_COMMON_NAME_ is most suitable for growing in full shade. It needs only a short period of sunlight for healthy growth. Too much sun may cause burns. Full shade refers to direct sunlight for less than 3 hours per day, usually by a north-facing window (northern hemisphere), or a position in the yard under a tree where sunlight is not blocked all day.
_COMMON_NAME_ is most suitable for growing in partial sun. Provided with enough sunlight, your _COMMON_NAME_ will be healthier and more vivid. However, too much sun exposure may cause burns. Partial sun refers to 3-6 hours of direct sunlight per day, usually by an east or west-facing window, or around a building or fence.
_COMMON_NAME_ is most suitable for growing in partial sun. Provided with enough sunlight, your _COMMON_NAME_ will be healthier and more vivid. However, too much sun exposure may cause burns. Partial sun refers to 3-6 hours of direct sunlight per day, usually by an east or west-facing window, or around a building or fence.
How to Propagate Indoor Climbing Plants
Indoor climbing plants can be propagated by taking a stem cutting and allowing it to develop roots in a container of water. After sufficient roots have emerged, the cutting can be moved to soil.
One great way to expand a houseplant collection or share plants with friends (without spending money) is to propagate your plants from cuttings. Propagation from cuttings is a form of asexual reproduction, meaning you only need one plant to do it, and the new plant will be genetically identical to the original plant.
Climbing plant species are particularly easy to propagate, and many of the most popular houseplants fall into this category. Climbing and vining plant species that are commonly sold as houseplants include all Philodendron species, Pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Monstera species, and Swedish Ivy (Plectranthus verticillatus). The propagation method for each of these types of houseplant will be the same.
Climbing plants can be propagated simply and quickly from cuttings. There are a few important things to know before propagating, but the process is almost foolproof if you follow the right steps.
The process starts with taking stem cuttings that include at least one node, and putting them in water, moss, or soil until they establish new roots. After the roots have grown several inches, the cutting can be moved to a more permanent container of soil and grown like a normal houseplant.
Climbing and vining plants generally spread by means of their adventitious roots, which are generated from non-root nodes along the stem of the plant. That means that these types of plants are able to produce roots and establish themselves at almost any point along the stem that can provide the plant with nutrients. This provides them an evolutionary advantage since they can spread in any direction to seek out the next location to establish a root system.
The presence of many nodes on a climbing plant is also what makes it so easy to propagate from a cutting. Nodes are the part of a plant where new growth can emerge. That growth could be new stems, leaves, flowers, or roots. So, in order to take a proper cutting, you first need to know how to identify nodes.
Each stem is made up of nodes and internodes. The internode is the space in between nodes. Once you know what to look for, it should be easy to distinguish them. First, knowing that new growth needs a node to generate, you can be sure that there is a node at the base of each leaf or petiole. In plants such as Monstera deliciosa that often grow aerial roots, each of those will be growing from a node.
You can also identify nodes even without the presence of new growth, though. In general, nodes will be thicker than internodes, and can have a knobby appearance in some species. There may be a ring of a different color than the rest of the stem, or a papery sheath around the node.
Once you have identified the nodes, taking the stem cutting is a simple process. Each cutting should include at least one node and one or more leaves, which will allow the cutting to continue taking in sunlight. Be sure to sterilize your cutting tool before taking your cutting, since dirty equipment can spread disease between plants. You can use 70% rubbing alcohol to disinfect your tools. Depending on how thick the stem is, you may prefer to use a sharp garden knife or a pair of scissors to take the cutting.
The cut should be made at least one inch below the lowest node that you want to remove. By cutting below the node, you can be sure that you include the whole node and will have the best chance of propagating the plant successfully. If there are leaves attached to the nodes that will produce roots on the cutting, remove those leaves.
After taking the stem cuttings, set them aside for a few minutes to let the cut dry out and callous over, until it is dry to the touch. While not strictly required, this simple step can help prevent the stem from rotting.
Stem cuttings can be rooted in water, or on a sphagnum moss or soil potting medium. Most people prefer to root climbing plants in water, since it is simple and clean, and allows the grower to monitor root development easily.
Almost any container that holds water can be used to propagate stem cuttings, but it should be tall enough to keep the cuttings upright and sturdy so it won’t be easily knocked over. The container should be cleaned thoroughly if it was used to hold something else previously. Glass jars or vases usually work well and look nice enough to be displayed on a shelf or windowsill. A container with a narrow neck can be used, but remember that it will need to be wide enough to pull the rooted stem out without damaging the roots.
Once the container is ready, place one or more cuttings inside and add room temperature water to a level where all nodes are below the water line. Leaves should not be submerged because they will rot in water. Place the container in a location that gets plenty of bright, indirect light. Change out the water every few days, or any time it looks cloudy. If any part of the stem gets soft and starts to rot, cut it off and change out the water immediately. It is important that the water stays clean and any unhealthy parts of the stem cuttings are removed.
For most plant species, roots will begin to emerge within a few weeks of being placed into water. This may take longer if the cuttings are in less-than-ideal conditions, such as a shady spot or in cool temperatures. On rare occasions, a cutting may fail to produce any roots at all, in which case the cutting can be thrown away and the process started again with a new cutting.
Once the roots are large enough, the cutting can be moved to soil. Prepare a planter with a free-draining potting medium and then create a hole in the soil that is large enough to accommodate all the roots. Then place the rooted cuttings into the hole and cover the roots with soil. Water thoroughly and put the plant in a bright, warm location.
Once the roots have established themselves in the potting soil, the plant will start to produce new growth. For most cuttings, this should occur within three to four weeks.
Can I Keep Plants in My Bedroom?
There’s an urban myth that keeping plants in your bedroom is harmful, but we’re here to debunk that inaccuracy. Plants have many benefits, making them a fantastic addition to your nighttime space.
Just like humans, plants give off carbon dioxide. During respiration, a process that is almost the opposite of photosynthesis, part of the very carbon dioxide they take in for photosynthesis is returned to the atmosphere. It was believed for quite some time that this could cause carbon dioxide poisoning.
Fortunately, this isn’t the case.
While most plants release carbon dioxide at night — because photosynthesis halts when there is no sunlight — the amount given off isn’t enough to be harmful. Some plants perform a particular type of photosynthesis called Crassulacean Acid Metabolism (CAM), where they exchange gases at night and photosynthesize during the day.
So let’s talk about why it’s good to have plants in your bedroom, when you should avoid them, and some of the best types for bedroom decor.
It’s known that being close to plants and taking care of them helps reduce stress and anxiety. This is an excellent reason for having them in a space where you want to feel peaceful and tranquil. They do have a couple of specific reasons for how they even help you sleep better.
The cells throughout our body require oxygen to create energy and keep us going. A boost in atmospheric oxygen levels gives extra energy to our mind and body, allowing us to perform at higher levels and feel better overall.
During the day, plants give off a considerable amount of oxygen while simultaneously reducing the carbon dioxide levels in the air. We know this switches at night — hence the urban legend about not keeping plants in the bedroom — but the additional oxygen carries over through the nighttime, helping our bodies. The particular plants that exchange gases at night further increase oxygen levels.
CAM plants:
Research has proven that scents can influence the mind and help ease stressful thoughts. They stimulate your olfactory senses when you smell certain fragrances, signaling the brain to relax.
Using scents in your bedroom to relax is great if you suffer from poor sleep or insomnia. They can help soothe your nerves and improve your sleep quality.
Plants with calming scents:
Plant leaves and stems also have the natural ability to absorb sounds and buffer background noises that keep us awake at night. Fleshy leaves and rough bark are particularly good at dampening noise because of their dynamic surface area.
Place plants close to the walls and windows to trap sounds that bounce off the walls or through the glass. Setting them in the center of the room isn’t as effective.
Sound-absorbing plants:
The quality of the air that we breathe has a significant impact on our overall health and how we feel on a day-to-day basis. Indoor air quality is considerably worse than the air outdoors, especially when it isn’t mixed with fresh air. Adding houseplants to your space can improve the air in your home significantly.
Research conducted by NASA has proven that plants play a pivotal role in improving air quality. They help reduce carbon dioxide levels and filter harmful chemicals out of the air. They can remove almost 90% of volatile organic compounds (VOCs), including formaldehyde, trichloroethylene, benzene, carbon monoxide, ammonia, and xylene.
Some of the best air-purifying plants:
There are a couple of instances when you’d want to avoid having plants in the bedroom.
If you were concerned about increased carbon dioxide levels in your bedroom from your plants, there’s no need to worry! The amount they release is small enough that it isn’t harmful, and the benefits of having them in your room far outweigh any concerns!
So go ahead and add your favorite plants to your nighttime space, and you may find yourself sleeping better than ever.
How to Prune Houseplants for Better Growth and Appearance
Most houseplants require regular pruning for optimal health. But do it wrong, and you might cause long-term problems. Here are five steps for correctly pruning houseplants.
Keeping houseplants looking their best is a constant battle. If you give them ideal growing conditions, they’re likely to grow big and healthy.
However, it doesn’t take long for many varieties to start to look unwieldy, and dead leaves and flowers may promote disease and attract problem insects. Regular pruning will keep them looking their best and encourage better growth in the long run.
Here’s what you need to know to get started.
For flowering species, it’s typically best to prune them as soon as they have finished blooming. This ensures you remove old growth without damaging future flower production.
Note: Most woody indoor plants will require year-round pruning to let you stay on top of dead branches.
While most houseplants will benefit from regular pruning, some varieties will struggle from any trimming and won’t grow back once their tops have been cut off. These include most varieties of pines, cacti, and orchids.
The situation is even worse for palms because they form what is known as a terminal dominant bud at the top of the plant. Trim it off, and the whole plant dies. The only pruning these varieties can handle is careful trimming to remove dead leaves.
Taking kitchen shears to your potted plants and cutting off everything that looks out of place won’t lead to the results you’re looking for. A better way to make your houseplants look their best is to prune them according to these steps.
Before you get to work with scissors, it’s critical to observe your plant and form a plan. Notice its overall shape — does it look too spindly or uneven on one side? Are there signs of diseased or dying foliage, and can you see if new buds are already forming?
Your goal is to get a sense of what you want the plant to look like afterward, so you aren’t going in blind. Taking time to note what needs to change on your plant ensures you’ll make the right cuts to make it look its best.
Likewise, research the plant variety beforehand to understand how it handles the trauma of pruning. Some, like snake plants, pothos, and spider plants, can handle lots of leaves being removed at once. Others, like ficus trees, go into shock if you remove too much at one time.
Remember: Less is more with pruning! You can always go back and cut off more, but you can’t restore plant material once you remove it.
Pruning houseplants goes best when you have the proper tools available. Make sure you have a sharp set of scissors or garden shears so you cause minimal trauma to the stems.
Consider cleaning your tools beforehand by soaking them in a solution of water with a teaspoon of bleach. This ensures you won’t spread pathogens or disease spores from one plant to another.
Note: It’s also smart to clean tools before moving from one plant to another.
Once you’re ready to prune, start by cutting off all the withered stems and leaves. You may be able to pull them off by hand, depending on how dry they are. Aim to remove them at a 45-degree angle to reduce damage to the plant tissue left behind.
Look for signs of disease and insect infestation at this time. Any infected stems and leaves should be treated or removed.
Next, go through the plant and remove all dead and wilting flowers. This process, known as deadheading, will encourage any species to produce new buds so you get continuous flowers all season.
You likely won’t harm the plant by pinching these spent blooms, but cutting them off with scissors is also fine. Aim to get as close to the main stem as possible, so you aren’t left with unsightly stems.
It’s now time to reshape the houseplant and remove leggy growth. This is an excellent time to remove leggy growth and reshape the plant to the size you prefer.
Start by pruning back half of the longest branch on the plant, angling the cut at 45 degrees. Trim off any side shoots that look out of place, taking care to cut to just above nodules on the stem. This is the place where leaves meet the stems and buds form. New growth will come from these spots, and removing them will make the plant look sparse.
Note: Never remove more than 10-20% of a plant’s foliage in one setting. Over-pruning will cause it stress and slow down the overall growth. If you need to remove large amounts of the houseplant, it’s best to wait several weeks between cutting sessions to give the plant a chance to recover.
There’s no need to toss pruned plant material after tending to your houseplants. If your space allows, you can save these cuttings from propagating them into new plants.
Propagation instructions will vary based on the plant type, so research the variety before starting to determine what steps to take. You may need to lightly bury the stems in soil or place them in water.
Caring for your houseplants through regular pruning will go a long way towards keeping them in optimal condition. Plan out your pruning strategy carefully, and you’ll be rewarded with healthy plants for the long run.
How to Mend Your Lawn by Sowing and Planting on the Bare Areas
Finding bare areas on your lawn may be concerning at first. But if you know how to fix the issue, you can restore your lawn quicker and more easily than you might expect. This article will show you how.
Bare areas in your lawn can be quite a frustrating sight. Fortunately, there’s more than one way to mend your lawn and return it to its best form. Here are two fantastic ways to remove bare areas from your lawn and help it look its best.
While bare lawn patches can appear for many different reasons, the remedies for this problem are a bit less numerous. In general, there are two go-to ways to mend a lawn with bare patches:
Both those methods can be incredibly effective for eliminating the bare patches on your lawn. Now, let’s consider the steps you need to take to implement each one.
Our first option for mending your lawn’s bare patches is to sow grass seed in the affected areas. However, fixing your lawn using seeds can involve more work than it first appears. The following sections will walk you through the most important steps in the process.
Remove Existing Dead Grass
Sowing new seeds to mend bare patches begins with removing any dead or dried-out vegetation in the area. Use a rake to tease out any existing grass blades or other plant debris. Your goal at this stage is to create an exposed area of soil into which you can sprinkle your seeds.
Improve the Soil
As is the case with nearly all plants, your grass will benefit from soil improvements. Such improvements could include loosening the soil to give the roots a better chance of spreading. You can also consider adding organic materials at this point to improve the nutrient quality of the soil and give your grass seed plenty of fuel, which it can use to grow and fill the bare area.
Sow Your Grass Seed
Once you have an exposed patch of loose and healthy soil, sprinkle your grass seed into the area. Be sure to spread the seed evenly rather than allowing it to pile up in one part of the bare patch. Spreading your seed as evenly as possible, without overcrowding one particular area, will lead to even and consistent future grass growth.
Give Your Sown Seed Water
After sowing your seeds, you’ll need to give them plenty of water both right away and for the days to follow. Continue watering about once or twice per day for about one to two weeks, or until your grass looks healthy and ready to mow. At that point, you can water your new grass patch as often as you do for the rest of your lawn.
Now that you know one of the most reliable ways to mend bare lawn patches, it’s time to learn the second popular approach. If you choose to repair your lawn with sod, follow these simple steps.
Cut a Piece of Sod to Cover the Area
Start by cutting a piece of sod that can cover the entirety of your bare area. Sod pieces come in regular rectangular shapes, while bare patches tend to be quite irregular. As such, you should cut your sod so that it is slightly larger than the bare area to ensure that it covers the area entirely.
Remove Existing Grass
After cutting your sod, cut your bare lawn area to match the shape of your sod piece. In most cases, you’ll need to remove both the dead grass and some otherwise healthy grass to ensure your sod will fit neatly in the area. Your result should be a neat rectangular patch of exposed soil that has a nearly identical shape and size to the sod you cut in the last step.
Improve the Soil
Once you remove the existing grass, you can remove some soil as well. Taking away some soil will help your new sod piece be level with the rest of your lawn. This stage is also an opportunity to loosen the soil and add any amendments like compost that will encourage healthy grass growth.
Lay the Sod on Your Bare Patch and Water
The final step is to lay your sod piece into your bare lawn area. If you made your cuts correctly, this should be quite easy to do. When your sod is in place, you should walk on it to press it into the ground. As was the case when sowing grass seed, you’ll need to water your new sod patch at least once a day for at least a week.
Mending bare lawn patches takes patience and some effort on your part. But if you use one of the two reliable methods described above, you can expect your lawn to be lush and free of unsightly bare patches once again.
Don’t Let Cutworms Take Over Your Garden!
Cutworms may be small, but they can cause a lot of damage. Follow these tips to control an outbreak and keep your seedlings safe from harm.
All gardeners agree: There’s nothing worse than watching seemingly healthy seedlings get decimated out of nowhere. If you suddenly find your garden plants getting snipped off at the base, you may be dealing with a cutworm infestation.
These tiny insects can cause significant damage, but understanding the problem means that you can take steps to get your growing space back under control. Cutworms are found on every continent except Antarctica. They are an extremely prevalent garden pest that can be tricky to control. Here’s how to identify cutworms and keep your garden safe from attack.
There are more than 200 types of insects identified as “cutworms” in the United States. Most are the larvae of night-flying moths in the Noctuidae family. The adult moths lay eggs in grass and weeds, where caterpillars hatch and migrate into the soil.
These small insects curl their bodies around stems to feed on them, slowly cutting off the stem right at the soil surface. They typically live along the soil line and feast on plant stems. Over time, they will completely gnaw off the stem.
Young plants are the most vulnerable because they have the thinnest stems. That’s partly why cutworms tend to cause the most damage in the spring.
Cutworm larvae attack a variety of plants, including kale, cabbage, broccoli, beets, and cauliflower. In the right conditions, they will also go after fruits like strawberries, melons, and tomatoes, and they can attack lawns.
Identifying cutworms can be a challenge since each variety looks somewhat different. Color options range from black to brown, tan, gray, and even pink or green. Many are spotted or striped. Most varieties are smaller than two inches long, and they tend to curl up in a C shape if you poke or pick them up.
You’ll rarely see cutworms on the plants themselves since they hide in the soil during the daytime. Nighttime is when they come out to feed. Cutworms can easily destroy 75% or more of a crop when left untreated.
Identifying whether cutworms are the culprits for your garden’s damage can be a challenge, since the destruction usually happens at night.
One way to tell whether you have cutworms is if an entire row or section of plants are lopped off at the base rather than a few isolated plants. Some will cause damage to foliage, buds, and shoots, and even tunnel into fruit.
When cutworms attack turf grass, they will leave dead brown circles that are easier to identify. One sign of cutworms is when more birds than usual are eating bugs off your lawn.
You may have just one variety of cutworm in your garden, or be dealing with several at once. Regardless, all cutworm infestations require the same treatment.
Lose your plants to cutworms once, and you’ll be motivated to eradicate the problem for good. There are many strategies for getting an outbreak under control. Here’s what you can try.
1. Handpick worms. Wait until dusk and pull worms off plants by hand. This works best after a rainstorm or thorough watering.
2. Time your watering. Cutworms don’t like to travel in dry soil, so water in the morning and lightly disturb the soil so the top dries out while moisture gets trapped beneath it. This keeps the worms underground and away from stems.
3. Boost beneficial nematodes. These soil dwellers attack and destroy cutworms. You can buy them live to introduce into your garden.
4. Spread diatomaceous earth. Pour a line of diatomaceous earth around plants to create a deadly barrier that cutworms can’t cross.
5. Try pesticides. Some gardeners have luck controlling cutworms by spraying pesticides like Bt at weekly intervals while their seedlings emerge. Regular application is necessary because the spray will wash off quickly. However, since cutworms spend most of their time underground, pesticides are often unsuccessful.
6. Remove Mulch. Don’t use mulch where you have infestations to reduce habitat space for the worms.
7. Make your plants less appetizing. A regular wash of dish soap on your seedlings is a nontoxic strategy to deter cutworms from attacking plants.
8. Apply bacteria. Bacterial treatments like Bacillus thuringiensis can kill off young larvae before they cause damage.
The best way to keep your plants safe from cutworms is to avoid introducing them in the first place. Here are strategies for preventing this pest population from getting established:
By following these prevention tips, you can help keep cutworm populations under control and lessen the risk of these tiny caterpillars taking over your garden. It takes diligence and lots of observation to keep these insects in check, but the results for your garden are well worth the effort.