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Step by Step Instructions for Planting

Now that you’ve purchased your plants, it’s time for the fun part, planting! When planting shrubs, it may be easier if you have someone else who can help you position the plant in the hole and hold it in place as you start backfilling.

Digging the Planting Hole, Including the Correct Size

Using a sturdy long-handled shovel with a pointed blade, dig a hole slightly bigger than your shrub’s root system. The hold should be two to three times the width of the roots and slightly deeper, no matter if you are planting a bare-root specimen or container-grown plant.

As you dig the hole, pile the soil around the perimeter in various areas to make backfilling easier.

After you get the correct size hole dug, slash the sides with your shovel or a garden spade to penetrate the soil around the edges. Loosening up the sidewalls helps the roots grow outward into the surrounding soil.

Prepping the Soil to Backfill (Does It Need Fertilizer)

If you didn’t amend the area you’re planting in, you should at least mix some organic matter and fertilizer into the soil before backfilling the hole.

Follow the label directions on an all-purpose fertilizer for dosing and add up to about one-third compost to the soil, mixing it well.

Getting Your Shrub Ready

First, remove any labels or tags wrapped around the trunk or branches to prevent girdling as the shrub grows.

Carefully remove container-grown shrubs from their pot. Lay the container on the ground, on its side, and gently grab onto the base of the plant close to the soil. Wiggle the plant back and forth to free it from the container.

Pull the plastic off the roots of bare-root shrubs and then put the plant in a bucket of water. Set the bucket in the shade and let the shrub’s roots hydrate for a couple of hours.

Correct Planting Depth

It’s time to set your shrub in the hotel at the correct planting depth. You never want to bury it deeper than it was in the container, so you may need to build up a slight mound of soil at the bottom of the hole to get it high enough.

Position the shrub, so the potting soil of container-grown plants is at ground level or slightly higher. Look for where the branches or multiple stems flare out from the single main stem with bare-root shrubs. You want this “flare” just above the soil surface.

After getting your shrub positioned, gently fan out the roots in the bottom of the hole.

Backfilling the Hole

Using your shovel, start backfilling the holes and tamp the soil down with your foot as you go to remove the air pockets. Slightly mound the soil at the base of the shrub, so water doesn’t collect in a low spot and cause root rot. Newly planted shrubs tend to settle slightly over time.

Deciding the Best Time to Plant: Fall vs. Spring, or Anytime

There is plenty of conflicting information about the best time to plant new shrubs in your landscape. Some recommendations claim spring is the best time for planting, while other sources say the best time of year to plant new shrubs is in the fall. There are advantages and drawbacks to planting in each season.

Truthfully, the correct season depends on what you’re planting. This makes it critical to have a plan before planting to ensure a healthy future for your shrub.

Why is Timing Important?

The ultimate goal with timing is to give your plant the best chance to establish itself and the root system before the following cool-weather season sets in. For the most part, this is in the fall. Planting later in the season gives shrubs some time to establish themselves before winter, and they are ready to produce new growth and flowers the following spring.

However, there is an important exception to this.

Benefits of Fall Planting

First off, planting in the fall is a good time for you. The upkeep of your yard through the spring and summer is winding down, so you have fewer tasks needing your attention. But your shrubs see the most significant advantages.

The combination of warm soil temperatures and cooler air temps stimulates root growth over shoot growth. Roots continue developing until the soil drops below 40°F.
Fall temperatures are typically cooler, and plants lose less water through their leaves via transpiration than in hotter summer weather. Since they are losing less water, they are less stressed, and more energy is directed to growing roots.
Autumn climates tend to have more precipitation, helping shrubs establish themselves.

Risks of Planting in the Fall

Unfortunately, planting in the fall isn’t risk-free, and the chance of problems or plant failure increases as you wait to plant later in the season. The most significant risks with fall planting are unexpected freezes or early snowfall.

Aim to plant when you still have six weeks before freezing temperatures arrive in your region. For many people, this is early to mid-October.

Choosing Between Native and Non-native Species

When you are deciding which type of shrubs to plant, one of the plant characteristics to think about is whether you want native or non-native species in your yard.

What are Native Species?

Native plants are species that are original to an area. This area can be your immediate region or have a broader scope like a state, country, or even a continent. The USDA-Natural Resources Conservation Service (USDA-NRCS) considers native plant species indigenous to a region if they were there at the time of European settlement.

Benefits and Disadvantages of Native Shrubs

Since native shrubs are original to your area, they are adapted to your local climate which gives them some big advantages over growing non-native species. On the other hand though, they have distinct disadvantages too.

Native Shrub Advantages

More drought resistant so they consume less water.
Hardier than developed or introduced species.
Increased resistance to insects, other pests, and diseases.
As native plant habitat, they encourage wildlife populations in open areas, increasing animal biodiversity.
Increased leaf density shades out weeds beneath the leaf canopy.
Plants are better equipped to sequesters carbon dioxide in the atmosphere from global warming.

Native Shrub Disadvantages

Fewer options to choose from than non-native shrubs.
Plants may be harder to find and more expensive.
Plants may be more invasive, so you must be careful to keep them from taking over your landscape.
May not look as neat and tidy as non-natives, they may look more messy and wild.

Benefits and Disadvantages of Non-native Shrubs

Non-native shrubs have been introduced over time to an area, typically brought in from other locations because of desirable physical characteristics.

Non-native Shrub Advantages

Non-native Shrub Disadvantages

How to Find the Best Shrubs to Buy

Making sure you buy high-quality, healthy shrubs is the first step to growing them successfully. But choosing the best ones to buy can be daunting when you’re standing among dozens of the same plant at the store or nursery.

Choosing Between Bare-root and Container-grown Specimen Shrubs

The first decision to make is whether you buy bare-root or container-grown specimens.

There are pros and cons to both options. Unfortunately, some shrubs—including evergreens—are only available in pots, so you don’t even have the option of buying bare-root specimens.

Bare root shrubs can be cheaper than container-grown, which is helpful if you purchase numerous plants.
Larger shrubs are typically only available in containers. Bare root specimens tend to be smaller in size.
Container-grown shrubs are available year-round. Bare root shrubs are only available when deciduous plants are dormant between November and March.

Physical Characteristics to Look for

When buying shrubs, you want to look for signs of good health, so it comes through planting with minimal problems and grows to be a mature, healthy plant.

Make sure to check for the following.

Strong new growth from the branch tips (if the plant isn’t dormant).
Flower buds should be plump and healthy, not brown or rotted.
Leaves should be pliable yet firm.
Leaf size should be uniform and comparable to neighboring plants.
Branches should be well spaced and evenly distributed around the plant.
Branches should be flexible, not brittle.
If plants are dormant, use your fingernail to scrape at the bark, looking for green tissue underneath.
Grab the base of the plant and try to move it back and forth in the soil. You want it to be well-rooted and holding firm.
Roots are firm and lighter in color (white or tan).

Physical Characteristics to Avoid

If shrubs show any of these signs, do not buy them.

Wilted or off-color foliage.
Visible insect pests, especially aphids, spider mites, scale, etc.
Symptoms of disease.
Shrubs that look too big for their container because they are likely root-bound.
Gaping holes from unevenly spaced branches or flat sides on a round shrub.
Offensive odor or mushy roots.
Sunscald on the leaves.
Shrubs that move back and forth in the container when you grab the base. For one reason or another, this plant has been recently repotted.
Mechanical injury to stems or the bark on branches. Open wounds invite insect pests and fungi into the shrub’s vascular system.
Roots growing out of the bottom of the container.
Weeds are growing in the container.

General Introduction of Shrubs

Shrubs play an essential role in home landscapes, and along with trees, they are considered the “bones” or foundation of a yard because of the structure they provide.

What is the Difference Between a Shrub, Bush, and Tree?

Simply speaking, trees are taller plants with a central stem, and shrubs are shorter and may have several stems that branch off just above the ground.

Getting more technical:

Trees are defined as woody perennials with one central upright stem larger than three inches in diameter. They are typically more than twelve feet tall and have a distinct head atop the stem or trunk.
Shrubs are also woody perennials that generally have a number of stems produced slightly above the soil line, with none exceeding three inches in diameter. They are usually less than twelve feet tall but can reach upwards of twenty feet or more, depending upon the species. Shrubs are also usually somewhat round in shape.

Now let’s talk about the difference between a shrub and a bush because they seem more complicated. According to the dictionary, a shrub is “a low usually several-stemmed woody plant,” and a bush is “a low densely branched shrub.” So it’s fair to assume the two terms are often used interchangeably for low-lying woody plants with numerous stems.

Understanding Deciduous Versus Evergreen Species

Now that the shrub/bush/tree question has been discussed, it’s time to talk about deciduous versus evergreen plants. Deciduous and evergreen shrubs differ in how the plant types adapt to different seasons.

How can You Use Shrubs in Your Landscape?

Shrubs are versatile in your landscape, lending themselves to many different uses.

Create a privacy screen.
Stand as a living fence at the edge of your property.
Act as a sound barrier, or at least dampen nearby noises.
Work as a windbreak.
Stabilize the soil on slopes or other areas prone to erosion.
Reduce cooling bills by shading the house during the summer.
Bring color to the landscape with either flowers or their foliage.
Soften hardscapes (pools, patios, foundation).
Attract wildlife like birds and butterflies.
Increase your home’s curb appeal.

Keeping a Succulent Healthy

You just brought home a new succulent, but now what? How can you be sure that your succulent has its needs met so it can be as strong and healthy as possible?

Like all plants, succulents have some basic needs that need to be met in order to survive in an indoor environment that is much different from the conditions that occur in nature. While we can’t replicate an arid environment in a windowsill, there are some steps that succulent owners can take to make sure their plants stay as healthy as possible.

Sunlight

Sunlight is super important for succulents, and they can never thrive if they’re kept in a dark location. In most cases, the more light the better. A sunny window that gets at least six hours of sun per day is best.

Water

Succulents need to have their soil dry out completely before being watered again. They are adapted to living in dry conditions, so they store a lot of water in their stems and leaves. This allows them to go much longer without water than a typical plant. Check the soil with your finger or a moisture meter, and water only when it feels dry. Less is more when it comes to watering succulents.

Container

Succulents can grow in a variety of containers, but the best option is a terracotta pot with plenty of drainage holes. Terracotta is porous and allows for ample circulation around the roots, so it helps prevent overwatering. Drainage holes are necessary to allow excess water to drain out of the pot. The pot should allow about an inch of soil around the root ball to give the roots room to grow.

Soil

The potting soil used for succulents should drain freely. A cactus and succulent mix is a great option as it is specifically designed for plants that live in dry conditions. Otherwise, you can amend an all-purpose potting soil with perlite, vermiculite, or sand to increase drainage.

Humidity

Succulents do not require as much humidity as many other houseplants. 40% to 60% humidity generally works well for succulent plants, which is typical for most homes. It is better to avoid keeping succulents in enclosed containers such as terrariums, as well as humid rooms like bathrooms and basements. Succulents do not require misting.

Cleanliness

When succulents get dusty, their health suffers. That’s because the layer of dust that settles on the surface of the plant actually prevents sunlight from reaching the plant itself. Without enough sunlight to turn into energy, succulents become healthy and eventually die. To avoid this, periodically wipe any dust from the leaves or give the plant a shower to keep it clean.

Where to Get Succulents

There are several ways to get succulents for your home, depending on your budget, time limitations, and what type of succulent you want. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages.

Purchasing a Plant at a Nursery or Retail Store

Buying a plant in person at a retail store is the typical way to obtain succulents. There are nurseries and garden centers that will often carry a wide variety of succulent plants, especially in the spring and summer. Depending on where you live, there might even be a store that specializes in cacti and succulents. Hardware stores usually have a selection of indoor and outdoor plants that almost always includes at least some of the more common succulents like aloes or jade plants. Even some grocery stores and home goods stores sometimes have a few succulents for sale.

Advantages

Buying a succulent in a store is convenient, and you can inspect the plant in person. You can make sure the plant is healthy and isn’t infested with insects before you bring it home, and you can choose which individual specimen you like best. And, you don’t have to wait; you can have the plant in your home that same day.

Disadvantages

If you are looking for a specific type of succulent, it may be difficult to find it in a retail store. Prices can be high in some stores.

Buying Succulents Online

There are so many succulents being sold online these days! You can buy from individuals, commercial growers, and even major retail stores. In most cases, shipping is fast and secure, and you can receive a healthy succulent without even leaving the house.

Advantages

It’s possible to find the exact type of succulent you want, which is helpful if you have your eye on something rare. You don’t have to go anywhere, which is great for people who don’t live near a garden center. It is easy to shop around and compare prices.

Disadvantages

You are not able to inspect the actual plant you’re going to purchase before sending your money, and it can sometimes be difficult to know if your seller is trustworthy. There’s a risk of the plant being damaged (especially in winter) or lost in transit. You have to wait for the plant to be shipped to you.

Propagating and Trading Succulents

Since it’s so easy to propagate succulents, this can be a great way to grow your succulent collection at little to no cost. Some cities have plant swap groups where neighbors can share their cuttings or plants that they’ve propagated, or you could just ask for a leaf from a friend’s plant and use that to grow your own.

Advantages

This is by far the cheapest way to get succulents. For many people, there’s also a satisfaction to seeing a full plant that grew from a single leaf. You may even make new friends by swapping plants.

Disadvantages

Propagating succulents takes time, so you need patience with this method. It may be difficult to find specific succulents that are on your wishlist.

What Is a Succulent?

If you’re new to houseplants, it may be confusing to hear the different names and categories available. And when it comes to succulents, it’s even more confusing because even the experts don’t fully agree on the definition of what a succulent plant is.

You might be surprised to hear that some types of orchids are even classified as succulents, while others aren’t. That’s because the traits that define succulent plants are specific to the species, but may not apply to all of the plants in the taxonomic family. Closely related plants can develop very different traits from one another, depending on where they grow.

What Makes a Succulent a Succulent?

Succulents are plants that have adapted to dry environments by developing tissues that can store water. Some varieties hold water in thick, plump leaves, while others store moisture in their stems and have minimal leaves.

Aside from their water-storage abilities, succulent plants have the ability to survive for extended periods without water without significant damage. When grown in cultivation, they have minimal need for water, fertilization, or maintenance.

Why Do People Grow Succulents as Houseplants?

Succulents are low-maintenance, which is one of the main reasons that they are popular as houseplants. People also love to grow succulents for their appearance. There are so many different varieties of succulents that you can find most any color, size, or shape that you want. Many of them are unlike what most of us would consider a normal plant. Their unique shapes and fascinating variety make them a very intriguing category of plant.

Is a Cactus a Succulent?

When you think of plants that hold lots of water, the first thing you probably think of is a cactus. And yes, all cacti are succulents. But not all succulents are cacti. The category of succulent is much broader and encompasses plants from many different families.

The Most Popular Succulents Grown as Houseplants

There are lots and lots of popular succulents, but here are the most popular ones. Note that this list refers to the scientific name of the genus, and within that there can be many species and hybrids available.

Aloe
Cacti
Crassula
Dracaena
Echeveria
Euphorbia
Gasteria
Haworthia
Kalanchoe
Sansevieria
Sedum
Senecio

Succession Planting for Longer Harvests

Succession planting — or successive planting — is a technique gardeners use to extend their harvest, giving them fresh produce for a longer period. There are different ways to accomplish this by either staggering plantings or planting vegetables with varying maturity dates.

Same Vegetable but Staggered Plantings

With this method, you plant more of the same vegetable every two to four weeks, so you continuously have a new crop ripening. Many vegetables set a heavy yield with their initial crop and then produce smaller and smaller yields as the summer progresses. Planting part of the crop at the beginning of the season and then adding to the plot or row every couple of weeks gives you high yields all summer instead of a feast or famine situation.

Peas and leafy greens are commonly planted this way.

Different Vegetables Planted in Succession

Another way to extend your harvest is by initially planting a crop with a short growing season, and once it is harvested, pull the vegetables out and plant a later season crop in its place.

Some of the best crops for this include arugula, pole beans, beets, carrots, endive, green onions, kale, lettuce, radishes, rutabaga, spinach, swiss chard, and turnips.

Same Vegetable but Varieties with Different Maturity Rates

The third way to achieve a more extended harvest is to take one vegetable you always plant in the garden and choose types that mature early, mid, and late-season. Seed packets will tell you the days to maturity to help you select ones that develop at different rates.

Good vegetables to plant this way include pole beans, cole crops (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower), carrots, corn, peas, and tomatoes.

Tips for Succession Planting

Make sure you purchase enough seeds to last you through the season, especially if you want to plant the same vegetable repeatedly.
In between plants, add some finished compost or leaf mold to the garden bed to keep the soil rich.
Pull out fading vegetables, and use the space to plant something else.
If you start your own seeds, start a new batch as soon as you transplant seedlings into the garden.

Caring for Seedling Starts to Ensure Their Success

With care and attention after germination, your seedlings will grow into vigorous, healthy juvenile plants ready to be transplanted outside into the garden when the weather is right.

How Much Light Do They Need?

When grown outdoors, vegetable plants require a spot where they get a minimum of six hours of sunlight daily. Indoors, they need a place that gets 12-16 hours of daylight. If your home doesn’t get enough natural light, use a grow light to supplement sunlight.

The best spots in your home for your seedlings are close to south- or west-facing windows. South-facing windows get the most sun; they typically have light streaming through them for most, if not all, of the day. West-facing windows stream direct sunlight for a good portion of the day and are often shaded from the intense sun in the late afternoon.

At What Temperature Should I Keep Them?

Watch out for extreme temperature fluctuations indoors — these can still plant growth and affect yields. Avoid putting your seedlings where they can feel cold drafts from an exterior door.

How Often Do They Need Watering?

The goal is to keep the potting soil moist without it being saturated. If it is too wet, the water pushes air out of the potting mix, starving the roots of oxygen.

Water your containers from the bottom, setting them in a shallow pan of water. The potting soil will wick up moisture through the drainage holes, stopping once it has enough. Watering this way helps prevent overwatering and won’t dislodge the seeds or seedlings like overhead watering.

Do I Need to Fertilize Seedlings?

There isn’t a need to fertilize newly germinated seedlings. The endosperm within the seed has enough “food” to get the plant started until it grows roots capable of taking in nutrients from the potting soil.

When your seedlings develop the second (or third) set of true leaves, you need to start fertilizing them. They have used up all of the reserves stored within the seed and need nutrients for growth.

Now it’s time to feed your seedlings a half dose of all-purpose fertilizer every two weeks.