. Prices dropped to 1 percent at first and then down to 1 thousandth. This is the earliest case of the bubble economy in human history.

Can I grow a decent tulip?

Planting tulips from bulbs will be interesting for beginners because it is pretty easy to get blooming tulips. Tulips prefer sunlight and have medium water requirements. Try to avoid planting them too close together.

In open field planting, plant in late October. The spacing between the bulbs should be at least 14 cm (5.5 inches), while the depth of the bulb should be about 25 cm (10 inches). When potting, select a medium-sized pot and add a new pot mix. Then, bury the bulb, making sure the bulb tip is perpendicular to the surface of the soil. After planting, add water and place it in a cool place for three to five days. Then place in a ventilated, sunny place. Whether in garden, field, or pots, tulips require the right amount of fertilizer for better growth.

Please be careful not to let your pet eat your tulips, as they are toxic to cats, dogs, and horses.

Size: 10-72 centimeters (4-28 inches) in height, depending on species

Hardiness: USDA Zones 4-6

Sunlight: Full sun to partial shade

Soil: Fertile sandy soil, well-drained

Bloom time: Spring