How to Plant Tomatoes in Your Garden

How to Plant Tomatoes in Your Garden

Growing tomatoes is a rewarding summer activity, even for beginning gardeners. Give your plants the right start, and you’ll soon be enjoying a bumper crop of fresh produce.

Tomatoes are a classic garden crop — and for good reason. Not only are they space-efficient and suitable for a range of growing conditions, but they are impressive producers that leave you with an abundance of garden bounty for your efforts. Best of all, tomatoes are relatively easy to grow, even for beginners.

Whether you plan to start your plants from seed or purchase seedlings from a local nursery, this guide will help you get your best crop of tomatoes yet. But be warned — one bite of a homegrown tomato, and you’ll never be satisfied with store-bought again.

What Kind of Tomato?

Your first decision is whether to purchase tomato transplants or start the crop from seed. The biggest advantages of starting seeds are low costs and greater variety. You can buy a packet of 20+ seeds for the price of one seedling and can choose from dozens more varieties than offered at most nurseries.

Either way, it’s essential to know what kind of variety you’re growing. Tomatoes come in three main types:

Tomatoes can also be determinate or indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes will produce one crop of fruit and stop, while indeterminate will produce throughout an entire growing season.

How to Start Tomatoes from Seed

Starting tomatoes from seed is easier than most think and takes minimal space.

1. Plan the Timing

It takes between 6-8 weeks for tomatoes started from seed to be ready to go in the garden. Leave them indoors too long, and they will grow too leggy and become less adaptable to outdoor conditions.

So, count back from the last predicted frost date for your region and start your seeds indoors according to this timeframe. Ideally, you should be getting your plants outside one week after the last frost.

2. Prep Your Containers

There’s no limit to the kinds of containers you can use for starting seeds. Standard plastic 1020 seed trays work well, or you can use biodegradable paper cups. Some people save plastic containers all year for starting seeds. Whatever you use, make sure the containers are thoroughly cleaned before use and have drainage holes along the bottom.

3. Get a Seed Starting Mix

Tomato plants can only grow as healthy as the soil they’re planted in. Give them the best start with a high-quality potting mix that contains plenty of nitrogen. The best mixes tend to include a combination of peat, vermiculite, and perlite. Make sure it isn’t packed too tightly, so the roots have space to expand.

4. Plant Carefully

Once the soil is prepped, you’re ready to plant. Tomato seeds should only go one quarter-inch deep; otherwise, they may struggle to sprout. Ensure the soil is thoroughly moistened, and label each variety to keep things organized. You can speed up germination with a plastic cover placed over the seed trays.

5. Provide Light and Moisture

Keep the planters in a space with plenty of light — south-facing windows or grow lights will work well. Any “leggy” growth is a sign you need to boost the lighting. The soil should stay consistently moist but not oversaturated. Too much water, and you’ll encourage rot.

You should start to see seedlings emerge within two weeks.

How to Harden Tomato Seedlings

After 6-8 weeks of growth, your tomato seedlings will be sturdy plants with true leaves. Now it’s time to start acclimating them to outdoor conditions. This process, called hardening, needs to happen slowly. Move too fast, and you’ll shock the plants beyond recovery.

Start by bringing your seedlings outdoors for a few hours. Extend the time daily, so they are gradually introduced to more sunlight. After two weeks, they should be ready to stay outdoors permanently.

Note: Hardening is also essential for nursery-grown tomatoes.

Prepping Garden Beds for Tomatoes

Tomatoes thrive in nitrogen-rich soil with good drainage. They are excellent candidates for raised beds if your backyard soil isn’t ideal.

Several weeks before planting, check the planting location to ensure it’s workable at least 8-10 inches down. Consider performing a soil test to determine what amendments to add. A healthy dose of aged compost is always a good idea.

Tomatoes need warm soil. Speed up the process in the spring by covering the ground with black plastic to absorb the heat. This will also prevent weed germination before planting.

How to Plant Tomatoes

Wait to plant tomatoes until a cloudy day after the risk of frost has passed. Water the seedlings well beforehand, and dig holes in the soil slightly larger than the pot they are grown in. Take care to disturb the roots as little as possible to reduce planting stress.

Tomatoes thrive when buried deep, as it encourages a strong root system. Space each plant at least 18-inches apart, and add a light layer of mulch around the base of the plants. This will reduce weed competition and help retain soil moisture.

Tomato Plant Maintenance

Keep the plants weed-free and well-watered throughout the summer, staking or trellising the plants as they start to grow tall. Consider feeding them with a tomato-specific fertilizer if you see signs of struggle — especially as the fruit begins to form.

By giving tomatoes the best start at the beginning of the growing season, you’re setting yourself up for relatively easy maintenance for the rest of the summer. Relax now that the hardest work is done, and start planning how you will put your backyard tomato harvest to use.

5 Steps for Making a Vegetable Planting Bed

5 Steps for Making a Vegetable Planting Bed

When you’re ready to expand your vegetable garden, it may be a good time to install a new planting bed. The process doesn’t have to be overwhelming; here are the steps to success.

Warmer weather means just one thing to plant lovers — it’s time to start gardening! That’s also the perfect time to create a new garden bed.

However, creating a new planting space isn’t as simple as pulling up weeds and planting seeds. You need to correctly set up the planting bed to give plants the best chance of success and to ensure that it’s a space you can maintain for years to come.

Not sure where to begin? Here’s a guide for getting started.

Which Style of Garden Bed?

Most gardeners start the spring season full of enthusiasm and ready to get dirty. It can be tempting to immediately toss seeds in the ground to get started on the action. However, without prepping for the right kind of soil, you’ll be left without much to show for your effort.

The first step is deciding what kind of planting space you want. The two main options for a permanent vegetable garden are raised beds and in-ground beds.

Raised Beds

These growing spaces are contained in boxes and elevated off the ground. They can be made from wood, metal, cinder blocks, and almost any material that won’t leach toxins into the planting space.

The advantage of growing in raised beds is that it gives you complete control of the soil quality. If your ground is naturally rocky, sandy, waterlogged or lacking in nutrients, growing in a raised bed lets you avoid these complications by bringing in optimal soil instead.

In-Ground Garden Beds

These traditional garden beds are created directly in the ground. They cost less to set up because you aren’t buying building materials or yards of soil. However, they can be harder to maintain and keep weed-free, and you may need to add more soil amendments in the long run because they will leach out of the planting space into the surrounding soil.

Note: The rest of this article will focus on establishing in-ground garden beds.

Choosing a Vegetable Garden Location

The first step to establishing a vegetable planting bed is to choose a location. Ideally, you want a space with full sun exposure and soil that’s naturally nutrient-rich with good drainage.

Other factors worth considering:

Preparing Soil for a Garden Bed

Once you’ve chosen the best location for your garden bed, it’s time to prep the soil. Vegetables need to grow in nutrient-rich ground that contains lots of organic material. It’s a good idea to pay for a soil test to determine what your land is deficient in so you can amend it right away.

Follow these steps to prep space for planting vegetables:

1. Remove Sod and Weeds

When you start a garden bed from scratch, the odds are good it’s covered in grass or a thick layer of yields. The first step is removing them to leave you with a blank slate of soil.

Use a long-handled, flat-bladed shovel to cut the bed into strips to make pulling weeds and sod easier. Start around the outside of the bed and work your way into the middle until only bare dirt is left behind.

2. Create a Border

The best garden beds are well-defined in the space. This prevents weeds and grasses from creeping in and helps you know precisely where to apply amendments so you don’t waste them.

Use edging to create a natural border around your bed. This can be anything from black plastic landscaping material to bricks, rocks, or even a wooden fence. Just make sure the material goes far enough in the ground to prevent weeds from growing through.

3. Amend the Soil

Once the soil is bare, it’s time to amend it for growing vegetables. Ideally, you’ll want to add lots of aged manure or organic compost to infuse it with nutrients. Make sure you research how thick to distribute the compost so you don’t accidentally overload the soil.

Once added, mix it into the top few inches of soil to ensure that plant roots can easily access it.

Note: You may need to adjust your amendments based on what you plan to grow in the bed. Too much of certain nutrients, such as nitrogen, can cause plants to put all their energy into leaf production at the expense of flowers and fruit. That’s fine if you want to harvest kale, but bad news if you prefer tomatoes.

4. Till the Soil (if Needed)

There are many philosophies around tilling soil. Some people prefer to leave the ground as-is so not to disturb the microbial life within it. Others till regularly to remove weeds and make it easier to work.

No matter your perspective, it’s usually smart to till at least once when establishing a new garden bed to create a clean slate with less weed competition for your new plants. Consider turning up the soil by hand with a shovel or pitchfork, or use a small rototiller to make the process easier.

5. Add Mulch

It’s unnatural for soil to be left uncovered for long. Not only will leaving it bare make it dry out quickly, but it also leads to erosion and leaves you without the nutrients you’ve put into it.

For this reason, it’s wise to cover vegetable beds soon after prepping them. Look for biodegradable materials like straw or leaf litter that will break down within a season and add more nutrients to the soil.

Prepping a new vegetable bed can be a challenge, but the fun part comes soon after! Enjoy planting seeds and seedlings in your new garden space, and you’ll enjoy the fruits of your effort all season long.

What Garden Chores You Need to Do Before Summer Arrives

What Garden Chores You Need to Do Before Summer Arrives

There is always work to do in the garden, especially in late spring. Read on to learn a few of the most important garden tasks you should complete before the summer months arrive.

If you want your garden to be as beautiful and productive as possible during the summer, you need to put in some work during the spring. Specifically, the maintenance tasks you complete in the late spring can work wonders for your garden and allow it to grow healthily throughout the rest of the growing season. Here is a breakdown of what those tasks are and how you can complete them on your own.

5 Important Garden Tasks to Complete in Late Spring

As you likely know, there are many gardening activities you can do in spring. However, many gardeners fail to recognize which of these activities is most important during the late spring months. Below are five essential late-spring tasks that you should not neglect:

Each of those chores plays a different role in your garden’s health. Continue reading to learn how you can implement each one.

Prune Spring-Blooming Trees and Shrubs

While many plants do best with early-spring pruning, there are other tree and shrub species that you should avoid pruning at those times. Specifically, woody plants that bloom in the spring should not receive pruning cuts until later in the season. Pruning these plants too early will remove their flower buds and diminish their seasonal blooms.

If you have spring-blooming plants that hold their buds on old wood, wait until the blooms have faded in late spring. Then make pruning cuts to remove dead and damaged limbs, and shape the plant to your liking. As always, you should study the specific pruning needs of your plants before you start removing branches.

Harvest Plants That Bear Fruit in Spring

If you choose to plant edible plants in the fall, then you can expect many of them to be ready for harvest in the spring season. Plants such as onions and spring-bearing strawberries are among the plants that you’ll want to harvest at this time. Harvesting your plants in late spring not only gives you some healthy produce to eat, but it also supports the health of your plants and gives you space to plant more crops to harvest later.

Plant Crops to Harvest in Summer and Fall

As the last section suggested, late spring can be a time to harvest some plants. It is also an ideal time to plant edible species that will be ready for harvest in the summer and fall. In fact, some of the most popular garden vegetables can go into the ground during this season.

Tomatoes and honeydew are among the plants that thrive in the warm soil that late spring and summer can provide. Planting such fruits and vegetables in mid to late spring gives them plenty of time to develop over the growing season, making for an ample harvest a few months later.

Prepare Your Beds for Summer Heat

The hot temperatures that accompany the summer season can be a threat to your plants. Strong sunlight can cause your plants to dry out and decline, especially during heat waves or periods of extreme drought. Fortunately, there are ways that you can anticipate and prepare for the summer heat.

One of the most reliable methods for combating harsh summer weather is to cover your planting beds with a thick layer of organic mulch. Mulch layers help the soil retain moisture and minimize sudden temperature shifts.

At times, you may have advanced notice about a heatwave. When you get such notice, you would be wise to begin watering your beds in advance. Providing water ahead of a hot summer dry spell gives your plants a much better chance of remaining hydrated and healthy.

Transfer Indoor Plants Outside

Many gardeners grow container plants that enjoy warm weather year-round. The best way to do that in colder regions is to overwinter those plants until the cold weather has subsided. Typically, late spring is a safe time to reintroduce your indoor plants to the outdoors. However, you should pay attention to your plant’s needs and the specifics of your local climate to determine the perfect time to transfer these plants outside.

Conclusion

Tending to a garden is a year-round effort, and late spring is one of the most crucial times to perform some vital garden maintenance. If you follow the advice in this article and complete the five tasks described, you can rest assured that your garden will be vigorous and attractive for months to come.

Poppy Anemone

Poppy Anemone

Wildly popular as cut flowers, Anemone coronaria are just as at home in an ornamental garden as they are in a floral arrangement. With papery petals in an array of colors arranged around a striking dark central eye, the blooms bear a strong resemblance to poppies.

Anemone coronaria is also known as the poppy anemone, windflower, and Spanish marigold. Perennial in its native habitats — Israel, Greece, Turkey, and throughout the Middle East — in cooler climates it is typically cultivated as an ornamental flower.

The Poppy Anemone in Legend and Myth

In Arabic, the poppy anemone is called “Shaqa’iq An-Nu’man,” which can be translated literally as “the wounds/pieces of Nu’man.” It is widely believed that the origins of this name date to ancient times. Tammuz, the Summerian god of food and plants, was called Nea’man in Phoenician. In Greek mythology, Tammuz most likely became Adonis, the god who died of wounds inflicted while hunting. He was said to be transformed into a blood-stained flower that grew where he fell. The Phoenician “Nea’man” is most likely the origin of the Arabic “An-Nu’man” which eventually became Anemone in the Greek translation.

Alternatively, the name might have also come from the last Lakhmid king of Al-Hirah (582-c.609 AD), An-Nu’man III Bin Al-Munthir. During his reign, he was known to have officially protected the Anemone coronaria flower. Ancient folklore holds that after the death of the king, the flower sprung up over An-Nu’man’s grave — an interesting myth that mirrors that of Adonis.

Windflower Significance Today

The Hebrew name for the anemone poppy is “kalanit metzuya.” The literal translation is “common bride,” a reference to the delicate and precious beauty of the flower, not unlike a bride walking down the aisle. So beloved are Anemone coronaria blooms in Israel that they were elected the national flower in 2013. They are a protected species in the country, and each year during bloom season, from mid-January through the final week of February, a festival in the southern region of Negev celebrates the widely admired plant. The festival, called Darom Adom, includes bike tours, marches, and races through the fields of the region painted red with blossoms. It is a wonderful time to experience the anemone poppy in its native habitat and get a taste of the culture where it hails from.

Popular A. coronaria Varieties

While the native species of the anemone poppy are red, there are other varieties as well:

Can I Grow Anemone coronaria Successfully?

Most gardeners find anemones are a challenge to cultivate from seed but are shockingly easy to grow from bulbs. They are rabbit- and deer-resistant (because all parts of the plant are toxic when ingested), so they need no protection from hungry beasts. The claw-like bulbs of the anemone poppy are called corms, and perform best when fall-planted in for warmer climates and spring-planted where it is colder.

Find a sunny spot with excellent drainage and soak the corms for several hours before planting. They will perform best in clayey soils if you add organic material such as compost and raise the level several inches to improve drainage. Although anemones are generally drought-tolerant, they will benefit from a watering schedule. Plant corms 5 inches deep and spaced at least 3 to 6 inches apart. Anemone poppies will add beautiful color and interest to borders, flower beds, rock gardens, and cottage gardens.

To propagate anemone poppies, wait until the summer when they have died back and become completely dormant. Using a forked implement, lift tubers carefully to avoid damaging them. Next, divide the tubers into individual corms and either replant them immediately or store them somewhere dark, cool, and dry to replant later in the autumn or spring.

Size: 10 in– 2 ft (25-60 cm) tall

Hardiness: USDA Hardiness Zones 7–10

Light Duration : Full sun

Soil: Well-drained

Blooming Time: Spring

Weigela

In late spring, cascades of flowers erupting from Weigela florida brightens up gardens. The dense, rounded shrub is a landscape favorite, featuring profuse clusters of trumpet-shaped flowers in various shades of pink that arch toward the ground on long stems. In early spring, the foliage emerges first, offering an early pop of color before bursting into bloom in the weeks before summer and continuing through the summer season.

An ornamental shrub, weigela is native to North China, Korea, and Japan but was imported to Europe in the 1800s. The pink blooms of weigela have historically been associated with grace and faithfulness. Today, this hardy member of the Caprifoliaceae (honeysuckle) family is indispensable as a landscape plant, often used in borders and massings.

There are more than three dozen species of Weigela florida, in an array of different sizes, a wide range of foliage colors, and featuring funnel-shaped flowers in a handful of hues. Because weigela foliage ranges from striking variegation to deep purple, it can be used to add visual interest in the garden beyond bloom season.

Uses for Weigela

Weigela is a strictly ornamental plant, with no properties that make it suitable for food or medicinal purposes. Nevertheless, it is a versatile garden staple, able to be used in foundation plantings, borders, and hedges. The variety in sizes and foliage mean that there are varieties well-suited to large public spaces as well as small residential gardens.

Although it doesn’t offer humans any nutrition, weigela is a valuable plant for pollinators. Its long bloom season and prolific blossoms attract butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds to gardens for months on end — delighting wildlife enthusiasts.

Places to See Collections of Weigela

Lovers of weigela who wish to see the full glory of this shrub in person can visit two noteworthy European collections. In England, Sheffield Botanical Gardens holds the British Weigela national collection — with 145 cultivars derived from 10 species. Founded in 1997, the German Weigela national collection, Sichtungsgarten Weigela, is located in Buckow, Maerkische-Schweiz. This collection was curated from across Europe and contains around 150 cultivars representing every weigela species.

Popular Weigela florida Varieties

The native bleeding heart species are pink, but several wonderful cultivars in different colors exist:

Can I Grow Weigela Successfully?

Weigela is beloved by gardeners for how easy it is to cultivate and care for. This is an unfussy shrub that can thrive in full sun or part shade and is able to tolerate many different soil types, as long as the drainage is adequate.

New weigela plantings will need regular deep watering until they are established. During long hot spells it may be necessary to water these shrubs occasionally, but otherwise they typically thrive with little attention. Mature weigelas can grow leggy and weedy looking if not periodically pruned.

However, blooms only happen on old wood, so it is best to perform any pruning in late summer, just after the last flowers have faded. Mature plants may benefit from the removal of older, inner branches in late winter to improve the blooms in the following year.

One important note is that it is not actually necessary to prune weigela shrubs, as their natural shape is fountain-like and mounding. The only reason to prune is for shaping, to remove dead wood, or to reinvigorate the shrub to optimize flowering.

Size: 4–6 ft (120–180 cm) tall 4–6 ft (120–180 cm) spread

Hardiness: USDA Hardiness Zones 5–9

Light Duration : Full sun, part shade

Soil: Moist, well-drained

Blooming Time: Late spring to early summer

Persian Buttercup

Persian Buttercup

With paper-thin petals layered like a French pastry, the vibrant colors of Ranunculus asiaticus bring a sweet flush of elegance to the garden in early spring. The cool-season perennial comes in a dizzying array of cheerful hues, from bisque white to velvety dark red.

The Ranunculus genus includes more than 400 flowering plants, but the Persian buttercup is the species that has been the most extensively cultivated for use in ornamental gardens and by florists. It’s no wonder why: Despite a delicate appearance, the rose-like flowers bloom for up to seven weeks a year, and the cut stems can last more than a week in bouquets.

Ranunculus Trivia

Typically found in wetlands or near bodies of water, the name ranunculus means “little frog” from the Latin words for frog, “rana,” and little, “unculus.” A native of Mediterranean regions of Southwest Asia, Europe, and northeastern Africa, the Persian buttercup was first introduced to Europe in the 16th century and is sometimes referred to as a turban buttercup.

Some flowers have many different meanings, but the ranunculus has only one: charm and attractiveness. In Victorian flower language, to give someone a ranunculus was to tell them that you found them physically attractive and had fallen for their charms.

Unlike many flowers favored by florists, the ranunculus is not strongly scented, making it a favorite in arrangements for folks with sensitive noses who dislike overwhelming floral fragrances.

Uses for Ranunculus

Persian buttercups are one of the most popular of all cut flowers in the world, but they were once prized for more than their beauty. Native Americans used the plant parts in poultices that were supposed to remove warts and treat muscle aches. In Europe, it is still used in some homeopathic applications, despite a lack of scientific evidence supporting its use to treat ailments.

A note of caution: Ranunculus species are all toxic to humans and animals. Consuming any part of the plant can cause abdominal pain and sickness. Even coming into contact with broken stems and leaves can result in rashes or blisters. So, it is best to wear gloves when cutting stems and to make sure children and pets keep their distance.

Popular Ranunculus Varieties
Can I Grow Persian Buttercups Successfully?

Persian buttercups are fairly easy to grow, if you have the right conditions. These beauties thrive in places with mild winters and long, cool springs. However, they can still be grown as annuals in less ideal climates. Choose a sunny planting location with rich, well-drained soil.

Ranunculus can be cultivated from seed, but are more commonly grown from something known as a corm, which looks like a claw. Soak the corms for a few hours to hydrate them before planting. Good drainage is a must, so if your soil is heavy clay, you’ll want to amend and loosen the soil or plant in a container. Place the corms two inches deep and six inches apart with the claw side down. Water well when planting and then let them be. You should have growth in 90 days.

For an early spring bloom season lasting six to seven weeks, plant ranunculus corms in the fall. Planting in late winter will produce four to six weeks of flowers beginning in mid-spring. Applications of water-soluble fertilizer will promote robust growth. For long-lasting cut flowers, cut the stems when the flowers are still in bud but beginning to show color.

Size: 10”-24” (25-60 cm) tall

Hardiness: USDA Hardiness Zones 3-11(but must be overwintered indoors in zones 3-7)

Light Duration: Full sun

Soil: Moist, well-drained clay, loam, or sand

Blooming Time: Spring to Summer

Black Locust

From May to June, the distinctive Robinia pseudoacacia is easily identified by the fragrant, long clusters of creamy white flowers that dangle from its angular branches. A member of the pea family, black locust tree flowers are considered botanically “perfect,” meaning each blossom contains both stamens and carpels — male and female reproductive parts.

Native to North America, the black locust tree is now found throughout Europe and parts of Asia, having been imported for its high-value, rot-resistant wood. The profuse, creamy-white bloom clusters range from 6 to 10 inches long, with some cultivars featuring lavender or purple blossoms. Some see the tree a symbol of strength, and the flower is associated with elegance.

Black Locust Trees in History

The species name Robinia honors Jean Robin, the royal French gardener who first introduced the black locust to France in 1601. With their sharp thorns and feathery leaves, the trees resemble African acacias, despite being unrelated — hence the name “pseudoacacia” or false acacia. Today, it is one of the most widely cultivated hardwood trees in the world.

Historians speculate that the black locust may have helped America win independence in the War of 1812. British ships were constructed with oak, including the pegs joining timbers together. The American fleet used Robinia pegs, which were better able to withstand assaults from cannonballs. So, the theory goes, the robustness of the American fleet led to victory, and American independence.

Uses for Robinia Pseudoacacia

Black locust timber has a reputation for toughness and durability, and is said to be able to resist rot for up to 100 years. The density, strength, and rot resistance make this wood extremely useful, and can be found in many outdoor uses including playground structures, railroad ties, tool handles, and fence posts.

Despite being known as an invasive species in the landscape, black locust is an ideal species for use in land restoration. Like all legumes, its roots fix nitrogen in depleted soils and can be used to regenerate depleted or damaged soils. Because it is extremely hardy and requires minimal maintenance, the black locust is often seen in roadside planting as well as in reclamation projects.

But the black locust tree has value beyond its wood: The flowers are prized for their culinary uses. Traditionally battered and fried as fritters, the blossoms can also be eaten raw as a garnish or used as a lovely addition to salads. Some creative brewers even use them to make mead. However, take note: Every other part of the black locust is toxic, from the bean pods to the leaves.

Beekeepers around the world cultivate Robinia pseudoacacia for the pale, fragrant honey that bees produce during its flowering season. In France, Hungary, and Italy, it is known and labeled as “Acacia honey” or “Robinia honey.” Aside from commercial honey production, the flowers also provide a valuable source of food for wild bee populations.

Popular Robinia Cultivars

While the most common Robinia variety is the thorny, tall version with white blossoms, there are other cultivars that are sometimes used for ornamental purposes.

Can I Grow Robinia Pseudoacacia Successfully?

Black locust trees are extremely easy to cultivate. The tree can be propagated through cuttings, suckers, root cuttings, or division. It can also be grown from seed, but the hard seed casing may need to be scarified before planting. The only recommended maintenance Robinia needs is the removal of aggressive suckers growing from around the base. If these are not kept under control, new saplings can develop into a dense, weedy copse of scraggly growth at ground level.

Size: 30’–80’ tall, up to 30’ wide

Hardiness: USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8

Light Duration: Full sun

Soil: Loose, well-drained soil, but is highly adaptable

Blooming Time: Mid May to early June

7 Species of Daisies for Your Flower Garden

7 Species of Daisies for Your Flower Garden

Few flowering plants are as popular and recognizable as daisies. These plants also come in several different interesting varieties, seven of which we’ll cover in this article. Read on to find your favorite.

Barberton daisy

The Barberton daisy produces bright, attractive flowers. It is native to Southeastern Africa and has become increasingly popular as a house plant far outside its home range. The South African province of Mpumalanga includes the Barberton daisy on its flag and coat of arms.

Oxeye daisy

Leucanthemum vulgare is a very adaptable perennial herb native to Eurasia, commonly known as Oxeye daisy. It is widely cultivated as an ornamental plant. Oxeye daisy is a common weed in lawns and crop plants. It is also considered an invasive species in some areas in the world.

Common daisy

The Common daisy produces iconic flowers that are seen in European and American folklore dating back centuries. It is often a representation of childlike innocence. The plant is edible and can be used in small quantities in salads, sandwiches, soups, or tea. However, it can also become toxic and cause digestive problems if eaten in quantity.

Marguerite daisy

Marguerite daisy (Argyranthemum frutescens) is a perennial flowering shrub that attracts butterflies and bees. This daisy is a prolific bloomer and will bloom again. It grows best in full sunlight to partial shade and is heat tolerant.

Blue daisy

Blue daisy (Felicia amelloides) is an evergreen perennial that is native to the coasts of South Africa. In the 19th century it was introduced to Europe as an ornamental plant and is still commonly cultivated for its vivid flowers. It does well in moist, well-drained soils and in full sun. It dislikes humid conditions.

Pyrethrum

Pyrethrum (Tanacetum coccineum) is a flowering plant native to southwestern Asia. Pyrethrum is also commonly referred to as the painted daisy. This species attracts butterflies and tolerates the presence of deer.

Swan river daisy

Brachyscome iberidifolia is also known as its graceful common name, Swan river daisy. It is native to Western Australia, and the purple daisies bloom between August and May. It is mostly used as a garden plant because of its attractive flowers.

10 Vegetables That Will Self-Sow

10 Vegetables That Will Self-Sow

Self-sowing vegetables are some of the most convenient plants that you can grow in your garden if you want to enjoy an ongoing harvest. This article will introduce you to ten of the best vegetable plants in this category. 

Corn salad

Corn salad (Valerianella locusta) is a small annual that grows to 6 to 12 inches in height. It grows on bare ground with rocky soils or coastal dunes, producing small clusters of white flowers that bloom from April to June. Sow in August to produce deliciously-edible salad greens throughout winter.

Radish

Radish (Raphanus sativus) is a plant species that represents a food staple in many cultures around the world. The Radish has a wide range of variations, including variants that grow in the spring, summer and winter. The root is generally eaten raw and can be used in salads or as a garnish.

Coriander

Coriander is well-known in many countries and is most commonly used for cooking. The dried seeds of the Coriander plant are ground and used to season dishes, while the leaves and stems can be eaten cooked or raw. In the United States, the leaves and stems of this plant are called cilantro.

Bok choy

Bok choy is a type of Chinese cabbage. Chinensis varieties do not form heads and have green leaf blades with lighter bulbous bottoms instead, forming a cluster reminiscent of mustard greens. Chinensis varieties are popular in southern China and Southeast Asia. Being winter-hardy, they are increasingly grown in Northern Europe.

Field mustard

Field mustard (Brassica rapa) is a plant that is widely cultivated and produces oilseed. Canola oil is made from the Field mustard oilseed. Field mustard attracts white butterflies who gain nutrients from its flowers.

Sweet fennel

Sweet fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) is a flowering perennial plant related to carrots. It is native to the Mediterranean region, but is used throughout the world as a flavoring herb. Sweet fennel has a sweet aromatic flavor similar to anise, and is an important ingredient in absinthe. In the wild, it often becomes a noxious weed.

Garden lettuce

Garden lettuce (Lactuca sativa) is a hardy annual plant commonly cultivated as a leafy vegetable. The earliest evidence of its cultivation goes all the way back to Ancient Egypt. Its leaves are often used for making salads and they are an excellent source of vitamins K and A.

Common borage

Common borage is often used to make soup, sauces, pasta filling, and a flavoring for pickles in Germany, Spain, Greece, and Italy. It is also occasionally used as a drink garnish and is an ingredient in some gins. Common borage flowers can also be made into blue or pink dyes.

Wild carrot

The Wild carrot is a common flowering plant with light, delicate flowers. Originally native to Europe and Asia, it has also spread to North America and Australia. Studies of historical paintings suggest that the Wild carrot was cultivated in Turkey, Spain, and North Africa for centuries.

Spinach

Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) is an edible plant species that is often considered a ‘superfood’ due to its high content of vitamins, folate, fiber, iron, magnesium, and other nutrients. Spinach is grown in gardens around the world and provides an important food source.

18 Garden Plants That Tolerate Salt

18 Garden Plants That Tolerate Salt

Do you live in an area that has high levels of salt in the soil or air, such as by the coast? It’s no good choosing plants that struggle to grow in salty conditions; instead, choose from this diverse selection of salt-tolerant species to help you grow a healthy and beautiful garden.

Moss rose

Moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora) is an ornamental flowering succulent native to South America. It is usually cultivated in annual flowerbeds and as a container plant. Different cultivars have been selected for achieving variation in color, shape and petal number of the flowers.

Virginia creeper

The Virginia creeper is a North American vine from the grape family that has it all – vigorous growth, fragrant flowers, decorative blue-colored berries, and leaves that turn crimson in the fall. Using small forked tendrils with adhesive pads, the Virginia creeper will cling strongly to almost all surfaces. It can grow over entire walls, providing shelter and food for wildlife.

English ivy

English ivy is the most common climber of European forests. It is a perennial woody vine with evergreen, dark, shiny lobed leaves. It utilizes aerial rootlets to attach to the tree bark with exceptional strength, helping the ivy creep more than 15 m up a tree. English ivy also grows as a forest groundcover and is invasive outside of its native range.

Orange daylily

The Orange daylily is a perennial plant known for its captivating lily-like blooms. Its natural habitats are meadows and forests, but it is also a common garden plant in temperate regions around the world. Each individual flower lasts only a day, but the plant will bloom new ones for weeks. Orange daylily’s young buds and flowers are edible either raw or cooked. As a bonus to vegetarians, the flowers contain more fats than most vegetables.

Canary island date palm

This slow-growing tree takes decades to reach its maximum height of 40-50 feet. It produces large, orange fruit that, while edible, look better than they taste. Canary island date palms have been imported to the warmer regions of the US, but require careful fertilization to grow outside their native Canary Islands.

Prickly pear

Prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica) is a flowering cactus native to Mexico. Prickly pear is a widely domesticated species grown for agricultural purposes in arid climates throughout the world. This species is edible and planted widely as a fruit and vegetable crop. Prickly pear is commercially valued as food, animal fodder, an adobe ingredient, and is also planted to control soil erosion.

Adam's needle

Adam’s needle (Yucca filamentosa) is a compact evergreen shrub highly appreciated by horticulturalists and landscapers worldwide. Yucca filamentosa takes the spotlight in almost every garden due to its stunning looks. It is easily recognized by its large clusters of gentle white flowers, which are in sharp contrast to the green rosettes of sword-shaped leaves.

Common coleus

Common coleus is probably best known for its beautiful multicolored foliage while it also has delicate flowers. The patterned leaves of its many variants can show off nearly every color of the rainbow. Common coleus is mildly toxic if consumed, but was once used in rituals by members of the Mexican Mazatec tribe.

Common lantana

The Common lantana is a flowering plant that grows best in tropical environments. It spread outside the Americas when the Dutch brought it to Europe. The plant is generally regarded as an unwanted weed that reduces biodiversity. Additionally, it is toxic to livestock and harms the output of farmland.

Eastern red cedar

Eastern red cedar is a coniferous evergreen tree that is native to North America. The fruit of this tree, juniper berries, is an important food source for birds in the winter. The wood of the Eastern red cedar is used in fencing as it is resistant to rot, and it is also used to line closets and chests since it also resists moths.

Pin oak

Quercus palustris, colloquially known as Pin oak, is a deciduous tree native to North America. Due to its favorable growing qualities and beautiful bronze coloration in autumn, Pin oak is one of the most common oak species used in landscaping.

Common winterberry

Common winterberry (Ilex verticillata) is a berry species commonly grown in eastern gardens within the United States. Common winterberry is valued for its ability to grow in temperate climates and the colors it provides as an ornamental plant. The Common winterberry is also called Michigan holly.

Honey locust

Gleditsia triacanthos is a deciduous tree that is native to the Central part of Noth America. The trunk of the Honey locust is covered in thorns that are soft and green when young, but age to be hard and brittle. These thorns are relatively large and can reach up to 8 inches in length.

Ivy geranium

Ivy geranium (Pelargonium peltatum) is a flowering perennial plant that grows in rocky, well-drained soils. It was first brought to Europe by the Dutch. Blue dye can be made from its flower petals. The genus name “Pelargonium” means “stork” and was so given because the shape of Ivy geranium’s fruits resemble that of a stork’s beak.

Creeping juniper

Creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) is a juniper shrub native to North America, particularly Canada. Creeping juniper is mainly grown as an ornamental plant for ground cover in gardens. There are over 100 cultivars of Creeping juniper.

White oak

Quercus alba is a long-lived oak with a broad canopy. The common name, White oak, refers to the color of its processed wood, which has a wide variety of uses – construction, for wine and whiskey barrels, making musical instruments and weapons in Japanese martial arts, etc. White oak is rarely cultivated as an ornamental due to its large size.

Creeping lilyturf

Creeping lilyturf (Liriope spicata) is an herbaceous flowering plant native to East Asia. It is commonly used in landscaping for ground cover. Blackish berries develop on this plant in the fall season.

Northern red oak

Arguably the most popular hardwood in the US, lumber from Northern red oak is used for cabinets, flooring, veneers, trim, and more. When growing, the tree is large and reaches between 50 to 75 ft tall. The foliage on this tree is stunning, with dark green leaves in summer giving away to brilliant red in the fall.