8 Practical Strategies to Avoid Lawn Problems
Keeping a lush, green yard is a dream of many homeowners, but you can run into a lot of issues from brown patches to weeds to compacted soil. If you want to solve these common lawn problems, read on for more information.
With tougher, more resilient grass on the market and a wealth of lawn care information on the internet, it should be easier than ever to keep a well-maintained lawn. Yet many people still struggle with lawn problems. So how do you get rid of them?
Since you’re dealing with nature, you can’t ever control all factors, but there are some common problems every lawn owner has faced and some standard strategies to solve them.
Brown Patches
Problem: When the rest of your grass looks fine and there are only a few problem areas then you’re probably dealing with a layer of dead or decaying vegetation. This buildup of organic material can change the pH balance of your lawn leading to patchy brown and spongy areas. Interestingly, brown patches are often seen in lawns that receive a lot of maintenance and were previously treated with chemicals.
Solution: The first step is to remove the thatch and dead grass from the area and then adding in some nutrients to balance the pH. Another more natural solution includes spraying the area with a diluted solution of molasses to encourage natural organisms to break down the thatch layer.
Dandelions
Problem: One or two dandelions might be cute in your lawn, but if you actually want to grow grass and not a field of dandelions, you’ll have to get rid of them. These hardy perennials will come back every year and can easily spread their seed all over your yard. If your lawn isn’t healthy, it can easily outcompete grass.
Solution: The best way to get rid of dandelions is to dig the whole plant up, roots and all. Get to them before they go to seed to prevent them from spreading. Of course, you can’t completely control the spread of dandelions. Dandelion seeds can fly up to 62 mile! It might be a never ending battle, but by removing them immediately, you can at least keep your lawn nice and clean.
Crabgrass or Grassy Weeds
Problem: Crabgrass is a hardy annual weed and thrives in compacted lawns with high nitrogen content. You might notice that whenever you give your grass some fertilizer, crabgrass tends to pop up. This problematic grass, along with other grassy weeds, are also hard to manage because often the herbicides that kill them will also kill your lawn!
Solution: Spread some corn gluten meal over your lawn. Apply this in the spring about two weeks before the last frost and you’ll notice a significant drop in almost all weeds. You’ll have to do this consistently over three years though to really reap the benefits. If you don’t want to use corn meal you can also apply a layer of mulch which can block out the sun and keep the seeds from germinating.
If you already have crabgrass your best bet is to catch it early when they are young and small. Remove the whole plants including the roots. Do not remove already mature plants. Since crabgrass is annual, it will die off after the first hard frost. Just make sure to seed any thin patches to prevent crabgrass from coming back.
Nutsedge
The problem: Nutsedge is a hardy weed that will quickly outcompete your grass. It will constantly steal away sunlight and nutrients from the surrounding vegetation leading to a lawn full of nutsedge. Unfortunately, this weed is also a perennial so, if left unchecked, will come back every year. To identify nutsedge from grass, roll it between your fingers. If it feels ‘sharp’ it’s a nutsedge as these plants have triangle-shaped stems as opposed to the round stems of grass.
The Solution: If you’ve tried to pull up nutsedges every spring, you might feel like it’s a never-ending battle as they pop up in the same place every year. That’s because the underground tubers will simply regrow even if you pull them up. What’s worse, these tubers can be dormant for up to three years so it can take years to fully eradicate nutsedge from your lawn. Contact your local lawn care specialist to apply selective herbicide that deals specifically with sedges.
Compacted Soil
The Problem: Many weeds, like crabgrass, thrive in compacted soil and clay. While you can’t really control the type of soil in your lawn, you can at least keep it aerated. In addition to being a favorite of weeds, compacted soil also makes it harder for water and fertilizer to reach your lawn’s roots. This ultimately weakens them while simultaneously encouraging weeds to grow.
The Solution: Healthy soil should be about 50 percent solid, 25 percent water, and 25 percent air. It might not be cheap, but the best thing you can do is rent an aerifier every other year and aerate your soil. Yes, it might not look great having a bunch of tiny holes in your lawn, but your grass will thank you. While it might not look great in the beginning, it will definitely keep your lawn healthy in the long run.
Dry and Dying Grass
The Problem: There are a lot of causes for dry and dying grass so it’s up to you to pay attention to what’s happening. Was there a recent heat wave in your area? Are there other issues with your lawn? You should check to make sure your grass is actually dead and not just dormant by doing a pull test. Simply go to the patch of brown grass and give it a pull. If the grass comes out with no resistance, it is dead.
The Solution: Depending on the problem, the solution will differ. You should consult with a professional to figure out the cause of your dead and dying grass. Maybe your grass is not suited to your climate or maybe you’re dealing with pests and/or disease. Either way, once you have it under control, you will have to reseed the areas as dead grass will not grow back.
White Grubs or Other Pests
The Problem: Grubs deplete the soil of nutrients and can often cause your lawn to yellow and eventually die if left unchecked. Animals, such as raccoons and skunks, that feed on grubs can also tear up your lawn looking for a tasty meal. If you do have grubs, you should be able to find them pretty quickly. Just pull up a patch of dead grass and look for white, c-shaped worms. They’re very easy to spot against the dark soil.
The Solution: Interestingly, insecticides do very little to control grubs. In most cases, they are completely unnecessary. Instead, you can use two biological options:
- Milky spore disease - this bacteria controls chewing insects and is long-lasting, though it also takes a few years to reach peak efficiency
- Nematodes - combine these with water and apply to the soil in early spring or fall. Nematodes are microscopic worms that occur naturally in the soil. The ‘good’ nematodes attach themselves to grub larvae and kill them. It does take time to work, but it’s very efficient.
It’s essential, though, to prune them correctly. If pruned improperly, you could end up with a plant that stops flowering completely.
Moles or Other Animals Digging up Soil
The Problem: Besides destroying the aesthetic of your lawn, the tunnels and mounds made by moles and other animals can make your lawn one big booby trap. Since the mounds and tunnels often collapse when you step on them, it can often cause injuries to people who are not paying attention.
The Solution: There’s unfortunately no good way to keep moles from digging through your lawn permanently. You can surround your yard with chicken wire buried at least one foot deep, but moles can dig deeper than that and can also travel short distances above ground. You can also trap them, but that doesn’t prevent other moles from moving in. Perhaps the most effective way to keep them away is to place ultrasonic devices near runs. Even then, moles can always dig new tunnels to avoid them.
Conclusion
Taking good care of your lawn requires a bit of research and some practice. However, even the best laid plans can be upended because you are dealing with nature. Still, it’s not completely impossible and with the help of the above strategies and maybe a trip to your local lawn care specialist, you can have the lawn you always wanted.
